"LI  B  R.AR.Y 

OF  THL 

UNIVERSITY 
OF    ILLINOIS 


91708 

D19g 


X 


illlNOIS  HISTORICAL  SURVEY 


THE 


GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD, 


OR   THE 


*    GREAT    WEST; 

ITS  HISTORY,  ITS  WEALTH,  ITS  NATURAL  ADVANTAGES, 
AND    ITS    FUTURE. 


ALSO,    COMPRISING 


A  COMPLETE  GUIDE  TO  EMIGRANTS, 

WITH 
A  FULL  DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  DIFFERENT  ROUTES  WESTWARD. 

BY    AN    OLD    SETTLER. 

•      :n^vx,a  ,  c  AV 

WITH  STATISTICS  AND  FACTS, 

FROM  HON.  THOMAS  H.  BENTON,  HON.  SAM  HOUSTON,  COL.  JOHN  C. 
FREMONT,  AND  OTHER  "  OLD  SETTLERS." 


BOSTON: 
WENTWORTH     AND     COMPANY, 

86  WASHINGTON  STREET. 
1856. 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1856,  by 

WENTWORTH  AND  COMPANY, 
In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  District  of  Massachusetts. 


STEREOTYPED  AT  THE 
BOSTON    STJBREOTYPB    FOUNDRY. 


I  beheld  the  westward  marches 
Of  the  unknown  crowded  nations. 
All  the  land  was  full  of  people, 
Restless,  struggling,  toiling,  striving, 
Speaking  many  tongues,  yet  feeling 
But  one  heart-beat  in  their  bosoms. 
In  the  woodlands  rang  their  axes, 
Smoked  their  towns  in  all  the  valleys  ; 
Over  all  the  lakes  and  rivers 
Rushed  their  great  canoes  of  thunder. 

LONGFELLOW'S  SONG  OF  HIAWATHA. 


j 


CONTENTS. 


INTRODUCTION, 13 

HISTORICAL  ACCOUNT  OF  THE  WEST, 17 

OHIO, 57 

Boundaries  and  Extent,  . . 58  Internal  ImproYements, 62 

Rivers, : 58  Government, 63 

Climate, 59  Education, 64 

Surface,  Soil,  &c., 60  Religion,  &c., 65 

Agriculture, 61  Population, . : 65 

CINCINNATI, 66 

CLEVELAND, 75 

COLUMBUS, 77 

INDIANA, 83 

Boundaries  and  Extent, 84  Internal  Improvements, 87 

Rivers, 84  Government, 88 

Climate, 85  Education, 88 

Surface  and  Soil, 85  Religious  Statistics, 89 

Agriculture, 86  Population, 90 

INDIANAPOLIS,  90 

NEW  ALBANY, 92 

ILLINOIS, 95 

Boundaries  and  Extent, 96  Internal  Improvements, 100 

Rivers, 97  Government,   101 

Climate, 97  Education, 102 

Surface  and  Soil, 98  Religion, 103 

Agriculture, 99  Population, 103 

NAUVOO 103 

CHICAGO, 105 

MICHIGAN ....112 

Boundaries  and  Extent, 112  Internal  Improvements, 119 

Rivers  and  Lakes, 113  Government, 120 

Climate, 116  Education, 120 

Surface  and  Soil, 117  Religious  Statistics, 121 

Agriculture, 118  Population, 121 

DETROIT, 122 

LANSING, 125 

1* 


CONTENTS. 


WISCONSIN 127 


Boundaries  and  Extent, 127 

Rivers, 128 

Climate, 128 

Surface  and  Soil, 129 

Agriculture, 132 


Railroads  in  Wisconsin,  in  1856, 134 

Government, 135 

Education, 135 

Religious  Statistics, ,. 136 

Population, 136 


Internal  Improvements, 133 

MADISON, 136 

MILWAUKIE, 138 

IOWA,.  ..142 


Boundaries  and  Extent, 142 

Rivers, 143 

Climate, 144 

Surface  and  Soil, 145 


Internal  Improvements, 147 

Education, 153 

Religious  Statistics, 154 

Population, 154 


Agriculture, 146 

DAVENPORT, 155 

DUBUQUE, 157 

MISSOURI, 161 


Boundaries  and  Extent, 161 

Rivers, 162 


Climate,  ............................  163 

Surface,  Soil,  &c  .....................  164 

Agriculture,  ........................  164 

Internal  Improvements,  ......  .  ......  165 


Railroads  in  Missouri  in  1856, 167 

Government 168 


Education, 168 

Religion, 169 

Population, 169 

The  Mines  of  Missouri, 169 


ST.  Louis,  ................................  ..................  171 

KANSAS,  .........................  ...177 


Position  and  Boundaries,  ............  178 

Rivers,...*  .........................  178 

Climate,  ............................  189 

Surface  and  Soil,  ....................  190 

Agriculture,  ........................  193 


Prices  Current, 193 

Missouri  Compromise, 194 

Organization, 196 

Squatter  Laws, 196 

Population, 198 


LEAVENWORTH  CITY,  ................  ;  ........................  198 

LAWRENCE,  .................................................  199 

FORT  LEAVEJTWORTH,  .................................  .  ......  200 

TOPECA,  ..............................  .  .....................  201 

FORT  RILEY,  ...............................................  201 

MANHATTAN,  ................................................  201 

FRANKLIN  ............................................  '  .....  202 

GRASSHOPPER  FALLS,  ........................................  202 

OSAWATOMIE,  ...............................................  202 

KICKAPOO,  ..................................................  203 

ATCHISON,  ..................................................  203 

DONAPHIN,  ..................................................  203 

INFORMATION  TO  KANSAS  EMIGRANTS,  .............  203 

CONSTITUTION  OF  AMERICAN  SETTLEMENT  CO.,...  ,221 
PROPOSALS  AND  PLANS,  .....................................  223 

OCTAGON  SETTLEMENT  COMPANY,  ....................  225 

VEGETARIAN  SETTLEMENT  COMPANY,  .............  226 


CONTENTS. 


NEBRASKA, 227 

Settlements, • 235 

MINNESOTA, 237 

Boundaries  and  Extent, 237  Internal  Improvements, 241 

Rivers, 238  Education, 241 

Climate, 239  Religious  Statistics, 242 

Surface  and  Soil, 239  Population, 242 

Agriculture,  . '. 240 

ST.  PAUL, 243 

ST.  ANTHONY, 245 

TEXAS, 248 

Boundaries  and  Extent, 249      Government, 254 

Rivers, 250      Education, 255 

Climate, 250      Religion, 256 

Surface  and  Soil, 251      Population, 257 

Agriculture, 253  Sam  Houston  on  the  Future  of  Texas,  257 

Internal  Improvements, 254 

NEW  MEXICO, 266 

Surface  and  Soil, 267  |  Population, 268 

UTAH 269 

OREGON, .278 

Agriculture, 287 

WASHINGTON  TERRITORY 288 

CALIFORNIA .....298 

Boundaries  and  Extent, 299  ]  Education, 307 

Rivers, 300  Population, 308 

Climate, 301  The  Mines, 310 

Surface  and  Soil, 304  Col.  Fremont's  Explorations, 314 

Agriculture, 306  The  Yankees  in  California, 321 

Government, 306  Col.  Fremont  and  his  Mariposa  Grant,  .329 

SAN  FRANCISCO, 330 

RIVERS 335 

Ohio  River, 335   I  Distances, 353 

Distances, 340      Missouri  River, 353 

Mississippi  River, 341  '  Distances, 357 

HON.  THOMAS  H.  BENTON'S   SPEECH    ON  THE   PACIFIC  RAILROAD 
BILL, 358 

ROUTES  TO  THE  WEST, 393 

GREAT  WESTERN  RAILROAD  ROUTE 4. 393 

VIA  FITCHBURG,  CHESHIRE,  RUTLAND  AND  BURLINGTON, 394 

FROM  NEW  YORK  TO  ST.  Louis, 394 

FROM  THE  PRINCIPAL  PLACES  IN  NORTHERN  NEW  ENGLAND, 395 

PASSENGER  AND  EXPRESS  ROUTE  TO  CALIFORNIA, 396 


THE 


GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD; 


OR  THE 


GREAT    WEST. 


THE  Land  of  Promise,  and  the  Canaan  of  our  time, 
is  the  region  which,  commencing  on  the  slope  of  the 
Alleghanies,  broadens  grandly  over  the  vast  prairies 
and  mighty  rivers,  over  queenly  lakes  and  lofty  moun- 
tains, until  the  ebb  and  flow  of  the  Pacific  tide  kisses 
the  golden  shores  of  the  El  Dorado. 

With  a  soil  more  fertile  than  human  agriculture  has 
yet  tilled ;  with  a  climate  balmy  and  healthful,  such  as 
no  other  land  in  other  zones  can  claim ;  with  facilities 
for  internal  communication  which  outrival  the  world  in 
extent  and  grandeur,  —  it  does  indeed  present  to  the 
nations  a  land  where  the  wildest  dreamer  on  the  future 
of  our  race  may  one  day  see  actualized  a  destiny  far 
outreaching  in  splendor  his  most  gorgeous  visions. 

To  the  New  England  man,  who  has  been  nurtured 
among  the  bleak  hills  and  the  rough,  rocky  valleys  of 
his  native  section,  where  land  is  scant  and  food  scan- 


14       THE  GAEDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OB 

tier,  where  the  farmer  laboriously  cultivates  his  little 
patch  of  ground,  and  gets  therefrom  but  a  small  return 
for  his  toilsome  labors,  let  him  turn  his  gaze  to  the 
broad  fields  of  the  West,  and  there  behold  the  ne  plus 
ultra  of  farming  —  an  agriculture  worthy  of  the  name. 
There  will  he  see  the  field  where  his  busy  brain  and 
thinking  hand  can  find  space  and  material  to  work, 
and  an  opportunity  to  rear  from  its  virgin  civilization 
institutions  which  shall  bless  generations  yet  to  be. 

0,  the  soul  kindles  at  the  thought  of  what  a  magnifi- 
cent empire  the  West  is  but  the  germ,  which,  blessed 
with  liberty  and  guaranteeing  equal  rights  to  all,  shall 
go  on  conquering  and  to  conquer,  until  the  whole  earth 
shall  resound  with  its  fame  and  glory ! 

The  hardy  yeomanry  of  New  England  are  peopling 
by  thousands  on  thousands  this  land  of  "  milk  and 
honey,"  carrying  with  them  the  indomitable  Anglo- 
Saxon  energy,  and  the  stern  virtues  of  their  fathers, 
and  more  than  all,  minds  which  the  common  school 
has  trained  into  strong  intellectual  growth,  thus  fitting 
them  to  be  the  master  spirits  of  the  new  era. 

The  old  world,  cursed  with  despotism,  is  pouring 
out  its  oppressed  millions  into  the  lap  of  the  West,  and 
they  will  furnish  the  hardy  sinews  which,  directed  by 
New  England  minds,  shall  lay  the  untold  bounties  of 
nature  under  contribution,  and  swell  the  tide  of 
wealth. 

When  a  Pacific  railway  shall  connect  the  farthest 
east  and  the  farthest  west  within  a  few  days'  travel,  and 
the  now  almost  limitless  deserts  shall  "  blossom  as  the 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  15 

rose,"  inhabited  by  teeming  millions  pursuing  their 
avocations  peacefully,  and  each  contributing  his  part  to 
the  good  of  all,  it  will  be  a  consummation  which  the 
mind  is  lost  in  contemplating,  and  of  which  the  imagi- 
nation is  powerless  to  form  an  adequate  conception. 

The  rapid  strides  which  the  West  has  made  in  civil- 
ization and  in  wealth  are*  marvellous.  Every,  body  is 
acquainted  with  them,  from  the  child  who  goes  to 
school  to  the  patriarch  with"  the  snows  of  eighty  win- 
ters on  his  brow,  —  how  Cincinnati,  Chicago,  and  St. 
Louis,  the  spots  on  which  they  stand,  but  a  few  years 
since  unbroken  forests,  have  sprung  into  existence  and 
grown  with  such  rapidity  and  power  that  they  now 
outrival  in  wealth  and  population  the  older  cities  of 
the  East,  with  two  centuries  of  growth  on  their  record ; 
how  new  State's,  like  Ohio,  are  wresting  the  rod  of 
empire  from  their  eastern  sisters,  and  are  overshadow- 
ing the  rest  with  their  power  and  influence. 

The  subjects  which  we  shall  treat  on  in  this  work 
are  of  lasting  and  deep  interest  to  every  man,  woman, 
and  child  on  the  continent.  They  need  no  apology. 
No  one  who  has  a  spark  of  patriotism  animating  his 
bosom  will  turn  away  from  the  glowing  annals  of  the 
West. 

With  resources  such  as  Nature  has  vouchsafed  to  no 
other  clime,  blessed  with  a  race  of  men  who  are  no 
idlers  in  their  vineyard,  but  chaining  all  the  elements 
into  their  service  until  there  seems  no  limit  to  their 
acquisitions,  there  cannot  fail  to  be  set  up  along  its 
mighty  rivers  and  over  its  broad  prairies  a  pavilion  of 


16        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

human  progress  which  shall  bless  mankind.  This 
structure  is  yet  in  process  of  erection  :  the  materials  of 
construction,  workmen  ascending  and  descending,  mar 
its  present  appearance  ;  but  when  the  work  is  finished 
the  scaffolding  will  fall,  and  the  noble  edifice  will  start 
in  -its  wondrous  beauty  before  an  astonished  world  ! 

We  will  not  enlarge  up&n  this  topic  here.  Our 
province  lies  with  things  as  they  now  exist,  and  the 
reader  will  pardon  us  for  indulging  in  these  remarks 
upon  the  future  of  THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD. 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  17 


HISTORICAL    ACCOUNT 


WEST. 


WITH  the  intention  of  giving  a  clear  and  succinct 
view  of  the  "  Garden  of  the  World,"  we  shall  com- 
mence with  a  synopsis  of  its  history,  carefully  compiled 
for  the  "  Great  West." 

Twenty  years  after  the  great  event  occurred  which 
has  immortalized  the  name  of  Christopher  Columbus, 
Florida  was  discovered  by  Juan  Ponce  de  Leon,  ex- 
governor  of  Porto  Rico.  Sailing  from  that  island  in 
March,  1512,  he  discovered  an  unknown  country, 
which  he  named  Florida,  from  the  abundance  of  its 
flowers,  the  trees  being  covered  with  blossoms,  and  its 
first  being  seen  on  Easter  Sunday,  a  day  called  by  the 
Spaniards  Pascua  Florida ;  the  name  imports  the  coun- 
try of  flowers.  Other  explorers  soon  visited  the  same 
coast.  In  May,  1539,  Ferdinand  de  Soto,  the  gov- 
ernor of  Cuba,  landed  at  Tampa  Bay  with  six  hundred 
followers.  He  marched  into  the  interior,  and  on  the 
1st  of  May,  1641,  discovered  the  Mississippi ;  being  the 
first  European  who  had  ever  beheld  that  mighty  river. 
2* 


18         THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

Spain  for  many  years  claimed  the  whole  of  the  coun- 
try bounded  by  the  Atlantic  to  the  Gulf  of  St.  Law- 
rence on  the  north,  all  of  which  bore  the  name  of 
Florida.  About  twenty  years  after  the  discovery  of 
the  Mississippi,  some  Catholic  missionaries  attempted 
to  form  settlements  at  St.  Augustine  and  its  vicinity ; 
and  a  few  years  later  a  colony  of  French  Calvinists 
had  been  established  on  the  St.  Mary's,  near  the  coast. 
In  1565  this  settlement  was  annihilated  by  an  expe- 
dition from  Spain,  under  Pedro  Melendez  de  Aviles, 
and  about  nine  hundred  French,  men,  women,  and 
children,  cruelly  massacred.  The  bodies  of  many  of 
the  slain  were  hung  from  trees,  with  the  inscription, 
"  Not  as  Frenchmen,  but  as  heretics"  Having  accom- 
plished his  bloody  errand,  Melendez  founded  St.  Au- 
gustine, the  oldest  town  by  half  a  century  of  any  now 
in  the  Union.  Four  years  after,  Dominic  de  Gourges, 
burning  to  avenge  his  countrymen,  fitted  put  an  expe- 
dition at  his  own  expense,  and  surprised  the  Spanish 
colonists  on  the  St.  Mary's,  destroying  the  ports,  burn- 
ing the  houses,  and  ravaging  the  settlements  with  fire 
and  sword,  finishing  the  work  by  also  suspending  some 
of  the  corpses  of  his  enemies  from  trees,  with  the  in- 
scription, "  Not  as  Spaniards,  but  as  murderers"  Un- 
able to  hold  possession  of  the  country,  De  Gourges  re- 
tired to  his  fleet.  Florida,  excepting  for  a  few  years, 
remained' under  the  Spanish  crown,  suffering  much  in 
its  early  history  from  the  vicissitudes  of  war  and  pi- 
ratical incursions,  until  1819,  when,  vastly  diminished 
from  its  original  boundaries,  it  was  ceded  to  the  United 
States,  and  in  1845  became  a  state. 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  19 

In  1535  James  Cartier,  a  distinguished  French 
mariner,  sailed  with  an  exploring  expedition  up  the 
St.  Lawrence,  and  taking  possession  of  the  country  in 
the  name  of  his  king,  called  it  "  New  France."  In 
1608  the  energetic  Champlain  created  a  nucleus  for 
the  settlement  of  Canada  by  founding  Quebec.  This 
was  the  same  year  with  the  settlement  of  Jamestown, 
Virginia,  and  twelve  years  previous  to  that  on  which 
the  Puritans  first  stepped  upon  the  rocks  of  Plymouth. 

To  strengthen  the  establishment  of  French  domin- 
ion, the  genius  of  Champlain  saw  that  it  was  essential 
to  establish  missions  among  the  Indians.  Up  to  this 
period  "  the  far  west  "  had  been  untrod  by  the  foot  of 
the  white  man.  In  1616  a  French  Franciscan,  named 
Le  Caron,  passed  through  the  Iroquois  and  Wyandot 
nations  to  streams  running  into  Lake  Huron ;  and  in 
1634,  two  Jesuits  founded  the  first  mission  in  that 
region.  But  just  a  century  elapsed  from  the  discovery 
of  the  Mississippi  ere  the  first  Canadian  envoys  met 
the  savage  nations  of  the  north-west  at  the  Falls  of  St. 
Mary's,  below  the  outlet  of  Lake  Superior.  It  was  not 
until  1659  that  any  of  the  adventurous  fur  traders 
wintered  on  the  shores  of  this  vast  lake,  nor  until  1660 
that  Rene  Mesnard  founded  the  first  missionary  station 
upon  its  rocky  and  inhospitable  coast.  Perishing  soon 
after  in  the  forest,  it  was  left  to  Father  Claude  Allouez, 
five  years  subsequent,  to  build  the  first  permanent 
habitation  of  white  men  among  the  north-western  In- 
dians. In  1668  the  mission  was  founded  at  the  Falls 
of  St.  Marys,  by  Dablon  and  Marquette ;  in  1670 


20         THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

Nicholas  Perrot,  agent  for  the  intendant  of  Canada, 
explored  Lake  Michigan  to  near  its  southern  termina- 
tion. Formal  possession  was  taken  of  the  north-west 
by  the  French  in  1671,  and  Marquette  established  a 
missionary  station  at  Point  St.  Ignace,  on  the  main 
land  north  of  Mackinac,  which  was  the  first  settlement 
in  Michigan. 

Until  late  in  this  century,  owing  to  the  enmity  of 
the  Indians  bordering  the  Lakes  Ontario  and  Erie,  the 
adventurous  missionaries,  on  their  route  west,  on  pain 
of  death,  were  compelled  to  pass  far  to  the  north, 
through  "  a  region  horrible  with  forests,"  by  the  Otta- 
wa and  French  Rivers  of  Canada. 

As  yet  no  Frenchman  had  advanced  beyond  Fox 
River,  of  Winnebago  Lake,  in  "Wisconsin  ;  but  in  May, 
1673,  the  missionary  Marquette,  with  a  few  compan- 
ions, left  Mackinac  in  canoes,  passed  up  Green  Bay, 
entered  Fox  River,  crossed  the  country  to  the  Wiscon- 
sin, and,  following  its  current,  passed  into  and  discovered 
the  Mississippi;  down  which  they  sailed  several  hun- 
dred miles,  and  returned  in  the  autumn.  The  discov- 
ery of  this  great  river  gave  great  joy  in  New  France,  it 
being  "  a  pet  idea  "  of  that  age  that  some  of  its  west- 
ern tributaries  would  afford  a  direct  route  to  the  South 
Sea,  and  thence  to  China.  Monsieur  La  Salle,  a  man 
of  indefatigable  enterprise,  having  been  several  years 
engaged  in  the  preparation,  in  1682  explored  the  Mis- 
sissippi to  the  sea,  and  took  formal  possession  of  the 
country  in  the  name  of  the  King  of  France,  in  honor 
of  whom  he  called  it  Louisiana.  In  1685  he  also  took 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  21 

formal  possession  of  Texas,  and  founded  a  colony  on 
the  Colorado ;  but  La  Salle  was  assassinated,  and  the 
colony  dispersed. 

The  descriptions  of  the  beauty  and  magnificence  of 
the  Yalley  of  the  Mississippi,  given  by  these  explorers, 
led  many  adventurers  from  the  cold  climate  of  Canada 
to  follow  the  same  route,  and  commence  settlements. 
About  the  year  1680  Kaskaskia  and  Cahokia,.  the 
oldest  towns  in  the  Mississippi  Yalley,  were  founded. 
Kaskaskia  became  the  capital  of  the  Illinois  country, 
and  in  1721  a  Jesuit  college  and  monastery  were 
founded  there. 

A  peace  with  the  Iroquois,  Hurons,  and  Ottawas,  in 
1700,  gave  the  French  facilities  for  settling  the  western 
part  of  Canada.  In  June,  1701,  De  la  Motte  Cadillac, 
with  a  Jesuit  missionary  and  a  hundred  men,  laid  the 
foundation  of  Detroit.  All  of  the  extensive  region 
south  of  the  lakes  was  now  claimed  by  the  French, 
under  the  name  of  Canada,  or  New  France.  This  ex- 
cited the  jealousy  of  the  English,  and  the  New  York 
legislature  passed  a  law  for  hanging  every  Popish 
priest  that  should  come  voluntarily  into  the  province. 
The  French,  chiefly  through  tjie  mild  and  conciliating 
course  of  their  missionaries,  had  gained  so  much  in- 
fluence over  the  western  Indians  that,  when  a  war 
broke  out  with  England  in  1711,  the  most  powerful  of 
the  tribes  became  their  allies;  and  the  latter  unsuc- 
cessfully attempted  to  restrict  their  claims  to  the  coun- 
try south  of  the  lakes.  The  Fox  nation,  allies  of  the 
English,  in  1713  made  an  attack  upon  Detroit,  but 


22         THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OB 

were  defeated  by  the  French  and  their  Indian  allies. 
The  treaty  of  Utrecht,  this  year,  ended  the  war. 

By  the  year  1720,  a  profitable  trade  had  arisen  in 
furs  and  agricultural  products  between  the  French  of 
Louisiana  and  those  of  Illinois,  and  settlements  had 
been  made  on  the  Mississippi,  below  the  junction  of 
the  Illinois.  To  confine  the  English  to  the  Atlantic 
coast,  the  French  adopted  the  plan  of  forming  a  line 
of  military  posts,  to  extend  from  the  great  northern 
lakes  to  the  Mexican  Gulf;  and,  as  one  of  the  links 
of  the  chain,  Fort  Chartres  was  built  on  the  Missis- 
sippi, near  Kaskaskia ;  and  in  its  vicinity  soon  flour- 
ished the  villages  of  Cahokia  and  Prairie  du  Rocher. 

The  Ohio  at  this  time  was  but  little  known  to  the 
French,  and  on  their  early  maps  was  but  an  insignifi- 
cant stream.  Early  in  this  century  their  missionaries 
had  penetrated  to  the  sources  of  the  Alleghany.  In 
1721,  Joncaire,  a  French  agent  and  trader,  established 
himself  among  the  Senecas  at  Lewistown,  and  Fort 
Niagara  was  erected,  near  the  falls,  five  years  subse- 
quent. In  1735,  according  to  some  authorities,  Post 
St.  Vincent  was  erected  on  the  Wabash.  Almost 
coeval  with  this  was  the ,  military  post  of  Presque  Isle, 
on  the  site  of  Erie,  Penn.,  and  from  thence  a  cordon 
of  posts  extended  on  the  Alleghany  to  Pittsburg,  and 
from  thence  down  the  Ohio  to  the  Wabash.* 

*  A  map  published  at  London,  in  1755,  gives  the  following  list  of 
French  posts,  as  then  existing  in  the  west.  Two  on  French  Creek,  in 
the  vicinity  of  Erie,  Penn.  ;  Duquesne,  on  the  site  of  Pittsburg ; 
Miamis,  on  the  Maumee,  near  the  site  of  Toledo  ;  Sandusky,  on  San- 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  23 

In  1749  the  French  regularly  explored  the  Ohio, 
and  formed  alliances  with  the  Indians  in  Western  New 
York,  Pennsylvania,  and  Virginia.  The  English,  who 
Claimed  the  whole  west  to  the  Pacific,  but  whose  settle- 
ments were  confined  to  the  comparatively  narrow  strip 
east  of  the  mountains,  were  jealous  of  the  rapidly  in- 
creasing power  of  the  French  in  the  west.  Not  con- 
tent with  exciting  the  savages  to  hostilities  against 
them,  they  stimulated  private  enterprise  by  granting 
six  hundred  thousand  acres  of  choice  land  on  the 
Ohio  to  the  "  Ohio  Company." 

By  the  year  1751  there  were  in  the  Illinois  country 
the  settlements  of  Cahokia,  five  miles  below  the  site  of 
St.  Louis  ;  St.  Philip's,  forty-five  miles  farther  down  the 
river ;  St.  Genevieve,  a  little  lower  still ;  and  on  the 
east  side  of  the  Mississippi,  Fort  Chartres,  Kaskaskia, 
and  Prairie  du  Rocher.  The  largest  of  these  was  Kas- 
kaskia, which  at  one  time  contained  nearly  three  thou- 
sand souls. 

In  1748  the  Ohio  Company,  composed  mainly  of 
wealthy  Virginians,  despatched  Christopher  Gist  to 
explore  the  country,  gain  the  good  will  of  the  Indians, 
and  ascertain  the  plans  of  the  French.  Crossing  over 

dusky  Bay ;  St.  Joseph's,  on  St.  Joseph's  River,  Michigan ;  Ponchar- 
train,  site  of  Detroit;  Massillimacinac ;  one  on  Fox  River,  Green 
Bay ;  Crevecceur,  on  the  Illinois  ;  Rockfort,  or  Fort  St.  Louis,  on  the 
Illinois ;  Vincennes ;  Cahokia ;  Kaskaskia ;  and  one  at  each  of  the 
mouths  of  the  Wabash,  Ohio,  and  Missouri.  Other  posts  not  named 
were  built  about  that  time.  On  the  Ohio,  just  below  Portsmouth, 
are  ruins,  supposed  to  be  those  of  a  French  fort,  as  they  had  a  post 
there  during  Braddock's  war. 


24 


land  to  the  Ohio,  he  proceeded  down  it  to  the  Great 
Miami,  up  which  he  passed  to  the  towns  of  the  Mi- 
amies,  about  fifty  miles  north  of  the  site  of  Dayton. 
The  next  year  the  company  established  a  trading  post 
in  that  vicinity,  on  Loramies  Creek,  the  first  point  of 
English  settlement  in  the  western  country;  it  was 
soon  after  broken  up  by  the  French. 

In  the  year  1753,  Dinwiddie,  governor  of  Virginia, 
sent  George  Washington,  then  twenty-one  years  of  age, 
as  commissioner,  to  remonstrate  with  the  French  com- 
mandant, who  was  at  Fort  le  Boeuf,  near  the  site  of 
Erie,  Penn.,  against  encroachments  of  the  French. 
The  English  claimed  the  country  by  virtue  of  her  first 
royal  charters,  the  French  by  the  stronger  title  of 
discovery  and  possession.  The  result  of  the  mission 
proving  unsatisfactory,  the  English,  although  it  was  a 
time  of  peace,  raised  a  force  to  expel  the  invaders  from 
the  Ohio  and  its  tributaries.  A  detachment  under 
Lieutenant  Ward  erected  a  fort  on  the  site  of  Pitts- 
burg  ;  but  it  was  surrendered  shortly  after,  in  April, 
1754,  to  a  superior  force  of  French  and  Indians  under 
Contrecoeur,  and  its  garrison  peaceably  permitted  to 
retire  to  the  frontier  post  of  Cumberland.  Contre- 
coeur then  erected  a  strong  fortification  at  "  the  fork," 
under  the  name  of  Fort  Duquesne. 

Measures  were  now  taken  by  both  nations  for  the 
struggle  that  was  to  ensue.  On  the  28th  of  May,  a 
strong  detachment  of  Virginia  troops,  under  Washing- 
ton, surprised  a  small  body  of  French  from  Fort  Du- 
quesne, killed  its  commander,  M.  Jumonville,  and  ten 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  25 

men,  and  took  nearly  all  the  rest  prisoners.  He  then 
fell  back  and  erected  Fort  Necessity,  near  the  site  of 
Uniontown.  In  July  he  was  attacked  by  a  large  body 
of  French  and  Indians,  commanded  by  M.  Villiers,  and, 
after  a  gallant  resistance,  compelled  to  capitulate,  with 
permission  'to  retire  unmolested,  and  under  the  ex- 
press stipulation  that  farther  settlements  or  forts  should 
not  be  founded  by  the  English,  west  of  the  mountains, 
for  one  year. 

On  the- 9th  of  July,  1755,  General  Braddock*  was 
defeated  within  ten  miles  of  Fort  Duquesne.  His 
army,  composed  mainly  of  veteran  English  troops, 
passed  into  an  ambuscade  formed  by  a  far  inferior 
body  of  French  and  Indians,  who,  lying  concealed  in 
.two  deep  ravines  each  side  of  his  line  of  march, 
poured  in  upon  the  compact  body  of  their  enemy 
volleys  of  musketry,  with  almost  perfect  safety  to,  them- 
selves. The  Virginia  provincials,  under  Washington, 

*  Braddock  was  totally  unfit  to  head  an  important  military  expe- 
dition. Vain,  rash,  arrogant,  and  without  military  capacity,  a  broken- 
down  debauchee  and  gambler,  he  was  hated  and  despised  the  moment 
he  assumed  the  command.  "  "We  have  a  general,"  wrote  the  brave  and 
accomplished  William  Shirley,  from  the  camp  at  Cumberland,  to  his 
friend  Gouverneur  Morris,  at  Philadelphia,  "  most  judiciously  disquali- 
fied for  the  service  he  is  employed  in,  in  almost  every  respect.  I  am 
greatly  disgusted  in  seeing  an  expedition,  as  it  is  called,  so  ill  con- 
certed in  England,  so  ill  appointed,  and  so  improperly  conducted 
since  in  America.  I  shall  be  very  happy  to  retract  hereafter  what  I 
have  said,  and  submit  to  be  censured  as  moody  and  apprehensive.  I 
hope,  my  dear  Morris,  to  spend  a  tolerable  winter  with  you  at  Phila- 
delphia." Poor  Shirley  never  saw  that  winter.  He  was  shot  through 
the  brain  at  the  beginning  of  the  battle. 

3 


26         THE  GAEDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

by  their  knowledge  of  border  warfare  and  cool  bravery, 
alone  saved  the  army  from  complete  ruin.  Braddock 
was  himself  mortally  wounded  by  a  provincial  named 
Fausett.  A  brother  of  the  latter  had  disobeyed  the 
silly  orders  of  the  general  that  the  troops  should 
not  take  positions  behind  the  trees,  when  Braddock 
rode  up  and  struck  him  down.  Fausett,  who  saw  the 
whole  transaction,  immediately  drew  up  his  rifle  and 
shot  him  through  the  lungs,  partly  from  revenge  and 
partly  as  a  measure  of  salvation  to  the  army,  which 
was  being  sacrificed  to  his  headstrong  obstinacy  and 
inexperience. 

The  result  of  this  battle  gave  the  French  and  In- 
dians a  complete  ascendency  on  the  Ohio,  and  put  a 
check  to  the  operations  of  the  English,  west  of  the 
mountains,  for  two  or  three  years.  In  July,  1758, 
General  Forbes,  with  seven  thousand  men,  left  Carlisle, 
Penn.,  for  the  west.  A  corps  in  advance,  princi- 
pally of  Highland  Scotch,  under  Major  Grant,  were 
on  the  13th  of  September  defeated  in  the  vicinity  of 
Fort  Duquesne,  on  the  site  of  Pittsburg.  A  short 
time  after,  the  French  and  Indians  made  an  unsuccess- 
ful attack  upon  the  advanced  guard,  under  Colonel 
Boquet. 

In  November  the  commandant  of  Fort  Duquesne, 
unable  to  cope  with  the  superior  force  approaching 
under  Forbes,  abandoned  the  fortress,  and  descended 
to  New  Orleans.  On  his  route  he  erected  Fort  Massac, 
so  called  in  honor  of  M.  Massac,  who  superintended  its 
construction.  It  was  upon  the  Ohio,  within  forty 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  27 

miles  of  its  mouth,  and  within  the  limits  of  Illinois. 
Forbes  repaired  Fort  Duquesne,  and  changed  its  name 
to  Fort  Pitt,  in  honor  of  the  English  prime  minister. 

The  English  were  now  for  the  first  time  in  possession 
of  the  Upper  Ohio.  In  the  spring  they  established 
several  posts  in  that  region,  prominent  among  which 
was  Fort  Burd,  or  Redstone  Old  Fort,  on  the  site  of 
Brownsville. 

Owing  to  the  treachery  of  Governor  Lyttleton,  in 
1760,  by  which  twenty-two  Cherokee  chiefs  on  an  em- 
bassy of  peace  were  made  prisoners  at  Fort  George,  on 
the  Savannah,  that  nation  flew  to  arms,  and  for  a  while 
desolated  the  frontiers  of  Virginia  and  the  Carolinas. 
Fort  Loudon,  in  East  Tennessee,  having  been  besieged 
by  the  Indians,  the  garrison  capitulated  on  the  7th  of 
August,  and  on  the  day  afterwards,  while  on  the  route 
to  Fort  George,  were  attacked  and  the  greater  part 
massacred.  In  the  summer  of  1761  Colonel  Grant 
invaded  their  country,  and  compelled  them  to  sue  for 
peace.  On  the  north  the  most  brilliant  success  had 
attended  the  British  arms.  Ticonderoga,  Crown  Point, 
Fort  Niagara,  and  Quebec  were  taken  in  1759,  and 
the  next  year  Montreal  fell,  and  with  it  all  of 
Canada. 

By  the  treaty  of  Paris,  in  1763,  France  gave  up  her 
claim  to  New  France  and  Canada,  embracing  all  the 
country  east  of  the  Mississippi  from  its  source  to  the 
Bayou  Iberville.  The  remainder  of  her  Mississippi 
possessions,  embracing  Louisiana  west  of  the  Mississip- 
pi, and  the  Island  of  Orleans,  she  soon  after  secretly 


28  THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OB 

ceded  to  Spain,  which  terminated  the  dominion  of 
France  on  this  continent,  and  her  vast  plans  for  empire. 

At  this  period  Lower  Louisiana  had  become  of  con- 
siderable importance.  The  explorations  of  La  Salle  in 
the  Lower  Mississippi  country  were  renewed  in  1697 
by  Lemoine  D'Iberville,  a  brave  French  naval  officer. 
Sailing  with  two  vessels,  he  entered  the  Mississippi  in 
March,  1698,  by  the  Bayou  Iberville.  He  built  forts 
on  the  Bay  of  Biloxi,  and  at  Mobile,  both  of  which 
were  deserted  for  the  Island  of.Dauphine,  which  for 
years  was  the  head  quarters  of  the  colony.  He  also 
erected  Fort  Balise,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and 
fixed  on  the  site  of  Fort  Rosalie ;  which  latter  became 
•the  scene  of  a  bloody  Indian  war. 

After  his  death,  in  1706,  Louisiana  was  but  little 
more  than  a  wilderness ;  and  a  vain  seardi  for  gold, 
and  trading  in  furs,  rather  than  the  substantial  pur- 
suits of  agriculture,  allured  the  colonists,  and  much 
time  was  lost  in  journeys  of  discovery,  and  in  collect- 
ing furs  among  distant  tribes.  Of  the  occupied  lands, 
Biloxi  was  a  barren  sand,  and  the  -soil  of  the  Isle  of 
Dauphine  poor.  Bienville,  the  brother  and  successor 
of  D'Iberville,  was  at  the  fort  on  the  Delta  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, where  he  and  his  soldiers  were  liable  to  inun- 
dations, and  held  joint  possession  with  mosquitoes, 
frogs,  snakes,  and  alligators. 

In  1712  Antoine  de  Crozat,  an  East  India  merchant, 
of  vast  wealth,  purchased  a  grant  of  the  entire  coun- 
try, with  the  exclusive  right  of  commerce  for  sixteen 
years.  But  in  1717,  the  speculation  having  resulted 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  29 

in  his  ruin,  and  to  the  injury  of  the  colonists,  he  sur- 
rendered his  privileges.  Soon  after,  a  number  of  other 
adventurers,  under  the  name  of  the  Mississippi  Compa- 
ny, obtained  from  the  French  government  a  charter 
which  gave  them  all  the  rights  of  sovereignty,  except 
the  bare  title,  including  a  complete  monopoly  of  the 
trade  and  the  mines.  Their  expectations  were  chiefly 
from  the  mines ;  and  on  the  strength  of  a  former 
traveller,  Nicolas  Perrot,  having  discovered  a  copper 
mine  in  the  valley  of  St.  Peter's,  the  directors  of  the 
company  assigned  to  the  soil  of  Louisiana  silver  and 
gold,  and  to  the  mud  of  the  Mississippi  diamonds  and 
pearls.  The  notorious  Law,  who  then  resided  at  Paris, 
was  the  secret  agent  of  the  company.  To  form  its 
capital,  its  shares  were  sold  at  five  hundred  livres  each; 
and  such  was  the  speculating  mania  of  the  times,  that 
in  a  short  time  more  than  a  hundred  millions  were 
realized.  Although  this  proved  ruinous  to  individuals, 
yet  the  colony  was  greatly  benefited  by  the  consequent 
emigration,  and  agriculture  and  commerce  flourished. 
In  1719  Renault,  an  agent  of  the  Mississippi  Compa- 
ny, left  France  with  about  two  hundred  miners  and  emi- 
grants, to  carry  out  the  mining  schemes  of  the  company. 
He  bought  five  hundred  slaves  at  St.  Domingo,  to 
work  the  mines,  which  he  conveyed  to  Illinois  in  1720. 
He  established  himself  a  few  miles  above  Kaskaskia, 
and  founded  there  the  village  of  St.  Philip's.  Extrava- 
gant expectations  existed  in  France  of  his  probable 
success  in  obtaining  gold  and  silver.  He  sent  out  ex- 
ploring parties  in  various  sections  of  Illinois  and  Mis- 
3* 


30         THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

souri.  His  explorations  extended  to  the  banks  of  the 
Ohio  and  Kentucky  Rivers,  and  even  to  the  Cumber- 
land valley  in  Tennessee,  where,  at  "  French  Lick," 
on  the  site  of  Nashville,  the  French  established  a 
trading  post.  Although  Renault  was  wofully  disap- 
pointed in  not  discovering  extensive  mines  of  gold  or 
silver,  yet  he  made  various  discoveries  of  lead ;  among 
which  were  the  mines  north  of  Potosi,  and  those  on  the 
St.  Francois.  He  eventually  turned  his  whole  atten- 
tion to  the  smelting  of  lead,  of  which  he  made  consid- 
erable quantities  and  shipped  to  France.  He  remained 
in  the  country  until  1744.  Nothing  of  consequence 
was  again  done  in  mining  until  after  the  American 
revolution. 

In  1718  Bienville  laid  out  the  town  of  New  Orleans, 
on  the  plan  of  Rochefort,  France.  Some  four  years 
after,  the  bankruptcy  of  Law  threw  the  colony  into  the 
greatest  confusion,  and  occasioned  wide-spread  ruin  in 
France,  where  speculation  had  been  carried  to  an  ex- 
treme unknown  before. 

The  expenditures  for  Louisiana  were  consequently 
stopped ;  but  the  colony  had  now  gained  strength  to 
struggle  for  herself.  Louisiana  was  then  divided  into 
nine  cantons,  of  which  Arkansas  and  Illinois  formed 
each  one. 

About  this  time  the  colony  had  considerable  difficul- 
ty with  the  Indian  tribes,  and  were  involved  in  wars 
with  the  Chickasaws  and  the  Natchez.  This  latter 
named  tribe  were  finally  completely  conquered.  The 
remnant  of  them  dispersed  among  other  Indians,  so 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  31 

that  that  once  powerful  people,  as  a  distinct  race,  was 
entirely  lost.  Their  name  alone  survives  as  that  of  a 
flourishing  city.  Tradition  related  singular  stories  of 
the  Natchez.  It  was  believed  that  they  emigrated 
from  Mexico,  and  were  kindred  to  the  Incas  of  Peru. 
The  Natchez  alone,  of  all  the  Indian  tribes,  had  a  con- 
secrated temple^where  a  perpetual  fire  was  maintained 
by  appointed  guardians.  Near  the  temple,  on  an  arti- 
ficial mound,  stood  the  dwelling  of  their  chief,  called 
the  Great  Sun,  who  was  supposed  to  be  descended 
from  that  luminary,  and  all  around  were  grouped  the 
dwellings  of  the  tribe.  His  power  was  absolute  ;  the 
dignity  was  hereditary,  and.  transmitted  exclusively 
through  the  female  line,  and  the  race  of  nobles  was 
so  distinct  that  usage  had  moulded  language  into  the 
forms  of  reverence. 

In  1732  the  Mississippi  Company  relinquished  their 
charter  to  the  king,  after  holding  possession  fourteen 
years.  At  this  period  Louisiana  had  five  thousand 
whites  and  twenty-five  hundred  blacks.  Agriculture 
was  improving  in  all  the  nine  cantons,  particularly  in 
Illinois,  which  was  considered  the  granary  of  the  colo- 
ny. Louisiana  continued  to  advance  until  the  war 
broke  out  with  England  in  1755,  which  resulted  in  the 
overthrow  of  French  dominion. 

Immediately  after  the  peace  of  1763,  all  the  old 
French  forts  in  the  west,  as  far  as  Green  Bay,  were  re- 
paired and  garrisoned  with  British  troops.  Agents 
and  surveyors,  too,  were  making  examinations  of  the 
finest  lands  east  and  north-east  of  the  Ohio.  Judging 


32         THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  0*R 

from  the  past,  the  Indians  were  satisfied  that  the  Brit- 
ish intended  to  possess  the  whole  country.  The  cele- 
brated Ottawa  chief,  Pontiac,  burning  with  hatred 
against  the  English,  in  that  year  formed  a  general 
league  with  the  western  tribes,  and  by  the  middle  of 
May  all  the  western  posts  had  fallen,  or  were  closely 
besieged  by  the  Indians,  and  the  whole  frontier,  for 
almost  a  thousand  miles,  suffered  from  the  merciless 
fury  of  savage  warfare.  Treaties  of  peace  were  made 
with  the  different  tribes  of  Indians  in  the  year  follow- 
ing, at  Niagara,  by  Sir  William  Johnson ;  at  Detroit 
or  vicinity  by  General  Bradstreet ;  and  in  what  is  now 
Coshocton  county,  Ohio,  by  Colonel  Boquet ;  at  the 
German  Flats,  on  the  Mohawk,  with  the  Six  Nations 
and  their  confederates.  By  these  treaties  extensive 
tracts  were  ceded  by  the  Indians,  in  New  York  and 
Pennsylvania,  and  south  of  Lake  Erie. 

Peace  having  been  concluded,  the  excitable  frontier 
population  began  to  cross  the  mountains.  Small  settle- 
ments were  formed  on  the  main  routes,  extending  north 
towards  Fort  Pitt,  and  south  to  the  head  waters  of  the 
Holston  and  Clinch,  in  the  vicinity  of  South-western 
Virginia.  In  1766  a  town  was  laid  out  in  the  vicinity 
of  Fort  Pitt.  Military  land  warrants  had  been  issued 
in  great  numbers,  and  a  perfect  mania  for  western 
land  had  taken  possession  of  the  people  of  the  middle 
colonies.  The  treaty  made  by  Sir  William  Johnson  at 
Fort  Stanwix,  on  the  site  of  Utica,  New  York,  in  Oc- 
tober, 1768,  with  the  Six  Nations  and  their  confeder- 
ates, and  those  of  Hard  Labor  and  Lochaber,  made 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  33 

with  the  "Cherokees,  afforded  a  pretext  under  which 
the  settlements  were  advanced.  It  was  now  falsely 
claimed  that  the  Indian  title  was  extinguished  east  and 
south  of  the  Ohio,  to  an  indefinite  extent,  and  the 
spirit  of  emigration  and  speculation  in  land  greatly 
increased.  Among  the  land  companies  formed  at  this 
time  was  the  "  Mississippi  Company,"  of  which  George 
Washington  was  an  active  member. 

Up  to  this  period  very  little  was  known  by  the  Eng- 
lish of  the  country  south  of  the  Ohio.  In  1754  James 
M.  Bride,  with  some  others,  had  passed  down  the  Ohio 
in  canoes,  and,  landing  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kentucky 
Elver,  marked  the  initials  of  their  names,  and  the  date, 
on  the  barks  of  trees.  On  their  return,  they  were  the 
first  to  give  a  particular  account  of  the  beauty  and  rich- 
ness of  the  country  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  British  set- 
tlements. No  further  notice  seems  to  have  been  taken, 
of  Kentucky  until  the  year  1767,  when  John  Finlay, 
an  Indian  trader,  with  others,  passed  through  a  part 
of  the  rich  lands  of  Kentucky,  then  called  by  the  In- 
dians "  the  Dark  and  Bloody  Ground"  Finlay,  re- 
turning to  North  Carolina,  fired  the  curiosity  of  his 
neighbors  by  the  reports  of  the  discoveries  he  had 
made.  In  consequence  of  this  information,  Colonel 
Daniel  Boone,  in  company  with  Finlay,  Stewart,  Hoi- 
den,  Monay,  and  Cool,  set  out  from  their  residence  on 
the  Yadkin,  in  North  Carolina,  May  1,  1769,  and  after 
a  long  and  fatiguing  march  over  a  mountainous  and 
pathless  wilderness,  arrived  on  the  Red  River.  Here, 
from  the  top  of  an  eminence,  Boone  and  his  compan- 


34         THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

ions  first  beheld  a  distant  view  of  the  beautiful  lands 
of  Kentucky.  The  plains  and  forests  abounded  with 
wild  beasts  of  every  kind;  deer  and  elk  were  common; 
the  buffalo  were  seen  in  herds,  and  the  plains  covered 
with  the  richest  verdure.  The  glowing  descriptions 
of  these  adventurers  inflamed  the  imaginations  of  the 
borderers,  and  their  own  sterile  hills  and  mountains 
beyond  lost  their  charms  when  compared  to  the  fertile 
plains  of  this  newly-discovered  Paradise  in  the  West. 

In  1770  Ebenezer  Silas  and  Jonathan  Zane  settled 
Wheeling.  In  1771  such  was  the  rush  of  emigration 
to  Western  Pennsylvania  and  Western  Virginia,  in  the 
region  of  the  Upper  Ohio,  that  every  kind  of  bread- 
stuff became  so  scarce  that,  for  several  months,  a  great 
part  of  the  population  were  obliged  to  subsist  entirely 
on  meats,  roots,  vegetables,  and  milk,  to  the  entire  ex- 
clusion of  all  breadstuffs ;  and  hence  that  period  was 
long  after  known  as  "  the  starving  year"  Settlers, 
enticed  by  the  beauty  of  the  Cherokee  country,  emi- 
grated to  East  Tennessee,  and  hundreds  of  families 
also  moved  farther  south,  to  the  mild  climate  of  West 
Florida,  which  at  this  period  extended  to  the  Mississippi. 
In  the  summer  of  1773  Frankfort  and  Louisville,  Ken- 
tucky, were  laid  out.  The  next  year  was  signalized  by 
"  Dunmore's  war,"  which  temporarily  checked  the 
settlements. 

In  the  summer  of  1774  several  other  parties  of  sur- 
veyors and  hunters  entered  Kentucky,  and  James  Har- 
rod  erected  a  dwelling,  the  first  erected  by  whites  in 
the  country,  on  or  near  the  site  of  Harrodsburg,  around 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  35 

which  afterwards  arose  "  Harrod  Station."  In  the  year 
1775  Colonel  Richard  Henderson,  a  native  of  North 
Carolina,  in  behalf  of  himself  and  his  associates,  pur- 
chased of  the  Cherokees  all  the  country  lying  between 
the  Cumberland  River  and  Cumberland  Mountains  and 
Kentucky  River,  and  south  of  the  Ohio,  which  now 
comprises  more  than  half  of  the  State  of  Kentucky. 
The  new  country  he  named  Transylvania.  The  first 
legislature  sat  at  Boonesborough,  and  formed  an  inde- 
pendent government,  on  liberal  and  rational  principles. 
Henderson  was  very  active  in  granting  lands  to  new 
settlers.  The  legislature  of  Virginia  subsequently 
crushed  his  schemes;  they  claimed  the  sole  right  to 
purchase  lands  from  the  Indians,  and  declared  his 
purchase  null  and  void.  But  as  some  compensation 
for  the  services  rendered  in  opening  the  wilderness,  the 
legislature  granted  to  the  proprietors  a  tract  of  land, 
twelve  miles  square,  on  the  Ohio,  below  the  mouth  of 
Green  River. 

In  1775  Daniel  Boone,  in  the  employment  of  Hen- 
derson, laid  out  the  town  and  fort  afterwards  called 
Boonesborough.  From  this  time  Boonesborough  and 
Harrodsburg  became  the  nucleus  and  support  of  emi- 
gration and  settlement  in  Kentucky.  In  May  another 
fort  was  also  built,  which  was  under  the  command  of 
Colonel  Benjamin  Logan,  and  named  Logan's  Fort. 
It  stood  on  the  site  of  Stanford,  in  Lincoln  county,  and 
became  an  important  post. 

In  1776  the  jurisdiction  of  Virginia  was  formally 
extended  over  the  colony  of  Transylvania,  which  was 

'• 


36        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

organized  into  a  county  named  Kentucky,  and  the  first 
court  was  held  at  Harrodsburg  in  the  spring  of  1787. 
At  this  time  the  war  of  the  revolution  was  in  full 
progress,  and  the  early  settlers  of  Kentucky  were  par- 
ticularly exposed  to  the  incursions  of  the  Indian  allies 
of  Great  Britain,  a  detailed  account  of  which  is  else- 
where given  in  this  volume.  The  early  French  settle- 
ments in  the  Illinois  country,  now  being  in  posses- 
sion of  that  power,  formed  important  points  around 
which  the  British  assembled  the  Indians,  and  instigated 
them  to  murderous  incursions  against  the  pioneer 
population. 

The  year  1779  was  marked,  in  Kentucky,  by  the 
passage  of  the  Virginia  land  laws.  At  this  time 
there  existed  claims  of  various  kinds  to  the  western 
lands.  Commissioners  were  appointed  to  examine  and 
give  judgment  upon  these  various  claims  as  they  might 
be  presented.  These  having  been  provided  for,  the 
residue  of  the  rich  lands  of  Kentucky  were  in  the 
market.  As  a  consequence  of  the  passage  of  these 
laws,  a  vast  number  of  emigrants  crossed  the  moun- 
tains into  Kentucky  to  locate  land  warrants ;  and  in 
the  years  1779, 1780,  and  1781,  the  great  and  absorb- 
ing topic  in  Kentucky  was  to  enter,  survey,  and  obtain 
patents  for  the  richest  lands,  and  this,  too,  in  the  face 
of  all  the  horrors  and  dangers  of  an  Indian  war. 

Although  the  main  features  of  the  Virginia  land 
laws  were  just  and  liberal,  yet  a  great  defect  existed 
in  their  not  providing  for  a  general  survey  of  the  coun- 
try by  the  parent  state,  and  its  subdivision  into  sections 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  37 

and  parts  of  sections.  Each  warrant  holder  being 
required  to  make  his  own  survey,  and  having  the 
privilege  of  locating  according  to  his  pleasure,  in- 
terminable confusion  arose  from  want  of  precision 
in  the  boundaries.  In  unskilful  hands,  entries,  sur- 
veys, and  patents  were  piled  upon  each  other, 
overlapping  and  crossing  in  inextricable  confusion ; 
hence,  when  the  country  became  densely  populated, 
arose  vexatious  lawsuits  and  perplexities.  Such 
men  as  Kentbn  and  Boone,  who  had  done  so  much 
for  the  welfare  of  Kentucky  in  its  early  days  of 
trial,  found  their  indefinite  entries  declared  null 
and  void,  and  were  dispossessed,  in  their  old  age, 
of  any  claim  upon  that  soil  for  whjch  they  had 
perilled  their  all. 

The  close  of  the  revolutionary  war,  for  a  time  only, 
suspended  Indian  hostilities,  when  the  Indian  war 
was  again  carried  on  with  renewed  energy.  This 
arose  from  the  failure  of  both  countries  from  fully 
executing  the  terms  of  the  treaty.  By  if  England 
was  obliged  to  surrender  the  north-western  posts 
within  the  boundaries  of  the  Union,  and  to  return 
slaves  taken  during  the  war.  The  United  States,  on 
their  part,  had  agreed  to  offer  no  legal  obstacles  to  the 
collection  of  debts  due  from  her  citizens  to  those  of 
Great  Britain.  Virginia,  indignant  at  the  removal  of 
her  slaves  by  the  British  fleet,  by  law  prohibited  the 
collection  of  British  debts,  while  England,  in  conse- 
quence, refused  to  deliver  up  the  posts,  so  that  they 
4 


88         THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

were  held  by  her  more  than  ten  years,  until  Jay's 
treaty  was  concluded. 

Settlements  rapidly  advanced.  Simon  Kenton  having, 
in  1784,  erected  a  block-house  on  the  site  of  Maysville, 
—  then  called  Limestone,  —  that  became  the  point  from 
whence  the  stream  of  emigration,  from  down  its  way  on 
the  Ohio,  turned  into  the  interior. 

In  the  spring  of  1783,  the  first  court  in  Kentucky 
was  held  at  Harrodsburg.  At  this  period  the  estab- 
lishment of  a  government  independent  of  Virginia 
appeared  to  be  of  paramount  necessity,  in  consequence 
of  troubles  with  the  Indians.  For  this  object  the  first 
convention  in  Kentucky  was  held  at  Danville,  in  De- 
cember, 1784 ;  but  it  was  not  consummated  until 
eight  separate  conventions  had  been  held,  running 
through  a  term  of  six  years.  The  last  was  assem- 
bled in  July,  1790 ;  on  the  4th  of  February,  1791, 
Congress  passed  the  act  admitting  Kentucky  into  the 
Union,  and  in  the  April  following  she  adopted  a  state 
constitution. 

Prior  to  this,  unfavorable  impressions  prevailed  in 
Kentucky  against  the  Union,  in  consequence  of  the 
inability  of  Congress  to  compel  a  surrender  of  the 
north-west  posts,  and  the  apparent  disposition  of  the 
northern  states  to  yield  to  Spain,  for  twenty  years, 
the  sole  right  to  navigate  the  Mississippi  to  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico,  .the  exclusive  right  to  which  was  claimed  by  that 
power  as  being  within  her  dominions.  Kentucky  was 
suffering  under  the  horrors  of  Indian  warfare,  and 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  39 

having  no  government  of  her  own,  saw  that  that 
beyond  the  mountains  was  unable  to  afford  them 
protection.  When  in  the  year  1786  several  states  in 
Congress  showed  a  disposition  to  yield  the  rigfyt  of 
navigating  the  Mississippi  to  Spain;  for  certain  com- 
mercial advantages,  which  would  enure  to  their  bene- 
fit, but  not  in  the  least  to  that  of  Kentucky,  there 
arose  a  universal  voice  of  dissatisfaction ;  and  many 
were  in  favor  of  declaring  the  independence  of  Ken- 
tucky, and  erecting  an  independent  government  west  of 
the  mountains. 

Spain  was  then  an  immense  land  holder  in  the 
west.  She  claimed  all  east  of  the  Mississippi  lying 
south  of  the  31st  degree  of  north  latitude,  and  all  west 
of  that  river  to  the  ocean. 

In  May,  1787,  a  convention  was  assembled  at  Dan- 
ville to  remonstrate  with  Congress  against  the  propo- 
sition of  ceding  the  navigation  of  the  Mississippi  to 
Spain ;  but  it  having  been  ascertained  that  Congress, 
through  the  influence  of  Virginia  and  the  other  south- 
ern states,  would  not  permit  this,  the  convention  had 
no  occasion  to  act  upon  the  subject. 

In  the  year  1787  quite  a  sensation  arose  in  Kentucky, 
in  consequence  of  a  profitable  trade  having  been  opened 
with  New  Orleans  by  General  Wilkinson,  who  de- 
scended thither  in  June,  with  a  boat  load  of  tobacco  and 
other  productions  of  Kentucky.  Previously,  all  those 
who  ventured  down  the  river  within  the  Spanish  settle- 
ments had  their  property  seized.  The  lure  was  then 
held  out  by  the  Spanish  minister,  that  if  Kentucky 


40         THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

would  declare  her  independence  of  the  United  States, 
the  navigation  of  the  Mississippi  should  be  opened  to 
her  ;  but  that  never  would  this  privilege  be  extended 
while  she  was  a  part  of  the  Union,  in  consequence  of 
existing  commercial  treaties  between  Spain  and  other 
European  powers. 

In  the  winter  of  1788-9,  the  notorious  Dr.  Connolly, 
a  secret  British  agent  from  Canada,  arrived  in  Ken- 
tucky. His  object  appeared  to  be  to  sound  the  temper 
of  her  people,  and  ascertain  if  they  were  willing  to 
unite  with  British  troops  from  Canada,  and  seize  upon 
and  hold  New  Orleans  and  the  Spanish  settlements  on 
the  Mississippi.  He  dwelt  upon  the  advantages  which 
it  must  be  to  the  people  of  the  west  to  hold  and  possess 
the  right  of  navigating  the  Mississippi ;  but  his  over- 
tures were  not  accepted. 

At  this  time  settlements  had  been  commenced  within 
the  present  limits  of  Ohio.  Before  giving  a  sketch  of 
these,  we  glance  at  the  western  land  claims. 

The  claim  of  the  English  monarch  to  the  North- 
western Territory  was  ceded  to  the  United  States  by 
the  treaty  of  peace,  signed  at  Paris,  September  3, 
1783.  During  the  pendency  of  this  negotiation,  Mr. 
Oswald,  the  British  commissioner,  proposed  the  River 
Ohio  as  the  western  boundary  of  the  United  States,  and 
but  for  the  indomitable,  persevering  opposition  of  John 
Adams,  one  of  the  American  commissioners,  who  in- 
sisted upon  the  Mississippi  as  the  boundary,  this 
proposition  would  have  probably  been  acceded  to. 

The  states  who  owned  western  unappropriated  lands 


THE  GREAT   WEST.  41 

under  their  original  charters  from  British  monarchs, 
with  a  single  exception,  ceded  them  to  the  United 
States.  In  March,  1784,  Virginia  ceded  the  soil  and 
jurisdiction  of  her  lands  north-west  of  the  Ohio.  In 
September,  1786,  Connecticut  ceded  her  claim  to 
the  soil  and  jurisdiction  of  her  western  lands,  except- 
ing that  part  of  Ohio  known  as  the  "  Western 
Reserve,"  and  to  that  she  ceded  her  jurisdictional 
claims  in  1800.  Massachusetts .  and  New  York  ceded 
all  their  claims.  Besides  these  were  the  Indian  claims, 
asserted  by  the  right  of  possession.  These  have  been 
extinguished  by  various  treaties,  from  time  to  time,  as 
the  inroads  of  emigration  rendered  necessary. 

The  Indian  title  to  a  large  part  of  the  territory  of 
Ohio  having  become  extinguished,  Congress,  before 
settlements  were  commenced,  found  it  necessary  to 
pass  ordinances  for  the  survey  and  sale  of  the  lands  in 
the  North-west  Territory.  In  October,  1787,  Manasseh 
Cutler  and  Winthrop  Sargeant,  agents  of  the  New 
England  Ohio  Company,  made  a  large  purchase  of 
land,  bounded  south  by  the  Ohio,  and  west  by  the 
Scioto  River.  Its  settlement  was  commenced  at  Mari- 
etta in  the  spring  of  1788,  which  was  the  first  made  by 
the  Americans  within  Ohio.  A  settlement  had  been 
attempted  within  the  limits  of  Ohio,  on  the  site  of 
Portsmouth,  in  April,  1785,  by  four  families  from 
Redstone,  Pennsylvania ;  but  difficulties  with  the 
Indians  compelled  its  abandonment. 

About    the    time   of   the   settlement    of   Marietta, 
Congress  appointed  General  Arthur  St.  Clair  governor, 
4* 


42         THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

Winthrop  Sargeant  secretary,  and  Samuel  Hoi- 
den  Parsons,  James  M.  Yarnum,  and  John  Cleves 
Symmes  judges  in  and  over  the  Territory.  They 
organized  its  government  and  passed  laws,  and  the 
governor  erected  the  county  of  Washington,  embracing 
nearly  the  whole  of.  the  eastern  half  of  the  present 
limits  of  Ohio. 

In  November,  1788,  the  second  settlement  within 
the  limits  of  Ohio  was  commenced  at  Columbia,  on 
the  Ohio,  five  miles  above  the  site  of  Cincinnati, 
and  within  the  purchase  and  under  the  auspices  of 
John  Cleves  Symmes  and  associates.  Shortly  after, 
settlements  were  commenced  at  Cincinnati  and  at 
North  Bend,  sixteen  miles  below,  both  within 
Symmes's  purchase.  In  1790  another  settlement 
was  made  at  Galliopolis  by  a  colony  from  France  — 
the  name  signifying  city  of  the  French. 

On  the  9th  of  January,  1789,  a  treaty  was  conclud- 
ed at  Fort  Harmer,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Muskingum, 
opposite  Marietta,  by  Governor  St.  Clair,  in  which 
the  treaty,  which  had  been  made  four  years  previous, 
at  Fort  M'Intosh,  on  the  site  of  Beaver,  Pennsylvania, 
was  renewed  and  confirmed.  It  did  not,  however, 
produce  the  favorable  results  anticipated.  The  Indians, 
the  same  year,  committed  numerous  murders,  which 
occasioned  the  alarmed  settlers  to  erect  block-houses 
in  each  of  the  new  settlements.  In  June,  Major 
Doughty,  with  one  hundred  and  forty  men,  com- 
menced the  erection  of  Fort  Washington,  on  the 
site  of  Cincinnati.  In  the  course  of  the  summer 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  43 

General  Harmer  arrived  at  the  fort  with  three  hun- 
dred men. 

Negotiations  with  the  Indians  proving  unfavorable, 
General  Harmer  marched,  in  September,  1790,  from 
Cincinnati  with  thirteen  hundred  men,  less  than  one 
fourth  of  whom  were  regulars,  to  attack  their  towns 
on  the  Maumee.  He  succeeded  in  burning  their  towns ; 
but  in  an  engagement  with  the  Indians,  part  of  his 
troops  met  with  a  severe  loss.  The  next  year  a  larger 
army  was  assembled  at  Cincinnati,  under  General  St. 
Clair,  composed  of  about  three  thousand  men.  With 
this  force  he  commenced  his  march  towards  the  Indian 
towns  on  the  Maumee.  Early  in  the  morning  of  the 
4th  of  November,  1791,  his  army,  while  in  camp  on  what 
is  now  the  line  of  Darke  and  Mercer  counties,  within 
three  miles  of  the  Indian  line,  and  about  seventy  north 
from  Cincinnati,  were  surprised  by  a  large  body  of 
Indians,  and  defeated  with  terrible  slaughter.  A  third 
army,  under  General  Anthony  Wayne,  was  organized. 
On  the  20th  of  August,  1794,  they  met  and  completely 
defeated  the  Indians,  on  the  Maumee  River,  about  twelve 
miles  south  of  the  site  of  Toledo.  The  Indians,  at 
length,  becoming  convinced  of  their  inability  to  resist 
the  American  arms,  sued  for  peace.  On  the  3d  of 
August,  1795,  General  Wayne  concluded  a  treaty  at 
Greenville,  sixty  miles  north  of  Cincinnati,  with 
eleven  of  the  most  powerful  north-western  tribes,  in 
grand  council.  This  gave  peace  to  the  west,  of  sev- 
eral years'  duration,  during  which  the  settlements  pro- 
gressed with  great  rapidity.  Jay's  treaty,  concluded 


44         THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

November  19,  1794,  was  a  most  important  event  to 
the  prosperity  of  the  west.  It  provided  for  the  with- 
drawal of  all  the  British  troops  from  the  north-western 
posts.  In  1796  the  North-western  Territory  was  divid- 
ed into  five  counties.  Marietta  was  the  seat  of  justice 
of  Hamilton  and  Washington  counties ;  Vincennes,  of 
Knox  county  ;  Kaskaskia,  of  St.  Clair  county  ;  and 
Detroit,  of  Wayne  county.  The  settlers,  out  of  the 
limits  of  Ohio,  were  Canadian  or  Creole  French.  The 
head  quarters  of  the  north-west  army  were  removed 
to  Detroit,  at  which  point  a  fort  had  been  built  by  De 
la  Motte  Cadillac,  as  early  as  1701. 

Originally  Virginia  claimed  jurisdiction  over  a  large 
part  of  Western  Pennsylvania,  as  being  within  her 
dominions ;  yet  it  was  not  until  after  the  close  of 
the  revolution  that  the  boundary  line  was  permanently 
established.  Then  this  tract  was  divided  into  two 
counties.  The  one,  Westmoreland,  extended  from  the 
mountains  west  of  the  Alleghany  River,  including 
Pittsburg  and  all  the  country  between  the  Kish- 
keminitas  and  the  Youghiogeny.  The  other,  Washing- 
ton, comprised  all  south  and  west  of  Pittsburg, 
inclusive  of  all  the  country  east  and  west  of  the 
Monongahela  River.  At  this  period  Fort  Pitt  was  a 
frontier  post,  around  which  had  sprung  up  the  village 
of  Pittsburg,  which  was  not  regularly  laid  out  into 
a  town  until  1784.  The  settlement  on  the  Monon- 
gahela at  "  Redstone  Old  Fort,"  or  "FortBurd,"  as 
it  originally  was  called,  having  become  an  important 
point  of  embarkation  for  western  emigrants,  was  the 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  45 

next  year  laid  off  into  a  town  under  the  name  of 
Brownsville.  Regular  forwarding  houses  were  soon 
established  here,  by  whose  lines  goods  were  systemat- 
ically wagoned  over  the  mountains,  thus  superseding 
the  slow  and  tedious  mode  of  transportation  by  pack- 
horses,  to  which  the  emigrants  had  previously  been 
obliged  to  resort. 

In  July,  1786,  "  The  Pittsburg  Gazette,"  the  first 
newspaper  issued  in  the  West,  was  published ;  the  second 
being  "  The  Kentucky  Gazette,"  established  at  Lexing- 
ton in  August  of  the  next  year.  As  late  as  1791  the 
Alleghany  River  was  the  frontier  limit  of  the  settle- 
ments of  Pennsylvania,  the  Indians  holding  posses- 
sion of  the  region  around  its  north-western  tributaries, 
with  the  exception  of  a  few  scattering  settlements, 
which  were  all  simultaneously  broken  up  and  exter- 
minated in  one  night,  in  February  of  this  year,  by  a 
band  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  Indians.  During  the 
campaigns  of  Harmer,  St.  Clair,  and  Wayne,  Pitts- 
burg  was  the  great  depot  for  the  armies. 

By  this  time  agriculture  and  manufactures  had 
begun  to  flourish  in  Western  Pennsylvania  and  Vir- 
ginia, and  an  extensive  trade  was  carried  on  with 
the  settlements  on  the  Ohio  and  on  the  Lower  Mis- 
sissippi, with  New  Orleans  and  the  rich  Spanish  settle- 
ments in  its  vicinity.  Monongahela  whiskey,  horses, 
cattle,  and  agricultural  and  mechanical  implements  of 
iron,  were  the  principal  articles  of  export.  The  Span- 
ish government  soon  after  much  embarrassed  this  trade 
by  imposing  heavy  duties. 


46        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

The  first  settlements  in  Tennessee  were  made  in  the 
vicinity  of  Fort  London,  on  the  Little  Tennessee,  in 
what  is  now  Monroe  county,  East  Tennessee,  about 
the  year  1758.  Forts  London  and  Chissel  were  built  at 
that  time  by  Colonel  Byrd,  who  marched  into  the 
Cherokee  country  with  a  regiment  from  Virginia. 
The  next  year  war  broke  out  with  the  Cherokees.  In 
1760  the  Cherokees  besieged  Fort  Loudon,  into  which 
the  settlers  had  gathered  their  families,  numbering 
nearly  three  hundred  persons.  The  latter  were  obliged 
to  surrender  for  want  of  provisions,  but,  agreeably  to 
the  terms  of  capitulation,  were  to  retreat  unmolested 
beyond  the  Blue  Ridge.  When  they  had  proceeded 
about  twenty  miles  on  their  route,  the  savages  fell 
upon  them  and  massacred  all  but  nine,  not  even 
sparing  the  women  and  children. 

The  only  settlements  were  thus  broken  up  by  this 
war.  The  next  year  the  celebrated  Daniel  Boone  made 
an  excursion  from  North  Carolina  to  the  waters  of  the 
Holstein.  In  1766  Colonel  James  Smith,  with  five 
others,  traversed  a  great  portion  of  Middle  and  West 
Tennessee.  At  the  mouth  of  the  Tennessee  Smith's 
companions  left  him  to  make  farther  explorations  in 
Illinois,  while  he,  in  company  with  a  negro  lad, 
returned  home  through  the  wilderness,  after  an  ab- 
sence of  eleven  months,  during  which  he  saw  "  neither 
bread,  money,  women,  nor  spirituous  liquors." 

Other  explorations  soon  succeeded,  and  permanent  set- 
tlements  were  first  made  in  1768  and  '69,  by  emigrants 
from  Virginia  and  North  Carolina,  who  were  scattered 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  47 

along  the  branches  of  the  Holstein,  French,  Broad, 
and  Watauga.  The  jurisdiction  of  North  Carolina  was 
in  1777  extended  over  the  western  district,  which  was 
organized  as  the  county  of  Washington,  and  extending 
nominally  westward  to  the  Mississippi.  Soon  after, 
some  of  the  more  daring  pioneers  made  a  settlement  at 
Bledsoe's  station,  in  Middle  Tennessee,  in  the  heart  of 
the  Chickasaw  nation,  and  separated  several  hundred 
miles,  by  the  usual  travelled  route,  from  their  kinsmen 
on  the  Holstein.  A  number  of  French  traders  had 
previously  established  a  trading  post  and  erected  a  few 
cabins  at  the  "Bluff"  near  the  site  of  Nashville.  To 
the  same  vicinity  Colonel  James  Robertson,  in  the  fall 
of  1780,  emigrated  with  forty  families  from  North 
Carolina,  who  were  driven  from  their  homes  by  the 
marauding  incursions  of  Tarleton's  cavalry,  and  estab- 
lished "  Robertson's  Station,"  which  formed  the  nu- 
cleus around  which  gathered  the  settlements  on  the 
Cumberland.  The  Cherokees  having  commenced  hos- 
tilities upon  the  frontier  inhabitants  about  the  com- 
mencement of  the  year  1781,  Colonel  Campbell,  of 
Virginia,  with  seven  hundred  mounted  riflemen,  in- 
vaded their  country  and  defeated  them.  At  the  close 
of  the  revolution,  settlers  moved  in  in  large  numbers 
from  Virginia,  North  and  South  Carolina,  and  Georgia. 
Nashville  was  laid  out  in  the  summer  of  1784,  and 
named  from  General  Francis  Nash,  who  fell  at  Bran- 
dy wine. 

The  people  of  this  district,  in  common  with  those  of 
Kentucky,  and  on  the  Upper  Ohio,  were  deeply  inter- 


48         THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

ested  in  the  navigation  of  the  Mississippi,  and  under 
the  tempting  offers  of  the  Spanish  governor  of  Louisi- 
ana, many  were  lured  to  emigrate  to  West  Florida, 
and  become  subjects  of  the  Spanish  king. 

North  Carolina  having  ceded  her  claims  to  her  west- 
ern lands,  Congress,  in  May,  1790,  erected  this  into  a 
territory  under  the  name  of  the  "  South-western  Ter- 
ritory," according  to  the  provisions  of  the  ordinance 
of  1787,  excepting  the  article  prohibiting  slavery. 

The  territorial  government  was  organized  with  a 
legislature,  a  legislative  council,  with  William  Blount 
as  their  first  governor.  Knoxville  was  made  the  seat 
of  government.  A  fort  was  erected  to  intimidate  the 
Indians,  by  the  United  States,  in  the  Indian  country, 
on  the  site  of  Kingston.  From  this  period  until  the 
final  overthrow  of  the  north-western  Indians  by  Wayne, 
this  territory  suffered  from  the  hostilities  of  the  Creeks 
and  Cherokees,  who  were  secretly  supplied  with  arms 
and  ammunition  by  the  Spanish  agents,  with  the  hope 
that  they  would  exterminate  the  Cumberland  settle- 
ments. In  1795  the  territory  contained  a  population 
of  seventy-seven  thousand  two  hundred  and  sixty-two, 
of  whom  about  ten  thousand  were  slaves.  On  the  first 
of  June,  1796,  it  was  admitted  into  the  Union  as  the 
State  of  Tennessee. 

By  the  treaty  of  October  27,  1795,  with  Spain,  the 
old  sore,  the  right  of  navigating  the  Mississippi,  was 
closed,  that  power  ceding  to  the  United  States  the 
right  of  free  navigation. 

The  Territory  of  Mississippi  was  organized  in  1798, 


THE   GREAT  WEST.  49 

and  Winthrop  Sargeant  appointed  governor.  By  the 
ordinance  of  1787  the  people  of  the  North-west  Terri- 
tory were  entitled  to  elect  representatives  to  a  territo- 
rial legislature  whenever  it  contained  five  thousand 
males  of  full  age.  Before  the  close  of  the  year  1798, 
the  territory  had  this  number,  and  members  to  a  terri- 
torial legislature  were  soon  after  chosen.  In  the  year 

1799  William  H.  Harrison  was  chosen   the  first  dele- 
gate to  Congress  from  the  North-west  Territory.     In 

1800  the  Territory  of  Indiana  was  formed,  and  the 
next  year  William  H.  Harrison  appointed  governor. 
This  territory  comprised  the  present  States  of  Indiana, 
Illinois,  Wisconsin,  and  Michigan,  which  vast  country 
then  had  less  than   six  thousand  whites,  and  those 
mainly  of  French  origin.     On  the  30th  of  April,  1802, 
Congress  passed  an  act   authorizing  a  convention  to, 
form  a  constitution  for  Ohio.     This  convention  met  at 
Chillicothe  in  the  succeeding  November ;  and  on  the 
29th  of  that  month  a  constitution  of  state  government 
was  ratified  and  signed,  by  which  act  Ohio  became  one 
of  the  states  of  the  Federal  Union.     In  October,  1802, 
the  whole  western  country  was  thrown  into  a  ferment 
by  the  suspension  of  the  American  right  of  depositing 
goods  and  produce  at  New  Orleans,  guaranteed  by  the 
treaty  of  1795  with  Spain.     The  whole  commerce  of 
the  west  was  struck  at  in  a  vital  point,  and  the  treaty 
evidently  violated.     On  the  25th  of  February,  1803, 
the  port  was  opened  to  provisions,  on  paying  a  duty, 
and  in  April  following,  by  orders  of  the  King  of  Spain, 
the  right  of  deposit  was  restored. 

5 


50         THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

After  the  treaty  of  1763  Louisiana  remained  in  pos- 
session of  Spain  until  1803,  when  it  was  again  restored 
to  France  by  the  terms  of  a  secret  article  in  the  treaty 
of  St.  Ildefonso,  concluded  with  Spain  in  1800.  France 
held  but  brief  possession ;  on  the  30th  of  April  she 
sold  her  claim  to  the  United  States  for  the  considera- 
tion of  fifteen  millions  of  dollars.  On  the  20th  of  the 
succeeding  December  Generals  Wilkinson  and  Clai- 
borne  took  possession  of  the  country  for  the  United 
States,  and  entered  New  Orleans  at  the  head  of  the 
American  troops. 

On  the  llth  of  January,  1805,  Congress  established 
the  Territory  of  Michigan,  and  appointed  William  Hull 
governor.  This  same  year  Detroit  was  destroyed  by 
fire.  The  town  occupied  only  about  two  acres,  com- 
pletely covered  with  buildings  and  combustible  mate- 
rials, excepting  the  narrow  intervals  of  fourteen  or 
fifteen  feet  used  as  streets  or  lanes,  and  the  whole  was 
environed  with  a  very  strong  and  secure  defence  of  tall 
and  solid  pickets. 

At  this  period,  the  conspiracy  of  Aaron  Burr  began 
to  agitate  the  western  country.  In  December,  1806,  a 
fleet  of  boats,  with  arms,  provisions,  and  ammunition, 
belonging  to  the  confederates  of  Burr,  was  seized 
upon  the  Muskingum,  by  agents  of  the  United  States, 
which  proved  a  fatal  blow  to  the  project.  In  1809  the 
Territory  of  Illinois  was  formed  from  the  westerm  part 
of  the  Indiana  Territory,  and  named  from  the  powerful 
tribe  which  once  had  occupied  its  soil. 

The  Indians,  who,  since  the  treaty  of  Greenville,  had 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  51 

been  at  peace,  about  the  year  1810  began  to  commit 
aggressions  upon  the  inhabitants  of  the  west  under  the 
leadership  of  Tecumseh.  The  next  year  they  were 
defeated  by  General  Harrison,  at  the  battle  of  Tippe- 
canoe,  in  Indiana.  This  year  was  also  distinguished 
by  the  voyage  from  Pittsburg  to  New  Orleans  of  the 
steamboat  "  New  Orleans,"  the  first  steamer  ever 
launched  upon  the  western  waters. 

In  June,  1812,  the  United  States  declared  war 
against  Great  Britain.  Of  this  war  the  west  was  the 
principal  theatre.  Its  opening  scenes  were  as  gloomy 
and  disastrous  to  the  American  arms  as  its  close  was 
brilliant  and  triumphant. 

At  the  close  of  the  war  the  population  of  the  Terri- 
tories of  Indiana,  Illinois,  and  Michigan  was  less  than 
fifty  thousand.  But  from  that  time  onward  the  tide 
of  emigration  again  went  forward  with  unprecedented 
rapidity.  On  the  19th  of  April,  1816,  Indiana  was  ad- 
mitted into  the  Union,  and  Illinois  on  the  3d  of  De- 
cember, 1818.  The  .remainder  of  the  North-west  Ter- 
ritory, as  then  organized,  was  included  in  the  Territory 
of  Michigan,  of  which  that  section  west  of  Lake  Michi- 
gan bore  the  name  of  the  Huron  District.  This  part 
of  the  west  increased  so  slowly  that,  by  the  census  of 
1830,  the  Territory  of  Michigan  contained,  exclusive 
of  the  Huron  District,  but  twenty-eight  thousand  souls, 
while  that  had  only  a  population  of  three  thousand  six 
hundred  and  forty.  Emigration  began  to  set  in  more 
strongly  to  the  Territory  of  Michigan  in  consequence 
of  steam  navigation  having  been  successfully  intro- 


52        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

duced  upon  the  great  lakes  of  the  west.  The  first 
steamboat  upon  these  immense  inland  seas  was  the 
"  Walk-in-the- Water,"  which,  in  1819,  went  as  far  as 
Mackinaw ;  yet  it  was  not  until  1826  that  a  steamer 
rode  the  waters  of  Lake  Michigan,  and  six  years  more 
had  elapsed  ere  one  had  penetrated  as  far  as  Chicago. 

The  year  1832  was  signalized  by  three  important 
events  in  the  history  of  the  west,  viz.,  the  first  appear- 
ance of  the  Asiatic  cholera,  the  great  flood  in  the  Ohio, 
and  the  war  with  Black  Hawk. 

The  west  has  suffered  serious  drawbacks  in  its  prog- 
ress from  inefficient  systems  of  banking.  One  bank 
frequently  was  made  the  basis  of  another,  and  that 
of  a  third,  and  so  on  throughout  the  country.  Some 
three  or  four  shrewd  agents  or  directors,  in  establish- 
ing a  bank,  would  collect  a  few  thousands  in  specie,  that 
had  been  honestly  paid  in,  and  then  make  up  the  re- 
mainder of  the  capital  with  the  bills  or  stock  from 
some  neighboring  bank.  Thus,  so  intimate  was  the 
connection  of  each  bank  with  others,  that,  when  one 
or  two  gave  way,  they  all  went  down  together  in  one 
common  ruin. 

In  1804,  the  year  succeeding  the  purchase  of  Louisi- 
ana, Congress  formed  from  part  of  it  the  "  Territory 
of  Orleans,"  which  was  admitted  into  the  Union  in 
1812,  as  the  State  of  Louisiana.  In  1805,  after  the 
Territory  of  Orleans  was  erected,  the  remaining  part 
of  the  purchase  from  the  French  was  formed  into  the 
Territory  of  Louisiana,  of  which  the  old  French  town 
of  St.  Louis  was  the  capital.  This  town,  the  oldest  in 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  53 

the  territory,  had  been  founded  in  1764,  by  M.  Laclede, 
agent  for  a  trading  association,  to  whom  had  been 
given,  by  the  French  government  of  Louisiana,  a  mo- 
nopoly of  the  commerce  in  furs  and  peltries  with  the 
Indian  tribes  of  the  Missouri  and  Upper  Mississippi. 
The  population  of  the  territory  in  1805  was  trifling, 
and  consisted  mainly  of  French  Creoles  and  traders, 
who  were  scattered  along  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi 
and  the  Arkansas.  Upon  the  admission  of  Louisiana 
as  a  state,  the  name  of  the  Territory  of  Louisiana  was 
changed  to  that  of  Missouri.  From  the  southern  part 
of  this,  in  1819,  was  erected  the  Territory  of  Arkansas, 
which  then  contained  but  a  few  thousand  inhabitants, 
who  were  mainly  in  detached  settlements  on  the  Mis- 
sissippi and  on  the  Arkansas,  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
"  Post  of  Arkansas."  The  first  settlement  in  Arkan- 
sas was  made  on  the  Arkansas  River,  about  the  year 
1723,  upon  the  grant  of  the  notorious  John  Law  ;  but, 
being  unsuccessful,  was  soon  after  abandoned.  In 
1820  Missouri  was  admitted  into  the  Union,  and 
Arkansas  in  1836. 

Michigan  was  admitted  as  a  state  in  1837.  The 
Huron  District  was  organized  as  the  Wisconsin  Terri- 
tory in  1836,  and  was  admitted  into  the  Union  as  a 
state  in  1848.  The  first  settlement  in  Wisconsin  was 
made  in  1665,  when  Father  Claude  Allouez  established 
a  mission  at  La  Pointe,  at  the  western  end  of  Lake 
Superior.  Four  years  after,  a  mission  was  permanently 
established  at  Green  Bay ;  and  eventually  the  French 
also  established  themselves  at  Prairie  du  Chien.  In 


54         THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

1819  an  expedition,  under  Governor  Cass,  explored 
the  territory,  and  found  it  to  be  little  more  than  the 
abode  of  a  few  Indian  traders,  scattered  here  and  there. 
About  this  time  the  government  established  military 
posts  at  Green  Bay  and  Prairie  du  Chien.  About  the 
year  1825  some  farmers  settled  in  the  vicinity  of  Gale- 
na, which  had  then  become  a  noted  mineral  region. 
Immediately  after  the  war  with  Black  Hawk,  emigrants 
flowed  in  from  New  York,  Ohio,  and  Michigan,  and 
the  flourishing  towns  of  Milwaukie,  Stieboygan,  Racine, 
and  Southport  were  laid  out  on  tne  borders  of  Lake 
Michigan.  At  the  conclusion  of  the  same  war,  the 
lands  west  of  the  Mississippi  were  thrown  open  to  emi- 
grants, who  commenced  settlements  in  the  vicinity  of 
Fort  Madison  and  Burlington  in  1833.  Dubuque  had 
long  before  been  a  trading  post,  and  was  the  first  set- 
tlement in  Iowa.  It  derived  its  name  from  Julien 
Dubuque,  an  enterprising  French  Canadian,  who,  in 
1798,  obtained  a  grant  of  one  hundred  and  forty  thou- 
sand acres  from  the  Indians,  upon  which  he  resided 
until  his  death  in  1810,  when  he  had  accumulated  im- 
mense wealth  by  lead  mining  and  trading.  In  June, 
1838,  Iowa  was  erected  into  a  territory,  and  in  1846 
became  a  state. 

In  1849  Minnesota  Territory  was  organized  ;  it  then 
contained  a  little  less  than  five  thousand  souls.  The 
first  American  establishment  in  the  territory  was  Fort 
Snelling,  at  the  mouth  of  St.  Peter's,  or  Minnesota 
River,  which  was  founded  in  1819.  The  French,  and 
afterwards  the  English,  occupied  this  country  with 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  55 

their  fur  trading  forts.  Pembina,  on  the  northern 
boundary,  is  the  oldest  village,  having  been  established 
in  1812  by  Lord  Selkirk,  a  Scottish  nobleman,  under  a 
grant  from  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company. 

California  was  admitted  into  the  Union  as  a  sister 
state  in  1850. 

The  Territory  of  Oregon  was  organized  in  1847,  im- 
mediately after  the  adjustment  of  the  treaty  with  Great 
Britain,  and  its  rapid  increase  in  population  will  soon 
justify  its  citizens  in  imperatively  demanding  an  admit- 
tance as  the  thirty-second  state  of  the  confederacy. 

The  Territory  of  Utah  was  organized  in  1850.  A 
great  deal  of  interest  is  felt  in  relation  to  this  embryo 
state,  owing  to  the  religion  of  its  settlers,  the  Mor- 
mons, and  their  "  peculiar  institution,"  polygamy. 

The  Territory  of  New  Mexico  was  also  organized  in 
1850. 

The  Territories  of  Kansas  and  Nebraska,  after  the 
most  exciting  debate  known  in  congressional  annals, 
were  organized  in  May,  1854.  This  unparalleled 
excitement  arose  from  the  repeal,  in  connection  with 
the  territorial  organization,  of  the  compact  known  as 
the  Missouri  Compromise. 

Thus  "westward  the  star  of  empire  takes  its  way;" 
and  new  states  and  populous  cities  spring  into  life 
beneath  its  glowing  light  with  the  rapidity  of  magic. 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  57 


OHIO. 

THIS  state  has  heretofore  been  classed  among  the 
North-west  States  of  the  American  Union  ;  but  the 
vast  accumulation  of  territory  lying  still  farther  west 
and  north  has  left  Ohio  more  properly  among  the 
Middle  States,  on  the  Atlantic  side  of  the  continent : 
indeed,  her  relative  position,  considered  in  regard  to 
the  present  north-western  possessions  of  the  United 
States,  is  actually  that  of  one  of  the  Eastern  States 
of  this  republic.  Marietta,  the  oldest  town  in  the 
state,  was  settled,  in  1788,  by  the  "  New  England  Ohio 
Company."  The  next  permanent  settlement  was  at 
Columbia,  in  the  following  year.  In  1791,  a  company 
of  French  emigrants  founded  the  town  of  Gallipolis. 
Large  bodies  of  New  England  people,  in  1796,  settled 
several  towns  on  Lake  Erie.  Before  the  above  settle- 
ments were  undertaken,  several  of  the  neighboring 
states,  which,  by  charter  or  otherwise,  were  proprietors 
of  various  tracts  of  unappropriated  western  lands  lying 
within  this  territory,  had,  from  time  to  time,  relin- 
quished their  claims ;  and  numerous  Indian  titles  were 
also  extinguished  by  treaty.  A  territorial  government 
was  formed  in  1799,  in  which  year  the  legislature  con- 
vened for  the  first  time,  at  Cincinnati,  and  elected  Gen- 
eral William  H.  Harrison  as  delegate  to  Congress.  A 
state  constitution  was  formed  in  1802,  by  virtue  of 


58         THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

which,  and  imder  authority  of  Congress,  Ohio  became 
an  independent  member  of  the  federal  Union. 


BOUNDARIES  AND  EXTENT. 

Bounded  north  by  the  State  of  Michigan  and  Lake 
Erie  ;  east  by  the  States  of  Pennsylvania  and  Virginia, 
being  separated  from  the  latter  by  the  Ohio  River ; 
south  by  said  river,  which  divides  it  from  Kentucky  ; 
and  west  by  the  State  of  Indiana.  The  Ohio  River 
washes  the  border  of  the  state,  through  its  numerous 
meanderings,  for  a  distance  of  over  430  miles.  The 
state  contains  40,000  square  miles,  and  measures  200 
miles  from  north  to  south,  by  220  miles  from  east  to 
west.  It  lies  between  38°  30'  and  42°  north  latitude, 
and  between  80°  35'  and  84°  42'  west  longitude. 

RIVERS. 

The  Ohio  River,  which  gives  name  to  the  state, 
washes  its  entire  southern  border.  This  river  is  1004 
miles  long  from  Pittsburg  to  its  mouth,  by  its  various 
windings,  though  it  is  only  614  in  a  direct  line.  Its 
current  is  gentle,  with  no  falls,  excepting  at  Louisville, 
Kentucky,  where  there  is  a  descent  of  22|  feet  in  2 
miles,  which  is  obviated  by  a  canal.  For  about  half 
the  year  it  is  navigable  for  steamboats  of  a  large  class 
through  its  whole  course.  The  Muskingum,  the  largest 
river  which  flows  entirely  in  this  state,  is  formed  by 
the  junction  of  the  Tuscarawas  and  Walhonding  Riv- 


THE   GREAT  WEST.  59 

ers,  and  enters  the  Ohio  at  Marietta.  It  is  navigable 
for  boats  100  mfles.  The  Scioto,  the  second  river  in 
magnitude,  flowing  entirely  within  the  state,  is  about 
200  miles  long,  and  enters  the  Ohio  at  Portsmouth. 
Its  largest  branch  is  the.  Whetstone,  or  Olentangy, 
which  joins  it  immediately  above  Columbus.  It  is  nav- 
igable for  boats  130  miles.  The  Great  Miami,  a  rapid 
river,  in  the  western  part  of  the  state,  is  100  miles 
long,  and  enters  the  Ohio  in  the  south-west  corner  of 
the  state.  The  Little  Miami  has  a  course  of  70  miles, 
and  enters  the  Ohio  7  miles  above  Cincinnati.  The 
Maumee,  100  miles  long,  rises  in  Indiana,  runs  through 
the  north-west  part  of  the  state,  and  enters  Lake  Erie 
at  Maumee  Bay.  It  is  navigable  for  steamboats  to 
Perrysburg,  18  miles  from  the  lake,  and  above  the 
rapids  is  boatable  for  a  considerable  distance.  The 
Sandusky  rises  in  the  northern  part  of  the  state,  and 
after  a  course  of  about  80  miles,  enters  Sandusky  Bay, 
and  thence  into  Lake  Erie.  The  Cuyahoga  rises  in  the 
north  part  of  the  state,  and  after  a  curved  course  of 
60  miles,  enters  Lake  Erie  at  Cleveland.  It  has  a 
number  of  falls,  which  furnish  valuable  mill  seats. 
Besides  these  there  are  Huron,  Vermilion,  Black, 
Grand,  and  Ashtabula  Rivers,  which  enter  Lake  Erie. 

CLIMATE. 

In  general,  the  climate  throughout  the  state  is  high- 
ly favorable  to  human  health.  The  summer  season, 
though  warm,  is  regular,  with  the  occasional  and  some- 


60         THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

what  rare  exception  of  a  whirlwind  or  hurricane.  The 
winters  are  not  severely  cold,  nor  subject  to  violent 
storms ;  and  the  intermediate  seasons  are  delightfully 
pleasant.  It  is  true  that  in  some  of  the  marshy  local- 
ities, giving  rise  to  unwholesome  vapors,  the  inhabit- 
ants are  subject  to  those  peculiar  distempers  always 
prevalent  in  such  districts  ;  but  even  there,  the  range 
of  disorders  scarcely  extends  beyond  fevers  and  agues. 

SURFACE,   SOIL,   &c. 

Near  the  borders  of  Lake  Erie,  and  for  some  distance 
in  the  interior  of  the  northern  part  of  the  state,  the 
surface  is  generally  level,  and  occasionally  somewhat 
marshy.  The  section  of  country  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
Ohio  River,  in  the  eastern  and  south-eastern  quarters, 
is  elevated  and  broken,  although  there  are  no  lofty 
mountains  in  the  state.  But  the  entire  region  is  a 
table  land,  reaching  to  a  height  of  600  to  1000  feet 
above  the  ocean  level.  The  most  level  and  fertile  lands 
are  situated  in  the  interior,  through  which  flows  the 
River  Scioto.  Vast  prairies  lie  near  the  head  waters 
of  that  river,  of  the  Muskingum,  and  the  two  Miami 
Rivers,  upon  which  there  is  no  growth  of  timber,  but 
which  yield  abundance  of  coarse  grass.  The  forests, 
in  other  parts,  produce  oaks,  walnut,  hickory,  beech, 
birch,  maple,  poplar,  sycamore,  papaw,  cherry,  buckeye, 
and  white  wood,  in  all  their  varieties.  Pines  are  un- 
common, and  the  whitewood  is  generally  substituted. 
The  staple  agricultural  product  of  the  state  is  wheat, 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  61 

of  which  enormous  quantities  are  annually  exported. 
Rye,  oats,  buckwheat,  Indian  corn,  and  other  grains, 
are  raised  in  great  profusion  ;  and  nearly  every  species 
of  garden  vegetable  is  cultivated  successfully.  It  is 
estimated  that  nine  tenths  of  the  land  is  adapted  to 
purposes  of  agriculture,  and  that  three  fourths  of  it  is 
extraordinarily  fertile.  Fruits  of  all  descriptions  known 
in  the  same  latitude  grow  luxuriantly  in  all  parts  of 
the  state. 

AGRICULTURE. 

In  1855  there  were  10,000,000  acres  of  improved 
land,  and  about  9,000,000  acres  of  unimproved  land  in 
farms.  The  cash  value  of  the  farms  is  about  $400,000- 
000,  and  the  value  of  implements  and  machinery  be- 
longing to  the  same  about  114,000,000.  The  value  of 
live  stock  in  this  state,  comprising  horses,  sheep,  swine, 
oxen,  cows,  &c.,  was  about  $50,000,000.  The  follow- 
ing are  the  statistics  of  the  products  of  the  soil  for 
1855  :  Wheat,  40,000,000  bushels  ;  rye,  700,000  ;  In- 
dian corn,  73,000,000  ;  oats,  14,000,000  ;  barley,  500,- 
000  ;  buckwheat,  800,000  ;  peas  and  beans,  70,000  ; 
potatoes,  6,000,000  ;  sweet  potatoes,  200,000.  Value 
of  fruit,  $800,000.  Produce  raised  by  market  gardens, 
$225,000.  Butter  and  cheese,  60,000,000  pounds. 
Maple  sugar,  500,000  pounds.  Gallons  of  molasses, 
200,000.  Wool  produced,  11,000,000  pounds.  Flax, 
500,000  pounds.  Hay  cut,  2,000,000  tons.  Robert 
Buchanan,  of  Cincinnati,  says  that  he  sold  last  year, 
from  his  vineyard,  140,000  cuttings,  and  thinks  that 
6 


62         THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

the  whole  number  sold  in  one  season  would  number 
2,000,000  cuttings  and  300,000  stocks.  This  looks 
very  much  like  making  the  Ohio  valley  the  land  of  the 
vine.  These  immense  figures  show  the  extent  of  op- 
erations, and  the  enterprise  of  Ohio  farmers. 

INTERNAL  IMPROVEMENTS. 

Many  important  public  works  have  been  undertaken 
and  accomplished  in  this  state.  The  Ohio  Canal,  307 
miles  in  length,  extends  from  Cleveland,  on  the  shore 
of  Lake  Erie,  to  Portsmouth,  on  the  Ohio  Eiver  ;  and 
there  are  connected  with  it  sundry  branches,  one  of 
which  reaches  50  miles.  This  work,  commenced  in 
1825  and  completed  in  1832,  cost  $5,000,000.  The 
Miami  Canal,  178  miles  long,  extends  from  Cincinnati, 
and  connects  with  the  Wabash  and  Erie  Canal  at  Defi- 
ance. This  is  also  intersected  by  several  branches. 
The  Mahoning,  a  branch  of  the  Ohio  Canal,  commences 
at  Akron,  and  extends  88  miles,  to  Beaver  River.  Two 
continuous  lines  of  railroad  extend  across  the  state; 
from  north  to  south  —  one  from  Cincinnati  to  Sandusky, 
the  other  from  Cincinnati  to  Cleveland,  which  is  also 
connected  by  railroad  with  Pittsburg,  Buffalo,  Sandusky, 
and  Toledo.  There  are  numerous  important  lines  in 
progress,  extending  east  and  west,  and,  indeed,  in  al- 
most every  direction.  The  City  Council  of  Cincinnati 
passed  an  ordinance  to  aid  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi 
Railroad,  chiefly  by  commuting  the  interest  on  the 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  63 

>,000  loan,  and  the  rent  of  the  wharf  until  1861, 
on  condition  that  the  road  shall  be  finished  by  Novem- 
ber, 1857. 

GOVERNMENT. 

The  constitution  provides  for  the  election  of  a  gov- 
ernor biennially  ;  but  he  cannot  be  elected  for  more 
than  three  terms  in  succession.  Members  of  the  Sen- 
ate, 36  in  number,  are  elected  for  two  years,  one  half 
chosen  annually.  The  House  of  Representatives  is 
composed  of  72  members,  elected  for  one  year.  All 
these  elections  are  by  the  people.  The  state  secretary, 
treasurer,  and  auditor  are  chosen  by  the  legislature,  in 
joint  ballot,  for  three  years.  The  sessions  of  the  Gen- 
eral Assembly  commence  annually  on  the  first  Monday 
in  December,  at  Columbus,  the  capital  of  the  state. 
White  males,  21  years  of  age,  residents  for  one  year  in 
the  state,  and  tax  payers,  are  entitled  to  the  right  of 
suffrage.  The  constitution  has  been  recently  revised 
and  modified  ;  but  its  new  features  do  not  seem  to  be 
essential  improvements  in  principle  upon  its  former 
provisions.  Among  the  amendments  introduced  are 
the  following :  The  House  of  Representatives  to  con- 
sist of  100  members  —  both  branches  to  be  chosen  for, 
two  years ;  the  legislature  to  hold  its  sessions  once  in 
two  years  ;  the  lieutenant  governor  to  be  acting  presi- 
dent of  the  Senate,  with  only  a  casting  vote  ;  on  the 
passage  of  every  bill,  the  yeas  and  nays  to  be  required, 
and  a  majority  of  all  the  members  elected,  of  each 


64         THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

house,  to  be  necessary  to  the  passage  of  any  law  ;  all 
judicial  officers  to  be  elected  by  the  people  —  the  judges 
of  the  Supreme  and  Common  Pleas  Courts  for  five 
years  ;  no  state  debts  to  be  contracted  to  an  amount 
of  over  $750,000,  except  in  certain  emergencies,  nor 
the  state  credit  to  be  loaned,  nor  the  state,  nor  any 
county,  city,  or  town  to  hold  stock  in  corporations. 

EDUCATION. 

On  the  admission  of  this  state  into  the  Union,  it  was 
stipulated,  for  certain  considerations,  that  one  thirty- 
sixth  part  of  all  the  territory  should  be  set  apart  for 
the  maintenance  of  common  schools.  This  liberal  res- 
ervation makes  ample  provision  for  securing  to  coming 
generations  the  advantages  of  early  instruction  ;  and, 
thus  far,  the  compact,  on  the  part  of  the  state,  has 
been  faithfully  carried  out.  Good  schools  are  diffused 
all  over  the  land ;  and  all  needful  attention  and  aid 
are  given  by  the<  people  to  their  support  and  improve- 
ment. There  are  many  thousands  of  public  grammar 
and  primary  schools  in  the  state,  some  hundreds  of 
academies  or  similar  seminaries,  and  about  twenty  uni- 
versities, colleges,  and  other  institutions  of  a  high 
order.  The  amount  of  the  school  fund  owned  by  the 
state  is  nearly  12,000,000  ;  and  nearly  $300,000  are  an 
nually  apportioned  to  the  several  counties  for  school 
purposes.  The  number  of  persons  over  20  years  of 
age  who  can  neither  read  nor  write  is  about  35,000. 


THE   GREAT  WEST.  65 

•    ''•,"*•    * 

RELIGION,  &c. 

There  were  in  the  state,  in  1850,  551  Baptist  church- 
es, 90  Christian,  100  Congregational,  5  Dutch  Reformed, 
79  Episcopal,  13  Free,  94  Friends,  71  German  Re- 
formed, 3  Jewish  synagogues,  260  Lutheran,  10  Men- 
nonite,  1529  Methodist,  160  Moravian,  663  Presbyterian, 
130  Roman  Catholic,  2  Swedenborgian,  14  Tunker,  48 
Union,  1  Unitarian,  53  Universalist,  and  60  other  sects, 
the  whole  having  3936  churches.  Total  value  of  church 
property,  $5,793,099. 

POPULATION. 

The  people  of  Ohio  are  remarkable  for  industry,  en- 
terprise, and  public  spirit.  They  have  "  increased  and 
multiplied,"  through  accessions  from  the  older  states, 
and  from  Europe,  in  an  almost  incredible  ratio.  The 
growth  of  the  population  has  been  without  parallel,, 
until,  perhaps,  the  recent  thronging  towards  the  golden 
land  in  the  farthest  west.  From  the  time  when  the 
first  census  was  taken,  a  period  of  only  60  years,  the 
number  of  inhabitants  has  been  augmented  from  3000 
to  over  2,000,000.  The  principal  places  are  Cincinnati, 
the  metropolis ;  Columbus,  the  capital ;  Cleveland, 
Sandusky,  Dayton,  Springfield,  Zanesville,  Marietta, 
and  Portsmouth.  There  were  in  February,  1855,  68 
banks,  with  a  paid  capital  of  $8,718,366  ;  in  February, 
1855,  46  railroads,  of  which  2367  miles  of  track  were 
6* 


66         THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

finished  and  in  operation,  and  1578  in  course  of  con- 
struction. Tonnage  of  the  state,  26,000. 

CINCINNATI. 

the  metropolis  of  Ohio,  capital  of  Hamilton  county,  and 
the  largest  and  most  commercial  place  west  of  the 
Alleghany  Mountains .  It  is  situated  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  Ohio  River,  455  miles  below  Pittsburg,  and 
1548  above  New  Orleans,  and  502  miles  from  Washing- 
ton. It  is  the  largest  city  of  the  Mississippi  valley 
north  of  New  Orleans,  and  the  fifth  in  population  in 
the  United  States.  Population  in  1800,  750  ;  in  1810, 
2540  ;  in  1830,  24,831 ;  in  1840,  46,338  ;  in  1845, 
65,000  ;  1850,  115,438  ;  in  1853,  160,141 ;  and  in 
1855,  about  200,000.  The  suburbs  have  25,000  in- 
habitants additional. 

This  city  is  near  the  eastern  extremity  of  a  valley, 
about  twelve  miles  in  circumference,  surrounded  by  a 
series  of  hills,  which  rise  to  the  height  of  three 
hundred  feet  by  gentle  and  varying  slopes,  and  are 
partly  covered  with  the  native  forest  trees.  From  the 
summit  of  these  hills  is  presented  a  beautiful  and  pic- 
turesque view  of  the  city  and  valley.  It  is  built  on 
two  table  lands,  the  one  elevated  from  forty  to  sixty 
feet  above  the  other.  Low-water  mark  in  the  river, 
which  is  108  feet  below  the  upper  part  of  the  city, 
is  432  feet  above  tide  water  at  Albany,  and  133  feet 
below  the  level  of  Lake  Erie.  Covington  and  New- 
port, opposite,  in  Kentucky,  and  Fulton  and  the 


THE  GREAT  "WEST.  67 

adjacent  parts  of  Mill  Creek  township  on  the  north,  are 
but  suburbs  of  Cincinnati,  and,  if  added  to  the  above 
population,  would  extend  it  to  185,000.  The  shore  of 
the  Ohio  at  the  landing  is  substantially  paved  to  low- 
water  mark,  and  is  supplied  with  floating  wharves, 
adapted  to  the  great  rise  and  fall  of  the  river,  which 
renders  the  landing  and  shipping  of  goods  at  all  times 
convenient. 

Cincinnati  is  laid  out  with  great  regularity.  North 
of  Main  Street,  between  the  north  side  of  Front  Street 
and  the  bank  of  the  river,  is  the  landing,  an  open  area 
of  ten  acres,  with  about  1000  feet  front.  This  area  is  of 
great  importance  to  the  business  of  the  city,  and 
from  surise  to  sunset  presents  a  scene  of  much  activity. 
The  central  part  is  compactly  and  well  built,  with 
spacious  warehouses,  large  stores,  and  handsome  dwell- 
ings ;  and  many  of  them  are  of  stone  or  brick ;  and  of 
those  recently  erected,  a  very  large  number  are  of  a 
beautiful  kind  of  stone :  the  style  of  architecture  is 
constantly  improving.  The  streets  are  well  paved,  ex- 
tensively shaded  with  trees,  and  many  of  the  houses 
surrounded  with  shrubbery.  The  climate  is  more 
variable  than  on  the  Atlantic  coast  in  the  same 
latitude.  Snow  rarely  falls  sufficiently  deep,  or  lies 
long  enough,  to  furnish  sleighing.  Few  places  are 
more  healthy.  The  inhabitants  are  from  every  state  in 
the  Union,  and  from  various  countries  in  Europe. 

The  Ohio  River  at  Cincinnati  is  1800  feet,  or  about 
one  third  of  a  mile  wide,  and  its  mean  annual  range 
from  low  to  high  water  is  about  fifty  feet ;  the  ex- 


68         THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

treme  range  may  be  about  ten  feet  more.  The  greatest 
depressions  are  generally  in  August,  September,  and 
October,  and  the  greatest  rise  in  December,  March, 
May,  and  June.  The  upward  navigation  is  in  winter 
very  rarely  suspended  by  floating  ice,  and  in  some 
winters  not  at  all.  Its  current  at  its  mean  height  is 
about  three  miles  an  hour ;  when  higher  or  rising  it  is 
more,  and  when  very  low  it  does  not  exceed  two  miles. 
The  quantity  of  rain  and  snow  which  falls  annually  at 
Cincinnati  is  near  three  feet  nine  inches.  The  average 
number  of  clear  and  fair  days  in  the  year  is  146 ;  of 
variable,  114  ;  of  cloudy,  105. 

Among  the  public  buildings  is  the  new  Court  House 
and  city  hall ;  the  Cincinnati  observatory ;  the  first 
and  second  Presbyterian  churches  are  beautiful  edifices, 
and  the  Unitarian  church  is  singularly  neat.  There 
are  several  churches,  built  within  the  last  three  years, 
which  possess  great  beauty,  either  internally  or  ex- 
ternally. But  the  most  impressive  building  is  the 
Catholic  cathedral,  which  surpasses  in  beauty  and 
picturesque  effect  the  metropolitan  edifice  at  Balti- 
more. There  are  many  fine  blocks  of  stores,  on  Front, 
Walnut,  Pearl,  Main,  and  Fourth  Streets,  and  the  eye 
is  arrested  by  many  beautiful  private  habitations.  The 
most  showy  quarters  are  Main  Street,  Broadway,  Pearl, 
and  Fourth  Street. 

There  are  over  one  hundred  churches  in  Cincinnati, 
viz. :  7  Baptist,  1  Bethel,  4  Congregational,  5  Disci- 
ples, 5  Episcopal,  2  Friends,  (Hicksite  and  Orthodox,) 
4  Jews*  synagogues,  12  Lutheran,  22  Methodist,  10 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  69 

Presbyterian,  13  Roman  Catholic,  1  Second  Advent, 
1  Unitarian,  1  Unitarian  Baptist,  2  Universalist,  &c. 
There  are  six  market  houses  and  three  theatres,  of 
which  one  is  German. 

The  city  contains  many  literary  and  charitable  insti- 
tutions. The  Cincinnati  college  was  founded  in  1819. 
The  building  is  in  the  centre  of  the  city,  and  is  the 
most  beautiful  edifice  of  the  kind  in  the  state.  It  is  of 
the  Grecian  Doric  order,  with  pilaster  fronts,  and 
facade  of  Dayton  marble,  and  cost  about  $35,000. 
The  law  department  only,  now  in  operation,  has  a 
faculty  composed  of  three  professors,  and  the  course  of 
instruction  embraces  a  period  of  eight  months,  viz., 
from  23d  September  to  1st  June.  Woodward  Col- 
lege, named  from  its  founder,  who  gave  a  valuable 
block  of  ground  in  the  north  part  of  the  city,  has  a 
president  and  five  professors  or  other  instructors,  and, 
including  its  preparatory  department,  near  200  stu 
dents.  The  Fairmont  Theological  Seminary,  under 
direction  of  the  Baptists,  (building  not  yet  finished.) 
The  Cincinnati  Theological  Seminary,  Old  School 
Presbyterian,  was  organized  in  1850.  St.  Xavier's 
College,  under  the  direction  of  the  Roman  Catho- 
lics, has  a  president,  eight  professors,  100  students,  and 
near  5000  volumes  in  its  libraries.  Lane  Seminary,  a 
theological  institution,  is  at  Walnut  Hills,  two  miles 
from  the  centre  of  the  city.  It  went  into  operation  in 
1833 ;  has  a  president,  3  professors,  75  students, 
and  over  13,000  volumes  in  its  libraries.  There  is  no 
charge  for  tuition.  Rooms  are  provided  and  furnished 


70        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

at  $5  per  annum,  and  the  students  boarded  at  62£  to 
90  cents  per  week.  The  Medical  College  was  char- 
tered and  placed  under  trustees  in  1825.  It  has  a  large 
and  commodious  building,  recently  erected,  in  the 
Collegiate  Gothic  style,  a  library  of  over  2000  volumes, 
7  professors,  and  about  150  students.  The  Wesleyan 
Female  -College,  established  in  1844,  has  37  pupils. 
The  Mechanics'  Institute,  chartered  in  1828,  has  a 
valuable  philosophical  and  chemical  apparatus,  a 
library,  and  a  reading  room.  The  free  schools  of  the 
city  are  of  a  high  order,  with  competent  teachers, 
fine  buildings,  and  apparatus.  In  the  colleges  and  high 
schools  there  are  not  less  than  1500  pupils;  in  the 
common  and  private,  20,000  ;  making  an  aggregate  of 
22,000  persons  in  the  various  departments  of  education. 
In  1831  a  college  of  teachers  was  established,  having 
for  its  object  the  elevation  of  the  profession,  and  the 
advancement  of  the  interest  of  schools  in  the  Missis- 
sippi valley,  which  holds  an  annual  meeting  in  Cincin- 
nati in  October.  The  young  men's  Mercantile  Library 
Association  has  a  fine  library  and  reading  rooms.  The 
library  contains  over  13,000  volumes,  and  the  institu- 
tion is  unsurpassed  in  the  United  States.  The 
library  and  reading  rooms  are  connected  in  one  vast 
room,  18  feet  high,  140  long,  and  60  broad.  The 
Apprentices'  Library,  founded  in  1821,  contains  about 
5000  volumes. 

The  charitable  institutions  of  the  city  are  highly 
respectable.  The  Cincinnati  Orphan  Asylum  is  in  a 
building  which  cost  $18,000.  Attached  is  a  library 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  71 

and  well-organized  school,  with  a  provision  even  for 
infants,  and  it  is  supported  by  ample  grounds.  The 
Catholics  have  one"  male  and  female  Orphan  Asylum. 
The  Commercial  Hospital  and  Lunatic  Asylum  of  Ohio 
was  incorporated  in  1821.  The  edifice  is  in  the  north- 
west part  of  the  city,  and  will  accommodate  250  per- 
sons. A  part  of  the  building  is  used  for  a  poorhouse, 
and  there  are  separate  apartments  for  the  insane. 

The  city  is  supplied  with  water  raised  from  the 
Ohio  River  by  steam  power,  capable  of  forcing  into  the 
reservoir  5,000,000  gallons  of  water  each  twelve  hours. 
The  reservoir  is  on  elevated  ground,  (about  400  feet 
above  the  Ohio ;)  its  entire  length  is  368  feet ;  width, 
135  feet ;  and  23  feet  deep ;  estimated  to  contain 
5,000,000  gallons  of  water.  Cost,  $796,000,  and  is  the 
property  of  the  city.  The  city  is  lighted  with  gas, 
supplied  by  the  Cincinnati  Gas  Light  and  Coke  Com- 
pany. Capital,  $11)0,000. 

Cincinnati  is  an  extensive  manufacturing  place.  Its 
natural  destitution  of  water  power  is  extensively  com- 
pensated at  present  by  steam  engines,  and  by  the 
surplus  water  of  the  Miami  Canal  and  the  White 
Water  Canal,  which  extend  25  miles,  and  connect 
with  the  White  Water  Canal  of  Indiana,  half  a  mile 
south  of  Harrison,  on  the  state  line.  The  manufac- 
tures of  the  city,  already  enormous,  may  be  expected 
to  greatly  increase.  It  appears  that  the  manufactures 
of  Cincinnati  of  all  kinds,  according  to  the  census  of 
1850,  employed  a  capital  of  $6,833,796,  and  produced 
articles  valued  at  $19,685,022.  These  amounts,  ac- 


72         THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

cording  to  Cist,  should  be  more  than  doubled  to  express 
the  capital  actually  employed,  and  the  value  of  articles 
produced.  Wine,  from  the  Catawba  grape,  is  exten- 
sively made  from  the  produce  of  the  numerous  vineyards 
in  the  vicinity.  There  are  10  daily,  1  tri-weekly, 
and  21  weekly  newspapers,  and  6  semi-monthly,  24 
monthly,  and  2  quarterly  publications  printed  in  the 
city. 

The  site  on  which  the  Cincinnati  observatory  is 
erected  is  one  of  great  beauty.  The  building  crowns 
a  hill  which  rises  some  500  feet  above  the  line  of  low 
water  of  the  Ohio,  and  commands  a  varied  and 
picturesque  view.  The  main  building  is  built  of 
stone,  80  feet  front,  two  stories  and  a  half  on  the  wings, 
and  three  in  the  centre.  Through  the  centre  of  the 
main  building,  and  founded  on  the  natural  rock,  rises 
a  pier  of  grouted  masonry  eight  feet  square,  entirely 
insulated  from  the  floors  through  which  it  passes,  to 
furnish  a  permanent  and  immovable  basis  for  the  great 
equatorial  telescope,  one  of  the  largest  in  the  world, 
made  at  the  Frauenhofer  Institute,  Munich.  The  focal 
length  is  about  17^  feet ;  the  diameter  of  the  object  glass, 
12  inches ;  bearing  magnifying  powers  varying  from  100 
to  1400  times.  Clockwork  is  attached  to  the  telescope, 
and  its  machinery  and  circles,  by  which  its  mass,  weigh- 
ing some  2500  Ibs.,  is  moved  with -such  admirable  accu- 
racy that  an  object  under  examination  may  be  followed 
by  the  telescope  at  the  will  of  the  observer.  It  is 
mounted  on  a  stone  pedestal,  and  rises,  when  directed 
to  the  zenith,  some  20  feet  above  the  floor  of  the 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  73 

rooms.  The  apartment  is  surmounted  by  a  roof  of 
peculiar  structure,  and  so  arranged  that  a  portion  of 
the  vertical  wall  and  roof,  strongly  framed  together,  and 
mounted  on  wheels  on  a  circular  track,  may,  by  a 
single  person,  be  moved  either  north  or  south,  when 
the  entire  heaven  falls  within  the  sweep  of  the  tele- 
scope. On  the  floor  below,  in  the  transit  room,  is  the 
transit  telescope,  and  connected  with  it  is  an  admirable 
sidereal  clock,  and  also  the  machinery  invented*  by 
Professor  Mitchel ;  this  mechanism  consists  of  two  in- 
struments of  entirely  different  construction,  the  one 
intended  to  record  the  observations  of  right  ascension, 
the  other  observations  of  difference  in  declination.  By 
means  of  the  electro-magnet,  the  clock  is  made  to 
record  its  own  beats  with  surprising  nicety,  on  a  disk, 
revolving  with  uniform  velocity  on  a  vertical  axis.  This 
disk,  covered  with  paper  or  metal,  receives  a  minute 
dot,  struck  into  it  by  a  stylus,  driven  by  a  magnet, 
whose  operating  electric  circuit  is  closed  at  each  alter- 
nate beat,  by  a  delicate  vibrating  wire  attached  to  the 
pendulum  of  the  clock  by  a  spider's  web ;  thus,  at  each 
alternate  vibration  of  the  pendulum,  the  circuit  is  closed ; 
and  the  second  is  entered,  magnetically,  on  the  revolv- 
ing disk.  At  the  close  of  each  revolution,  the  disk 
moves  itself  forward  about  the  tenth  of  an  inch,  without 
check  or  interference  with  the  uniformity  of  its  angu- 
lar motion,  and  a  new  circumference  of  time  dots 
commences  to  be  recorded.  On  the  time  scale  thus 
perpetually  forming  the  observer  can  enter,  magneti- 
cally, by  the  touch  of  a  key,  the  observed  transit  of 
7 


74         THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

any  star  or  other  object  across  the  meridian  wires  of 
the  telescope.  These  entries  are  subsequently  read  from 
the  disk,  even  to  the  thousandth  of  one  second  of  time. 

The  trade  of  Cincinnati  embraces  the  country  from 
the  Ohio  to  the  lakes  on  the  north,  and  from  the  Scioto 
to  the  Wabash  east  and  west.  The  country  bordering 
the  Ohio  River  in  Kentucky,  for  fifty  miles  down,  and 
as  far  up  as  the  Virginia  line,  obtain  their  supplies  here. 
Its  manufactures  are  sent  into  the  Upper  and  Lower 
Mississippi  country. 

There  are  6  incorporated  banks,  with  aggregate 
capital  of  15,800,000,  besides  10  unincorporated  banks  ; 
8  fire  insurance  companies,  3  life  insurance  companies, 
and  1  live  stock  insurance  company.  Cincinnati  is  the 
greatest  pork  market  in  the  world.  The  pork,  bacon, 
lard,  lard  oil,  star  candles,  soap,  bristles,  &c.,  amount 
in  value  to  about  10  millions  of  dollars  annually.  Im- 
ports, year  ending  August  31,  1853,  $51,230,644. 
Exports,  same  year,  $36,266,108.  Tonnage  of  the 
port,  1853,  10,191.  There  were  25  steamboats  and  3 
barges  built  in  1853,  with  an  aggregate  tonnage  of 
10,252  tons.  The  total  arrivals  of  steamboats  for  the 
year  1853  was  3630,  and  the  departures  4113. 

Cincinnati  enjoys  great  facilities  for  communication 
with  the  surrounding  country.  Two  trunk-lines  of 
railroads  enter  the  city,  viz.,  Little  Miami  and  the 
Cincinnati,  Hamilton  and  Dayton.  From  each  of 
these  diverge  numerous  branches.  Two  other  trunk- 
lines  are  constructing,  viz.,  <the  Dayton  Air  Line  and 
the  Ohio  and  Mississippi,  which  is  to  extend  to  St. 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  75 

Louis.  From  Covington,  on  the  Kentucky  side  of 
Ohio,  a  railroad  is  constructed  to  the  heart  of  Ken- 
tucky. 

The  city  is  divided  into  16  wards,  and  is  governed 
by  a  mayor,  and  a  board  of  trustees  of  three  members 
for  each  ward,  styled  the  city  council.  The  mayor  is 
elected  biennially,  and  the  trustees  annually. 

Cincinnati  was  founded  in  1789,  by  emigrants  from 
New  England  and  New  Jersey,  on  the  site  of  Fort 
Washington.  It  has  grown  with  great  rapidity „  and 
being  the  great  emporium  of  the  centre,  it  must  con- 
tinue to  increase  with  a  ratio  unprecedented. 

CLEVELAND. 

City  and  port  of  entry  and  court  house  Cuyahoga 
county.  On  Lake  Erie,  at  the  mouth  of  Cuyahoga 
River.  It  derives  its  name  from  General  Moses  Cleve- 
land, an  agent  of  the  Connecticut  land  company,  who 
accompanied  the  first  surveying  party  to  the  Connecti- 
cut Reserve,  and  under  whose  direction  the  town  was 
first  surveyed  in  1796.  The  Indian  title  to  the  land  it 
occupies  had  been  extinguished  two  years  before ;  but 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Cuyahoga  River  the  Indians 
retained  their  title  till  1805.  Cleveland  was  incorpo- 
rated as  a  village  in  1814,  and  as  a  city  in  1836.  Pop- 
ulation in  1799,  one  family ;  in  1825,  about  500  ;  in 
1830, 1000  ;  in  1840,  6071 ;  in  1850, 17,054 ;  in  1855, 
about  35,000.  It  is  130  miles  north-west  from  Pitts- 


76        THE  GAEDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

burg,  146  north-east  from  Columbus,  200  south-west 
from  Buffalo,  130  east  from  Detroit. 

It  is  situated  on  a  gravelly  plain,  elevated  about  80 
feet  above  the  lake,  of  which  it  has  a  commanding 
prospect.  The  streets,  which  cross  each  other  at  right 
angles,  are  80  feet  wide,  and  Main  Street  120.  The 
location  is  dry  and  healthy,  and  there  are  many  fine 
buildings.  Near  the  centre  is  a  public  square  of  10 
acres,  neatly  enclosed  and  shaded  with  trees. 

The  harbor  at  the  mouth  of  the  Cuyahoga,  since  its 
improvement,  by  piers  on  each  side  extending  into  the 
water,  is  one  of  the  best  on  Lake  Erie,  and  its  position 
at  the  northern  terminus  of  the  Ohio  Canal,  and  the 
fertile  country  and  enterprising  population  by  which  it 
is  surrounded,  have  given  it  a  very  rapid  growth,  which 
as  yet  is  but  just  commencing. 

It  is  already  the  second  commercial  town  in  Ohio, 
and  bids  fair  even  to  rival  Cincinnati.  Besides  its  in- 
tercourse with  the  interior  of  the  state  by  the  Ohio 
Canal,  and  its  extensive  lake  commerce,  it  communi- 
cates by  the  Ohio  and  Pennsylvania  Canal  with  Pitts- 
burg,  and  by  the  New  York  and  Welland  Canals  with 
the  Atlantic  coast.  To  these  facilities  for  transportation 
have  lately  been  added  a  system  of  railroads,  affording 
communication  with  Cincinnati,  Detroit,  Pittsburg,  and 
Buffalo,  and  through  these  two  latter  places  with  Phil- 
adelphia, New  York,  and  Boston.  Ohio  City,  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  Cuyahoga,  is  a  growing  suburb. 


THE   GKEAT   WEST.  77 

COLUMBUS. 

City,  capital  of  the  state,  and  seat  of  justice  of 
Franklin  county.  140  miles  south-west  from  Cleve- 
land, and  125  north-east  from  Cincinnati.  It  is  on  the 
same  parallel  of  latitude  with  Philadelphia,  450  miles 
west,  and  on  the  same  meridian  with  Detroit,  175 
miles  south.  Population  in  1815,  700  ;  in  1820, 1450  ; 
in  1830,  2437 ;  in  1840,  6048 ;  in  1850,  17,871 ;  in 
1855,  40,000.  It  is  situated  on  the  east  bank  of  the 
Scioto,  upon  ground  rising  gradually  from  the  river, 
and  affording  an  eligible  site  for  a  large  city.  This 
spot  was  selected  by  the  legislature  as  the  seat  of  gov- 
ernment in  1812,  while  it  was  yet  a  wilderness,  and 
is  designated  in  the  act  as  "  the  high  bank  of  Scioto 
River,  opposite  Franklinton."  It  is  laid  out,  as  .all 
towns  established  in  such  a  manner  are  usually  laid 
out,  with  the  most  entire  regularity  ;  the  streets  cross- 
ing each  other  at  right  angles,  and  forming  spacious 
squares,  which  are  often  divided  into  lesser  squares  by 
alleys,  or  narrower  streets,  intersecting  each  other  in 
the  middle.  Broad  Street,  which  extends  from  the 
bridge,  over  which  the  national  road  passes  the  Scioto, 
to  the  eastern  limits  of  the  city,  is  120  feet  wide,  and 
High  Street,  at  right  angles  with  this,  which  is  the 
principal  seat  of  business,  is  100  feet  wide.  The  other 
streets  are  88  feet  in  width.  A  substantial  quay  has 
been  constructed  along  the  margin  of  the  river,  1300 
feet  long,  which  affords  every  facility  for  loading  and 

unloading  goods,  produce,  and  other  articles  transport- 

7* 


78         THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

ed  upon  the  river ;  or  through  the  Ohio  Canal,  which 
passes  11  miles  south  of  this  point,  and  is  connected 
with  the  Scioto  at  Columbus  by  a  canal,  or  feeder,  of 
that  length. 

In  the  centre  of  the  town  is  a  public  square  of  10 
acres,  handsomely  enclosed,  designed  originally  for  the 
public  buildings.  It  has  Broad  Street  on  the  north 
side,  and  High  Street  on  the  .west.  Upon  the  south- 
west corner  of  this  square,  fronting  towards  the  west, 
stands  the  State  House,  which  is  a  brick  edifice,  75  feet 
long  by  50  feet  wide,  two  stories  high,  and  surmounted 
with  a  handsome  cupola,  from  the  balcony  of  which  a 
beautiful  view  of  the  city  and  the  surrounding  country 
is  obtained.  The  winding  course  of  the  river,  the 
pleasant  town  of  Franklinton,  on  its  opposite  bank, 
and  many  features  of  the  more  distant  prospect,  give  a 
varied  and  pleasing  interest  to  this  view.  The  Repre- 
sentatives' Hall  is  on  the  lower  floor  of  the  State  House, 
and  the  Senate  Chamber  is  immediately  above.  The 
public  offices  are  in  a  separate  building,  100  feet  long 
by  25  feet  wide,  standing  directly  north  of  the  State 
House.  In  the  same  line,  a  little  farther  north,  is  the 
Court  House  for  the  United  States  District  Court. 
There  are  many  elegant  private  dwellings  in  Colum- 
bus ;  but  the  general  style  of  building  is  characterized 
rather  by  neatness  than  display.  The  churches  of  the 
different  denominations  are  numerous,  and  many  of 
them  well  sustained.  The  First  Presbyterian  Church 
in  Columbus  was  organized  in  1818,  and  their  neat 
brick  edifice  stands  near  the  south-east  corner  of  the 


THE   GREAT  WEST.  79 

public  square.  The  Baptist  Church  is  a  large  and 
handsome  building  at  the  corner  of  Third  and  Rich 
Streets ;  and  the  Episcopal  Church  is  a  stone  edifice  on 
Broad  Street,  opposite  the  public  square. 

The  several  state  institutions  located  at  Columbus 
do  honor  to  the  state,  while  they  greatly  adorn  the  city. 
The  Ohio  Lunatic  Asylum  occupies  an  open  area,  about 
one  mile  east  of  the  State  House,  and  is  a  truly  noble 
structure.  The  buildings  present  a  front  of  376  feet, 
with  wings  on  the  right  and  left  projecting  11  feet  for- 
ward, and  running  back  218  feet,  thus  forming  a  spa- 
cious court  in  the  rear.  They  cover  an  acre  of  ground, 
and  contain  440  rooms.  About  30  acres  of  land  are 
attached  to  the  establishment,  forming  a  quiet  and 
ample  retreat  for  such  patients  as  are  able  to  enjoy  it, 
The  cost  of  erecting  the  buildings  of  the  Lunatic  Asy- 
lum was  over  8150,000. 

The  Ohio  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum  is  located  about 
one  third  of  a  mile  east  of  the  State  House,  011  grounds 
which  are  handsomely  laid  out,  and  adorned  with  shrub- 
bery. Its  site  was  selected  in  1829,  and  it  went  into 
operation  as  soon  as  the  necessary  arrangements  could 
be  made.  The  buildings  are  of  brick,  and  cost,  with 
the  grounds,  about  $25,000. 

The  Ohio  Institution  for  the  Education  of  the  Blind 
is  another  of  these  noble  institutions,  located  at  Colum- 
bus. It  is  situated  on  the  national  road,  about  three 
quarters  of  a  mile  easterly  from  the  State  House.  The 
edifice  is  a  large  and  handsome  structure  of  brick,  with 


80         THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

a  beautiful  lawn  in  front.     The  institution  was  estab- 
lished in  1837,  and  is  in  a  nourishing  condition. 

The  state  penitentiary,  which  is  situated  on  the  east- 
ern bank  of  the  Scioto,  about  half  a  mile  north  from 
the  State  House,  is  the  largest  and  most  imposing  of 
the  public  edifices  at  Columbus.  The  main  building  is 
constructed  of  hewn  limestone,  and  consists  of  a  centre 
building,  56  feet  front,  and  four  stories  high,  with  two 
wings  each,  200  feet  long,  arid  three  stories  high ;  pre- 
senting an  entire  front  of  456  feet  in  extent.  "With  the 
prison  yard  in  the  rear,  upon  the  three  sides  of  which 
are  the  long  ranges  of  workshops  for  the  prisoners,  the 
buildings  of  the  penitentiary  enclose  a  hollow  square 
of  6  acres.  The  centre  building  of  the  main  edifice, 
as  seen  in  front,  contains  the  house  of  the  warden,  the 
office,  and  the  guard  rooms ;  and  each  of  the  wings 
contains  350  cells  for  prisoners,  arranged  in  5  tiers,  and 
exposed  through  the  whole  line  to  the  observation  of 
the  officers  from  the  guard  rooms,  A  railroad,  about 
two  miles  long,  has  been  laid  down  from  the  prison  to 
a  stone  quarry,  where  a  portion  of  the  convicts  are 
employed  in  getting  out  stone.  The  discipline  of  this 
prison  is  excellent.  The  prisoners  attend  divine  ser- 
vice on  the  Sabbath,  and  enjoy  the  privileges  of  a  Sab- 
bath school,  and  the  use  of  an  excellent  library,  com- 
prising several  hundred  volumes.  They  have  Bibles  in 
their  cells,  unite  in  exercises  of  sacred  music,  and  are 
permitted,  occasionally,  to  hear  temperance  addresses, 
&c.,  in  the  chapel.  Their  labor^  yields  .to  the  state, 


THE   GREAT  WEST.  81 

after  defraying  the  expenses  of  the  prison,  a  surplus  of 
$16,000  or  818,000  annually. 

On  the  10th  of  February,  1816,  Columbus  was  in- 
corporated as  a  borough.  Its  present  city  charter  was 
granted  March  3, 1834.  The  mayor  is  elected  for  two 
years.  The  city  is  divided  into  five  wards,  each  of 
which  elects  four  members  of  the  city  council,  who 
hold  their  offices  for  four  years,  one  in  each  ward  being 
elected  annually.  All  other  officers  are  elected  an- 
nually. 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  83 


INDIANA. 

THE  history  of  the  settlement  of  Indiana  is  nearly 
identical  with  that  of  its  twin  sister,  Illinois,  and  of 
much  of  the  vast  surrounding  region  formerly  included 
in  the  so  called  North-west  Territory.  The  first  per- 
manent occupancy  of  the  country  was  effected  in  1702, 
at  a  fertile  spot  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Wabash, 
about  one  hundred  miles  above  its  confluence  with  the 
Ohio.  To  this  place,  which  became  a  fortified  trading 
post,  its  inhabitants  afterwards  gave  the  name  of  Yin- 
cennes.  The  original  settlers  were  French  soldiers 
from  Canada,  belonging  to  the  army  of  Louis  XIY. 
Their  descendants  remained  an  almost  isolated  com- 
munity, increasing  very  slowly  in  numbers  for  nearly 
one  hundred  years  ;  and  in  the  mean  time,  from  habits 
of  constant  intercourse  with  their  Indian  neighbors 
exclusively,  with  whom  they  often  intermarried,  had 
imbibed  a  taste  for  savage  life,  and  had  consequently 
retrogressed  in  the  march  of  civilization.  By  the  treaty 
of  peace  between  France  and  England,  in  1763,  the  ter- 
ritory became  subject  to  the  latter,  from  which  power, 
however,  it  was  wrested  by  the  Americans  during  the 
revolutionary  war.  From  the  close  of  that  struggle, 
in  1783,  until  General  Wayne's  treaty  in  1795,  and 
again  just  before  the  commencement  of  the  second  war 
with  Great  Britain,  the  people,  generally  residing  in 
hamlets  and  villages  remote  from  each  other,  were  ter- 


84 


ribly  harrassed  by  the  incursions  of  the  Indians,  who 
committed  the  most  cruel  atrocities.  These  merciless 
barbarians  were  at  length  effectually  conquered  and 
humbled  by  the  United  States  military  forces  under 
General  Harrison ;  a  season  of  quietude  and  prosperity 
immediately  ensued,  and  a  vast  tide  of  emigration  has 
been  flowing  into  the  state  since  the  peace  of  1815. 
Indiana  was  originally  embraced  in  the  territory  north- 
west of  the  Ohio,  and  so  remained  until  the  year  1800. 
It  was  then,  including  the  present  State  of  Illinois, 
newly  organized  under  the  name  of  Indiana  Territory. 
In  1809-  it  was  divided  into  two  territories,  Illinois 
having  been  set  off,  and  became  an  independent  state 
in  1816. 

BOUNDARIES    AND  EXTENT. 

The  state  is  bounded  north  by  Michigan  and  the 
southern  portion  of  the  lake  of  that  name ;  east  by 
the  State  of  Ohio  ;  south-east  and  south  by  Ohio  River, 
which  divides  it  from  Kentucky ;  and  west  by  Illinois, 
the  Wabash  River  forming  part  of  the  boundary.  It 
lies  between  37°  47'  and  41°  50'  north  latitude,  and  its 
mean  length  is  estimated  at  260  miles;  its  mean 
breadth  is  about  140  miles,  extending  from  84°  45'  to 
88°  west  longitude.  Its  area  comprehends  nearly 
34,000  square  miles. 

RIVERS. 

The  Ohio  River  washes  the  entire  southern  border 
of  this  state  and  furnishes  great  facilities  for  trade. 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  85 

The  "Wabash  is  the  largest  river  in  the  state,  being  500 
miles  in  length.  It  rises  in  Ohio,  and  passes  westward- 
ly  and  south-westwardly  through  the  state,  forming  its 
western  boundary  for  a  distance  of  120  miles.  It  is 
navigable  for  steamboats  to  La  Fayette,  300  miles,  a 
part  of  the  year.  White  River,  200  miles  long,  is  its 
largest  branch,  and  is  navigable  on  its  west  fork  for 
steamboats  to  Indianapolis  in  seasons  of  floods ;  it  con- 
sists of  an  east  fork  and  a  west  fork,  which  unite  about 
30  miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Wabash.  The 
White  Water  River  runs  in  the  eastern  part  of  the 
state,  and  enters  the  Great  Miami.  Lake  Michigan 
touches  this  state  in  the  north-west. 


CLIMATE. 

Residents  of  the  country  characterize  the  climate  as 
generally  mild  and  salubrious.  In  summer  the  tem- 
perature is  genial  and  uninterrupted  by  injurious 
changes.  The  winters  are  neither  long  nor  severe, 
six  weeks  being  considered  as  their  average  duration. 
Frosts,  however,  are  common  in  spring  and  autumn. 
Fevers  and  agues  prevail  only  in  marshy  places,  and  in 
the  neighborhood  of  stagnant  waters. 

SURFACE  AND  SOIL. 

The  face  of  the  country,  though  not  mountainous, 
is  in  some  quarters  hilly  and  broken.    The  greater 
portion  of  the  state,  by  far,  consists  of  immense  tracts 
8 


86         THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

of  level  lands,  studded,  at  intervals  with  picturesque 
clusters  of  trees.  Many  of  the  upland  prairies  are 
skirted  for  long  distances  with  noble  forests,  while 
those  bordering  upon  the  rivers  are  rarely  productive 
of  any  description  of  timber.  The  whole  earth  is 
replete  with  vegetable  wealth.  Upon  the  prairies  there 
is,  at  the  proper  seasons,  intermingled  with  gay  and 
odorous  flowers,  a  thick  covering  of  grass,  growing  to 
a  height  of  seven  or  eight  feet.  The  soil  of  the  prai- 
ries, as  well  those  which  are  elevated  as  those  which 
lie  along  the  rivers,  is  surpassingly  rich,  the  loam  com- 
monly reaching  to  a  depth  of  two  to  five  feet.  The  trees 
of  native  growth  comprise  several  varieties  of  oak,  wal- 
nut, maple,  elm,  sycamore,  beech,  ash,  linden,  locust, 
sassafras,  buckeye,  cottonwood,  cherry,  and  mulberry. 
The  most  important  of  the  cultivated  products  are 
wheat,  Indian  corn,  rye,  and  other  grains,  potatoes, 
and  various  other  esculents.  Grapes,  and  indeed  fruits 
of  all  kinds  peculiar  to  the  climate,  grow  profusely. 
Among  the  many  valuable  staples  of  this  state  are 
large  quantities  of  beef,  pork,  butter,  cheese,  sugar, 
wool,  tobacco,  and  hemp. 

AGRICULTURE. 

There  were  in  this  state. in  1855  over  6,000,000  acres 
of  land  improved,  and  about  9,000,000  acres  unim- 
proved land  in  farms.  Cash  value  of  the  farms,  about 
$150,000,000.  Value  of  implements  and  machinery 
attached  thereto,  $7,000,000.  Value  of  live  stock, 
horses,  oxen,  cows,  &c.,  $25,000,000. 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  87 

The  wheat  crop  last  year  was  15,000,000  bushels. 
Rye,  149,897.  Buckwheat,  200,000.  Indian  corn, 
73,950,000.  Oats,  about  7,000,000.  Barley,  about 
50,000.  Potatoes,  over  2,000,000.  Sweet  potatoes, 
over  2,000,000.  Value  of  fruit  produced,  1400,000. 
Value  of  produce  of  market  gardens,  $ 75,000.  Pounds 
of  butter  made,  about  14,000.  Cheese,  about  700,000. 
Maple  sugar,  3,000,000  pounds.  Molasses,  200,000  gal- 
lons. Wool  produced,  about  3,000,000  pounds.  Flax, 
about  300,000  pounds.  Hops,  about  100,000  pounds. 
Tobacco,  1,500,000  pounds.  Hay,  413,000  tons. 
There  were  made  15,000  gallons  of  wine,  sparkling: 
Catawba,  &c. 

t      r*ft      ';t&<^      •",,'..  f/";';^,  ;;--:••  jVi' '     ' 
INTERNAL  IMPROVEMENTS. 

The  Wabash  and  Erie  Canal,  187  miles  in  length,, 
connecting  the  navigable  waters  of  the  River  Wabash 
with  those  of  Lake  Erie,  is  the  most  important  enter- 
prise of  the  kind  in  which  this  state  has  been  con- 
cerned. Nearly  100  miles  of  its  extent  are  in  Indiana, 
and  the  residue  in  Ohio.  The  whole  was  completed 
in  1843.  The  Whitewater  Canal,  a  work  of  much  less 
magnitude,  is  partially  completed,  and  several  additions* 
are  contemplated.  A  railroad,  commencing  at  Indianr 
apolis,  connects  the  capital  with  three  or  four  differ- 
ent points  on  the  Ohio,  a  distance  of  about  100  miles. 
From  the  same  point  of  beginning,  another  road,  partly 
macadamized,  extends  northwardly  to  Michigan  City. 
Other  railroads  have  been  projected,  some  of  which, 
are  in  course  of  construction. 


88 


GOVERNMENT. 


The  executive  power  resides  in  a  governor  and 
lieutenant  governor,  the  latter  being  president  of  the 
Senate,  and  acting  as  governor  in  cases  of  vacancy. 
The  legislature  consists  of  two  branches,  —  Senate  and 
House  of  Representatives,  —  apportioned  to  the  coun- 
ties according  to  the  number  of  qualified  electors,  in 
such  ratio  that  the  number  of  representatives  shall 
not  be  less  than  36  nor  more  than  100.  The  Senate 
is  never  to  contain  less  than  12  nor  more  than  50 
members.  All  the  above  are  elected  by  the  people 
triennially,  except  the  representatives,  who  are  chosen 
every  year.  The  legislature  convenes  annually.  The 
chief  magistrate  cannot  hold  office  longer  than  six 
years  in  any  term  of  nine  years.  The  secretary  of 
state,  treasurer,  and  auditor  are  chosen  by  the  General 
Assembly  in  joint  ballot,  the  first  for  a  term  of  four 
years,  and  the  two  latter  for  three  years. 

EDUCATION. 

Attention  to  this  important  interest  has  been  con- 
siderably awakened  within  a  few  years.  A  common 
school  fund,  to  be  derived  from  various  sources,  was 
founded  by  a  law  of  the  state  in  1849,  at  which  time 
the  several  funds  set  apart  for  the  purpose  were  valued 
-at  upwards  of  $700,000.  By  the  census  of  1840,  there 
were  within  the  state  over  38,000  white  persons,  above 
the  age  of  20  years,  who  could  neither  read  nor  write. 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  89 

Asylums  for  the  blind,  the  deaf  and  dumb,  and  the 
insane,  have  been  established.  There  are  several  col- 
leges, and  numerous  academies,  in  various  parts  of  the 
state.  The  names  and  locations  are  as  follows:  In- 
diana State  University  at  Bloomington,  Hanover  Col- 
lege at  Hanover,  Wabash  College  at  Crawfordsville, 
Indiana  Asbury  University  at  Greencastle,  University 
of  Notre  Dame  at  South  Bend,  Hartsville  University 
at  Hartsville,  Indiana  Theological  Seminary  at  Hano- 
ver, Ecclesiastical  Seminary  at  Yincennes,  Indiana 
Medical  College  at  Laporte,  Indiana  Central  Medical 
College  at  Indianapolis,  Indiana  State  University  Law 
School  at  Bloomington,  and  Indiana  Asbury  University 
Law  School  at  Greencastle,  the  whole  having,  in  1850, 
1069  students.  There  were  also  131  academies,  6185 
pupils ;  4822  schools,  161,500  scholars ;  151  libraries, 
aggregate  number  of  volumes  68,403.  School  fund 
(productive  and  unproductive,)  $4,998,000.  Present 
available  annual  revenue,  $159,501.  There  is  an  in- 
stitution for  the  education  of  the  blind  at  Indianapolis, 
an  institution  for  the  education  of  the  deaf  and  dumb 
near  Indianapolis,  and  also  a  hospital  for  the  insane. 
The  state  prison  is  at  Jeffersonville. 

RELIGIOUS   STATISTICS. 

In  modes   of  faith  there   is   much  diversity.     The 

most  numerous  classes  of  Christians  are  Methodists, 

Presbyterians,  and  Baptists ;   there  are  also  consider- 

.  able    numbers    of   Lutherans,   Episcopalians,  Roman 

8* 


90         THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

Catholics,  and  Friends.  There  were,  in  the  state,  in 
1850,  428  Baptist  churches,  187  Christian,  2  Congre- 
gational, 5  Dutch  Reformed,  24  Episcopal,  10  Free, 
89  Friends,  5  German  Reformed,  63  Lutheran,  778 
Methodist,  57  Moravian,  282  Presbyterian,  63  Roman . 
Catholic,  5  Tunker,  5  Union,  1  Unitarian,  15  Univer- 
salist,  and  13  other  sects,  the  whole  having  2032 
churches  ;  total  value  of  church  property,  $1,529,585. 

POPULATION. 

The  population  of  Indiana,  since  the  year  1825,  has 
increased  with  unexampled  rapidity.  At  that  date  the 
number  of  inhabitants  was  estimated  at  185,000  ;  1850, 
988,416  ;  1855,  about  1,200,000.  Among  the  causes 
which  have  conduced  to  attract  settlers  thither,  the 
extraordinary  fertility  of  the  soil,  the  low  price  of 
lands,  the  facilities  for  inland  water  communication, 
and  the  healthful  climate,  are*  doubtless  among  the 
most  prominent. 

INDIANAPOLIS. 

Capital  of  the  State  of  Indiana,  and  seat  of  justice 
for  Marion  county.  It  is  situated  very  near  the  geo- 
graphical centre  of  the  state,  on  the  east  side  of  the 
west  fork  of  White  River,  which  is  navigable,  except 
at  low  water,  for  steamboats  from  the  Ohio  and  Wabash 
Rivers  to  this  place.  The  ground  on  which  it  is  built, 
together  with  the  suburbs,  embracing,  all  together,  four  < 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  91 

sections  of  land,  according  to  the  government  surveys, 
was  secured  to  the  State  of  Indiana  by  a  compact  with 
the  United  States,  in  1820,  when  it  was  covered  with  a 
dense  forest,  as  a  permanent  seat  of  government.  In 
the  spring  of  1821  the  town  was  laid  out  and  surveyed 
by  commissioners  appointed  for  that  purpose.  The 
original  plat  of  the  town,  which  is  on  an  extended 
plain,  was  a  mile  square  ;  but  it  has  since  been  extend- 
ed in  different  directions  beyond  these  limits.  It  was 
laid  out  into  regular  four-acre  squares,  each  to  contain 
12  lots ;  and  these  squares  were  divided  through  the 
middle  by  alleys,  from  east  to  west,  30  feet  wide,  and 
from  north  to  south  15  feet  wide.  The  streets,  in  gen- 
eral, were  laid  out  90  feet  in  width.  Washington 
Street,  which  passes  through  the  centre,  and  is  the 
great  business  street,  is  120  feet  in  width.  Through 
this  street  the  great  national  road  passes.  Near  the 
centre  of  the  town  a  square  has  been  appropriated,  as 
a  site  for  the  mansion  of  the  governor  of  the  state. 
In  the  centre  of  this  square  stands  the  Governor's 
House,  on  ground  slightly  elevated,  60  feet  square, 
and  having  four  elegant  fronts.  A  circular  street,  80 
feet  wide,  encompasses  this  ^enclosure,  and  four  streets 
extend  from  it  diagonally,  towards  the  four  corners  of 
the  city.  The  streets,  with  the  exception  of  these  four, 
all  intersect  each  other  at  right  angles.  They  bear  the 
names  of  the  different  states  of  the  Union. 

The  State  House  at  Indianapolis  is  beautifully  lo- 
cated, in  the  centre  of  one  of  the  40  acre  squares, 
handsomely  laid  out  and  enclosed.  It  is  one  of  the 


92         THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

most  splendid  buildings  in  the  west.  It  is  180  feet 
long,  80  feet  wide,  and  40  feet  high,  to  the  top  of  the 
cornice,  and  is  surmounted  with  a  handsome  dome. 
It  is  on  the  model  of  the  Parthenon  at  Athens,  with 
the  omission  of  the  columns  on  the  sides ;  for  wfcich 
pilasters,  13  in  number,  are  substituted.  On  each 
front  there  is  a  beautiful  portico,  with  10  Doric  col- 
umns. The  two  halls  for  the  legislature  are  in  the 
second  story,  to  which  the  entrance  is  through  a  hall 
and  rotunda  in  the  centre.  The  Court  House,  which 
was  formerly  occupied  as  the  State  House,  is  also  a 
handsome  building.  Some  of  the  church  edifices  are 
large  and  of  fine  appearance. 

Indianapolis  is  the  centre  of  a  number  of  stage 
routes  from  different  sections  of  the  west,  and  is  fast 
becoming  a  place  of  extensive  business.  It  is  connect- 
ed by  railroad  with  Madison,  on  the  Ohio  River,  a  dis- 
tance of  86  miles ;  being  by  this  route  about  150  miles 
from  Cincinnati,  and  about  the  same  distance  from 
Louisville,  Kentucky.  The  railroad  will  soon  be  com- 
pleted to  connect  it  with  Peru,  on  the  Wabash  and  Erie 
Canal.  Population,  1850,  8091 ;  in  1855, 14,000. 

NEW  ALBANY. 

City,  and  seat  of  justice  of  Floyd  County.  126 
miles  south  by  east  from  Indianapolis.  Situated  on 
the  north  bank  of  the  Ohio  River,  about  two  miles  be- 
low the  foot  of  the  falls  in  that  river,  at  Louisville. 
This  is  one  of  the  largest  places  in  the  state.  It  is  laid 


THE  GREAT   WEST.  93 

out  with  entire  regularity,  having  six  streets  parallel 
with  the  river,  nearly  east  and  west,  and  eleven  run- 
ning back  from  the  river,  intersecting  them  at  right 
angles.  It  has  churches  of  the  Presbyterian,  Episco- 
pal^  Methodist,  Baptist,  Campbellite  Baptist,  and  Ro- 
man Catholic  denominations.  There  are  a  male  and  a 
female  seminary,  a  lyceum,  and  other  excellent  pro- 
visions for  the  education  of  the  yoiing.  A  donation 
of  $5000  was  made  by  the  original  proprietors  to  con- 
stitute a  fund  for  the  support  of  a  public  school.  There 
are  several  ship  yards  at  New  Albany,  in  which  a  num- 
ber of  steamboats  are  built  annually,  and  a  large 
business  is  done  in  various  branches  of  manufacture. 
Population  in  1840,  4226  ;  in  1850, 10,000  ;  in  1855, 
15,000. 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  95 


ILLINOIS. 

THIS  comparatively' young  member  of  the  American 
Union  was,  nevertheless,  partially  settled,  by  civilized 
adventurers,  as  early  as  the  year  1673,  A  party  of. 
enterprising  Frenchmen  from  Canada  accompanied  M. 
De  la  Salle  in  his  second  exploration  of  the  country,  in 
the  above  year,  when  in  search  of  the  River  Mississippi, 
and  founded  the  villages  of  Kaskaskias  and  Cahokia. 
These  settlements  continued  to  flourish  for  some  years ; 
but  the  people,  by  constant  intercourse  with  the  sur- 
rounding savages,  gradually  reduced  themselves,  to  a 
semi-barbarous  condition,  and  for  a  long  period  their 
numbers  were  but  little  augmented  by  immigration. 
By  the  treaty  of  peace  between  the  French  and  Eng- 
lish, in  1763,  the  Illinois  country,  together  with  Canada, 
'  was  ceded  by  the  former  to  the  latter,  who  took  formal 
possession  two  years  afterwards.  It  remained  in  their 
hands,  under  several  successive  military  governors, 
until  1778  ;  in  which  year  a  body  of  Virginia  troops, 
commanded  by  General  Clarke,  penetrated  the  country, 
and  subdued  all  the  fortified  places.  In  the  same  year, 
a  county  called  Illinois  was  organized  by  the  legislature, 
and  placed  under  the  care  of  a  deputy  governor.  The 
country  had  been  considered,  hitherto,  as  a  part  of  the 
territory  included  in  the  charter  of  Virginia  ;  and  the 
claim  founded  thereon  was  recognized  by  the  treaty  of 


96        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

1783.  Yiginia,  however,  ceded  it  to  the  United  States, 
four  years  afterwards,  when  it  constituted  a  section  of 
the  "  North-west  Territory,"  so  called.  In  1800,  it 
received  a  separate  organization  and  a  territorial  gov- 
ernment, in  conjunction  with,  and  under  the  name  of, 
Indiana.  Another  division  took  place  in  1809,  when 
the  distinct  Territories  of  Indiana  and  Illinois  were 
formed  ;  both  of  which  were  subsequently  admitted 
into  the  Union  as  independent  states  —  the  former  in 
1816,  and  the  latter  in  1818.  The  name  of  the  state 
is  derived  from  that  of  its  great  central  river  —  an  ab- 
original appellation,  signifying  the  River  of  Men. 

BOUNDARIES  AND  EXTENT. 

The  state  is  bounded  north  by  Wisconsin ;  east  by 
the  southern  portion  of  Lake  Michigan,  by  the  State 
of  Indiana,  and  by  the  Ohio  River,  dividing  it  from 
Kentucky  also  on  the  south ;  and  west  by  the  Missis- 
sippi, which  separates  it  from  the  States  of  Missouri 
and  Iowa.  Its  extreme  length  is  some  380  miles,  ex- 
tending from  37°  to  42J0  north  latitude.  Its  breadth 
varies  from  about  145  to  220  miles,  being  widest  in  the 
centre,  and  narrowest  at  the  northern  and  southern 
points.  Its  utmost  reach  of  longitude  is  4  degrees, 
viz.,  from  87°  to  91°,  west  from  Greenwich.  Its  area 
is  computed  at  55,400  square  miles,  of  which  near 
50,000  are  believed  to  be  well  adapted  to  agricultural 
purposes. 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  97 

RIVERS. 

The  Illinois  is  the  largest  river  in  the  state.  Fox 
and  Des  Plaines  Rivers,  its  two  largest  branches  from 
the  north,  rise  in  Wisconsin,  and  with  the  Kankakee 
River  from  Indiana,  form  the  Illinois,  which,  after  a 
course  of  400  miles,  enters  the  Mississippi  twenty  miles 
above  the  Missouri.  It  is  navigable  a  distance  of  about 
250  miles.  Rock  River  rises  in  Wisconsin,  and  after  a 
course  of  300  miles,  mostly  in  Illinois,  empties  into  the 
Mississippi.  The  Kaskaskia  rises  near  the  middle  of 
the  state,  and  after  a  south-westerly  course  of  250 
miles,  enters  the  Mississippi  63  miles  below  the  Mis- 
souri. It  is  navigable  for  boats  150  miles.  The  Wa- 
bash  forms  a  part  of  the  east  boundary.  The  Little 
Wabash,  after  a  course  of  130  miles,  enters  the  Wabash 
a  little  above  its  junction  with  the  Ohio.  Peoria  Lake, 
through  which  the  Illinois  River  flows,  about  150  miles 
from  its  mouth,  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water  twenty 
miles  long  and  two  broad. 

CLIMATE. 

In  general,  the  climate  of  Illinois,  in  its  influence 
upon  health,  does  not  differ  materially  from  that  of 
the  other  states,  lying  within  the  same  parallels,  east 
of  the  Alleghany  ridge.  It  furthermore  enjoys  the  ad- 
vantage of  exemption  from  annoying  easterly  winds, 
although  the  prairie  breezes  are  often  severely  cold. 
The  temperature,  ordinarily,  is  much  like  that  of  Ohio 
9 


98          THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

and  Michigan  during  the  respective  seasons.  The 
length  of  the  winter  is  usually  somewhat  less  than 
three  months.  Snow  seldom  falls  to  a  great  depth,  or 
continues  upon  the  earth  many  days  in  succession  ; 
and  the  ground  is  commonly  free  from  frost  throughout 
half  the  winter.  The  early  spring  months  are  rainy 
and  unpleasant ;  but  they  are  soon  succeeded  by  a 
milder  season,  a  warm  and  cheering  summer,  with  an 
invigorating  atmosphere  ;  and,  finally,  "  the  year  is 
crowned  "  by  a  delightful  autumn  of  some  months' 
duration,  rarely  disturbed  by  a  cloudy  day  or  a  stormy 
hour. 

SURFACE,    SOIL,   &c. 

There  are  no  lofty  mountains  in  this  state,  although 
at  its  northern  and  southern  extremes  the  land  is  con- 
siderably elevated,  and  occasionally  broken.  In  gen- 
eral, the  surface  is  level,  or  slightly  undulating,  about 
two  thirds  of  the  whole  consisting  of  immense  prairies, 
clothed  luxuriantly  with  grass,  herbage,  delicious  straw- 
berries, and  other  wild  berries,  and  resplendent  with 
myriads  of  indigenous  flowers,  flourishing  in  all  the 
beauty  of  "  nature  unadorned."  No  impenetrable 
forests  encumber  these  vast  tracts,  although  isolated 
patches  of  woodland,  some  of  them  covering  many 
acres,  are  frequently  found  in  their  midst.  In  some 
quarters  of  the  state  timber  is  sufficiently  abundant ; 
in  others  there  is  a  deficiency.  The  most  common  de- 
scriptions are  the  oak,  hickory,  maple,  elm,  ash,  locust, 
beech,  poplar,  sycamore,  and  various  other  woods.  The 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  99 

soil  is  almost  invariably  fertile,  often  of  the  finest  and 
richest  quality,  to  a  great  depth.  The  products  of  the 
earth  are  of  corresponding  value  and  amount.  Every 
variety  of  grain,  and  of  edible  vegetables,  together  with 
hemp,  flax,  cotton,  and  tobacco,  are  cultivated  with  ex-y 
traordinary  success.  All  the  fruits  common,  to  the 
temperate  latitudes  are  produced  in  abundance  :  grapes, 
especially,  natives  of  the  soil,  are  remarkably  plentiful 
in  most  parts  of  the  state,  and  of  fine  quality,  capable 
of  yielding  excellent  wines.  The  fecundity  of  the 
land,  and  the  generous  returns  with  which  it  rewards 
even  the  moderate  labors  of  the  husbandman,  may  be 
inferred  from  the  fact  that  in  almost  all  parts  of  the 
state  an  average  crop,  per  acre,  can  be  obtained,  of 
fifty  bushels  of  Indian  corn  —  one  of  its  important 
staples  ;  and  instances  are  frequent  where  the  product 
reaches  75  or  a  100  bushels. 

AGRICULTURE. 

There  were  in  this  state,  in  1855,  6,000,000  acres  of 
land  unproved,  and  7,000,000  acres  of  land  unim- 
proved in  farms.  Cash  value  of  the  farms  over  $100,- 
000,000.  Value  of  live  stock,  horses,  cows,  oxen,  &c., 
about  125,000,000.  The  wheat  crop  of  1855  was 
20,000,000  bushels  ;  rye,  115,000  ;  Indian  corn,  180,- 
000,000;  oats,  13,000,000;  barley,  112,000 ;  buckwheat, 
200,000  ;  peas  and  beans,  90,000  5  potatoes,  3,000,000  ; 
sweet  potatoes,  200,000.  Yalue  of  fruit  produced, 
$500,000.  Produce  of  market  gardens,  $133,000. 


100 


Pounds  of  butter  made,  14,000,000 ;  cheese,  1,500,000 ; 
maple  sugar,  250,000  ;  molasses,  9000  gallons ;  wool 
produced,  3,000,000  pounds ;  flax,  175,000  pounds ; 
tobacco,  9000  pounds  ;  hay,  7000  tons. 

INTERNAL  IMPROVEMENTS. 

The  means  of  internal  communication  in  Illinois, 
except  in  one  or  two  favored  localities,  are  as  yet  very 
limited.  Some  of  her  interior  rivers  are  navigable, 
and  a  cordon  of  navigable  water  almost  insulates  the 
state ;  but  until  access  to  these  be  facilitated  by  rail- 
roads, their  use  to  commerce  must  be  comparatively 
small.  Nevertheless,  there  are  few  ports  that  equal 
Chicago  in  its  commerce,  and  Alton,  on  the  Mississippi, 
is  fast  rising  into  importance  ;  nor  is  Galena  to  Be  left 
unnamed  in  the  list  of  commercial  places.  At  these 
ports,  as  well  as  those  on  the  Illinois  River  and  Canal, 
a  vast  amount  of  business  is  transacted  —  that  of  Chi- 
cago with  the  east,  and  that  of  Galena,  Alton,  <fec., 
chiefly  with  the  south.  The  interests  of  the  two  sec- 
tions are  partially  blended  by  the  canal,  which  opens 
the  lakes  to  the  south  and  west,  and  will  be  complete- 
ly united  when  the  vast  system  of  railroads  in  course 
of  construction  is  brought  into  action.  The  length  of 
railroad  now  in  operation  within  the  state  is  287  miles ; 
the  length  in  progress  is  1822  miles ;  and  the  length 
projected  and  surveyed  about  600  miles.  The  princi- 
pal points  from  and  to  which  the  several  lines  extend 
are,  Chicago,  where  at  least  seven  lines  centre ;  Alton, 


THE   GREAT  WEST.  101 

which  is  the  terminus  of  three  lines  ;  Galena,  which  is 
connected  with  Chicago  on  the  east,  and  Cairo  on  the 
south ;  Cairo,  where  the  great  Central  Railroad  con- 
nects with  the  Mobile  and  Ohio  Railroad  ;  Rock  Island, 
the  west  terminus  of  the  Chicago  and  Rock  Island 
Railroad  ;  and  on  the  Indiana  line,  Vincennes,  Terre 
Haute,  &c.,  from  which  latter  places  the  principal  east 
and  west  lines  pass,  uniting  the  system  of  Illinois  with 
those  of  Indiana,  Ohio,  &c.  All  the  lines  referred  to 
will  be  completed  within  the  next  three  years,  and  by 
that  time  Illinois  will  have  fairly  entered  upon  that 
great  commercial  destiny  that  awaits  her  career. 

GOVERNMENT. 

The  chief  magistrate  is  chosen  for  four  years,  by  the 
people,  viva  voce,  and  cannot  serve  two  terms  in  succes- 
sion. The  lieutenant  governor  (who  is,  ex  qfficio,  presi- 
dent of  the  Senate)  and  the  senators  are  also  elected 
quadrennially.  The  members  of  the  House  of  Repre- 
sentatives are  elected  for  two  years.  The  popular  elec- 
tions and  the  legislative  sessions  are  held  biennially. 
The  Senate  cannot  consist  of  less  than  one  third,  nor  more 
than  one  half,  the  number  composing  the  other  branch. 
All  white  males  above  the  age  of  21  years,  who  have 
resided  six  months  within  the  state,  are  qualified  voters. 
Slavery  is  prohibited  by  the  constitution  —  to  amend 
which  instrument  a  convention  must  be  called.  Elec- 
tions are  decided  by  a  plurality  of  votes. 
9* 


102  THE  GAEDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OB 

EDUCATION. 

• 

The  act  of  admission  to  the  Union  provides  for  a 
reservation  of  one  thirty-sixth  part  of  all  the  public 
lands  for  school  purposes ;  and  section  numbered  16 
has  been  accordingly  designated  and  set  apart,  in  each 
township,  for  the  benefit  of  its  inhabitants.  A  common 
fund,  for  the  promotion  of  education  generally,  was  also 
established  by  the  United  States  government,  through 
the  annual  payment  to  the  state  of  three  per  cent,  of 
the  net  avails  of  the  public  lands  within  its  limits.  Of 
this  fund,  a  sixth  part  is  appropriated  to  the  erection 
and  support  of  a  collegiate  institution.  Other  funds, 
to  a  very  generous  extent,  have  likewise  been  provided ; 
from  all  which  sources  a  large  annual  income  is  derived. 
Yet  the  subject  of  common  schools  has  not  received 
that  degree  of  regard  and  attention  which  its  immeas- 
urable importance  demands ;  although  there  are,  in 
many  towns,  primary  schools  of  fair  character,  and 
occasionally  a  seminary  of  higher  grade.  Several  col- 
leges exist ;  but  they  are  mostly  exclusive  or  somewhat 
sectarian  in  their  organization  ;  each  of  the  following 
denominations  having  a  special  institution,  viz.,  Old 
School  Presbyterians,  New  School  Presbyterians,  Bap- 
tists, and  Methodists.  One  of  these,  at  Alton,  was 
liberally  endowed  by  Dr.  B.  Shurtleff,  of  Boston,  Massa- 
chusetts, and  bears  his  name.  There  are  a  number  of 
respectable  academies  and  literary  associations  in  va- 
rious parts  of  the  state ;  and  it  is  to  be  hoped  that 
measures  will  be  taken  to  establish  the  school  fund  of 


THE  GREAT  WEST,  .103 

the  state  on  a  basis  corresponding  to  the  liberality  of 
Congress,  and  to  the  example  set  by  Ohio  and  other 
neighboring  states. 

RELIGION. 

The  most  numerous  sect  are  the  Methodists,  includ- 
ing their  different  varieties.  Then  follow  the  Baptists 
and  Presbyterians,  with  their  several  ramifications. 
The  Episcopalians,  Lutherans,  and  Bunkers  have  each 
from  eight  to  twelve  congregations  ;  and  there  are 
small  societies  of  Roman  Catholics,  Quakers,  and  Mor- 
mons. The  proportion  of  professors  of  religion  has 
been  estimated  at  about  one  tenth*  of  the  whole  pop- 
ulation. 

POPULATION. 

During  the  thirty  years  prior  to  1840,  the  population 
of  Illinois  increased  from  12,282  to  476,183,  of  whom 
3600  were  persons  of  color.  In  1850  the  population 
was  851,470,  of  whom  5366  were  persons  of  color. 
In  1855,  population  over  1,000,000. 


The  town  of  Nauvoo  is  situated  on  the  Mississippi, 
at  the  second  rapid  below  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony. 
It  is  located  on  a  bluff,  which  is  distinguished  by  an 
easy  slope  of  great  extent.  The  plain  at  the  summit 
is  broad  enough  for  the  erection  of  an  immense  city. 
Nauvoo  was  intended  by  the  Mormons,  its  founders,  to 


104       -THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

be  a  vast  and  beautiful  city,  and  once  contained  18,000 
inhabitants.  The  Mormon  Temple  was  a  building  with- 
out a  peer  in  the  west.  It  was  128  feet  long,  88  feet 
wide,  65  feet  high  to  the  top  of  the  cornice,  and  163 
feet  to  the  top  of  the  cupola.  It  was  built  of  polished 
limestone,  which  resembled  marble,  and  its  architecture 
was  Doric.  It  could  accommodate  about  3000  persons. 
In  the  basement  of  the  Temple  was  a  large  stone  basin, 
supported  by  twelve  oxen  of  colossal  size.  In  this  font 
the  Mormons  were  baptized.  This  building  was  re- 
duced to  a  heap  of  ruins  by  an  incendiary  in  October, 
1848.  The  Mormon  troubles  furnish  a  curious  chapter 
for  the  history  of  Illinois. 

On  the  10th  of  December,  1840,  the  legislature  of 
Illinois  passed  an  act  to  incorporate  the  city  of  Nauvoo, 
and  several  acts  highly  favorable  to  the  prosperity  of 
the  Mormon  population  were  passed  in  the  course  of 
the  same  session.  But  it  seems  that  these  people,  in 
their  enthusiasm  for  their  religious  principles,  and  for 
the  glorification  of  their  prophet  and  ruler,  Joseph 
Smith,  forgot  their  duty  to  the  government  of  the 
state.  They  adopted  several  ordinances  which  vir- 
tually annulled  the  laws.  Among  these  were  the  or- 
dinances permitting  marriage  without  license,  and 
making  it  penal  for  an  officer  to  serve  process  in  Nau- 
voo, if  theNsaid  process  was  not  approved  by  the  Mor- 
mon authorities.  The  continuance  of  such  ordinances, 
and  the  practice  under  them,  at  length  aroused  the 
other  inhabitants  of  Hancock  county,  and  attracted 
the  attention  of  the  governor.  Frequent  contests  en- 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  105 

sued,  and  it  became  the  settled  purpose  of  tne  inhabit- 
ants, or  of  the  rough  spirits  among  them,  to  drive  the 
Mormons  from  the  state.  The  Temple  was  burned,  and 
soon  after  the  governor  issued  an  order  for  the  arrest 
of  Joseph  Smith  and  some  of  his  chief  followers.  Those 
personages  were  arrested  and  committed  to  jail.  '  But 
a  band  of  armed  men  were  determined  to  assert  the 
supremacy  of*  the  summary  Lynch  law,  disguised  them- 
selves, broke  open  the  jail,  seized  the  prisoners,  and 
shot  them  dead.  Not  long  after  this  terrible  demon- 
stration of  the  hostility  of  the  people,  the  Mormons 
left  their  prosperous  city  and  moved  west  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi. The  place  is  now  of  comparatively  small  im- 
portance, though  the  beautiful  site  of  the  town  and 
the  magnificent  scenery  in  the  vicinity  will  well  repay 
a  visit  from  tourists. 

CHICAGO. 

City,  lake  port,  and  shire  town  of  Cook  county,  Illinois. 
This  place  is  situated  on  the  west  shore,  and  towards 
the  south  end  of  Lake  Michigan,  at  the  point  where 
the  river  of  the  same  name  enters  the  lake.  The 
northern  and  southern  branches  of  this  river  unite 
about  three  quarters  of  a  mile  back  from  the  lake, 
forming  a  harbor  from  50  to  75  yards  wide,  and  from 
15  to  25  feet  deep.  At  its  mouth  it  spreads  out  into  a 
bay,  with  about  9  feet  depth  of  water.  The  city  is 
built  on  both  sides  of  this  bay  and  harbor,  on  a  site 
which  is  almost  as  level  as  a  floor,  but  sufficiently  ele- 


106        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR  . 

vated  to  be  secure  from  the  highest  floods.  Piers  have 
been  constructed,  extending  into  the  lake  from  both 
sides  of  the  mouth  of  the  river,  to  prevent  the  forma- 
tion of  a  bar  from  the  accumulation  of  sand.  These 
works  were  built  by  the  United  States,  and  also  the 
lighthouse,  and  the  fortification  named  Fort  Dearborn, 
which  are  upon,  a  strip  of  land  between  the  city  and 
the  lake  shore,  belonging  to  the  government. 

This  place  has  had  a  rapid  growth,  and  from  its  po- 
sition in  the  great  line  of  communication  between  the 
east  and  west,  is  destined  to  become  a  large  city.  In 
1832  it  contained  only  5  small  stores,  and  250  inhabit- 
ants. Only  4  vessels  had  arrived  during  the  year  be- 
fore. In  1836,  4  years  later,  the  arrivals  of  brigs, 
ships,  and  achooners  amounted  to  407,  besides  49 
steamboats. 

The  Illinois  and  Michigan  Canal  unites  the  head  of 
navigable  waters  in  the  Illinois  River  with  Lake  Michi- 
gan at  Chicago.  This  great  internal  improvement  was 
projected,  and  .in  part  constructed,  to  be  a  ship  canal 
for  the  largest  class  of  vessels  which  navigate  the  lakes. 
For  a  distance  of  30  miles  from  a  point  in  the  Chicago 
River,  5£  miles  west  of  the  city,  it  was  excavated, 
through  indurated  clay  and  compact  limestone,  to  the 
depth  of  from  18  to  20  feet.  Beyond  this  the  canal  is 
only  6  feet  deep.  Its  width  at  the  top  is  60  feet,  and 
its  entire  length  96£  miles,  besides  a  navigable  feeder 
of  about  4  miles,  from  Fox  River.  This  is  one  of  the 
best  constructed  works  of  the  kind  in  the  country, 
opening  an  extensive  channel  of  trade  to  the  west, 


THE   GREAT  WEST.  107 

and  establishing  an  uninterrupted  water  communica- 
tion between  the  St.  Lawrence  and  the  "Mississippi. 

Another  improvement,  still  more  important  in  its 
results  to  the  prosperity  of  Chicago,  is  that  of  the  great 
Illinois  Central  Railroad,  which  is  now  in  process  of 
construction  between  this  place  and  Cairo,  at  the 
junction  of  the  Mississippi  and  Ohio  Rivers.  This 
railroad  will  constitute  the  most  direct  and  expeditious 
channel  of  communication  between  the  North-western 
and  the  Southern  States,  and  between  the  commerce 
of  the  great  lakes  and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  Especially 
will  this  be  the  case  when  its  route  shall  be  extended, 
as  now  contemplated,  through  Mississippi  and  Alabama 
to  the  city  of  Mobile ;  for  which  extension,  as  well  as 
for  the  road  through  Illinois,  Congress  has  voted  a 
munificent  appropriation  from  the  public  lands.  Sucji 
an  important  line  of  communication,  whether  by  this 
extension  to  Mobile,  or  by  the  river,  as  at  present,  to 
New  Orleans,  open  throughout  at  all  seasons  of  the 
year,  must  bring  an  incalculable  amount  of  business 
into  Chicago,  while  it  opens  to  the  Atlantic  cities  of 
the  north  a  new  available  access  to  the  vast  resources 
of  the  western  trade. 

The  streets  of  Chicago  are  laid  out  in  straight  lines, 
intersecting  each  other  at  right  angles.  They  are  of 
good  width,  and  some  of  them  are  planked ;  stone 
pavements  not  being  used  to  any  great  extent.  The 
largest  buildings  are  of  brick.  The  place  is  well  sup- 
plied, from  the  region  about  Green  Bay,  with  pine  tim- 
ber, another  important  material  for  building ;  and  the 


108        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

transportation  of  this  valuable  description  of  lumber 
through  the 'canal  into  the  northern  parts  of  Illinois 
and  other  sections  of  the  west,  where  it  is  a  desider- 
atum, makes  a  profitable  part  of  the  business  of  Chi- 
cago. The  city  is  supplied  with  water  by  an  aqueduct 
from  the  lake.  It  has  six  or  seven  churches,  some  of 
which  are  fine  edifices,  situated  on  a  public  square. 
Some  of  the  public  houses  are  extensive  establishments, 
affording  accommodations  equal  to  the  best  hotels  in 
our  eastern  cities. 

Chicago  intends  to  develop  her  resources,  and  con- 
test the  palm  of  superiority  over  her  sister  cities  as  the 
leading  commercial  emporium  of  the  Western  States. 
The  amount  of  building  done  in  1855  figures  to 
$2,500,000,  while  at  the  present  time  immense  ware- 
houses and  extensive  granite  depots  are  springing  up 
in  every  direction,  and  innumerable  other  improve- 
ments are  being  made,  the  ultimate  cost  of  which  must 
far  exceed  the  gross  expenditures  of  the  previous  year. 
The  population  of  this  city  in  1850  was  28,620  ;  the 
population  in  1855  was  80,000.  The  amount  of  real 
estate  in  1850  was  assessed  at  $8,101,000.  The  pres- 
ent year  it  is  assessed  at  $34,747,000.  Most  assuredly 
these  evidences  towards  power  and  influence  indicate 
the  star  of  empire  not  slow  in  reaching  its  culminating 
point  of  grandeur  westward. 

The  waterworks  of  Chicago  are  receiving  the  ear- 
nest attention  of  its  citizens,  and  they  are  prosecuting 
the  work  to  its  completion  with  the  same  vigor  and 
enterprise  which  has  distinguished  all  their  undertak- 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  109 

ings.  The  extension  of  pipe  throughout  the  city  dur- 
ing the  past  year  has  been  76,239  feet,  or  equal  to 
lOf  miles ;  the  total  amount  of  iron  main  distributed 
in  the  city  up  to  December,  1855,  is  42  miles ;  the 
number  of  fire  hydrants  erected  during  the  past  year, 
35  ;  the  number  of  buildings  into  which  water  was 
introduced  in  1855  was  1506  ;  introduced  previously, 
2745  ;  total,  4251 ;  the  amount  of  water  pumped  from 
the  lake  into  the  reservoir,  and  from  thence  distributed 
about  the  city,  873,424,844  gallons ;  receipts  for  1855, 
$230,365  ;  expenditures  for  1855,  $190,791 ;  total  reve- 
nue in  1855  for  water  rents,  $70,181  92  ;  total  cost  of 
waterworks  up  to  December,  1855,  $650,000.  The 
present  reservoir  is  altogether  inadequate  for  the  city, 
it  being  only  sufficient  to  hold  water  for  one  night,  and 
it  takes  14  hours  to  pump  into  the  tank  sufficient  to 
last  the  remaining  10  hours.  The  commissioners  are 
now  discussing  the  expediency  of  erecting  a  new  one, 
whose  capacity  is  estimated  at  7,000,000  gallons,  while 
the  present  one  Contains  only  500,000.  It  is  to  cover 
an  area  of  275  square  feet ;  the  height  from  the  bottom 
of  the  foundation  to  the  top  of  the  basin  to  be  100  feet ; 
depth  of  basin,  23  feet.  The  walls  of  the  basin  are  to 
b£  20  feet  thick  at  the  bottom,  and  ten  feet  at  the  top. 
Cost,  $275,000.  The  report  states  that  the  revenue  for 
water  taxes  this  year  will  amount  to  $100,000. 

The  Chicago  Gas  Light  and  Coke  Company  manu- 
facture an  exceedingly  clear  and  bright  light,  which 
for  brilliancy  cannot  be  excelled.  They  have  just  com- 
pleted a  new  Retort  House,  at  an  expense  of  $22,240. 

10        IB 


110         THE  GAEDEN  OP  THE  WORLD. 

The  amount  of  stock  issued  amounts  to  $356,900,  held 
by  78  stockholders.  The  funded  debt  is  $70,000,  in 
bonds,  bearing  interest  at  the  rate  of  7  per  cent,  per 
annum.  The  following  table  shows  the  progress  made 
by  the  company :  — 

Date.          Consumers.  Burners.  Street  lamps.    Miles  pipe. 

112  5 

146  7 

164  7 

209  13 

380  20 

476  23 

Up  to  the  present  time  the  total  outlay  is  $227,361. 

The  official  statistics  of  the  loss  of  property  on  the 
lakes,  just  compiled,  prove  them  to  be  enormous. 
Total  loss  in  1855,  $2,821,529;  total  loss  in  1854, 
$2,187,825  ;  increase  in  1855,  $688,704.  Total  loss  of 
life  in  1855,  119.  603  disasters  occurred  to  vessels ; 
and  33  schooners,  1  tug,  6  barks,  6  brigs,  3  steamers, 
making  a  total  of  58,  have  gone  down  in  the  dark,  deep 
waters  during  the  year. 


1850 

198 

1447 

1851 

1852 

327 
540 

3055 
4794 

1853 

840 

7522 

1854 

1855 

1398 
1964 

12,398 
18,760 

112        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OB 


MICHIGAN. 

THIS  is  one  of  those  members  of  the  American 
Union  which  were  formerly  comprised  in  the  "  North- 
west Territory."  In  the  year  1640,  it  was  partially 
explored  by  a  few  French  traders  from  Canada ;  and 
the  first  settlement  was  formed  at  Detroit  in  1670. 
By  the  peace  between  France  and  England,  in  1763, 
the  latter  obtained  possession  of  the  territory,  and,  at 
the  termination  of  the  revolutionary  war,  ceded  it  to 
the  United  States,  retaining  control  of  Detroit,  how- 
ever, until  1796.  It  was  organized  as  a  territory  of 
the  United  States  in  1805  ;  but,  in  the  course  of  the 
war  of  1812,  again  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  British, 
from  whom  it  was  recovered,  in  a  short  period,  by  the 
American  forces  under  General  Harrison.  In  1836  it 
was  admitted  into  the  Union  as  an  independent  state. 

BOUNDARIES  AND   EXTENT. 

Bordered  on  the  northern  and  eastern  fronts  by  two 
of  the  great  lakes,  and  parted  near  its  centre  by 
another,  the  land  surface  exhibits  two  distinct  penin- 
sulas—  the  base  of  one  lying  adjacent  to  Ohio  and 
Indiana  on  the  south,  and  that  of  the  other  com- 
mencing at  the '  boundary  of  Wisconsin  on  the  south- 
west. The  main  peninsula,  known  as  Michigan  proper, 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  113 

is  bounded  north  by  the  waters  of  Lakes  Huron  and 
Michigan  ;  east  by  Lakes  Huron  and  St.  Clair,  and  by 
a  portion  of  Lake  Erie,  with  the  intermediate  straits 
or  rivers ;  south  by  the  States  of  Ohio  and  Indiana ; 
and  west  by  Lake  Michigan.  The  northern  or  upper 
peninsula  is  bounded  north  by  Lake  Superior ;  east 
and  south-east  by  Lake  Huron  and  the  waters  there- 
with connected  ;  south  by  Lake  Michigan ;  and  south- 
west by  the  Menomonee  and  Montreal  Rivers,  which 
separate  it  from  Wisconsin.  The  southern  peninsula 
is  282  miles  long,  "with  an  average  breadth  of  140  ;  the 
length  of  the  northern  is  824  miles,  and  its  mean  width 
60.  The  whole  area  of  the  state,  including  some 
36,300  square  miles  of  water  surface,  comprises  about 
92,500  square  miles.  Its  geographical  position  is  be- 
tween 41°  80'  and  47°  20'  north  latitude,  and  extends 
from  82°  25'  to  90°  30'  west  longitude. 

RIVERS  AND  LAKES. 

•  •  ^ , 

The  rivers  of  Michigan  are  in  general  comparatively 
smaller,  but  more  numerous,  having  in  the  lower  pen- 
insula a  greater  length  from  their  mouths  to  where 
they  head  than  is  commonly  observed  in  most  other 
sections  of  the  Union.  This  latter  circumstance  may, 
perhaps,  be  attributed  not  only  to  the  uniformity  of 
descent,  but  to  the  more  favorable  structure  of  the 
interior  to  furnish  them  constant  supplies.  The  De- 
troit, St.  Clair,  and  St.  Mary's  are  more  properly  called 
straits,  and  not  rivers.  They  are  tranquil,  deep,  copi- 
10* 


114        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

ous,  and  expansive  streams,  uniting  the  great  lakes, 
the  waters  of  which  they  conduct  towards  the  ocean. 
The  largest  rivers  of  the  lower  peninsula  are  the  Grand, 
Maskegon,  St.  Joseph,  and  Kalamazoo,  which  flow  into 
Lake  Michigan ;  the  Cheboygan  and  Thunder  Bay 
Rivers,  that  discharge  into  Lake  Huron,  and  the  Sagi- 
naw  into  Saginaw  Bay.  The  streams  flowing  eastward 
are  small,  owing  to  the  position  of  the  dividing  ridge, 
which  is  considerably  east  of  the  middle  of  the  penin- 
sula ;  the  largest  are  the  Raisin,  Huron,  Clinton,  and 
Rouge.  The  largest  rivers  of  the  upper  peninsula  are 
the  Montreal,  the  Great  Iron,  the  Ontonagon,  the  Hu- 
ron, the  St.  John's,  and  the  Chocolate,  which  put  into 
Lake  Superior;  and  the  Menomonee  and  Manistee, 
which  flow,  the  former  into  Green  Bay,  and  the  latter 
into  Lake  Michigan.  There  are  several  other  consid- 
erable streams,  though  of  a  smaller  grade  ;  and  these, 
with  few  exceptions,  are  lively,  pure,  and  healthy, 
supplying  mill  power,  and  draining  the  fine  agricultural 
lands  through  which  they  course. 

Michigan  is  encompassed  by  five  lakes,  four  of  which 
are  the  largest  collections  of  fresh  water  on  the  globe. 
These  are  Lake  Superior,  Lake  Michigan,  Lake  Huron, 
Lake  St.  Clair,  and  Lake  Erie,  which  are  connected  by 
the  Straits  of  Detroit,  St.  Clair,  Michilimackinac,  and 
St.  Mary.  Of  these  immense  mediterranean  waters, 
Lake  Superior  is  by  far  the  largest.  It  lies  directly 
north  of  the  upper  peninsula,  and  the  greater  part  of 
its  southern  coast  is  bordered  by  it.  Lake  Michigan 
is  the  second  in  size.  It  is  a  long,  narrow  lake,  stretch- 


THE  GREAT   WEST.  115 

ing  a  little  north-eastwardly  between  the  lower  penin- 
sula and  the  States  of  Wisconsin  and  Illinois.  The 
northern  part,  together  with  the  straits,  separate  the 
two  peninsulas  from  each  other.  Lake  Huron  is  next 
in  dimensions,  and  is  situate  on  the  north-eastern 
border  of  Lower  Michigan,  separating  it  from  Canada 
West..  The  shape  of  this  lake  is  extremely  irregular ; 
its  principal  indentations  are  Saginaw  Bay,  which  ex- 
tends down  into  the  interior,  and  two  others,  one  im- 
mediately north  of  Manito  Islands,  and  the  other 
south-east  of  them.  The  latter,  sometimes  called  the 
the  Manito  Bay  or"  Georgian  Lake,  is  very  large,  es- 
timated at  one  fourth  of  Lake  Huron.  It  empties 
through  the  Strait  St.  Glair  into  St.  Glair  Lake,  the 
smallest  of  the  five  bordering  on  Michigan  ;  and  this 
again  discharges  itself  through  Detroit  Strait  into 
Lake  Erie.  More  than  30  miles  of  this  latter  borders 
Michigan,  and  opens  to  the  state  a  free  navigation  to 
the  principal  ports  along  its  coasts  —  Buffalo,  Dunkirk, 
Erie,  Sandusky,  <fec.  Nor  is  this  state  merely  sur- 
rounded by  lakes,  but  the  interior  is  interspersed  with 
them  from  one  border  to  the  other.  The  country  in- 
deed is  literally  maculated  with  small  lakes  of  every 
form  and  size,  from  an  area  of  1  to  1000  acres ;  though, 
as  a  general  rule,  they  do  not,  perhaps,  average  500 
acres  in  extent.  They  are  sometimes  so  frequent  that 
several  of  them  may  be  seen  from  the  same  position. 
They  are  usually  very  deep,  with  gravelly  bottoms, 
waters  transparent,  and  of  a  cool  temperature  at  all 
seasons.  This  latter  fact  is  supposed  to  be  in  conse- 


116       THE  GAEDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

quence  of  springs  which  furnish  them  constant  sup- 
plies. Water  fowl  of  various  sorts  inhabit  their  shores, 
and  their  depths  are  the  domain  of  abundance  of  fish, 
tro*ut,  bass,  pike,  pickerel,  dace,  perch,  catfish,  sucker, 
bullhead,  &c.,  which  often  grow  to  an  extraordi- 
nary size.  It  is  usual  to  find  some  creek  or  rivulet 
originating  in  these  ;  but  what  is  a  singular  fact,  and 
not  easily  accounted  for,  many  of  these  bodies  of 
living  water  have  no  perceptible  outlet,  and  yet  are 
stored  with  fish.  A  lake  of  this  description,  with  its 
rich  stores  of  fish  and  game,  forms  no  unenviable  ap- 
pendage to  a  farm,  and  is  properly  appreciated.  But 
with  all  its  length  of  lake  coast,  Michigan  can  boast  of 
but  few  good  harbors ;  yet  there  are  several  that  afford 
excellent  shelter  from  the  storms  that  frequently  sweep 
over  these  great  inland  seas,  and  lash  them  into 
turmoil. 

CLIMATE. 

There  is  a  marked  dissimilarity  between  the  climates 
of  the  upper  and  lower  peninsulas  of  Michigan,  arising 
from  their  different  geographical  positions.  The  for- 
mer is  subject  to  great  extremes  of  heat  and  cold,  to 
sudden  and  severe  changes,  while  the  latter  enjoys  a 
comparatively  mild  and  uniform  temperature.  Long 
and  cold  winters,  followed  by  short  and  hot  summers, 
are  the  principal  seasons  in  the  upper  peninsula ;  for 
the  transitions  are  so  rapid  as  to  afford  but  a  brief  in- 
terval of  spring  or  autumn.  The  contrast  between  the 
two  portions  of  the  state,  in  this  respect,  is  owing, 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  117 

doubtless,  to  the  varied  influences  of  the  winds  from 
the  lakes.  The  general  adaptation  of  the  climate  to 
human  health  may  be  said  to  equal  that  of  the  central 
portions  of  Indiana  and  Illinois.  Among  the  diseases 
most  common  are  fever  and  ague,  and  other  maladies 
originating  in  malaria.  In  some  seasons,  aifections  of 
the  lungs,  of  the  bowels,  the  limbs,  <fcc.,  prevail  to 
greater  or  less  extent,  depending  upon  atmospheric 
agencies.  The  goitre,  or  swelled  neck,  is  a  disease 
peculiar  to  the  inhabitants  residing  on  the  lake  shores. 

SURFACE  AND   SOIL. 

Michigan  proper  presents  a  diversity  of  surface.  It 
is  mostly  either  level  or  slightly  swelling,  but  is  occa- 
sionally rough  and  hilly,  and  towards  the  central 
points,  between  the  eastern  and  western  shores,  is 
elevated  to  a  height  of  some  600  to  700  feet,  forming 
rugged  and  irregular  ridges.  On  the  western  side  of 
this  range  of  eminences,  the  land  slopes  gently  and 
smoothly  towards  the  lake,  but  again  rises  on  the  coast 
into  steep^  and  broken  sand  banks  and  bluffs.  The 
northern  half  of  this  peninsula  is  as  yet  but  sparsely 
peopled ;  and  its  soil  is  regarded  as  inferior  to  that  of  the 
southern  portion,  although  most  of  the  lands  in  the  inte- 
rior are  said  to  be,  in  general,  well  adapted  to  agricultu- 
ral purposes.  In  the  settled  parts,  the  soil  is  quite  pro- 
ductive, and  flax,  hemp,  and  all  the  varieties  of  grains, 
garden  vegetables,  <fec.,  are  raised  in  abundance.  The 
forests  yield  excellent  timber,  of  almost  every  descrip- 


118        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

tion  known  in  this  climate  ;  as  the  oak,  walnut,  hicko- 
ry, elm,  ash,  maple,  sycamore,  whitewood,  hackberry, 
cottonwood,  poplar,  butternut,  cherry,  &c.  There  are 
also  large  tracts  of  pine,  spruce,  and  hemlock  trees  in 
the  northerly  parts  of  the  state.  Of  the  upper  or 
northern  peninsula,  no  very  great  amount  of  knowl- 
edge has  yet  been  obtained  beyond  what  is,  in  some 
degree,  connected  with  the  recent  geological  survey  of 
this  region.  It  is  but  thinly  inhabited  by  permanent 
residents,  its  soil  promising  but  poor  remuneration  to 
the  cultivator.  Mountains,  valleys,  hills,  plains,  for- 
ests, and  rivers  variegate  the  surface.  The  most  lofty 
of  the  elevations  ascend  to  a  height  of  2000  feet ;  some 
of  the  forests  embrace  millions  of  acres  of  pines  and 
other  evergreens ;  and  a  hundred  rivers,  large  and 
small,  affording  valuable  mill  sites,  flow  from  the  up- 
lands into  the  lakes,  on  either  side  of  the  Porcupine 
Mountains,  the  grand  ridge  which  towers  as  a  sort  of 
dividing  barrier  between  Lakes  Superior  and  Michigan. 

AGRICULTURE. 

There  were  in  this  state  in  1855  over  2,000,000  acres 
of  improved  land,  and  2,500,000  acres  unimproved 
land.  Gash  value  of  the  farms,  860,000,000.  Value 
of  the  implements  and  machinery  attached  thereto, 
8,000,000.  Value  of  live  stock,  horses,  oxen,  and 
other  cattle,  $8,110,000. 

The  wheat  crop  of  1855  was  9,000,000  bushels  ,  rye, 
115,800;  Indian  corn,  8,000,000;  oats,  3,000,000; 


THE  GREAT   WEST.  119 

barley,  100,000 ;  buckwheat,  600,000  ;  peas  and  beans, 
100,000;  potatoes,  3,000,000;  sweet  potatoes,  1400 
bushels ;  products  of  the  orchard,  $150,000  ;  products 
of  the  market  gardens,  117,000 ;  pounds  of  butter  made, 
8,000,000  ;  pounds  of  cheese,  1,100,000  ;  maple  sugar, 
2,800,000  pounds;  molasses,  22,000  gallons ;  flax, 
8000  pounds ;  tobacco,  1275 ;  hay,  cut,  413,000  tons. 

INTERNAL  IMPROVEMENTS. 

This  youthful  state  has  made  rapid  advances  in  in- 
ternal communication,  although  she  has  been  provided 
by  nature  with  an  excellent  and  cheap  highway  to 
nearly  all  her  borders,  in  the  inland  seas  which  sur- 
round her.  In  January,  1853,  she  had  474  miles  of 
railroad  completed,  which  connect  Detroit  and  Monroe 
with  Chicago,  Illinois,  and  various  interior  towns  in 
Michigan.  Detroit  is  also  connected  with  Pontiac,  and 
Adrian  with  Toledo,  Ohio.  A  portion  of  the  Southern 
Railroad  leaves  Michigan  and  passes  into  Indiana, 
about  40  miles  east  of  Lake  Michigan.  A  contract  was 
entered  upon  in  1853  for  constructing  a  ship  canal 
round  the  rapids  on  St.  Mary's  River,  to  connect  Lakes 
Superior  and  Huron,  and  to  be  completed  in  1855. 
This  work,  when  in  operation,  must  add  greatly  to- 
the  commercial  importance  of  Michigan,  and  enhance 
the  value  of  the  copper,  iron,  and  lead  mines  on  the 
shores  of  Lake  Superior. 


120  THE  GARDEN   OF  THE   WORLD,   OR 

GOVERNMENT. 

The  governor,  lieutenant  governor,  and  senators  are 
elected  biennially,  and  the  representatives  annually, 
the  latter  numbering  54,  and  the  Senate  consisting  of 
18.  These  elections  are  by  the  people,  who,  by  a  late 
amendment  of  the  constitution,  elect  also  the  judges 
and  cabinet  officers.  The  sessions  of  the  legislature 
commence  annually  on  the  first  Monday  of  January, 
and  the  present  seat  of  government  is  established 
at  Lansing,  Ingham  county.  A  residence  of  only  six 
months  in  the  state,  immediately  preceding  an  election, 
confers  the  right  of  voting  on  all  white  males  who  have 
attained  their  majority.  cf\,  /•; 

EDUCATION. 

On  the  subject  of  education,  Michigan  is  largely  im- 
bued with  the  opinion  of  New  England,  (from  whence 
so  many  of  her  sons  derive  their  origin,)  that  republi- 
can government  and  common  school  education  must 
proceed  or  fall  together.  Her  school  fund,  in  1852, 
was  1575,668;  in  addition  to  which  is  a  fund  called 
the  University  Fund,  of  $100,000.  In  1850,  $42,794 
were  apportioned  among  the  schools,  and  $81,392  raised 
by  taxation  for  their  support,  besides  $46,797  raised 
for  buildings,  &c.  During  the  same  year,  132,234 
pupils  attended  the  schools,  of  whom  125,866  were 
educ'ated  from  the  public  funds.  There  is  a  state  nor- 
mal school  at  Ypsilanti  about  going  into  operation,  for 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  121 

the  education  of  teachers,  under  the  control  of  a  board 
of  six  persons  appointed  by  the  legislature.  The 
township  libraries,  in  1850,  numbered  on  their  shelves 
84,823  volumes. 

RELIGIOUS   STATISTICS. 

Of  the  religious  denominations  the  Methodists  are 
the  most  numerous.  Presbyterians,  Baptists,  Episco- 
palians, and  Roman  Catholics  constitute  the  bulk  of 
the  remainder.  There  are,  however,  a  few  congrega- 
tions of  Lutherans,  Dutch  Reformed,  Unitarians,  Uni- 
versalists,  &c. 

POPULATION. 

Michigan,  like  the  other  North-western  States,  is 
peopled  by  the  representatives  of  divers  lands  and 
races.  The  natives  consist  of  the  descendants  of  the 
aborigines,  of  the  first  French  settlers,  and  mestizoes, 
or  the  offspring  of  white  and  Indian  progenitors. 
Among  the4  foreign  population  are  immigrants  from 
Great  Britain,  Germany,  and  other  European  coun- 
tries ;  and  there  are  multitudes  of  settlers  from  New 
England,  New  York,  New  Jersey,  Pennsylvania,  Vir- 
ginia, and  Canada.  Very  few  of  the  African  race  are 
found  in  the  state.  Population  in  1810,  4762 ;  in 
1820,  8896 ;  in  1830,  31,639  ;  in  1840,  212,267 ;  in 
1850,  397,654 ;  in  1855,  480,000. 
11 


122        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

DETROIT. 

Court  House,  Wayne  county.  City  and  port  of 
entry.  '  On  the  west  side  of  Detroit  River  or  Strait,  7 
miles  below  the  outlet  of  Lake  St.  Clair,  and  18  miles 
above  Lake  Erie.  It  is  132  ^miles  east  from  Lansing, 
the  capital  of  the  state.  Population  in  1810,  770  ;  in 
1820,  1442 ;  in  1830,  2222 ;  in  1840,  9102 ;  in  1850, 
21,028  ;  in  1855,  40,000. 

The  ground  on  which  Detroit  is  built  has  a  gentle 
ascent  from  the  river  as  far  back  as  to  the  main  street, 
and  thence,  westward,  it  is  level.  The  plan  of  the  city 
is  rectangular,  extending  along  the  river  more  than  a 
mile,  and  nearly  a  mile  back.  The  principal  street 
running  through  the  most  dense  portion  of  it,  parallel 
with  the  course  of  the  river,  is  Jefferson  Avenue. 
Leading  from  the  river,  at  right  angles  with  this, 
is  Woodward  Avenue.  These  streets  are  200  feet 
wide.  There  are  several  streets  or  avenues,  which 
are  120  feet  in  width,  and  the  other  streets  are  60  feet 
wide,  generally  crossing  each  other  at  right  angles. 
There  are  several  public  squares,  the  principal  of  which 
are  the  Campus  Martius,  in  the  central  part  of  the 
city ;  and  the  Grand  Circus,  in  which  five  of  the  great 
avenues  meet.  The  wholesale  stores,  and  the  ware- 
houses for  heavy  goods,  are  mostly  located  on  Atwater 
Street,  on  the  river,  and  on  Woodbridge  Street,  between 
this  and  Jefferson  Avenue.  On  Jefferson  Avenue  are 
located  the  principal  dry  goods  and  fancy  stores,  with 
the  public  and  private  offices.  This  is  truly  an  elegant 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  123 

street,  compactly  built,  and  imposing  in  its  appearance. 
Among  the  public  buildings  deserving  of  particular 
notice  is  the  building  lately  occupied  as  the  State 
House,  built  of  brick,  having  a  handsome  Ionic  portico, 
and  a  dome  140  feet  high.  The  view  from  the  top  of 
this  building  is  at  once  extensive  and  beautiful ;  em- 
bracing, with  the  entire  city,  the  strait  above  and  be- 
low, enlivened  with  shipping  and  steamboats,  Lake  St. 
Clair,  and  a  wide  extent  of  cultivated  country  around 
the  city  and  on  the  Canada  shore.  The  City  Hall  is  a 
neat  brick  edifice,  100  feet  by  50,  which  cost  $20,000. 
The  lower  story  is  occupied  as  a  market,  and  the  upper 
for  the*  city  courts.  The  Michigan  Bank  is  a  costly 
and  beautiful  edifice  of  polished  stone,  in  the  Grecian 
style,  two  stories  high  above  the  basement.  Several 
of  the  churches  are  beautiful  buildings, 'among  which 
is. St.  Paul's,  Episcopal,  in  the  Gothic  style;  the  First 
Presbyterian  Church,  with  a  Grecian  portico  of  six 
Doric  columns ;  a  Baptist  Church  of  the  Grecian  Ionic 
order ;  and  St.  Ann's  Cathedral,  of  hewn  granite,  116 
by  60  feet,  with  two  towers  in  front,  and  surmounted 
by  an  octagonal  dome  30  feet  in  diameter  and  30  feet 
high. 

Among  the  higher  literary  institutions  of  the  city 
are  the  Historical  Society,  founded  in  1829  ;  the  State 
Literary  Institute,  founded  in  1838  ;  the  State  Medical 
Society ;  the  Young  Men's  Society  for  Moral  and  In- 
tellectual Improvement,  founded  in  1832 ;  a  Young 
Ladies'  Seminary ;  a  Young  Ladies'  Institute ;  the 
St.  Clair  Seminary  for  Young  Ladies.,  (Roman  Catho- 
lic ;)  and  several  high  schools  for  boys. 


124       THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

Detroit  is  advantageously  located  for  trade,  and  is 
fast  becoming  a  great  commercial  emporium.  The 
navigation  of  the  river  and  lake  is  open  about  eight 
months  in  the  year.  The  Michigan  Central  Railroad 
now  opens  a  direct  and  speedy  communication  through 
the  most  populous  portion  of  the  state  to  the  opposite 
side  of  the  peninsula ;  and  thence,  by  a  few  hours' 
water  passage,  to  Chicago,  Milwaukie,  and  the  far 
west.  Other  routes  of  communication  are  in  the 
process  of  construction. 

Though  the  history  of  Detroit  as  a  place  of  any  con- 
siderable population  and  trade,  is  recent,  correspond- 
ing to  that  of  the  whole  western  country,  yet  as  a  place 
of  military  importance  it  has  had  an  early  antiquity 
among  the  towns  now  belonging  to  the  United  States. 
It  was  founded  by  the  French  in  1683.  In  1760  it  fell 
into  the  hands  of  the  British.  In  1784  it  became  by 
treaty  a  possession  of  the  United  States,  which  main- 
tained a  garrison  there  from  1796  until  within  a  few 
years  past.  It  was  first  incorporated  as  a  city  in  1802. 
In  the  war  of  1812  Detroit  was  captured  by  the  British, 
and  recaptured  by  the  Americans  the  next  year.  In 
1815  it  received  a  new  charter  of  incorporation.  The 
city  has  twice  been  extensively  devastated  by  fire  ;  first 
in  1805,  when  it  was  nearly  destroyed  ;  and  afterwards 
in  1837,  when  there  was  also  a  great  destruction  of 
property.  Number  of  inhabitants  in  1855,  40,000. 


THE   GREAT  WEST.  125 

LANSING. 

Capital  of  the  state.  Situated  on  Grand  River, 
about  55  miles  north  from  Jackson,  which  is  on  the 
Michigan  Central  Railroad,  and  132  miles  west  by  north 
from  Detroit,  via  Jackson.  In  1847  the  place  upon 
which  it  stands  was  covered  with  a  thick  forest.  Now 
there  are  about  400  buildings,  including  several  large 
hotels.  Both  steam  and  water  power  are  used  for 
driving  several  flouring  mills  and  saw  mills.  The  State 
House  is  finely  situated  upon  an  eminence  about  50  feet 
above  the  river,  overlooking  the  town.  It  is  a  large 
and  handsome  edifice,  and  is  surrounded  by  an  ample 
enclosure,  to  be  tastefully  laid  out  and  ornamented. 
Many  things,  in  a  town  so  recent,  must  be  yet  rough 
and  incomplete ;  but  their  outline  is  sufficiently  de- 
veloped to  indicate  the  beauty  which  will  speedily 
adorn  the  new  capital  of  this  rich  and  enterprising 
state.  Population  in  1855,  about  3000. 
11* 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  127 


WISCONSIN. 

WISCONSIN  (or  Ouisconsin)  was  admitted  by  act  of 
Congress,  February  9,  1847,  as  an  independent  state 
of  the  American  Union.  Portions  of  its  original  terri- 
tory were  settled  by  the  French  as  early  as  1670.  It 
passed  from  French  to  British  jurisdiction  in  1763,  and 
so  remained  until  1794.  After  being  connected  with, 
and  successively  disconnected  from,  the  respective 
States  of  Ohio,  Indiana,  Illinois,  and  Michigan,  it  was 
organized  as  a  distinct  territory  of  the  United  States  in 
1836.  In  1838  it  was  further  diminished  in  size  by 
the  separation  from  its  present  south-western  border  of 
what  now  forms  the  State  of  Iowa  ;  and,  in  1849,  still 
further  lessened,  by  setting  off  the  remainder  of  the 
region  lying  west  of  the  Mississippi,  now  known  as 
Minnesota  Territory. 

BOUNDARIES  AND  EXTENT. 

The  state,  as  now  established,  extends  from  the  Il- 
linois line,  in  latitude  42°  30'  north,  to  latitude  45° 
20',  and  reaches  from  Lake  Michigan  on  the  east  to  the 
Mississippi  River  on  the  west.  Its  extreme  length, 
measured  angularly,  from  north-east  to  south-west,  is 
about  380  miles  ;  its  breadth,  from  east  to  west,  varies 
from  150  to  200  miles ;  and  its  estimated  area,  as  of- 
ficially returned,  is  53,924  square  miles. 


128        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 
RIVERS. 

The  principal  rivers  are,  the  Mississippi,  which  flows 
along  its  western  border  for  a  distance  of  275  miles. 
The  Wisconsin  has  its  entire  course  within  the  state, 
flows  centrally,  and  enters  the  Mississippi  on  its  western 
border.  It  is  navigable  to  the  portage  of  Fox  or  Nee- 
nah  River,  where  a  canal  is  being  made,  which,  when 
completed,  with  the  contemplated  improvements  of  Fox 
River,  will  make  a  navigable  communication  between 
the  Mississippi  and  the  lakes.  The  Chippewa  enters 
the  Mississippi  farther  n'orth-west,  and  is  a  large  river, 
and  St.  Croix  River  forms  a  portion  of  its  extreme 
west  boundary.  Rock  River  rises  and  flows  partly  in 
this  state.  The  other  principal  rivers  are  the  Menomi- 
nee  River  on  its  east  border,  enters  Green  Bay,  and 
the  Montreal  Lake  Superior ;  and  there  are  several 
other  small  streams  entering  Lake  Superior.  The  Mil- 
waukie,  Sheboygan,  and  others  enter  Lake  Michigan. 
The  other  most  noted  streams  are  the  Wolf,  Bad  Axe, 
and  Black  Rivers.  The  principal  lakes  within  its  bor- 
ders are  Winnebago,  Horican,  Kashkohong,  and  the 
four  lakes  in  the  south,  and  many  small  ones  in  the 
north. 

CLIMATE. 

This  thriving  state,  which  has  surpassed  every  other, 
except  California,  in  the  unexampled  rapidity  of  its 
growth,  is  the  theme  of  almost  unmingled  praise  of  the 
tourist  and  the  emigrant  from  every  part  of  Europe 


THE    GREAT  WEST.  129 

and  America.  Its  beautiful  lakes,  rolling  prairies, 
swelling  uplands,  and  "  oak  openings,"  (i.  e.,  lands 
covered  with  a  scattered  growth  of  oak,)  fertile  soil, 
its  fine  angling,  abundance  of  game,  and  healthy  cli- 
mate, tempt  thither  alike  the  permanent  settler,  the 
sportsman,  and  the  lover  of  the  picturesque.  The  cli- 
mate, though  severe,  and  the  winters  long,  is  more  reg- 
ular, and  more  free  from  those  frequent  and  unhealthy 
changes  that  prevail  farther  south.  The  lakes,  too,  exert 
a  mitigating  influence,  the  temperature  being  61°  higher 
on  the  lake  than  on  the  Mississippi  side.  The  lake  shore 
is  also  more  moist,  but  the  state  generally  is  drier  than 
in  the  same  parallels  farther  east.  From  records  kept 
between  1835  and  1845,  it  appears  the  Milwaukie 
River  was  closed  on  an  average  from  November  22  to 
March  26  ;  and  steamboats  arrived  at  Mineral  Point 
from  February  26  to  April  16,  closing  from  November 
16  to  December  4.  The  diseases  consequent  upon  clear- 
ing lands  are  less  frequent,  it  is  said,  in  this  than  other 
new  states,  owing  to  the  open  nature  of  the  country- in 
the  oak  openings.  The  number  of  deaths  in  the  year 
ending  June,  1850,  were  2884,  or  less  than  10  in  every 
thousand  persons  ;  while  Massachusetts  had  about  20. 

SURFACE  AND   SOIL. 

The  natural  feature  peculiar  to  Wisconsin  is  the 
uniformity  of  its  elevation  and  shape  of  its  surface, 
which  is  neither  mountainous,  hilly,  nor  flat,  but  gen- 
tly undulating.  The  country  west  of  Sugar  River  and 


130 


south  of  the  Wisconsin  is  somewhat  broken,  principally 
by  the  dividing  ridge  upon  which  the  road  from  Madi- 
son to  Prairie  du  Chien  passes. ,  In  this  section,  known 
as  the  Mines,  are  several  peculiar  elevations  called 
Mounds.  West  of  the  Wisconsin  River  is  a  range  of 
high  hills,  being  the  only  elevations  in  the  state  either 
deserving  or  assuming  the  dignity  of  mountains.  Tho 
south-eastern  portion  of  the  state  is  marked  by  ravines 
at  the  streams,  but  little  depressed  below  the  surround- 
ing level.  Its  prominent  features  are  the  prairie,  des- 
titute of  tree  or  shrub,  covered  only  by  a  luxuriant 
growth  of  grass,  interspersed  with  flowers  of  every 
hue ;  the  oak  opening,  the  lake,  the  woodland  on  the 
border  of 'streams,  and  the  natural  meadow.  Proceed- 
ing north,  to  the  Fox  and  Wisconsin  Rivers,  and  Green 
Bay,  the  timber  increases,  and  the  soil  gradually 
changes  from  the  vegetable  mould  of  the  prairie  to  a 
sandy  loam.  The  surface  also  becomes  somewhat  de- 
pressed and  uneven,  diversified  with  timber,  rolling 
prairie,  large  marshes,  and  extensive  swamps,  having 
an  abundant  growth  of  cranberries  and  wild  rice. 
Still  north  and  west  the  surface  becomes  more  uneven, 
and  the  streams  rapid,  affording  an  abundance  of  water 
power  for  the  manufacture  of  lumber  from  the  im- 
mense forests  of  evergreen  scarcely  surpassed  on  the 
western  continent. 

The  soil  of  the  prairie  consists  of  a  dark  brown  vege- 
table mould,  from  one  to  two  feet  in  depth,  very  mellow, 
and  entirely  destitute  of  stone  or  gravel,  and,  for  fer- 
tility and  agricultural  properties,  cannot  be  surpassed. 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  131 

The  subsoil  is  a  clayish  loam,  similar  to  the  soil  of  the 
timbered  lands,  and  is  also  suitable  for  cultivation. 
The  soil  of  the  timbered  land  is  less  rich  than  the 
prairie,  not  so  deep,  and  contains  less  carbonate  of 
lime,  which  enters  into  the  composition  of  the  latter 
in  the  proportion  of  from  20  to  40  per  cent.  The 
mining  region,  unlike  that  of  any  other  mineral  dis- 
trict, promises  a  liberal  reward,  as  well  to  the  farmer 
as  to  the  miner.  The  soil  of .  the  evergreen  district  is 
mostly  sandy,  and  not  so  rich  as  in  other  portions  of 
the  state.  It  is  nevertheless  well  adapted  to  agricul- 
ture and  grazing.  The  prairies  of  Wisconsin  are  not 
so  extensive  as  those  of  other  states,  and  are  so  skirted 
and  belted  by  timber,  that  they  are  well  adapted  to 
immediate  and  profitable  occupation.  The  openings, 
which  comprise  a  large  portion  of  the  finest  land  in  the 
state,  owe  their  present  condition  to  the  action  of  the 
annual  fires  .which  have  kept  under  all  other  forest 
growth,  except  those  varieties  of  oak  which  can  with- 
stand the  sweep  of  that  element.  The  annual  burning 
of  an  exuberant  growth  of  grasses  and  of  underbrush 
has  been  adding,  perhaps  for  ages,  to  the  productive 
power  of  the  soil,  and  preparing  it  for  the  ploughshare. 
It  is  the  great  fact,  nature  has  thus  "cleared  up"  Wis- 
consin to  the  hand  of  the  settler,  and  enriched  it  by 
yearly  burnings,  and  has  at  the  same  time  left  sufficient 
timber  on  the  ground  for  fence  and  fire  wood,  that  ex- 
plains, in  a  great  measure,  the  capacity  it  has  exhibit- 
ed, and  is  now  exhibiting,  for  rapid  settlement  and 
early  maturity.  There  is  another  fact  important  to  be 


132        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

noticed  in  this  connection.  The  low,  level  prairie,  or 
natural  meadow,  of  moderate  extent,  is  so  generally 
distributed  over  the  face  of  the  country,  that  the  settler 
on  a  fine  section  of  arable  land  finds  on  his  own  farm, 
or  in  his  immediate  neighborhood,  abundant  pasturage 
for  his  stock  in  summer  on  the  open  range  ;  and  hay 
for  the  winter  for  the  cutting  —  the  bounty  of  Nature 
supplying  his  need  in  this  behalf  till  the  cultivated 
grasses  may  be  introduced  and  become  sufficient  for 
his  use. 

AGRICULTURE. . 

There  were  in  this  state,  in  1855, 1,200,000  acres  of 
improved  land,  and  2,000,000  acres  of  unimproved 
land,  in  farms.  Cash  value  of  farms,  $30,000,000. 
Value  of  implements  and  machinery,  $2,000,000. 
Value  of  live  stock,  $5,000,000. 

The  wheat  crop  of  1855  was  11,000,000  bushels ; 
rye,  100,000  ;  corn,  2,250,000  ;  oats,  4,000,000  ;  bar- 
ley, 225,000  ;  buckwheat,  100,000 ;  peas  and  beans, 
25,000  ;  potatoes,  1,700,000  ;  sweet  potatoes,  900 
bushels.  Products  of  the  orchard,  $5500.  Products 
of  market  gardens,  $40,000. 

Pounds  of  butter  made,  4,000,000  ;  of  cheese,  425,- 
000  ;  maple  sugar,  700,000.  Molasses,  10,000  gallons. 
Pounds  of  wool  produced,  300,000  ;  tobacco,  1500  ; 
hay,  300,000  tons. 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  133 

INTERNAL    IMPROVEMENTS. 

Numerous  internal  improvements  are  in  progress. 
The  most  important  yet  undertaken  is  that  for  improv- 
ing the  navigation  of  Wisconsin  and  Fox  Rivers.  This 
work  is  prosecuted  by  authority  of  Congress,  half  a 
million  acres  of  the  public  lands  having  been  appropri- 
ated for  the  purpose.  Steamboat  navigation  between 
Lake  Michigan,  via  Green  Bay  and  the  Mississippi,  is 
secured  by  the  improvement  of  Fox  River,  and  the 
completion  of  a  canal  to  Lake  Winnebago.  A  railroad 
connects  Milwaukie  with  the  Mississippi ;  and  con- 
venient plank  roads  run  into  the  interior  from  many 
places  on  the  lake. 

By  reason  of  its  contact  with  Lake  Michigan,  and 
the  waters  thereto  adjacent,  together  with  its  extensive 
means  of  inland  navigation,  Wisconsin  enjoys  great 
commercial  facilities.  On  the  margin  of  the  above 
lake  lies  Milwaukie,  the  .most  thriving  and  populous 
town  in  the  state,  which  has  sprung  into  being  and 
importance,  almost  magically,  within  a  very  few  years, 
and  has  rapidly  become  the  centre  of  a  vast  amount  of 
trade.  Possessing  the  best  harbor  between  Green  Bay 
and  Chicago,  it  is  the  chosen  resort  of  most  of  the 
steamers  from  Buffalo  and  other  ports  on  Lake  Erie, 
thus  commanding  a  controlling  interest  in  the  entire 
business  of  the  state.  Madison,  the  capital,  is  situated 
on -a  beautiful  elevation,  midway  between  Lake  Michi- 
gan and  the  Mississippi,  with  both  of  which  it  has  di- 
12 


134        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

rect  communication  by  means  of  a  series  of  streams  on 
either  side. 

The  principal  places  in  the  state  are  Madison,  the 
capital,  Milwaukie,  Racine,  Kenosha,  Osaukee,  Green 
Bay,  Jamesville,  and  Prairie  du  Chien.  There  were  in 
January,  1854,  4  railroads  in  the  state,  with  178  miles 
of  road  finished  and  in  operation,  and  200  in  course  of 
construction;  also,  10  banks  with  a  cash  capital  of 
$600,000. 

RAILROADS  IN  WISCONSIN  IN  1856. 

Length  Fin-        In  process 

Five  roads  finished.  when  com-  ished          of  con- 

pleted.  portion,     struction. 

Milwaukie  and  Mississippi 


A\J\J 

JLV«J 

£71 

La  Crosse  and  Milwaukie,  - 

95 

55 

40 

Fond  du  Lac,    ----- 

50 

30 

20 

Milwaukie  and  Water  town, 

44 

44 

— 

Racine  and  Detroit  Road,    - 

80 

40 

40 

Wisconsin  and  Lake  Shore 

"Rnid     - 

40 

A.(\ 

^t\j 

TbU 

^  — 

Kenosha  Railroad,     -    -    - 

30 

30 

— 

Wisconsin  Central  Road,     - 

30 

10 

20 

Mineral  Point  Road,  -    -    - 

30 

30 

— 

South  Wisconsin  Road,  -    - 

50 

50 

— 

Beloit  and  Madison  Road,    - 

46 

30 

16 

695  462          233 

Other  roads  are  contemplated  in  Wisconsin,  especially 
one  to  extend  from  the  termination  of  the  Fond  du 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  185 

Lac  road  to  Lake  Superior — one  branch  at  Marquette 
and  one  at  Ontonagon ;  the  former  the  centre  of  the 
iron  district,  and  the  latter  of  the  copper  region. 

GOVERNMENT. 

Wisconsin  is  at  present  subdivided  into  29  counties^ 
The  state  government  is  vested  in  a  governor,  lieuten- 
ant governor,  Senate,  and  House  of  Representatives  y 
the  latter  to  consist  of  not  less  than  60,  nor  more  than, 
120,  members  ;  the  number  of  senators  not  to  exceed 
one  third,  nor  be  less  than  one  fourth,  of  the  number 
of  representatives.  The  latter  are  elected  by  the  peo- 
ple annually ;  the  senators  and  executive  officers  bi- 
ennially. The  annual  sessions  of  the  legislature  com- 
mence on  the  second  Thursday  of  January.  All  white 
male  citizens,  Indians  recognized  as  citizens  by  any 
United  States  law,  and  civilized  persons  of  Indian 
blood,  not  members  of  any  tribe,  are  legal  voters  after 
a  residence  of  one  year  within  the  state. 

EDUCATION. 

The  subject  of  education  has  received,  as  might  be 
expected  from  the  character  and  origin  of  the  settlers^ 
a  due  measure  of  attention.  Ample  provision  has  been 
made  by  law  for  the  establishment  of  a  college,  and 
corresponding  means  have  been  set  aside  in  every 
township  for  the  support  of  common  schools,  all  by 
dint  of  bountiful  grants  of  land.  The  value  of 


136        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

school  fund  thus  created  is  estimated  at  $2,780,912. 
Annual  proceeds,  $60,000. 


RELIGIOUS  STATISTICS. 

There  were  in  the  state,  in  1855,  49  Baptist  churches, 
4  Christian,  37  Congregational,  2  Dutch  Reformed,  19 
Episcopal,  2  Free,  20  Lutheran,  110  Methodist,  40 
Presbyterian,  64  Roman  Catholic,  1  Union,  6  Univer- 
salist,  and  11  other  sects,  the  whole  having  365  churches. 
Total  value  of  church  property,  $353,900. 

POPULATION. 

The  population  of  Wisconsin  has  multiplied  prodi- 
giously since  the  year  1830,  when  it  numbered  but 
about  4000.  In  1847  it  had  reached  over  200,000  ; 
and  the  census  of  1850  states  it  at  305,191,  including 
626  free  colored  persons.  Population  in  1855,  about 
500,000. 

MADISON. 

The  people  of  Wisconsin  may  justly  feel  a  state 
pride  in  this  capital  city.  Among  the  many  beautiful 
towns  that  are  springing  up  under  the  influence  of  the 
young  and  elastic  energy  of  western  enterprise  in  these 
North-western  States,  with  a  rapidity  of  growth  that 
seems  like  magic,  Madison  stands  preeminent  for  the 
health  and  beauty  of  its  location.  Its  magnificent  site 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  137 

and  the  delightful  panorama  of  lakes,  forest,  and  prairie 
that  environ  it,  and  which  it  overlooks,  have  called 
out  numerous  encomiums  that  read  like  exaggerations 
to  those  who  have  never  visited  the  town.  High,  how- 
ever, as  are  the  expectations  raised  respecting  its  beauty, 
by  the  many  enthusiastic  descriptions  that  have  appeared 
in  eastern  journals  and  periodicals,  we  have  never  known 
the  reality  to  disappoint  any  one.  When  these  hills  and 
slopes  are  clothed  with  the  splendor  of  June  —  when 
the  lakes  are  sparkling  in  the  sunlight,  or  mirror  the 
azure  of  the  summer  sky  upon  their  unruffled  surface, 
we  have  no  fears  that  Madison  will  fall  below  the  pre- 
conceptions of  any  reasonable  man. 

The  fame  which  it  has  acquired,  however,  as  one  of 
those  favored  spots  where  Nature  has  been  most  prodigal 
of  her  gifts  of  beauty,  has  diverted  attention,  to  some 
extent,  from  its  advantages  as  a  business  and  manu- 
facturing town.  These  should  not  be  overlooked.  It 
is  the  great  railroad  centre  of  Wisconsin.  It  is  and 
must  continue  to  be  nearly  central  in  respect  to  its 
wealth  and  population.  As  the  state  capital,  a  large 
amount  of  wealth  and  business  is  attracted  here.  As 
the  shire  town  of  the  largest  and  richest  agricultural 
county  in  the  state,  it  possesses  another  element  of 
.  prosperity  and  growth.  Its  fine  water  power,  and  the 
facility  of  communication  with  all  portions  of  the  state, 
will  render  it  an  important  manufacturing  town. 

Its  educational  advantages,  as  the  seat  of  the  munifi- 
cently endowed  University  of  Wisconsin,  its  literary 
12* 


138        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

societies  and  public  libraries,  will  attract  those  who 
regard  the  education  of  their  children  as  of  primary 
importance.  Its  salubrity  and  beauty  of  location  will 
render  it  a  popular  watering-place.  There  is  no  rival 
town  within  forty  miles  on  either  hand.  Throughout 
this  spacious  circuit  there  is  hardly  a  waste  acre  of 
land.  The  hills  are  "  tolerant  of  culture  "  to  the  top. 
The  few  marshes  are  as  valuable  as  any  portion  of  the 
land  as  natural  meadows.  The  aspect  of  the  country, 
in  consequence  of  the  prairies  and  openings,  is  older 
than  most  portions  of  New  York  and  New  England ; 
and,  as  has  been  well  said,  "  five  years  of  labor  here 
are  more  than  equal  in  their  results  to  fifty  years' 
toil  in  those  states. "  When  this  broad  domain  is  fully 
settled  and  cultivated,  its  trade  alone  would  build  up  a 
populous  city  on  the  site  of  Madison,  the  natural  cen- 
tre to  which  its  business  gravitates.  These  are  elements 
of  greatness  such  as  few  towns  in  the  west  possess,  and 
on  which  we  may  with  confidence  predicate  the  con- 
tinued growth  and  prosperity  of  Madison,  and  its 
certain  hold,  at  least,  upon  the  rank  it  has  already 
acquired  as  the  second  city  of  the  state  in  wealth  and 
population.  The  population  in  1855  was  about  5000. 


MILWAUKIE. 

Court  House,  Milwaukie  county,  situated  on  the  west- 
ern shore  of  Lake  Michigan,  95  miles  north  from 
Chicago,  and  80  miles  east  from  Madison,  the  capital 


THE   GREAT  WEST.  139 

of  the  state.  The  town  lies  on  both  sides  of  the  Mil- 
waukie  River,  which  here  runs  nearly  parallel  to  the 
shore  of  the  lake,  and  empties  into  it  just  below. 

This  place  is  the  natural  outlet  of  one  of  the  finest 
regions  for  the  production  of  cereal  grains  in  the 
United  States.  Its  growth  has  been  remarkably  rapid. 
In  1834  it  contained  only  two  log  houses.  A  census  of 
the  town  taken  in  June,  1846,  showed  a  population  of 
9508  ;  and  another  in  December,  1847,  only  18  months 
afterwards,  of  14,071.  The  population  in  1850  was 
22,137  ;  in  1855,  34,000. 

The  site  of  Milwaukie  is  eligible  in  various  respects. 
It  commences  about  a  mile  above  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  at  a  point  called  Walker's  Point,  and  extends 
from  a  mile  and  a  half  to  two  miles  up  the  river,  which 
is  sufficiently  wide  and  deep,  to  a  point  some  distance 
above  the  town,  to  accommodate  a  large  amount  of 
shipping.  At  the  head  of  this  navigable  •  portion  of 
the  river,  a  dam,  erected  by  the  Milwaukie  and  Rock 
River  Canal  Company,  for  the  purpose  of  producing  a 
slack  water  navigation  about  two  miles  farther  up  the 
stream,  throws  a  large  body  of  water  into  that  sec- 
tion of  the  canal  which  courses  into  the  town,  creating 
there  a  water  power  which  is  estimated  to  be  equal 
to  about  100  runs  of  millstones.  The  manufac- 
tories erected  on  this  canal  have  the  advantage  of 
being  also  located  on  the  bank  of  the  navigable  river, 
which  almost  washes  their  foundations  in  the  rear,  so 
that  they  may  be  approached  by  the  largest  vessels 
and  steamboats  from  the  lakes. 


140        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

The  ground  occupied  by  the  town  is  elevated  and 
uneven,  rising  from  the  river  to  the  height  of  50  to 
100  feet,  and  affording  beautiful  situations  for  resi- 
dences, commanding  a  full  view  of  the  river,  the  bay, 
the  lake,  and  the  body  of  the  town  itself. 

The  Bay  of  Milwaukie  is  an  elliptical  indentation  of 
the  lake  shore  against  the  town  of  about  three  miles  in 
depth,  and  extending  about  six  miles  between  its 
north  and  south  points  or  capes,  sufficiently  separated 
from  the  body  of  the  lake  to  protect  the  shipping  from 
the  effect  of  all  the  storms  or  gales  of  wind  except 
such  as  come  from  the  east,  which  here  seldom  occur. 
The  river  enters  this  bay  about  half  a  mile  below  its 
centre,  and  the  whole  distance  between  the  mouth  of 
the  river  and  the  commencement  of  the  town  is  occu- 
pied by  a  low,  impassable  marsh,  by  some  supposed 
once  to  have  been  a  part  of  the  bay. 

This  place,  for  one  of  such  rapid  growth,  is  finely 
built.  From  a  certain  qiiality  of  the  clay  which 
abounds  here,  the  bricks  made  from_it,  instead  of  being 
of  the  usual  red,  are  of  a  light  yellow  or  cream 
color,  which  gives  to  the  warehouses  and  solid  portions 
of  the  town,  where  this  material  is  used,  a  peculiarly 
bright  and  beautiful  appearance.  Steamboats  ply 
continually  between  this  .place  and  Buffalo,  in  the  sea- 
son of  lake  navigation,  and  also  to  connect  it  with 
Chicago  and  other  ports  south,  on  Lake  Michigan,  and 
with  the  termini  of  the  Michigan  Central  and  Southern 
Railroads.  Plank  roads  are  rapidly  extending  from 
this  point  into  the  interior ;  a  railroad  is  in  progress 
to  the  Mississippi,  and  one  is  proposed  to  Chicago. 


142        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 


IOWA. 

IOWA,  recently  a  dependency  of  the  United  States,  is 
now  an  admitted  member  of  the  Federal  Union.  Until 
1832  the  country  was  held  in  undisputed  possession  by 
its  rude  and  roaming  Indian  inhabitants,  of  whom  it 
was  then  purchased  ;  and  settlements  were  soon  there- 
after commenced  by  civilized  emigrants.  In  1838, 
having  been  set  off  from  Wisconsin,  it  was  organized 
under  a  distinct  territorial  government ;  and  in  1846 
the  territory  was  duly  elevated  to  the  position  of  a  free 
and  independent  American  state. 

BOUNDARIES    AND   EXTENT.' 

Iowa  is  bounded  north  by  the  Territory  of  Minnesota ; 
east  by  the  Mississippi  River,  which  separates  it  from 
the  States  of  Wisconsin  and  Illinois  ;  south  by  the 
State  of  Missouri ;  and  west  and  north-west  by  portions 
of  the  Territories  of  Nebraska  and  Minnesota,  from 
which  it  is  separated  by  the  Missouri  and  the  Big  Sioux 
Rivers.  The  country  lies  between  40°  30'  and  43°  30' 
north  latitude,  and  extends  from  90°  30'  to  96°  30' 
west  longitude  ;  reaching  some  200  miles  from  north 
to  south,  with  an  average  extent  of  over  220  miles  from 
east  to  west,  and  comprehending  about  51,000  square 
miles. 


THE   GREAT  WEST.  143 


y  RIVERS. 

No  state  in  the  Union  is  more  bountifully  supplied 
with  water  than  Iowa ;  being  bounded  on  the  east  by 
one  of  the  finest  rivers  in  the  world,  the  Mississippi, 
and  on  the  west  by  the  Missouri ;  the  interior  of  the 
state  being  traversed  in  every  direction  by  noble,  and 
in  many  cases  navigable,  streams .;  many  of  them  run- 
ning parallel  to  each  other,  from  12  to  20  miles  apart, 
skirted  with  timber  of  from  one  to  five  miles  in  width. 
Western  rivers  have  not  the  rapidity  of  the  New  England 
streams,  nor  the  depth  and  sluggishness  of  those  of  the 
south  ;  but  are  clear,  fresh,  and  healthy,  of  gentle  cur- 
rent, and  capable  of  furnishing  water  power  for  all 
purposes. 

The  rivers  that  are  directly  tributary  to  the  Missis- 
sippi are  the  Upper  Iowa,  Turkey,  Maquoketa,  Wapsi- 
pinnicon,  Cedar,  Iowa,  Fox,  Checaque,  (commonly 
called  Skunk,)  and  the  Des  Homes.  Those  running 
into  the  Missouri  are  Floyd's,  Little  Sioux,  Inyan  Yan- 
kee, Soldier,  Boyer,  Nishnabotna,  Big  Tarkeo,  and 
Nodaway. 

Some  of  these  streams  are  navigable  for  a  great  dis- 
tance, and  the  day  is  drawing  nigh  when  the  quiet  of 
their  banks  shall  be  broken,  and  the  shrill  whistle  of 
the  heavily-laden  steamer  reverberate  from  shore  to 
shore  —  when  many  of  these  streams  shall  have  become 
thoroughfares  for  the  transportation  of  the  rich  produc- 
tions of  this  most  fertile  and  most  prosperous  state. 
"  The  untold  powers  of  some  of  these  waters  will  soon 


144        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

be  utilized  for  mechanical  purposes  ;  and  but  a  short 
time  will  elapse  ere  the  thunder  and  clatter  of  the  ten 
thousand  wheels  of  machinery  will  break  upon  that 
solitude  which  now  echoes  only  to  the  harvest  song  or 
the  notes  of  the  sweet  warblers  of  the  forest.  Exten- 
sive works  are  already  commenced  upon  more  than  one 
of  these  rivers,  which  will  stamp  our  greatness  and  con- 
vince the  world  that '  progress  '  is  our  watchword." 

Besides  those  mentioned  are  their  tributaries  —  the 
creeks,  branches,  or  rivulets,  penetrating  every  portion 
of  the  interior  of  the  state  ;  springs  of  clear,  cold 
water  also  abound  in  all  parts  of  the  state. 

CLIMATE. 

This  state  is  located  in  the  healthiest  latitude  of  our 
continent ;  reaching  only  to  latitude  43°  30'  on  its 
northern  boundary.  Its'  winters  are  comparatively 
mild  and  pleasant,  and  its  summers  free  from  the  long 
scorching  rays  of  a  southern  sun  and  the  epidemics  so 
common  in  such  climates.  By  the  medical  journals, 
Iowa  is  ranked  as  second  only  in  point  of  health  ;  and 
no  doubt  it  will  be  first,  when  she  has  a  settled  and 
acclimated  population,  as  free  from  toil,  privations,  and 
exposure  as  other  states. 

There  is  generally  an  unbroken  winter  from  the  mid- 
dle of  November  till  January,  when  there  is  almost  in- 
variably a  "  January  thaw  ;  "  after  which  the  weather 
is  generally  mild,  and  gradually  merges  into  spring. 
The  country  is  free  from  the  sudden  changes  of  New 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  145 

England,  and  from  the  long,  drizzling  rains  and  foggy 
weather  of  portions  of  the  Middle  States.  The  storms 
are  from  the  east ;  the  showers  are  from  the  west. 

One  of  the  peculiarities  of  this  climate  is  the  dryness 
of  its  summers  and  autumns.  A  drought  often  com- 
mences in  August,  which,  witli  the  exception  of  a 
few  showers  towards  the  close  of  that  month,  continues, 
with  little  interruption,  throughout  the  fall  season. 
The  autumnal  months  are  almost  invariably  clear, 
warm,  and  dry. 

SURFACE    AND     SOIL. 

With  the  exception  of  some  high  hills  in  the  northern 
part,  the  surface  is  nowhere  mountainous,  but  consists 
of  table  lands,  prairies,  and  gently  swelling  eminences 
covered  with  timber.  Ranges  of  bluffs,  from  30  to  120 
feet  in  height,  intersected  with  ravines,  generally  ter- 
minate the  table  lands  upon  the  borders  of  rivers.  The 
soil  is  almost  universally  good,  reaching  to  a  depth  of 
18  to  24  inches  on  the  upland  prairies,  and  from  24  to 
48  inches  on  the  bottom  lands.  Constant  cultivation 
for  a  century  would  scarcely  exhaust  it.  It  produces 
every  description  of  grain  and  vegetables  suited  to  the 
climate,  and  is  peculiarly  favorable  to  the  growth  of 
fruit.  Timber  is  not  abundant,  except  in  certain  sec- 
tions, comprising  in  all  about  one  fourth  part  of  the 
state.  But  the  country  is  so  well  supplied  with  river 
navigation,  that  this  deficiency  in  other  quarters  is  not 
felt.  Among  the  indigenous  fruits  are  vast  quantities 
13 


146        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

of  plums,  grapes,  strawberries,  crab  apples,  &c.  The 
crops  of  wheat  ordinarily  amount  to  30  or  35  bushels 
per  acre ;  and  the  yield  of  corn  is  from  50  to  75  bushels. 
Wells  of  excellent  water  are  obtained  at  a  depth  of  25 
to  30  feet. 

The  future  farms  of  Iowa,  large,  level,  and  unbroken 
by  stump  or  other  obstruction,  will  afford  an  excellent 
field  for  the  introduction  of  mowing  machines,  and 
other  improved  implements  calculated  to  save  the  la- 
bor of  the  husbandman,  and  which,  in  new  countries, 
reclaimed  from  the  forest,  can  scarcely  be  employed 
until  the  first  generation  shall  have  passed  away. 

AGRICULTURE. 

There  were  in  this  state,  in  1855,  200,000  acres  of 
land,  improved  and  unimproved,  in  farms,  about  one 
fourth  of  which  was  under  cultivation.  Cash  value  of 
farms,  $41,000,000.  Yalue  of  implements  and  ma- 
chinery attached  thereto,  $1,500,000. 

Yalue  of  live  stock,  horses,  cows  and  other  cattle, 
$4,000,000. 

The  wheat  crop  of  1855  was  5,000,000  bushels; 
rye,  57,000  ;  corn,  24,000,000  ;  oats,  3,000,000  ;  bar- 
ley, 65,000 ;  buckwheat,  150,000 ;  peas  and  beans, 
10,000;  potatoes,  8000  ;  sweet  potatoes,  10,000 ;  value 
of  products  of  the  orchards,  $10,000 ;  value  of  pro- 
ducts of  the  market  gardens,  $10,500. 

Pounds  of  butter  made,  2,500,000  ;  cheese,  2,025, 
000  ;  maple  sugar,  100,000  ;  molasses,  3500  gallons. 


THE  GREAT   WEST.  147 

INTERNAL    IMPROVEMENTS. 

There  are  several  very  important  railroad  lines  pro- 
jected, some  of  which  are  partly  under  contract,  and 
others  of  which  may  not  be  built  for  years.  Three 
different  lines  have  been  explored  and  surveyed,  com- 
mencing at  Davenport,  as  follows:  — 

One  from  Davenport,  through  Muscatine,  thence 
through  the  northern  part  of  Louisa  county,  and 
through  Washington,  Keokuk,  Mahaska,  Marion,  War- 
ren, Madison,  Adair,  Adams,  and  Montgomery  coun- 
ties, to  the  Missouri  River,  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Platte. 

Another  from  Davenport,  through  Scott,  Johnson, 
Iowa,  Powesheik,  Jasper,  Polk,  Dallas,  Guthrie, 
Audubon,  and  Shelby  counties,  to  the  Missouri  River, 
in  Pottawattamie  county. 

A  third  line,  from  Muscatine,  through  Cedar  and 
Lime  counties,  to  Cedar  Rapids,  with  a  view  to  the 
further  continuation  of  the  line,  north-westwardly,  into 
the  Territory  of  Minnesota. 

These  explorations  were  made  under  the  direction 
of  Henry  Farnam,  chief  engineer ;  and  in  December, 
1852,  an  association  was  formed,  under  the  general 
laws  of  Iowa. 

The  routes  embraced  in  the  Articles  of  Association 
are,  a  line  from  Davenport,  by  way  of  Muscatine,  to 
the  southern  or  western  boundary  of  Iowa  ;  and  north- 
wardly, by  way  of  Cedar  Rapids,  up  the  Cedar  Valley 
to  the  north  line  of  the  State  of  Iowa ;  thus  combining 


148        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

in  one  organization  a  system  of  railroads  for  Central 
Iowa,  whose  eastern  terminus  shall  be  the  bridge  over 
the  Mississippi  River  at  Davenport.  Those  portions  of 
these  roads  between  Davenport  and  Iowa  City,  and 
between  Muscatine  and  Oskaloosa,  are  under  contract, 
and  will  be  ready  for  the  cars  some  time  during  the 
coming  summer.  The  line  from  Muscatine  to  Cedar 
Rapids  has  been  permanently  located,  and  that  portion 
of  it  which  forms  a  junction  with  the  Davenport  Road 
is  nearly  ready  for  the  cars  ;  so  that  Muscatine  will  be 
in  connection  with  the  main  line  to  New  York  City 
as  soon  as  the  track  is  laid  from  Davenport  to  the 
junction. 

The  chief  engineer  says  of  the  country,  "  In  No- 
vember last,  in  company  with  John  B.  Jervis,  Esq., 
consulting  engineer,  James  Archibald,  Esq.,  a  distin- 
guished engineer,  General  George  B.  Sargeant,  of 
Davenport,  and  the  Hon.  N.  B.  Judd,  of  Chicago,  I 
passed  over  the  line  from  Iowa  City  to  Fort  Des  Moines, 
and  thence  down  the  '  divide  '  between  the  Des  Moines 
and  Skunk  to  Oskaloosa,  and  from  Oskaloosa,  through 
Keokuk,  Washington,  and  Louisa  counties,  to  Musca- 
tine. The  whole  country  on  both  routes  is  one  of 
unsurpassed  beauty  and  fertility.  Since  then,  I  have 
passed  over  the  line  from  Muscatine  to  Cedar  Rapids. 
No  more  beautiful  or  productive  region  of  country 
can  be  found  in  the  Union.  There  is  literally  no  waste 
land  to  be  found,  and  the  settlements  are  such, 
that  a  railroad  would  be  immediately  productive.  The 
entire  land  on  each  of  the  routes  from  Davenport  to 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  149 

Fort  Des  Moines,  from  Muscatine  to  Oskaloosa,  and 
from  Muscatine  to  Cedar  Rapids,  has  been  all  pur- 
chased of  the  government,  and  the  State  of  Iowa  is 
settling  with  a  rapidity  unparalleled  in  the  history  of 
any  state." 

'  The  Mississippi  Bridge,  now  being  built  at  Davenport, 
connects  the  Chicago  and  Rock  Island  and  the  Mis- 
sissippi Railroads,  making  one  continuous  line,  with- 
out interruption  or  break  of  gauge,  from  Chicago  to  the 
Missouri  River.  The  people  of  Iowa,  Western  Minne- 
sota, and  those  who  are  to  cultivate  the  fertile  soil  of 
Nebraska,  will  never  consent  to  be  shut  out  from  the 
Atlantic  and  the  great  western  lakes  by  any  pretended 
obstruction  which  a  bridge  built  on  the  plan  proposed 
may  offer.  The  bridge  will  span  the  Mississippi  on  the 
Rapids,  where  the  current  is  compressed  to  a  narrow 
space,  so  that  boats,  to  strike  the  piers  on  either  side, 
would  first  have  to  surmount  rocks  which  Nature  has 
had  fixed  as  impediments  |o  navigation  for  centuries, 
and  of  which  the  proposed  improvement  of  the  Rapids 
does  not  contemplate  the  removal.  Simply  a  skeleton 
railroad  bridge,  the  draw  will  always  be  up,  save  when 
the  cars  are  actually  crossing ;  which  never  can  occur 
when  a  steamboat  is  passing,  except  by  the  grossest 
negligence.  For  the  reasons  thus  concisely  given,  we 
argue  that  this  bridge  will  prove  no  obstruction  to  the 
navigation  of  the  river. 

The  estimated  cost  of  the  before-mentioned  lines,  for 
grading  and  bridging,  track  superstructure,  equipments, 
13* 


150       THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

station  buildings,  engineering,  and  contingencies,  are 
as  follows:  — 

Average 
Division.  Dist.  Miles.  Cost.  par  Mile. 

Davenport  to  Iowa  City,       .     .  54.92  $1,516,790.00  $27,618.00 

Iowa  City  to  Fort  Des  Moines,  119.00  3,554,870.00  29,373.00 

Muscatine  to  Oskaloosa,  .     .     .  95.27  2,557,500.00  26,845.00 

Muscatine  to  Cedar  Kapids,      .  62.64  1,493,250.00  23,839.00 


Making  in  the  aggregate,      $9,122,410.00 

Several  other  railroad  lines  are  proposed,  and  in  part 
under  contract,  which  we  will  mention :  — 

The  Burlington  and  Missouri  River  •  Railroad,  being 
a  continuation  of  the  Chicago  and  Burlington  Railroad, 
passes  west,  through  the  centres  of  Henry,  Jefferson, 
Wapello,  Monroe,  Lucas,  Clarke,  Union,  Adams, 
Montgomery,  and  Mills  counties,  striking  the  Missouri 
opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Big  Platte,  or  Nebraska 
River,  some  twenty-five  miles  below  Council  Bluffs. 
This  road  is  under  contract  to  Wapello  county,  and 
the  prospects  of  an  early  completion  are  good.  Bur- 
lington has  recently  had  railroad  connection  .with 
Chicago,  "through  by  daylight." 

The  Lyons  Central  Railroad,  a  continuation  of  the 
Chicago  Air  Line  Railroad,  passes  west  from  Lyons, 
through  Clinton  and  Cedar  counties,  to  Iowa  City,  in 
Johnson  county,  where  it  connects  with  the  Missis- 
sippi and  Missouri  Railroad.  This  road  was  all  under 
contract,  and  considerable  work  done  at  different  points ; 
but  its  progress  has  been  suspended  for  some  months. 
We  understand  that  a  new  company  has  resumed  the 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  151 

enterprise,  and  are  hastening  it  to  an  early  com- 
pletion. 

The  Northern  Iowa  Railroad,  a  continuation  of  the 
Illinois  Central,  is  projected  ^rom  Dubuque  west, 
through  the  counties  of  Dubuque,  Delaware,  Bu- 
chanan, Blackhawk,  Gnmdy,  Hardin,  Webster,  Cal- 
houn,  Sac,  Ida,  and  Woodbury,  striking  the  Missouri 
at  Floyd's  Bluffs,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Big  Sioux 
River.  A  branch  of  this  road  is  also  projected,  to  run 
from  Delhi,  in  Delaware  county,  north,  through  Clay- 
ton, Fayette,  and  Winnesheik,  to  St.  Paul,  Minnesota. 

A  line  connecting  with  the  Chicago  and  Mississippi 
Railroad  (which  reaches  the  Missouri  in  Carroll 
county,  Illinois)  is  projected  to  pass  through  Jackson, 
Jones,  Linn,  Benton,  Tama,  Marshall,  Story,  Boone, 
Greene,  Carroll,  and  Crawford,  striking  the  Missouri 
in  Mahona  county. 

A  line  running  as  a  continuation  of  the  North  Mis- 
souri Railroad  enters  the  state  in  Davis  county,  passing 
through  Appanoose,  Lucas,  and  Warren,  to  Fort  Des 
Moines,  crossing  the  Burlington  and  Missouri  Railroad 
at  Chariton,  the  Muscatine  and  Platte  Yalley  Railroad 
at  Indianolo,  and  connecting  with  the  Mississippi  and 
Missouri  Railroad  at  Fort  Des  Moines.  A  portion  of 
this  road  is  under  contract,  and,  we  are  informed,  will 
be  pushed  through  as  rapidly  as  circumstances  will 
admit.  A  branch  of  this  line  leaves  Fort  Madison, 
passing  through  Lee,  Yan  Buren,  and  Davis,  connect- 
ing with  the  Northern  Missouri  and  Des  Moines  Rail- 
road in  Appanoose  county. 


152        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

The  Des  Moines  Valley  Railroad  is  to  leave  the  Mis- 
sissippi at  Keokuk,  passing  through  Lee,  Van  Buren, 
Jefferson,  Wapello,  Mahaska,  Marion,  and  Jasper,  to 
Fort  Des  Moines,  ther^  connecting  with  two  east  and 
west  lines.  This  is  considered  by  many  as  being  one 
of  the  most  important  routes,  as  the  Des  Moines  Valley, 
in  mineral  and  agricultural  productions,  is  the  richest 
valley  in  the  state. 

Another  line,  as  a  continuation  of  the  Philadelphia 
and  Fort  Wayne  Air  Line  Railroad,  to  leave  the  Mis- 
sissippi at  the  mouth  of  the  Iowa  River,  passing  through 
Louisa  and  "Washington  counties,  connecting  at  Wash- 
ington with  the  Muscatine  and  Oskaloosa  Railroad,  has 
been  proposed. 

A  preliminary  survey  has  been  made  of  a  railroad 
from  Keokuk  to  Davenport,  via  Montrose,  West  Point, 
Mount  Pleasant,  Columbus  City,  and  Muscatine ;  the 
entire  distance  being  70f  miles.  The  estimated  cost  of 
this  road,  including  furniture,  depots,  fencing,  <fec.,  is 
$1,911,934.  This  is  one  of  the  many  roads  which  will 
seek  the  bridge  at  Davenport  as  the  Mississippi 
crossing. 

We  doubt  not  that  those  railroad  lines  penetrating 
into  the  state,  which  are  continuations  of  roads  from 
the  east  and  south,  will  be  pushed  forward  to  an 
early  completion. 

The  construction  of  the  several  roads  reaching  from 

'  Chicago   towards  the   Mississippi  River  demonstrates 

that  railroads  may  be  constructed  through  a  country  of 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  153 

prairie  on  the  line  of  emigration,  and  yield  a  profit  as 
soon  and  as  far  as  opened.  The  receipts  of  the  Chicago 
and  Rock  Island  Road  from  the  10th  of  July  to  the 
10th  of  January  were  $710,688  86  ;  running  expenses 
for  the  same  time,  $440,764  86  ;  leaving  a  balance  of 
$270,894.  The  whole  number  of  passengers  passing 
over  the  road  for  the  five  months  ending  December  1, 
amounted  to  168,824 ;  total  amount  of  freight  trans- 
ported during  the  same  time,  49,734  tons. 

We  give  the  statistics  of  this  road,  because  it  was  the 
first  which  reached  the  Mississippi,  and  reliable  facts 
could  be  more  easily  obtained.  Nor  is  this  railroad  an 
exception  —  each  of  the  Chicago  and  Mississippi,  and 
the  Galena  aud  Chicago  lines,  pay  well  as  far  as 
completed. 

EDUCATION. 

A  superintendent  of  public  instruction  is  chosen  by 
the  people '  for  three  years.  A  large  school  fund  is 
secured  by  the  appropriation  of  lands  granted  by 
Congress,  escheated  estates,  and  the  percentage  allowed 
by  Congress  on  sales  of  public  lands  within  the  state. 
Common  schools  in  all  the  school  districts  are  also 
maintained  by  law  from  other  sources  of  revenue. 
There  is  also  a  large  fund  assigned  for  the  support  of  a 
university.  The  permanent  school  fund,  at  interest,  in 
1850,  amounted  to  about  $279,000. 


154        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 
RELIGIOUS  STATISTICS. 

There  were  in  this  state  in  1855,  78  Congregational 
churches  ;  ministers,  57  ;  number  of  members,  2500  ; 
number  of  meeting  houses  built,  50.  Of  the  Baptist 
denomination  there  were  105  churches  and  60  pastors ; 
number  of  members,  4100.  Of  the  Presbyterian  de- 
nomination there  were  1850  members  and  175 
churches.  Of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  denomination 
there  were  85  churches,  45  parsonages,  225  preachers, 
and  16,000  members.  Of  Roman  Catholics  there  were 
85  churches  ;  stations,  17  ;  religious  communities,  5  ; 
Catholic  academies,  4  ;  clergymen,  29*;  Catholic  popu- 
lation, 29,000. 

POPULATION. 

The  population  of  the  territory  in  1836  was  10,531 ; 
in  1840  it  was  43,017  ;  in  1850,  192,214.  The  census, 
as  returned  by  the  secretary  of  state,  taken  in  the 
spring  of  1854,  is  as  follows:  Males,  170,302;  fe- 
males, 154,900;  total  population,  325,202.  Voters, 
59,984 ;  militia,  50,284  ;  aliens,  10,373  ;  colored  males, 
258  ;  colored  females,  222  ;  blind,  27  ;  deaf  and  dumb, 
28  ;  insane,  47  ;  idiots,  7.  There  is  one  vote  to  every 
five  and  a  half  and  a  fraction  of  the  population. 

According  to  this  last  census,  the  number  of  males 
exceeds  that  of  the  females  some  16,000.  Let  the 
Yankee  girls  take  the  hint  when  they  see  these  figures. 

The  number  of  inhabitants  in  the  state  in  January, 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  155 

1855,  lias  been  estimated  at  upwards  of  500,000. 
Those  who  have  seen  and  can  realize  that  Iowa  is  the 
mouth  of  the  great  stream  of  humanity,  whose  tribu- 
taries extend  far  and  wide,  into- every  state  and  many 
nations  —  that  stream  which  is  daily  and  hourly  pour- 
ing into  this  great,  and  fertile,  and  beautiful  state  its 
hundreds  and  thousands,  cannot  but  predict  that  in  1860 
Iowa  will  be  peopled  by  more  than  a  million  of  hardy, 
energetic,  and  intelligent  inhabitants.  By  some'  this 
may  be  deemed  a  wild  speculation ;  but  we  think  we 
have  good  and  sufficient  reasons  for  placing  our 
estimate  thus. 

DAVENPORT. 

Davenport,  the  county  seat  of  Scott  county,  contains 
12,000  inhabitants,  a  greater  number  than  was  in  the 
whole  State  of  Iowa  in  1838,  and  is  delightfully  situ- 
ated on  the  west  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  with  a  bluff 
100  feet  high  skirting  its  back,  and  extending  for 
miles  up  and  down  the  river.  The  city  was  laid  out  in 
1836,  under  the  supervision  of  Alexander  W.  M'Gregor, 
Esq.,  one  of  its  oldest  inhabitants,  and  others ;  and  the 
streets,  which  are  spacious,  run  at  right  angles,  with 
an  alley  between  each.  Davenport  contains  many 
handsome  churches,  public  buildings,  commodious 
stores  and  warehouses. 

During  the  past  year  there  have  been  erected  600 
buildings,  against  400  in  1854.  The  houses  are  neat, 
and  the  cottages  on  the  bluff  are  as  elegant  as  many 


156        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

you  will  see  on  the  Hudson.  From  almost  any  of  the 
high  grounds,  back  of  Davenport,  the  scenery  is 
charming,  affording  a  beautiful  landscape  view  of  the 
windings  of  the  -river  and  the  Illinois  shore.  Oppo- 
site the  city,  on  the  Illinois  side,  is  the  thriving  city 
of  Rock  Island,  containing  a  population  of  some  8000. 
The  river  here,  dividing  these  twin  cities,  as  they  are 
called,  is  half  a  mile  wide,  connected  by  two  good 
steam  ferry  boats,  leaving  every  ten  minutes  during  the 
day ;  fare  five  cents  each  way. 

In  the  Mississippi,  opposite  the  upper  end  of  Daven- 
port, is  Rock  Island,  named  from  the  rocky  strata  upon 
which  it  stands  —  celebrated  for  the  beauty  of  its 
scenery  and  defences  against  the  incursions  of  the 
Indians.  On  the  lower  end  are  the  remains  of  Fort 
Armstrong,  now  abandoned.  This  island  is  three  miles 
long  by  an  average  width  of  three  quarters  of  a  mile. 
It  is  still  reserved  by  government,  except  a  quarter 
section  donated  to  the  late  Colonel  Davenport,  the 
former  Indian  agent.  It  would  be  valuable  for  resi- 
dences, and  yield  the  treasury  some  1500,000,  should 
the  government  ever  need  funds.  It  is  across  the  lower 
end  of  this  island  the  first  bridge  over  this  mighty  river 
is  now  being  built ;  and  when  finished,  trains  can  run 
through  from  Chicago  to  Iowa  City  by  daylight.  The 
bridge  will  be  completed  by  the  1st  May,  affording  a 
continuous  line  of  railroad  from  Jersey  City  to  Iowa 
City,  a  distance  of  over  1200  miles,  requiring  but  an 
extension  of  some  1800  miles  farther  west  to  carry  it 
into  the  Sacramento  valley,  in  California. 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  157 

In  order  to  show  the  great  rapidity  with  which  this 
part  of  Iowa  has  been  settled,  the  oldest  native  of 
Scott  county  is  a  son  of  A.  W.  M'Gregor,  Esq.,  now 
but  18  years  of  age  ;  and  yet  the  county  has  a  popula- 
tion of  20,000.  The  county  was  named  in  honor  of 
General  Scott. 

Looking  back  some  twenty-three  years,  when  this 
whole  region  of  country  bore  the  footprints  of  the 
Sacs,  Foxes,  Pottawattomies,  and  the  renowned  Black 
Hawk  and  his  band,  and  glancing  at  the  spot  where 
Davenport  now  stands,  covered  then  by  a  few  wigwams, 
and  where  now  may  be  seen  a  beautiful  and  thriving 
city,  the  mind  seems  lost  in  amazement  at  its  rapid 
growth. 

DUBUQUE. 

The  city  of  Dubuque,  one  of  the  largest  and  most 
densely  populated  in  the  state,  is  handsomely  situated 
upon  a  natural  terrace.  The  streets  run  parallel  to 
each  other,  and  owing  to  the  peculiar  soil  at  this  loca- 
tion, are  never  muddy.  This  city  is  more  compactly 
built,  and  contains  a  greater  proportion  of  fine  build- 
ings than  any  other  place  in  the  state.  Among  these 
the  Catholic  cathedral,  court  house,  and  hotels  stand 
prominent.  The  city  is  bounded  on  the  west  by  a 
range  of  high  cliffs,  from  which  the  prospect  of  the 
city  and  county  is  entrancingly  beautiful. 

Three  daily  newspapers  are  published  in  Dubuque  : 
the  "  Express  and  Herald,"  the  "  Tribune,"  and  the 
14 


158       THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

"  Observer,"  each  issuing,  besides,  a  weekly  edition. 
We  have  not  the  name  of  the  weekly  German  paper. 

The  population  of  Dubuque  county,  according  to 
the  census  of  1854,  is  16,513  ;  and  of  the  city,  accord- 
ing to  West's  statistics,  10,000.  The  number  of  build- 
ings erected  in  the  city  last  year  was  332. 

Of  the  society  in  Dubuque  we  need  not  remark  further 
than  to  state,  that  this  population  of  10,000  ably  sup- 
port eleven  churches,  one  female  seminary,  one  college, 
five  select  and  common  schools,  twenty-four  lawyers, 
and  fourteen  physicians. 

This  city,  being  the  present  terminus  of  two  important 
railroads,  must  necessarily  become  a  place  of  great 
commercial  importance. 

Good  investments  can  be  made  in  the  establishing,  at 
Dubuque,  of  manufactories  of  red  and  white  lead,. lead 
pipe,  shot,  and  sheet  lead.  Capitalists  should  investi- 
gate this  matter. 

From  the  following  statistics  the  reader  may  judge 
of  the  commercial  importance  of  the  city  of  Dubuque :  — 

Total  Tonnage.  Yalue. 

Imports  to  Dubuque  in   1853,   .     .     32,007  $2,497,123  30 

«  «  1854,  .     .     97,633  4,933,208  65 


Increase,   .     .     .     65,626  $2,436,085  35 

Exports  from  Dubuque  in  1853,  .     .       7,482  $1,006,710 

«  «  1854,  .     .     11,736  1,573,408  30 


Increase,   .     .     .  4,254  $566,698  05 

Lead  exported  in  1854,   .    .    .'.    .  4,385  $526,200 

Iron,    steel,    and  nails  exp.  in  1854,  1,200  192,000 

Flour  exported  in  1854,  .     .     .     .  •  ;.  180  1,200 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  159 

Wheat  exported  in  1854,     ....         880      .  48,000 

Corn  exported  in  1854, 385  5,555 

We  invite  the  reader's  particular  attention  to  the 
following  comparative  table  of  immigration,  for  the 
past  two  years :  — 

Crossed  the  Dubuque  Ferry  in,  1853.  1854. 

Men,  women,  and  children, 6,200  38,400 

Wagons, 2,404  4,300 

Carriages, 3,110  2,100 

Cattle, 5,506  9,518 

Sheep, .    .  300  2,708 

Hogs 520  6,630 

f 

The  immigration  to  Iowa,  in  1854,  at  this  point 
as  well  as  others,  was  very  large.  The  amonnt  of  the 
public  domain  sold  at  the  Dubuque  Land  Office,  du- 
ring the  year,  is,  cash  sales,  1,120,000  acres ;  located 
with  military  warrants,  250,000.  The  snug  sum  of 
$3,961,736  in  specie  was  exported  to  St.  Louis  from 
this  land  office  during  the  year ;  this  exceeds  the  like 
exports  of  ten  previous  years. 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  161 


MISSOURI. 

MISSOURI  is  one  of  the  Western  —  or,  at  present, 
more  properly,  one  of  the  Central  —  States  of  the 
American  Union.  It  formerly  composed  a  part  of  the 
extensive  tract,  which,  under  the  name  of  Louisiana, 
was  purchased  of  France  by  the  United  States  in  the 
year  1803.  In  the  following  year,  that  portion  of  the 
country  which  now  forms  the  State  of  Louisiana  was 
set  off  from  the  residue,  and  denominated  the  Territo- 
ry of  Orleans  ;  the  remainder  being  styled  the  District 
of  Louisiana,  until  1812,  when  the  name  was  changed 
to  the  Territory  of  Missouri.  Another  division  took 
place  about  eight  years  afterwards,  and  in  1821  the 
state  was  formed  out  of  a  section  of  that  territory,  and 
duly  admitted  into  the  Union.  Some  of  the  places 
within  the  present  limits  of  Missouri  were  settled  as 
early  as  the  year  1764,  by  hunters  and  traders  gen- 
erally from  the  north  and  east.  In  that  year  the  city 
of  St.  Louis  was  founded,  now  the  largest  commercial 
place  on  the  Mississippi,  excepting  New  Orleans.  St. 
Charles,  on  the  Missouri,  was  established  in  1780,  and 
New  Madrid  on  the  Mississippi,  in  1787. 

BOUNDARIES  AND  EXTENT. 

Missouri  is  bounded  north  by  the  State  of  Iowa ;  east 
by  the  Mississippi  River,  which  separates  it  from  the 
14* 


162        THE  GAEDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

States  of  Illinois,  Kentucky,  and  part  of  Tennessee ; 
south  by  the  State  of  Arkansas ;  and  west  by  the  In- 
dian Territory,  and  by  the  River  Missouri,  dividing  it 
from  the  Deserts  of  Nebraska.  It  extends  from  36°  to 
40°  36'  north  latitude,  and  lies  between  89°  and  95° 
45'  west  longitude.  Its  area  is  estimated  at  67,380 
square  miles,  being  about  278  miles  in  length  by  235 
in  breadth. 

RIVERS.     . 

Missouri  enjoys  the  navigation  of  the  two  greatest 
rivers  in  the  United  States,  if  not  in  the  world.  By 
means  of  the  Mississippi  River,  which  coasts  her  entire 
eastern  boundary,  she  can  hold  commercial  intercourse 
with  the  most  northern  territory  of  the  Union,  with 
the  whole  of  the  valley  of  the  Ohio,  with  some  of  the 
Atlantic  States,  and  with  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  By 
means  of  the  Missouri,  her  other  great  river,  she  may 
extend  her  internal  commerce  to  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
besides  receiving  the  products  that  may  be  furnished  in. 
future  times  by  its  multitude  of  tributaries.  The  Mis- 
souri River  coasts  the  north-west  of  the  state  for  about 
200  miles,  (following  its  windings,)  and  then  darts 
across  the  state  in  a  direction  a  little  south  of  east, 
dividing  it  into  two  portions,  of  which  about  a  third  is 
north,  and  the  remainder  south  of  that  river.  The 
south  shore  is  bounded  in  many  places  by  bluffs  of 
from  100  to  300  feet  in  height,  while  the  north  is  often 
bottom  lands  not  generally  liable  to  inundation.  Both 
the  Mississippi  and  Missouri  Rivers  are  navigable  for 


THE   GREAT  WEST.  163 

• 

large  steamers  far  beyond  the  limits  of  the  state,  though 
the  navigation  of  the  latter  is  impeded  by  the  swiftness 
of  its  current  (twice  that  of  the  Mississippi)  and  by  the 
shifting  sands.  The  Missouri  River  receives  a  number 
of  tributaries  within  the  limits  of  the  state,  the  princi- 
pal of  which  are  the  Chariton  and  Grand  Rivers  from 
the  north,  and  the  Osage  and  Gasconade  from  the  south. 
The  principal  tributaries  of  the  Mississippi  River  within 
the  state  are  the  Salt  River,  north,  and  the  Maramec 
River,  south  of  the  Missouri  River.  The  St.  Francis 
and  White  Rivers,  with  their  branches,  drain  the  south- 
east part  of  the  state,  and  pass  into  Arkansas.  The 
Osage  is  navigable  for  boats  of  light  draught  200  miles, 
and  it  is  proposed  to  improve  its  navigation,  as  well  as 
that  of  the  Grand,  Salt,  and  Maramec  Rivers.  Fine 
plank  and  timber  are  floated  down  the  Gasconade 
River. 

CLIMATE. 

The  central  and  inland  position  of  the  state  assures 
to  its  inhabitants  extraordinary  freedom  from  the  sud- 
den and  trying  changes  which  are  felt  by  residents 
nearer  the  sea  coast  in  the  same  latitudes.  The  differ- 
ence of  temperature  between  the  cold  of  winter  and 
the  heat  of  summer  is  great  —  the  extreme  range  of 
the  thermometer  being  from  8°  below  zero  to  100° 
above.  But  the  seasons,  in  their  progress,  are  gradual 
and  uniform,  subject  to  few  or  no  abrupt  and  violent 
transitions.  The  air  is  pure  and  salubrious,  and  the 
climate  may  be  classed  among  those  most  favorable  to 
health. 


164        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OB 

• 
SURFACE,  SOIL,  &c. 

The  surface  and  soil  are  much  varied  throughout  the 
state.  In  some  quarters,  the  lands  are  undulating  and 
hilly,  not  rising,  however,  to  a  height  that  can  be  de- 
scribed as  mountainous.  Other  portions  are  swampy, 
and  subject  to  inundations,  though  heavily  timbered, 
and  having  an  alluvial  soil  of  great  fertility.  The  soil 
upon  the  uplands  is  in  general  very  productive,  consist- 
ing both  of  prairies  and  extensive  tracts  of  woodland  ; 
but  these  are  interspersed  with  rocky  ridges  and  ele- 
vated barrens.  The  low  lands,  bordering  on  the  rivers, 
are  extremely  rich.  Indian  corn  and  other  grains, 
hemp,  flax,  tobacco,  and  sweet  potatoes  are  among  the 
products  of  the  field.  Cotton  is  raised  in  the  southern 
section  of  the  state.  Among  the  forest  trees  are 
various  species  of  oak,  walnut,  locust,  ash,  cedar,  <fec. 
Yellow  and  white  pine  abound  in  some  localities. 
Grapes  are  found  in  profusion  among  the  underwood 
of  the  forests ;  and  most  of  the  fruits  common  to  the 
latitude  of  the  state  may  be  successfully  cultivated. 

AGRICULTURE. 

There  were  in  this  state,  in  1855,  over  3,000,000 
acres  of  improved,  and  about  7,000,000  acres  unim- 
proved land,  in  farms.  Cash  value  of  the  farms,  $70,- 
000,000.  Value  of  implements  and  machinery  attached 
thereto,  $4,000,000.  Yalue  of  live  stock,  horses,  oxen, 
and  other  cattle,  $20,000,000.  • 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  165 

The  wheat  crop  of  this  state,  in  1855,  was  6,000,000 
bushels  ;  rye,  50,000  ;  corn,  40,000,000  ;  oats,  6,000,- 
000  ;  barley,  10,000  ;  buckwheat,  30,000  ;  peas  and 
beans,  50,000 ;  potatoes,  1,000,000  ;  sweet  potatoes, 
350,000  ;  rice,  800,000  pounds.  Value  of  products  of 
the  orchard,  $525,000  ;  produce  of  market  gardens, 
1100,000  ;  pounds  of  butter  made,  8,000,000  ;  cheese, 
212,000  ;  maple  sugar,  200,000  ;  molasses,  6000  gal- 
lons ;  pounds  of  wool  produced,  1,800,000  ;  flax,  600,- 
000  ;  tobacco,  19,000  ;  hay,  cut,  125,000  tons  ;  hemp, 
20,000  tons ;  wine,  12,000  gallons. 

INTERNAL  IMPROVEMENTS. 

Common  roads  and  bridges  excepted,  Missouri  is 
almost  blameless  of  works  of  internal  improvement. 
Every  other  interest  of  the  state  is  far  ahead  of-  this, 
the  most  needful  to  its  permanent  prosperity.  At  the 
commencement  of  1850  there  were  only  five  macadam- 
ized roads  in  the  whole  country,  and  these,  all  centring 
at  St.  Louis,  only  passed  a  few  miles  into  the  interior. 
The  spirit  of  modern  improvement,  however,  has  not 
slept,  nor  have  the  people  been  unmindful  of  the  ben- 
efit that  the  railroad  will  realize  to  the  country.  A 
splendid  system  of  railroads  has  been  provided  for, 
which  will  carry  two  lines  directly  across  the  state  — 
one  from  Hannibal,  on  the  Mississippi,  to  St.  Joseph's, 
on  the  Missouri,  and  the  other  from  St.  Louis  to  the 
mouth  of  Kansas  River  —  both  intended  to  be  carried 


166        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

ultimately  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  from  the  latter  a 
south-western  branch  will  be  built  to  the  borders  of 
Arkansas.  From  St.  Louis  will  also  be  built  a  railroad 
northward  and  through  Iowa  to  the  settlements  of 
Minnesota.  Besides  these,  a  railroad  will  be  built 
from  St.  Louis  to  the  Iron  Mountain  ;  and  other  roads 
contemplated  are  the  Platte  County  Railroad,  the  Lex- 
ington and  Daviess  County  Railroad,  and  the  Can- 
ton and  Bloomfield  Railroad.  The  whole  length  of 
these  railroads  projected  is  about  1200  miles,  but  less 
than  40  miles  was  in  use  on  the  1st  of  January,  1855. 
The  following  sums  have  been  appropriated  by  the 
General  Assembly  to  aid  in  their  construction  :  for  the 
Hannibal  and  St.  Joseph's  Railroad,  11,500,000  ;  the 
Pacific  Railroad  and  its  south-western  branch,  $4,000,- 
000  ;  the  North  Missouri  Railroad,  $2,000,000  ;  the 
Iron  Mountain  Railroad,  $750,000  ;  the  Platte  County 
Railroad,  $500,000  ;  the  Lexington  and  Daviess  Coun- 
ty Railroad,  $300,000,  and  the  Canton  and  Bloomfield 
Railroad,  $300,000.  The  right  of  way  through  the 
public  lands  is  also  granted  by  the  general  govern- 
ment. With  these  means  and  facilities  the  works  ought 
to  progress  rapidly  to  completion. 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  167 

RAILROADS  IN  MISSOURI  IN   1856. 

None  finished  ;  five  under  construction,  or  about  to 
be  so. 

Length 


Iron  Mountain  Railroad, 

St.  Louis  to  the  Iron 

Mountain,  (no  track  yet 

laid,)     ......       93 

North  Missouri  Railroad, 

St.  Louis  to  the  state  line 

towards  Fort  des  Moines, 

(finished  to  St.  Charles,)     217  20  197 

Hannibal  and  St.  Joseph's 

Railroad,  (25  at    each 

end,)     ......    183  50  133 

Pacific  Railroad,  (finished 

to  Jefferson  City,)    -    -    330          130  200 

Ditto,  South-west  Branch, 

only  being  graded,   -    -     330 

1153          200  530 

The  sums  already  expended  in  these  enterprises  are 
as  follows  :  — 

$1,000,000  on  the  Iron  Mountain  Road. 
1,300,000  on  North  Missouri  Road. 
1,000,000  on  Hannibal  and  St.  Joseph's. 
4,000,000  on  Pacific  Railroad. 

50,000  on     do.     South-west  Branch. 


$7,350,000. 


168 


GOVERNMENT. 


The  governor  and  lieutenant  governor  are  chosen,  by 
a  plurality  of  the  popular  votes,  for  four  years,  and  are 
not  eligible  for  two  terms  in  succession.  The  lieuten- 
ant governor  is,  ex  officio,  president  of  the  Senate. 
The  legislature  consists  of  a  Senate,  in  number  not 
less  than  14  nor  more  than  33  ;  and  a  House  of  Repre- 
sentatives, not  to  exceed  100  in  number.  The  former 
are  chosen  for  four  years  —  one  half  every  second  year ; 
and  the  latter  every  second  year,  in  counties,  to  serve 
two  years.  The  legislature  meets  biennially,  on  the 
last  Monday  in  December,  and  the  members  receive 
three  dollars  per  diem  for  sixty  days  of  the  session, 
after  which  their  pay  is  reduced  to  one  dollar  —  a  fea- 
ture that  might  be  profitably  adopted  in  other  states. 

EDUCATION. 

University  of  St.  Louis,  at  St.  Louis  ;  Missouri  Uni- 
versity, at  Columbia ;  St.  Vincent's  College,  at  Cape 
Girardeau  ;  Masonic  College,  in  Marion  county ;  St. 
Charles  College,  at  St.  Charles  ;  Fayette  College,  at 
Fayette  ;  Medical  Department  of  St.  Louis  University, 
at  St.  Louis ;  and  Medical  Department  of  Missouri  Uni- 
versity, at  Columbia.  The  whole  have  1009  students. 
There  were  also  204  academies,  8829  pupils ;  1570 
schools,  51,754  scholars  ;  97  libraries,  aggregate  num- 
ber of  volumes,  75,056.  School  fund,  $1,275,657. 
There  is  an  asylum  for  the  deaf  and  dumb  at  Fulton, 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  169 

an  institution  for  the    education  of  the  blind  at  St. 
Louis,  and  a  lunatic  asylum  at  Fulton. 

RELIGION. 

The  Methodists  are  the  most  numerous  of  the  various 
religious  denominations  within  the  state.  Next  in 
numbers  are  the  Baptists  ;  then  the  Presbyterians,  Ko- 
man  Catholics,  and  Episcopalians.  There  are,  besides, 
several  congregations  of  "  Cumberland  "  and  "  Asso- 
ciate Reform  "  Presbyterians,  and  a  few  Unitarian  so- 
cieties. 

POPULATION. 

In  1810,  the  population  was  less  than  20,000.  Dur- 
ing the  following  ten  years,  it  had  increased  to  up- 
wards of  66,000.  In  1830,  it  numbered  140,000  ;  and 
in  1840,  383,000,  including  58,000  slaves.  Population 
in  1850,  684,132  ;  in  1855,  over  800,000. 

THE   MINES   OF  MISSOURI. 

The  lead  mines  have  been  wrought  since  the  first 
settlement  of  the  country.  The  ore  is  in  the  form  of 
sulphuret  and  carbonate,  and  in  the  upper  mines  at 
Potosi  it  is  found  mixed  with  calamine  and  blende. 
The  lead  region  extends  over  the  counties  of  Madison, 
Francois,  St.  Louis,  Washington,  &c.  Formerly  the 
carbonate  was  considered  as  worthless,  but  it  is  now 
reduced  in  blast  furnaces,  and  yields  72  per  cent.  The 
15 


170        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

sulphuret  yields  from  66  to  80  per  cent.,  and  contains 
about  6  per  cent,  of  silver.  Iron  in  the  form  of  hem- 
atite, and  the  ochrey,  the  micaceous,  and  red  oxides 
are  found  in  the  greatest  abundance.  The  ores  exist 
throughout  the  mineral  region,  and  extend  even  into 
the  coal  formation,  which  occupies  so  large  a  surface. 
Abundant,  easily  manufactured,  and  the  transportation 
easy,  this  is  essentially  the  staple  of  Missouri.  Her 
celebrated  mountains  of  micaceous  oxides  —  the  Iron 
Mountain  and  Pilot  Knob  —  are  almost  inexhaustible. 
They  form  the  eastern  extreme  of  the  Ozarks,  and  are 
situated  in  Frangois  county,  a  few  miles  east  of  Potosi, 
and  only  40  miles  from  St.  Genevieve,  on  the  Missis- 
sippi. The  two  peaks  are  about  6  miles  apart ;  the 
more  northerly  of  the  elevations,  the  Iron  Mountain, 
is  1J  miles  long  and  444  feet  high.  Its  whole  top  is  a 
solid  mass  of  iron,  and  one  sees  nothing  but  iron  lumps 
as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  The  ore  yields  60  per 
cent,  of  pig,  and  is  deemed  a  most  superior  metal. 
Pilot  Knob  is  1500  feet  high.  Dr.  Feuchtwanger  esti- 
mates the  quantity  of  pig  iron  imbedded  in  these  moun- 
tains alone  at  600,000,000  of 'tons  —  enough  to  supply 
the  world  for  more  than  a  century.  The  mines  of 
Elba,  of  Sweden,  or  of  Norway,  together,  do  not  con- 
tain an  amount  equal  to  this.  The  mines  of  copper 
are  chiefly  found  in  the,  south  and  west  portions  of  the 
mineral  region,  but  exist  in  other  parts.  The  ore  is 
of  every  variety,  and  usually  very  rich.  It  is  found  in 
combination  with  lead  and  iron,  frequently  with  man- 
ganese, cobalt,  and  nickel,  and  occasionally  with  silver. 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  171 

It  is  generally  pyritous,  but  oxides  and  carbonates  are 
frequently  found.  The  ores  appear  as  a  cement,  uniting 
angular  fragments  of  lime  rock  forming  a  breccia, 
and  much  of  it  is  easily  removed  by  a  pickaxe  alone. 
As  a  general  thing  the  yield  is  about  34  per  cent,  of 
metal.  Hitherto  mining  for  copper  has  been  little  at- 
tended to ;  but  it  is  now  probable  that  operations  will 
be  commenced  on  a  large  scale,  and  as  the  indications 
of  extensive  lodes  have  been  traced  for  miles,  this  prod- 
uct is  destined  to  be  one  of  the  most  valuable  of  the 
state  ;  indeed,  the  copper  mines  of  Missouri  are  said  to 
be  more  valuable  than  even  those  of  Lake  Superior. 
The  several  metals  found  in  combination  with  the 
above,  namely,  silver,  zinc,  manganese,  cobalt,  nickel, 
<fcc.,  give  an  additional  value  to  the  mines;  and  as  tin 
has  been  found  near  Caledonia,  it  may  be  said  of  Mis- 
souri, that  no  other  state  or  country  is  richer  in  metallic 
wealth,  or  has  better  prospects  of  future  prosperity. 
The  substantial  wealth  of  England  and  Belgium  is  drawn 
from  their  mines;  but  neither  of  these  countries  can 
compare  in  any  one  respect  with  this  state. 

ST.  LOUIS. 

City,  and  seat  of  justice  of  St.  Louis  county.  On 
the  west  bank  of  the  Mississippi  River,  18  miles  below 
the  mouth  of  the  Missouri.  130  miles  east  from  Jeffer- 
son City,  the  capital  of  the  state,  and  1101  miles,  by 
the  course  of  the  river,  north  from  New  Orleans.  Pop- 
ulation in  1810, 1600  ;  in  1820,  4598  ;  in  1830,  6694 ; 


172        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

in  1840, 16,469  ;  in  1850,  82,774.  St.  Louis  is  the 
commercial  metropolis  of  Missouri,  and  was  formerly 
the  seat  of  government.  It  was  first  settled  in  1764, 
but  during  its  subjection  to  the  French  and  Spanish 
colonial  governments,  remained  a  mere  village.  The 
site  is  a  most  eligible  one,  being  elevated  many  feet 
above  the  floods  in  the  Mississippi,  and  favorable  in 
that,  as  well  as  in  other  respects,  to  the  salubrity  of 
the  place.  It  rises  from  the  river  by  two  bottoms,  or 
plains  ;  the  first,  which  is  alluvial,  being  20  feet  above 
the  highest  water,  and  the  second,  which  is  a  limestone 
bank,  ascending  40  feet  higher  than  the  first,  to  the 
level  of  the  adjacent  country,  sweeping  away  towards 
the  western  horizon  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  The 
ascent  from  the  river  to  the  first  of  these  terraces  is 
somewhat  abrupt;  but  the  second  acclivity  is  more 
gradual,  carrying  the  observer  into  the  finest  part  of 
the  city,  from  which  is  enjoyed  a  beautiful  prospect  of 
the  river,  the  lower  sections  of  the  city  itself,  and  the 
wide  surrounding  country. 

The  situation  of  St.  Louis,  in  respect  to  its  advan- 
tages for  becoming  a  great  commercial  place,  is  unsur- 
passed, perhaps,  by  that  of  any  other  inland  city  in  the 
whole  world.  Being  located  not  far  from  the  geograph- 
ical centre  of  the  Mississippi  Valley,  and  almost  at  the 
very  focus  towards  which  its  great  navigable  rivers,  the 
Mississippi,  Missouri,  Ohio,  and  Illinois,  converge  their 
courses,  it  is  not  to  be  doubted  that,  as  the  resources 
of  this  immense  region  are  more  and  more  largely  de- 
veloped, this  must  become  a  mart  of  wealth  and  com- 


THE   GREAT  WEST. 


merce  scarcely  inferior  to  any  in  the  United  States. 
Its  trade  already  exceeds  that  of  any  other  ,  place  on 
the  Mississippi,  except  New  Orleans.  The  steamboats, 
which  ply  from  this  place  in  every  direction,  seem  al- 
most numberless.  A  great  number  of  these  and  of  all 
descriptions  of  river  craft,  bound  to  every  point  on  the 
navigable  waters  of  the  Mississippi  Yalley,  are  seen  at 
all  times  in  its  harbor.  This  is  also  a  great  depot  and 
point  of  departure  for  the  American  fur  trade,  and  for 
the  rich  lead  mines  of  the  Upper  Mississippi  ;  and  here 
hunters,  trappers,  miners,  adventurers,  and  emigrants, 
of  all  characters  and  languages,  meet  in  the  prosecu- 
tion of  their  various  objects,  and  hence  scatter  towards 
the  most  distant  parts  of  the  great  west. 

The  city  was  originally  laid  out  on  the  first  bank, 
consisting  of  three  narrow  streets  parallel  with  the 
course  of  the  river  ;  but  after  its  more  rapid  growth 
commenced,  under  the  auspices  of  an  American  popu- 
lation, it  soon  extended  itself  to  the  upper  plain  by  the 
grading  of  several  streets  back  of  the  original  plot. 
These  are  wide  and  airy,  and  are  crossed  at  right 
angles  by  about  20  other  streets  ascending  directly 
from  the  river.  North  and  south  of  the  more  compact 
portion  of  the  city,  which  is  built  up  now  about  2  miles 
on  the  river,  extensive  suburbs  have  been  laid  out  on 
the  same  general  plan.  Front  Street,  on  the  river 
bank,  is  built  up  on  the  side  opposite  the  landing,  with 
a  range  of  stone  warehouses,  four  stories  high,  which 
make  an  imposing  appearance,  and  are  the  seat  of  a 
heavy  business.  The  first  street  back  of  this  is  the 
15* 


174       THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OB 

principal  seat  of  the  wholesale  dry  goods  business. 
The  city  ^is  generally  well  built,  the  more  recent  por- 
tions being  chiefly  of  brick,  which  are  made  in  abun- 
dance in  the  immediate  vicinity.  Stone  also  for  build- 
ing is  quarried  from  the  limestone  strata  on  the  spot. 
Many  of  the  residences,  particularly  in  the  upper  parts 
of  the  city,  are  of  costly  and  beautiful  architecture, 
and  are  surrounded  by  ornamental  yards  and  gardens. 
Many  of  the  public  buildings  are  elegant  and  finely 
situated.  The  Court  House  stands  in  a  public  square, 
near  the  centre  of  the  city.  The  City  Hall  is  on  a 
square  reserved  for  the  purpose  at  the  foot  of  Market 
Street,  the  basement  being  occupied  as  a  market.  The 
edifice  is  a  splendid  structure  of  brick.  The  First 
Presbyterian  Church,  a  large  and  handsome  building, 
occupies  a  beautiful  site  upon  the  high  ground  of  the 
city,  where  it  is  surrounded  with  ornamental  trees. 
The  Unitarian  Church  is  a  large  and  tasteful  building. 
The  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  is  a  spacious  edifice, 
136  feet  long  by  58  feet  wide,  with  a  massive  Doric 
portico  in  front.  The  walls  are  20  feet  in  height, 
above  which  rises  a  square  tower  to  the  height  of  40 
feet,  sustaining  an  octagonal  spire,  surmounted  with  a 
gilt  cross.  In  the  steeple  of  this  church  is  a  chime  of 
bells,  the  largest  of  which  weighs  2600  pounds.  The 
several  religious  denominations  in  St.  Louis  have  as 
many  as  15  or  16  churches.  There  are  a  number  of 
literary  and  benevolent  institutions,  whose  labors  and 
influence  are  important.  Among  these  are  the  Orphan 
Asylum,  under  the  direction  of  Protestant  ladies,  and 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  175 

the  Roman  Catholic  Asylum  for  Orphans,  conducted 
by  the  Sisters  of  Charity.  The  Western  Academy  of 
Sciences  is  established  here,  and  has  an  extensive  mu- 
seum of  natural  history,  mineralogy,  <fec.  Besides 
this,  there  is  a  museum  of  Indian  antiquities,  fossil 
remains,  and  other  curious  relics.  The  medical  de- 
partment of  the  University  of  St.  Louis  has  a  building 
for  its  laboratory  and  lectures  in  the  city.  The  Uni- 
versity building  itself  is  4  miles  north  of  the  city. 
Within  the  southern  limits  of  St.  Louis  is  the  arsenal 
established  here  by  the  United  States ;  also  a  few  miles 
below  are  the  Jefferson  United  States  Barracks,  capa- 
ble of  accommodating  about  700  men. 

St.  Louis  is  supplied  with  water  by  the  operation  of 
a  steam  engine,  raising  it  from  the  Mississippi  into  a 
reservoir  upon  the  summit  of  one  of  those  ancient 
mounds  for,  which  this  part  of  the  country  is  remark- 
able. Thence  it  is  distributed  in  iron  pipes  over  the 
city.  The  streets,  churches,  stores,  and  dwellings,  to 
some  extent,  are  lighted  with  gas. 

St.  Louis  was  first  settled  by  a  company  of  merchants, 
to  whom  the  French  director  general  of  Louisiana  had 
granted  the  exclusive  privilege  of  trading  with  the 
Indians  on  the  Missouri.  They  built  a  large  house 
and  four  stores  here,  which  in  1770  had  increased  to 
40  houses,  and  a  small  French  garrison  for.  their  de- 
fence. In  1780  an  expedition,  consisting  of  British 
and  Indians,  was  fitted  out  at  Michilimackinac  for  the 
capture  of  St.  Louis  and  other  places  on  the  west  side 
of  the  Mississippi,  which  was  successfully  repelled  by 


176        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

the  aid  of  an  American  force  under  General  George 
Rogers  Clark,  which  was  providentially  encamped  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  The  number  of  inhab- 
itants in  1840  was  only  16,469 ;  and,  according  to  a 
local  census  in  1855,  the  population  was  nearly  125,000 
souls,  thus  showing  the  enormous  increase  of  over 
100,000  in  15  years.  This  outrivals  the  most  astonish- 
ing performances  of  the  genii  of  the  Lamp  of  Aladdin. 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  177 


KANZAS. 

KANZAS  was  annexed  to  the  United  States  by  virtue 
of  a  treaty  with  France  concluded  at  Paris  on  the  30th 
of  April,  1803.  It  formed  a  portion  of  the  vast  tract 
of  country  then  ceded  to  us  by  France,  known  as  the 
"  Louisiana  Purchase."  The  act  authorizing  the  presi- 
dent (Thomas  Jefferson)  to  take  possession  of  Louisi- 
ana, including  the  territories  now  known  as  Indian, 
Kanzas,  Nebraska,  Minnesota,  and  the  States  of  Arkan- 
sas, Missouri,  and  Iowa,  was  approved  October  31, 1803, 
and  on  the  10th  of  the  following  November  the  "  act 
authorizing  the  creation  of  a  stock  to  the  amount  of 
$11,250,000,  for  the  purpose  of  carrying  into  effect  the 
convention  of  the  30th  of  April,  1803,  between  the 
United  States  and  the  French  republic,  and  making 
provision  for  the  payment  of  the  same,"  was  approved. 
On  the  same  day  an  act  was  approved  "  Making  pro- 
vision for  the  payment  of  claims  of  citizens  of  the 
United  States  on  the  government  of  France,  the  pay- 
ment of  which  has  been  assumed  by  the  United  States 
by  virtue  of  the  convention  of  the  30th  o/  April,  1803, 
between  the  United  States  and  the  French  republic." 
This  act  provided  for  the  payment  of  83,750,000.  So 
that  the  entire  cost  of  the  Louisiana  Purchase  to  the 
government  of  the  United  States  was  115,000,000. 


178  THE  GARDEN   OF  THE   WORLD,   OR 

•*  "  • 
POSITION   AND   BOUNDARIES. 

Kanzas  Territory  is  situated  between  the  37th  and 
40th  parallels  of  north  latitude.  It  is  bounded  on  the 
north  by  the  Territory  of  Nebraska ;  on  the  west  by  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  Utah  and  New  Mexico  Territories ; 
on  the  south  by  New  Mexico  and  Indian  Territory ; 
and  on  the  east  by  Missouri.  It  therefore  embraces  a 
section  of  country  extending  in  breadth  over  three  de- 
grees of  latitude ;  and  from  east  to  west  over  twelve  de- 
grees of  longitude,  viz.,  from  94°  to  106^°  W.  From 
103°  longitude,  however,  to  the  western  boundary,  the 
width  is  only  two  degrees  of  latitude,  as  at  that  point 
New  Mexico  extends  one  degree  farther  north  than 
the  Indian  Territory.  Nearly  half  of  this  narrow 
western  portion  extends  over  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

The  area  of  Kanzas  is  114,793  square  miles.  Ulti- 
mately the  State  of  Kanzas  will  probably  be  restricted 
by  cutting  off  the  western  portion  to  form  a  new  state 
or  states,  so  as  to  leave  this  about  300  miles  long  from 
east  to  west,  and  200  wide  from  north  to  south. 

RIVERS. 

The  Kanzas  River  at  its  delta  is  600  yards  wide  ; 
and  for  the  first  hundred  miles  above,  its  average  width 
is  nearly  the  same  ;  from  Pottawattomie  to  Big  Blue  it 
is  400  yards  ;  and  from  that  to  Fort  Riley,  200  yards. 

This  river  is  turbid  like  the  Lower  Mississippi.  For 
125  miles  from  the  mouth  it  is  quite  straight ;  above 


THE   GEEAT   WEST.  179 

that  it  is  as  crooked  as  the  mad  Missouri ;  but  the  cur- 
rent is  less  rapid,  there  are  fewer  snags,  the  banks  are 
firmer,  and  not  so  often  cut  away  for  new  channels. 
It  is  a  good  navigable  stream  for  three  months  in  the 
year,  and  in  very  wet  seasons,  for  as  many  as  five 
months. 

Ascending  15  miles,  to  the  entrance  of  Delaware 
Creek,  the  -river  is  bordered  with  woodland  and  prairie ; 
from  thence  to  Fort  Kiley  both  banks  are  heavily  tim- 
bered, with  here  and  there  a  high  bottom  of  dry,  rich 
alluvion.  Along  every  few  miles  of  this  region,  fine 
arable  bluffs  project  boldly  into,  or  swell  out  gently 
from  the  rippling  waters  that  float  dreamily  by,  or 
glide  on  with  arrowy  sweep. 

On  the  north  side  there  is  a  mound  of  remarkable 
beauty  ;  from  the  western  curve  of  which  a  brook,  poet- 
ically named  the  Stranger,  pours  in  its  pellucid  tribute ; 
and  immediately  above  there  is  a  great  horseshoe  bend, 
where  a  tract  of  excellent  bottom  land,  high  and  dry, 
might,  with  much  saving  of  labor,  be  enclosed  by  a 
fence  across  the  neck.  Opposite  there  is  a  gradually 
rising,  grass  plat,  ornamented  with  groups  of  trees,  and 
rolling  up  into  a  bold  and  broad  prairie.  Above,  in 
this  vicinity,  the  shore  is  rocky.  Next  is  a  bald  head- 
land on  the  north,  and  a  lawn  opening  out  to  the  south. 
And  beyond  high  table  lands  impinge  against  the  river, 
sloping  down  and  outward  into  bottoms  densely  cov- 
ered with  grand  old  trees,  combining  that  variety  of 
scenery  which  charms  the  eye  with  its  ever  newness ; 
now  imposing  in  its  abruptness,  then  relieved  with 


180        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

long  yistas  of  low  and  narrow  dales,  and  anon  check- 
ered with  precipice  and  mossy  ledge,  and  cascades 
dancing  in  the  sunlight,  succeeded  by  pastoral  plains, 
overshadowed  with  unique  and  graceful  swells,  and 
darkening  again  into  picturesque  banks  and  jutting 
crags.  There  the  grape  binds  its  festoons  from  tree  to 
tree,  and  the  sweet-scented  wild  rose  clambers  broad 
and  high  into  the  branches,  forming  bowers  of  beauty 
in  the  alcove  of  untouched  nature.  The  stock-dove 
sighs  its  plaintive  hymn  to  the  listening  wood,  which 
the  brisk  notes  of  the  blue  jay  and  many-voiced  carols 
of  the  mocking  bird  enliven  again.  The  red  oriole 
flits  from  its  pendent  nest,  and  the  gay  humming  bird 
glances  like  a  winged  gem  among  the  leaves  and 
flower  cups. 

Still  passing  up  the  Kanzas  from  the  foot  of  a  low 
bluff  on  the  north,  Sugar  Creek  comes  in  under  spread 
of  a  grape  thicket  of  several  thousand  acres,  alternated 
with  a  rich  walnut  bottom.  Near  by  an  abundance  of 
coal  is  found ;  and  an  undulating  eminence,  diversified 
with  grove  and  prairie,  affords  an  eligible  site  for  a 
flourishing  city. 

A  short  distance  above,  on  the  south,  the  Wakaroosa 
flows  in,  near  the  western  limit  of  the  Shawnee  Reserve. 
And  eight  miles  back,  several  companies,  under  the 
aegis  of  the  Massachusetts  League,  have  built,  in  a  fine 
romantic  country  containing  limestone,  a  sufficiency  of 
building  stone,  clay  for  brick,  sand,  and  other  requi- 
sites for  a  sudden  and  brilliant  prosperity.  The  Waka- 
roosa, like  most  other  western  streams,  is  in  some 


THE   GREAT  WEST.  181 

places  deeply  indented,  cleaving  its  banks  canal-like, 
and  revealing  a  fat,  black  loam,  five  feet  in  depth. 

Excepting  the  Pottawattomie  tract,  which  is  30  miles 
square,  all  the  country  west  of  the  Wakaroosa  settle- 
ment, and  south  of  the  Kanzas  River,  is  open  to  who- 
ever may  choose  to  pitch  his  tent  there. 

Above  the  mouth  of  the  Wakaroosa,  on  either  side 
of  the  river,  are  bottom  lands  "  as  good  as  the  best." 
A  short  way  beyond  these,  on  the  north  bank,  there  is 
another  magnificent  site  for  a  town ;  and  farther  up,  to 
the  south,  the  prairie  slopes  down  invitingly  to  the 
water's  edge,  suggesting  to  the  busy  fancy  of  the  pio- 
neer the  not  distant  future,  when  the  grassy  -margin 
shall  be  cased  with  a  stone  levee,  and  the  cough  of  the 
steam  engine  shall  awaken  the  drowsy  echoes  of  the 
solitudes.  Already  numerous  cabins  dot  the  billows 
of  verdure,  which  toss  their  wooded  crests  far  out  to  . 
the  dark  skirts  of  the  Wakaroosa,  where  one  lone 
mound  towers  over  all  others,  a  perpetual  landmark  of 
the  firm  footprints  of  the  free. 

Here  there  is  wild  game  enough  to  amuse  a  genera- 
tion of  Nimrods  ;  deer,  raccoons,  opossums,  squirrels, 
rabbits,  turkeys,  geese,  ducks,  prairie  fowls,  partridges, 
and  pheasants  are  all  about,  and  their  name  is  Legion. 

Studding  the  banks  of  the  rivulets,  and  in  clumps 
on  the  prairie,  are  several  varieties  of  plums,  wild 
cherry,  the  delicious  paw-paw,  persimmon,  hazelnut, 
and  hickory,  white  and  black  walnut,  coffee  bean,  but- 
ternut, gooseberry,  haw,  and,  of  all  nuts,  the  unap- 
proachable pecan,  with  grapes  of  different  kinds,  and 
16 


182        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

meadows  of  pea  vines,  strawberries,  raspberries,  and 
others  of  "  the  gelic  race." 

The  soil  is  also  well  adapted  to  the  culture  of  the 
apple,  peach,  pear,  and  currant,  and  produces  exuber- 
ant crops  of  wheat,  hemp,  corn,  buckwheat,  oats,  rye, 
Irish  and  sweet  potatoes,  tobacco,  and  all  the  vegeta- 
bles of  the' Eastern  States. 

In  the  forests  are  many  trees  of  value  ;  such  as  oak, 
birch,  beech,  maple,  hackberry,  sycamore,  linden,  elm, 
ash,  and  mulberry,  and  that  sentinel  of  all  the  Rocky 
Mountain  rivers,  the  stately  cottonwood  ;  to  say  nothing 
of  certain  orchards  of  black-jack,  so  diminutive,  gnarled, 
knobby,. and  all  atwist,  that  they  do  —  to  admire. 

Proceeding  up  the  Kanzas,  the  next  region  of  mark 
is  that  adjacent  to  Grasshopper  Creek.  Here  is  a  bluff 
of  more  than  ordinary  beauty,  commanding  a  wide  and 
pleasant  prospect.  From  this  to  Mud  Creek,  a  prairie 
bottom  spreads  out  its  lap  of  natural  treasures,  alluring 
the  industrious  emigrant  to  pause  from  his  journeying 
and  make  himself  a  home.  Nor  is  the  invitation  un- 
heeded, for  -claims  are  fast  being  taken  up.  Following 
the  river,  this  is  80  miles  from  the  mouth. 

The  next  15  miles  present  the  usual  variety  of  prairie 
and  timber.  Then,  three  miles  beyond,  is  Stinson's 
Ferry,  with  the  house  and  farm  of  Mr.  Stinson  crown- 
ing a  picturesque  eminence. 

At  the  Hundred  Mile  Point,  on  the  north  side,  rises 
a  lofty,  handsome  bluff,  like  an  island  from  out  a  sea 
of  timber  ;  its  summit  decorated  with  enwoven  foliage 
of  the  oak  and  walnut ;  whilst  afar,  the  thick  rolls  of 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  183 

prairie  surge  off  to  the  horizon,  with  its  narrow  curtain 
of  haze,  separating  the  bright  green  from  the  brighter 
blue.  To  behold  a  panorama  like  this,  in  its  full  glory, 
the  traveller  should  select  the  month  of  June,  when  all 
the  wild  parterre  is  glowing  with  a  thousand  flowers. 
Then  there  is  more  than  tropical  richness  lavished  on 
all  that  meets  the  eye ;  and  Tom  Moore's  music- 
breathing  description  of  the  Valley  of  Cashmere  seems 
no  longer  an  Oriental  dream. 

Within  view  from  the  Point,  along  the  left  bank,  the 
prairie  dips  smooth  and  velvety  to  the  river's  rim ; 
then  swells  gracefully  out  southward,  bearing  the  fancy 
away  over  the  Grand  Prairie  to  the  mountainous  portals 
of  the  distant  Cordilleras,  over  many  fair  and  fenceless 
fields,  greening  in  the  rain  and  radiant  sunshine.  In 
such  scenes  the  big  heart  of  the  American  finds  scope ; 
he  lets  loose  the  spread  eagles  of  the  Fourth  of  July, 
and  arrives  at  the  absolute  conviction  that  ours  is  a 
great  country. 

Farther  up  and  we  stand  at  the  mouth  of  Soldier 
Creek,  whose  fountlets  are  among  the  hills  of  the  Kickar 
poos.  Its  windings  are  marked  with  a  broad  fringe  of 
leaves,  impervious  to  the  diamond  arrows  of  the  sun 
when  raining  down  in  sheaves  of  splendor  upon  the 
summer  prairie. 

Next  is  Pappan's  Ferry,  with  Pappan's  house  on  the 
right,  peeping  cozily  out  from  its  environment  of  trees. 
On  the  thither  side  an  open  plain  uplifts  its  garlands, 
braided  in  the  tall,  rank  grass  that  sways  to  the  comb- 
ing breeze.  Here  is  the  eastern  limit  of  the  Pottowat- 
tomies,  115  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  river. 


184        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

Passing  onward,  broad  wings  of  timber  fold  in  on 
both  sides,  with  the  southern  bluffs  looming  up  a  hun- 
dred feet.  The  Great  Crossing  is  then  reached,  where 
there  are  three  ferries.  On  the  south  bank  is  a  Pot- 
tawattomie  village,  with  stores,  a  Baptist  Mission,  and 
school.  In  this  field  of  labor  the  agents  of  the  church 
have  been  more  successful  than  ordinary,  and  there  are 
some  children  of  the  wild  who  have  reason  to  bless 
their  efforts. 

Pursuing  the  westward  route,  there  is  a  rapid  alter- 
nation of  meadow  and  grove,  affording  the  largest  fa- 
cilities for  farming  ;  at  every  change,  calling  up  in  the 
mind  of  the  spectator  images  of  rural  ease  and  plenty, 
to  be  realized  beneath  the  sceptre  of  civilization,  when 
the  Indian  shall  be  closely  girt  with  bands  of  white 
brothers,  who  shall  teach  him,  by  example,  the  nobility 
of  toil,  and  temperate,  virtuous  life. 

Next  we  have  Uniontown,  a  village  of  log  cabins,  a 
mile  to  the  south  of  the  river  ;  then  Red  Bluffs,  taking 
name  from  the  peculiar  bright  brown  of  the  soil,  which 
is  highly  productive.  This  mulatto  color  pervades  the 
surface  to  considerable  depth,  and  extends  for  several 
miles  around.  Darling's  Ferry  is  passed,  and  Mill 
Creek  comes  plashing  and  leaping  in,  like  a  little 
mountain  river.  Nor  is  its  force  spent  in  wanton  gam- 
bols ;  on  it  the  Pottawattomies  have  erected  a  grist  mill. 
And  what  with  its  belts  of  trees,  and  grassy  reaches 
between,  and  clusters  of  tall  mounds,  the  Kanzas  Valley 
has  no  lovelier  scene. 

Extending  south-westward  from  Mill  Creek  is  more 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  185 

excellent  prairie  country,  with  a  site  in  front  for  another 
commercial  town.  Beyond  there  are  bluffs  of  red  marl 
leading  off  into  open  table  land,  which  again  shelves  down 
into  luxuriant  bottoms,  with  the  river  rolling  between. 
Here  the  neighboring  Indians  are  wont  to  engage  in 
athletic  sports,  or  gather  around  the  council  fire  in 
grave  deliberation.  Through  the  leafy  branches  of  a 
forest  hard  by,  the  smoke  from  scattered  wigwams  curls 
up,  or  stands,  in  serene  weather,  in  columns  against 
the  sky,  like  the  dissolving  genii  in  the  fable,  let  loose 
from  Solomon's  casket.  All  around  resembles  a  Sleepy 
Hollow  on  a  spreading  scale,  not  peopled  with  plethoric 
Dutchmen  created  by  the  muse  of  Irving,  but  hunters 
of  copper  hue,  and  their  squaws,  and  naked  little  ones, 
quick  moving  but  very  still,  imparting  to  the  else  smiling 
landscape  too  much  of  their  own  forlornness,  wounding 
the  impressible  heart  of  the  sympathizing  beholder,  and 
diffusing  over  the  face  of  Nature,  even  in  her  gladdest 
moods,  a  spirit  stern,  sad,  and  visionary.  Yet  there 
are  hours  at  sober  eventide,  or  in  the  fresh  morning, 
when  the  whoop  rings  merrily  out  and  startles  re- 
sponse in  the  lone  thicket.  But,  for  the  most  part,  the 
Indian  always  seems  a  gloomy  man.  His  life  is  too 
meditative,  introspective,  and  self-conscious  ;  while  the 
female  broods  half  her  time  in  unsocial  melancholy, 
sitting  on  a  mat  at  her  lodge  door  for  hours,  the  picture 
of  immobility,  with  unmeaning  brow,  and  gazing  into 
vacancy,  or  going  about  her  monotonous  toil  with  the 
automatic  precision  of  a  wooden  figure.  And  even 
childhood,  free  and  glorious  childhood,  when  rightly 
16* 


186        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

nurtured,  is  crushed  by  the  same  sombre,  pervading 
spell,  or  comes  upon  earth  with  the  morbid  parent 
nature.  It  is  true  many  of  the  girls,  in  their  very  qui- 
etude, have  a  snaky  glitter  of  the  eye,  betokening  latent 
restlessness ;  but  your  little  red  boy,  plump  and  well 
fihapen,  wears  an  air  of  reserve  and  sober  calculation, 
as  though  the  whole  world  were  to  be  doubted  ere  tried. 
He  is  innocent,  but  hardly  seems  so ;  not  saucy,  nor 
lethargic ;  the  calm  embodiment  of  few  but  intense 
thoughts ;  the  young  tiger,  not  yet  lapping  blood,  but 
crouching  to  the  fatal  spring.  There  is  a  preternatu- 
ralness  about  him.  His  deportment  is  the  opposite  of 
that  laughing  abandon  in  which  the  healthy  white  child 
revels,  by  his  frank  recklessness  endearing  himself  to 
older  ones,  upon  the  dial  of  whose  years  the  shadows 
of  distrust  and  grief  have  fallen  darkly.  Old  and 
joung,  they  look  so  much  like  what  they  are,  that  a 
stranger  coming  from  the  moon,  or  from  planetary  land 
farther  than  that,  would  pronounce  them  a  doomed  race. 
Their  stolid  appearance  is  the  smouldering  of  native 
energy,  that  will  betimes  flare  fiercely  out.  Slow  paced 
they  go  to  the  tombs  of  history.  On  their  fading  scroll 
of  destiny  we  trace  the  chapters  of  a  vigorous  new  life, 
in  each  line  of  which  there  is  mental  brilliancy,  and  a 
strong  and  happy  heart-beat.  Heaven  grant  that  those 
who  are  thronging  to  the  fair  banks  of  Kanzas  may 
present  a  phalanx  as  implacable  to  tyranny,  and  be  as 
nobly  free,  as  those  they  displace  from  their  ancient 
possessions ! 
Near  the  last-described  locality  stands  the  Catholic 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  187 

Mission,  a  not  ineffective  institution.  Its  farms  are  in 
a  flourishing  condition.  This  is  known  as  St.  Mary's  — 
the  one  golden  word  of  poesy,  sacred  in  art  as  in 
religion,  and  beautiful  wherever  the  beautiful  is  adored. 
It  is  m'eet  that  the  chime  of  Sabbath  bells  should  give 
the  music  of  that  holy  name  to  the  wilds. 

Twenty-five  miles  above,  the  Vermilion  River  dis- 
gorges, with  its  umbrageous  binding  of  timber,  like  a 
dark  serpent  trailing  out  to  the  north.  This  stream  is 
marked  with  many  available  mill  sites.  And,  in  fact,  it 
is  upon  the  northern  tributaries  of  the  Kanzas,  deeply 
indented  and  of  descending  volume,  that  the  most  fre- 
quent and  valuable  water  power  of  the  territory  is  to 
be  found. 

Three  miles  above  the  Vermilion,  and  about  170 
from  the  mouth  of  the  Kanzas,  the  western  line  of 
Pottawattomie  land  cuts  for  30  miles  from  south  to 
north.  Here  are  the  Indian  Pillars  of  Hercules  (fig- 
uratively speaking;)  for  beyond,  north  and  west,  -are 
no  more  reservations,  but  one  uncircumscribed  Atlan- 
tic, open  to  the  keel  of  a  thousand  prairie  ships  for 
emigrant  families  to  go  whither  they  list,  to  whatever 
point  of  this  large  arc  of  the  compass  fancy  or  inclina- 
tion tends.- 

A  short  distance  above,  the  Big  Blue  pours  in  its 
affluence  of  waters  from  the  hills  of  Nebraska.  It  is 
navigable  for  a  few  miles,  and  winds  through  the  ao- 
customed  variety  of  woodland  and  arable  bottoms. 
Overlooking  the  confluent  rivers,  the  Blue  Hill,  in  flow- 
ing vestments  of  verdure,  stands  as  in  priestly  benedic- 


188        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

tion  of  the  nuptials  of  the  lordly  Kanzas  with  his  im- 
petuous and  willing  bride.  On  the  left  the  conical 
bluffs,  and  beyond,  one  above  another,  the  step-like 
meadowy  mounds  are  piled  magnificently  out  into  a 
gigantic  Jacob's  Ladder,  leaning  far  off  against  the 
azure  sky. 

From  this  point  to  its  eastern  ultimate,  the  southern 
acclivity  of  the  Kanzas  valley  presses  against  the  chan- 
nel every  4  or  5  miles,  enlocking  intervals  of  en- 
ticing loveliness,  and  snug  little  coves  for  tranquil 
neighborhoods,  or  outfolding  in  long  reaches  of  prairie 
grandeur ;  while  on  the  northern  bank  there  is  a  con- 
tinuous bottom,  5  miles  broad,  stretching  down  stream 
for  50  miles ;  not  so  extensive,  but  in  richness  rivalling 
the  American  Bottom  south  of  St.  Louis,  and  more 
elevated  and  healthier,  blessed  with  salubrious  atmos- 
phere, and  not  subject  to  inundation  like  that  where  it 
is  said  the  inhabitants  are  fast  growing  webfooted  and 
amphibious.  There  are  no  sloughs,  nor  stagnant  pools, 
and  the  rivulets  course  through  gravelly  beds.  Still 
farther  out  to  the  north,  the  rolling  prairies  drain  off 
the  water ;  and  the  soil,  of  black,  sandy  loam,  is  genial 
and  quick.  In  the  beginning  of  April,  and  earlier, 
there  is  superabundant  grazing.  North-west  of  the 
Blue  Hill,  the  country  is  more  elevated  and  broken ; 
and  above,  the  bluffs  exhibit  a  rugged  and  precipitous 
fa£ade.  Hereabouts  is  a  favorite  abode  of  the  gray 
eagle  —  bird  sacred  from  the  red  man's  arrow,  but  not 
from  the  click  of  the  white  man's  rifle  —  and  winging 
its  way  from  his  advancing  footsteps,  like  all*  other 
things  tameless  and  proud. 


THE  GREAT   WEST.  189 

Immediately  west  of  the  entrance  of  the  Blue,  a  nar- 
row, fine  prairie  slopes  northward  farther  than  the  eye 
can  follow.  And  on  the  north  a  lawn  of  several  thou- 
sand acres  is  swept  in  by  the  river  bend,  with  isthmus 
of  about  half  a  mile.  A  few  clumps  of  trees  embellish 
this  garden  spot,  and  a  perennial  spring  gushes  out, 
cool  and  clear,  while,  from  an  adjacent  bluff,  ledges  of 
building  stone  crop  out,  as  if  profuse  nature  here  meant 
to  give  broadcast  hints  to  the  prospecting  pioneer. 

A  little  way  up,  on  the  right,  is  an  appropriate  town 
site,  flanked  with  a  limpid  runlet,  glittering  out  from 
the  cover  of  its  dense  border  of  timber. 

Higher  up,  from  a  southerly  valley,  comes  ringing 
in  the  tuneful  wavelets  of  the  Oroloosa,  irrigating  a 
long,  rich  trough,  the  very  paradise  for  a  farming 
community. 

From  this  to  the  Forks,  either  bank  is  a  verdant  and 
flowery  meadow,  with  skirts  of  timber  and  jutting  bluffs 
on  the  north.  All  this  tract  might  be  advantageously 
partitioned  into  stock  farms. 

CLIMATE. 

The  climate  of  Eastern  Kanzas  resembles  that  of 
Kentucky  and  Missouri.  It  is  warm  in  summer,  and 
in  winter  mild,  with  now  and  then  a  few  severe  frosty 
and  stormy  days  and  nights.  The  winter  begins  in 
December  and  ends  in  February,  when  it  gradually 
gives  place  to  agreeable  spring  weather.  So  far  as  ex- 
perience has  gone,  the  western  portions  of  the  territory 


190        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

are  found  to  be  blessed  in  summer  with  an  almost  daily 
breeze  from  the  Rocky  Mountains,  which  is  so  cool  and 
refreshing  as  to  preclude  all  oppression  from  heat. 
The  wet  season  is  in  May  and  June,  and  then  the 
rivers  fill  and  some  overflow  their  banks.  The  fall  is 
the  dryest  portion  of  the  year.  Snow  in  winter  seldom 
exceeds  two  or  three  inches  in  depth,  and  soon  disap- 
pears. Cattle  can  subsist  on  the  prairies  throughout 
the  winter  without  artificial  shelter,  though  they  would 
do  better  under  cover.  The  greater  part  of  the  territo- 
ry is  healthy,  being  high  and  dry.  The  low,  marshy 
grounds  form  but  a  small  portion  of  the  territory,  and 
consequently  there  is  but  little  danger  from  malaria. 
Winds  come  pure  from  the  Rocky  Mountains,  Kanzas 
lying  wholly  west  of  the  swamps  which  abound  on  the 
Mississippi  and  Missouri  valleys. 

SURFACE  AND  SOIL. 

.  From  the  eastern  boundary  of  Missouri  to  the  base 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  face  of  the  country  is  a 
continual  succession  of  undulating  ridges  and  valleys. 
These  ridges  generally  run  north  and  south ;  they  are 
diverted  in  many  places  from  their  uniformity  by  the 
courses  of  streams  and  rivers.  The  eastern  portion, 
extending  from  80  to  200  miles  west  of  the  Missouri 
boundary,  is  the  most  available  for  agricultural  pur- 
poses. It  is  well,  though  not  abundantly,  timbered. 
It  has  a  limestone  basis,  and  the  surface  soil  varies 
from  two  to  six  feet  in  depth,  much  of  it  a  black  vege- 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  191 

table  mould,  superior  to  ordinary  prairie  soil.  Beyond 
this  district  there  is  a  gradual  deterioration  westward, 
and  beyond  Council  Grove  and  Sandy  Creek,  the  soil 
presents  a  sandy  appearance,  but  it  is  covered  with  the 
vine,  rushes,  &c. ;  the  basis  is  sandstone.  The  only 
trees  in  this  portion  of  the  -country  are  those  in  the 
valley  of  the  Kanzas  River.  They  are  chiefly  cotton- 
wood  and  willow.  This  character  of  soil  extends  from 
100  to  150  miles  westward,  and  beyond  it  the  soil  is  in 
good  part  composed  of  marl  and  earthy  limestone,  and 
so  is  well  adapted  for  corn,  wheat,  rye,  barley,  oats,  &c. 
There  are  table  lands,  elevated  from  15  to  50  feet 
above  the  ordinary  level,  with  perpendicular  sides. 
The  surfaces  of  these  elevations  are  flat,  and  some  of 
them  are  covered  with  mountain  cherry  and  other 
shrubs.  This  region  is,  however,  destitute  of  timber. 
This  is  but  a  narrow  belt  of  land,  and  beyond  it  is  a 
district  resembling  the  eastern  portion  of  the  territory. 
Along  the  base  of  the  Black  Hills  there  is  an  abun- 
dance of  timber  growing  on  a  broad  bank  of  fertile, 
finely-watered  soil.  The  scenery  here  is  very  fine,  and 
there  is  an  abundance  of  wild  fruits  and  flowers.  Be- 
tween the  Black  Hills  and  the  Rocky  Mountains  there 
is  every  variety  of  soil  and  aspect,  and  the  scenery  rises 
to  great  sublimity  and  grandeur.  It  is  adorned  with 
sparkling  rivulets  and  placid  lakes,  and  there  is  an 
amount  of  water  power  surpassing  that  of  any  settled 
portion  of  the  United  States. 

The  Republican  and  Smoky  Hill  Forks  take  their 
rise  from  the  snows  and  streams  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 


192        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

tains,  and  unite  to  form  the  Kanzas  River  on  the  39th 
degree  of  latitude  and  96th  degree  of  longitude.  This 
river  flows  eastward  to  its  mouth  in  39°  latitude  and 
96°  longitude.  The  valley  varies  from  20  to  40  miles 
in  width  near  its  mouth,  and  narrows  towards  its 
source.  The  timbers  which  grow  in  the  upper  portions 
of  the  two  great  forks  are  poplar,  cedar,  pine,  and 
other  trees  common  to  mountainous  districts.  The 
principal  trees  of  the  Kanzas  River  valley  are  hickory, 
oak,  walnut,  sugar  maple,  ash,  &c.  The  southern  por- 
tion of  the  territory  presents  great  advantages  for 
stock  raising  and  wool  growing,  as  the  animals  require 
little  or  no  shelter  during  the  winter,  and  the  expense 
of  building  sheds,  &c.,  can  be  dispensed  with.  In  the 
north  the  soil  is  said  to  be  perfect  for  agriculture, 
being  rich  and  retentive,  with  just  sand  enough  in  it 
to  make  it  easy  to  cultivate. 

AGKICULTUKE. 

It  is  impossible  at  present  to  give  any  correct  state- 
ments in  regard  to  the  productions  of  the  soil  in  Kan- 
zas, as  farming  is  yet  in  its  incipiency ;  but  the  un- 
paralleled richness  of  the  soil,  combined  with  the  rapid 
influx  of  population  from  the  Eastern  States,  leads  us 
to  believe  that  the  fertile  resources  of  this  embryo  state 
will  shortly  be  developed  to  an  extent  which  will  aston- 
ish the  great  farming  countries  in  the  Ohio  River,  and 
who  will  be  forced  to  give  up  the  princely  title  which 
they  have  arrogated  to  themselves  as  the  u  Granaries 
of  the  World." 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  193 

"We  are  enabled  to  present,  however,  what  is  of  more 
immediate  importance  to  those  contemplating  emigra- 
tion, and  who  wish  to  know  how  the  necessaries  of  life 
are'  sold,  a  correct  list  of  the 

PRICES  CURRENT. 

Lawrence,  September  22, 1855.  —  Corn,  f  1  25  cents 
a  bushel ;  corn  meal,  $  1  50  cents  for  50  pounds  ;  beans, 
$4  a  bushel ;  flour,  in  sacks,  $5  per  100  pouncfs  ;  super- 
fine, $5  50  cents.  Dried  peaches,  $3  50  cents  a  bushel ; 
butter,  fresh,  25  cents ;  beef,  7  and  9  cents  a  pound ; 
hams,  smoked,  15  cents ;  bacon,  12  cents ;  prime  pickled 
pork,  15  cents ;  lard,  12£  cents  a  pound ;  tallow,  19J 
cents  a  pound  ;  cheese,  15  and  20  cents  a  pound  ;  eggs, 
25  cents  a  dozen ;  salt,  coarse,  $1  50  cents  a  bushel ; 
sugar,  New  Orleans,  9  and  11  cents  ;  crushed,  15  cents ; 
white,  12  cents ;  molasses,  sugarhouse,  75  cents ;  golden 
sirup,  95  cents  ;  common,  70  cents  ;  rice,  12£  cents  a 
pound ;  crackers,  15  cents  a  pound  ;  codfish,  10  cents 
a  pound ;  coffee,  14  and  16§  cents  a  pound  ;  tea,  black, 
70  and  80  cents  a  pound  ;  green,  80  cents  and  $1 ;  to- 
bacco, 25  and  70  cents  a  pound ;  saleratus,  10  and  15 
cents  a  pound ;  bar  soap,  10  and  12  cents  a  pound ; 
coarse  boots,  $3  and  $3  50  cents  a  pair ;  blankets,  $2 
and  $14  ;  buffalo  robes,  $3  and  $8 ;  calicoes,  10  and 
16  cents  a  yard ;  delaines,  25  ancl  40  cents  a  yard ; 
sheetings,  coarse,  9  and  12  cents ;  domestic,  9  and  10 
cents  ;  bleached,  10  and  15  cents ;  lamp  oil,  $1  25  cents 
a  gallon;  burning  fluid,  $1  25  cents  a  gallon;  iron, 
17 


194        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

bar,  9  cents ;  round  and  square,  9  and  10  cents ;  nail 
rod,  12£  cents  ;  nails,  $8  per  cwt. ;  hides,  dried,  8  cents ; 
green,  4  cents ;  lumber,  $25  and  $35  per  1000  feet ; 
hard  wood,  $2  50  cents  a  cord ;  shot,  12^  cents  a  pound; 
lead,  10  cents ;  powder,  35  and  50  cents;  window  sash, 
8  and  10  cents  a  light. 

Stock  Market.  —  Beef  cattle,  from  5  to  6  cents; 
no  demand  for  stock ;  prices  at  a  stand  ;  mules  and 
horses  selling  at  liberal  prices ;  oxen  $80  to  $125  per 
yoke ;  mflch  cows,  $25  to  $40. 

MISSOURI  COMPROMISE. 

•On  the  18th  of  December,  1818,  the  petition  of  the 
legislature  of  Missouri  Territory,  asking  for  the  ad- 
mission of  that  territory  into  the  Union  as  a  state,  was 
presented  to  Congress.  A  bill  embodying  the  views  of 
the  petitioners  was  framed,  and  on  the  19th  of  Februa- 
ry an  amendment  prohibiting  the  further  introduction 
of  slavery  or  involuntary  servitude  was  adopted  by  a 
vote  of  87  to  76  in  the  House  of  Representatives.  On 
the  15th  of  March,  on  motion  of  James  Tallmadge,  of 
New  York,  an  amendment  providing  that  all  children 
born  within  said  state  after  its  admission  shall  be  free 
at  the  age  of  25  years  was  adopted  by  a  vote  of  79  to 
67.  The  Senate  refused  to  concur  in  these  two  amend- 
ments, "and  as  the  House  insisted  on  them,  the  bill  did 
not  pass  at  that  session. 

During  the  next  session  of  Congress,  the  Missouri  bill 
being  again  under  consideration,  Mr.  Thomas,  of  Illi- 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  195 

nois,  proposed,  on  the  18th  of  January,  1820,  the  fol- 
lowing amendment,  in  order  to  induce  the  House  to 
yield  their  purpose  of  preventing  the  further  introduc- 
tion of  slavery  into  Missouri :  — 

"  And  be  it  further  enacted.  That  in  all  that  territo- 
ry ceded  by  France  to  the  United  States,  under  the 
name  of  Louisiana,  which  lies  north  of  36°  30'  north 
latitude,  excepting  only  such  part  thereof  as  is  included 
within  the  limits  of  the  state  contemplated  by  this  act, 
slavery  and  involuntary  servitude,  otherwise  than  in 
the  punishment  of  crimes,  whereof  the  party  shall  have 
been  duly  convicted,  shall  be  and  is  hereby  forever  pro- 
hibited :  Provided  always,  That  any  person  escaping 
into  the  same  from  whom  labor  or  service  is  lawfully 
claimed  in  any  state  or  territory  of  the  United  States, 
such  fugitive  may  be  lawfully  reclaimed  and  conveyed 
to  the  person  claiming  his  or  her  labor  or  service  as 
aforesaid." 

This  proposition  had  the  desired  effect.  Mr.  Storrs, 
of  New  York,  proposed  the  same  amendment  in  the 
House,  and  it  was  adopted  on  the  1st  of  March,  1820, 
by  a  vote  of  91  to  82.  The  restrictions  on  slavery  in 
Missouri  were  given  up,  and  the  next  day  the  Senate 
adopted  this  celebrated  compromise  measure  without  a 
division.  The  question  of  substituting  this  compro- 
mise amendment  for  the  amendments  restricting  slavery 
in  Missouri  was  decided  in  the  affirmative  in  the  House 
by  a  vote  of  134  to  42.  The  same  proposition  in  the 
Senate  was  adopted  by  a  vote  of  33  to  11.  The  two 
houses  thus  concurring  with  each  other,  the  bill  passed, 
and  Missouri  was  to  be  admitted  as  a  slave  state  with- 


196        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

out  any  restriction  or  limitation  as  to  slavery,  on  the 
express  condition  that  slavery  should  be  forever  prohib- 
ited in  all  territory  of  the  United  States  north  of 
36°  30'. 

ORGANIZATION. 

The  bill  organizing  the  Territories  of  Kanzas  and 
Nebraska  was  the  greatest  and  most  absorbing  topic  of 
the  first  session  of  the  33d  Congress.  The  following 
are  its  most  important  features  :  — 

1.  It  repeals  the  Missouri  restriction,  declaring  it  to 
be  inconsistent  with  the  acts  of  1850,  known  as  the  com- 
promise measures. 

The  governor  and  judges  of  each  territory  are  to  be 
appointed  by  the  president  and  Senate. 

3.  The  bill  is  declared  not  to  revive  the  old  French 
laws  regarding  slavery. 

This  bill,  after  an  ever-memorable  contest,  passed 
the  Senate  on  the  4th  of  March,  1854,  by  a  vote  of  37 
to  14.  A  similar  bill  passed  the  House  of  Representa- 
tives on  the  morning  of  Tuesday,  May  23, 1854,  by  a 
vote  of  113  to  100. 

The  House  bill  passed  the  Senate  on  the  morning  of 
Tuesday,  May  27,  1854,  without  the  yeas  and  nays 
being  taken.  The  act  was  immediately  approved  by 
the  president. 

SQUATTER  LAWS. 

On  the  12th  of  August,  1854,  there  was  a  meeting 
of  settlers  held  at  the  house  of  Mr.  Miller,  at  Millers- 
burg,  when  the  Mutual  Settlers'  Association  of  Kan- 


THE   GREAT  WEST.  197 

zas  Territory  was  formed,  and  laws  for  the  mutual 
recognition  of  land  claims  under  due  restrictions  were 
agreed  to,  embracing  the  following  features  :  — 

1.  Recognizing  the  right  of  every  citizen  to  a  claim 
of  240  acres,  80  of  timber  and  160  of  prairie  land  ;  the 
claim  to  be  secured  by  improvement  and  residence, 

•  which  must  commence  within  sixty  days  from  the  entry 
of  the  claim,  on  either  the  prairie  or  timber,  land, 
which  is  to  secure  the  claim  to  both. 

2.  Single  persons  and  females  allowed  to  secure  their 
claims  by  residing  in  the  territory,  without  residing  on 
their  claims.     Persons  allowed  a  day  additional  to  the 
time  provided  above  for  every  five  miles  they  may  have 
to  travel  to  reach  their  families. 

3.  No  person  to  hold,  directly  or  indirectly,  more 
than  one  claim. 

4.  No  person  allowed  to  enter  any  previously  marked 
claim. 

5.  Persons  neglecting  to  improve  within  the  specified 
time  to  forfeit  their  claims,  which   can  then  be  taken 
up  by  any  other  citizen. 

6.  Any  person   to  point  out  the  extent  of  his  claim 
whenever  another  may  wish  to  ascertain  it. 

7.  Claimant  to  make  oath  that  his  claim  does  not  in- 
fringe on  that  of  any  other  person. 

8.  Form  of  application  for  registry  to  describe  the 
claim  and  date  of  its  selection. 

9.  On  the  survey  of  the  territory,  the  settlers  to  deed 
and  re-deed  to  each  other,  so  as   to  secure  to  each  the 
amount  of  land  specified  as  the  amount  of  claim. 

17* 


198        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OK 

10  to  13,  inclusive,  provide  for  the  appointment  of 
a  chief  justice,  a  register  and  marshal,  and  a  treasurer, 
and  define  their  duties. 

14.  The  limits  of  the  association  to  be  the  waters  of 
the  Wakarusa  and  Kanzas  Rivers,  and  the  territory 
between  the  same,  from  the  mouth  of  the  Wakarusa  up 
to  the  Shawnee  Purchase. 

15  to  21  provide  for  the  election  and  removal  of 
officers  by  a  majority  of  members,  and  other  incidental 
regulations. 

The  first  officers  elected  were,  chief  justice,  John 
A.  Wakefield ;  register,  J.  W.  Hayes  ;  marshal,  Wil- 
liam Lykins ;  treasurer,  William  Lyon. 

POPULATION. 

The  population  of  Kanzas,  in  March,  1855,  was  but 
a  little  over  8000.  In  March,  1856,  the  number  of  in- 
habitants amounted  to  something  over  45,000.  The 
never-ceasing  tide  of  human  beings,  men  with  wives 
and  families  as  well  as  adventurers,  who  are  pour- 
ing into  this  territory,  warrant  the  belief  that  the  cen- 
sus of  another  year  will  show  an  astonishing  advance 
upon  the  above  figures. 


LEAVENWORTH  CITY 

(39° .  20"  N.  latitude)  is  three  miles  below  Port  Leav- 
enworth,  on  lands  which  formerly  belonged   to   the 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  199 

Delaware  tribe  of  Indians.  The  location  was  surveyed 
in  the  fall  of  1854.  The  first  building  was  put  up  in 
October  j  and  the  first  shingles  laid  the  9th  day  of  the 
same  month.  It  has  grown  more  rapidly  than  any 
city  in  the  territory.  It  has  now  a  population  of  1600 
inhabitants.  There  are  37  stores,  4  churches,  4  schools, 
and  2  weekly  journals.  It  is  destined  to  become  tho 
commercial  metropolis  of  Kanzas.  2000  wagons  have 
been  loaded  with  army  stores  and  sent  from  Leavenworth 
to  different  points  in  the  interior.  Many  have  gone  be- 
yond the  Rocky  Mountains.  Limestone  and  bitumi- 
nous stone  coal  are  found  in  inexhaustible  abundance 
near  Leavenworth.  It  has  a  good  location,  and  good 
steamboat  landing.  Pilot  Knob,  one  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful portions  of  the  natural  scenery,  is  l£  mile  back 
from  the  city.  It  is  said  to  be  400  feet  above  the  Mis- 
souri River,  and  it  can  be  seen  at  a  distance  of  12  miles 
from  the  city.  The  cemetery  for  Leavenworth  is  on  the 
top  of  this  hill.  It  is  ascended  by  a  circuitous  route 
ascending  a  ravine. 

LAWRENCE 

is  about  35  miles  from  the  mouth  of  Kanzas  River.  It 
has  a  beautiful  location,  and  will  be  the  second  city  of 
importance  in  the  territory.  It  has  now  800  inhabit- 
ants, 3  presses,  9  stores,  2  churches,  and  3  saw  mills. 
The  country  surrounding  it  is  mostly  prairie  of  a 
gradually  undulating  surface,  and  extremely  rich  and 
fertile  soil.  Stone  coal  and  limestone  are  abundant. 


200        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

An  extensive  bed  of  gypsum  exists  near  Lawrence.  It 
is  famous  for  being  the  seat  of  war  iii  the  late  Kanzas 
war. 

'  -  i 
FORT  LEAVENWORTH 

was  built  in  1827.  The  first  steamboat  ascended  to 
this  point  in  1829,  to  the  great  surprise  of  the  Indians, 
who  had  never  seen  any  thing  of  the  kind  before.  Prior 
to  that  time  the  army  stores  were  conveyed  in  wagons 
through  Missouri,  or  poled  up  the  Missouri  River  in 
flat  boats.  It  took  its  name  from  General  Leavenworth, 
of  the  U.  S.  Army.  Major  Ogden  was  the  next  com- 
mander at  Leavenworth,  and  principally  through  his 
exertions  the  large  warehouse,  steamboat  landing,  and 
most  of  the  important  improvements  were  made.  He 
died  of  cholera  at  Fort  Riley  in  the  summer  of  1855,  at 
a  time  when  his  active  mind  was  maturing  plans  for 
building  new  military  roads,  and  improving  old  ones 
by  building  bridges,  &c.  In  him  the  army  as  well  as 
the  territory  lost  one  of  its  most  enterprising  men.  His 
remains  were  taken  to  Unadilla,  N.  Y.,  where  his 
friends  will  raise  a  monument  sacred  to  his  memory. 
A  monument  has  been  raised  at  Fort  Riley.  The 
government  farm  at  Leavenworth  contains  about  1800 
acres,  mostly  enclosed  and  under  a  good  state  of  culti- 
vation. Colonel  E.  V.  Sumner  is  the  present  com- 
mander. The  number  of  soldiers  now  stationed  at 
Leavenworth  is  about  900.  The  quarterly  disburse- 
ments for  1855  were  about  $34,000. 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  201 

; ., 

TOPECA 

is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  Kanzas  River,  equidis- 
tant from  Fort  Riley  and  the  mouth  ol  Kanzas  River. 
'It  is  beautifully  situated,  and  is  surrounded  by  an 
excellent  agricultural  country.  Its  population  is  300. 
The  buildings  are  mostly  of  limestone,  freestone,  and 
concrete.  This  may  be  said  to  be  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  cities  in  the  territory,  an  isle  of  beauty.  It 
is  the  seat  of  government  for  the  free  state  party,  and 
the  place  where  the  delegates,  forty-two  in  number, 
assembled  and  framed  the  constitution,  asking  to  be 
admitted  into  the  Union  as  a  free  state. 

FORT   RILEY 

is  situated  at  the  junction  of  the  Republican  Fork  and 
Smoky  Hill,  forming  the  Kanzas  River,  east  of  the  Re- 
publican Fork,  and  one  mile  from  Kanzas  River,  (not 
between  the  two  rivers.)  The  buildings  are  built  of 
limestone^  of  a  whitish,  chalky  appearance,  resembling 
marble.  This  Kanzas  marble  exists  in  abundance,  and 
makes  very  beautiful  and  substantial  buildings. 

MANHATTAN, 

at  the  junction  of  the  Big  Blue  and  Kanzas  Rivers. 
This  city  possesses  advantages  superior  to  any  in  the 
interior  of  Kanzas,  and  will,  no  doubt,  be  the  terminus 


202        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

of  the  Pacific  Railroad  for  some  years.  It  lias  a  good 
country  surrounding  it,  and  an  abundance  of  timber, 
coal,  limestone,  and  agricultural  land. 


FRANKLIN, 

5  miles  south  of  Lawrence,  has   about   60    houses, 
churches,  and  mills,  and  is  1  mile  from  Waukasoo. 


GRASSHOPPER   FALLS 

is  situated  on  Sawtelle  River,  a  tributary  of  Kansas, 
and  forms  its  confluence  with  Kanzas  10  miles  above 
Lawrence.  It  is  on  the  direct  route  to  Topeca,  Man- 
hattan, and  Fort  Riley,  from  Leavenworth.  It  has  an 
excellent  water  power,  and  the  only  one  north  of 
Kanzas  River.  The  entire  fall  in  the  river  is  10  feet ; 
the  perpendicular  fall  3  feet.  There  are  now  a  saw 
mill,  flouring  mill,  lath  mill,  and  turning  mill.  It 
has  about  200  inhabitants,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  good 
country.  Its  distance  from  Leavenworth  is  28  miles. 

OSAWATOMIE 

is  on  the  Osage  River,  about  28  miles  west  of  the  Mis- 
souri state  line.  It  has  a  population  of  200,  is  a  thriv- 
ing village,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  good  country. 


THE   GREAT  WEST.  203 

KICKAPOO 

has  a  population  of  350,  is  a  thriving  city,  and  has  ex- 
tensive coal  beds  in  its  neighborhood. 

ATCHISON, 

on  the  west  bank  of  the  Missouri,  25  miles  above  Fort 
Leavenworth.  Population,  300  ;  good  steamboat  land- 
ing ;  country  surrounding  it,  rolling ;  thriving  city. 

DONAPHIN, 

31  miles  above  Fort  Leavenworth,  has  a  good  location ; 
good  steamboat  landing,  and  a  very  thriving  city. 
Population,  350. 


INFORMATION  TO  KANZAS  EMIGRANTS. 


OFFICE  OF  THE  N.  E.  EMIGRANT  AID  Co.,  ) 
No.  3  Winter  Street,  Boston,  1856.         5 
THOMAS  H.  WEBB,  Secretary. 

In  answer  to  the  numerous  inquiries  respecting  Kanzas,  daily  addressed 
to  the  secretary,  both  by  letter  and  in  person,  the  following  has  been  pre- 
pared, which  contains  as  concise  and  definite  replies  as  can  conveniently 
be  furnished  at  short  notice.  It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  say  that  no  methodic 
arrangement  has  been  attempted.  We  would  premise  that  — 

The  Company  has  not  endeavored,  neither  does  it  now  endeavor,  to  entice 
people  to  go  to  Kanzas,  —  it  has  not  paid,  neither  does  it  intend  to  pay,  in 
whole  or  in  part,  the  expenses  of  transporting  individuals  to,  or  of  supporting 
them  after  their  arrival  in,  the  territory. 

Its  course  has  been  and  still  is,  to  use  all  the  means  in  its  power  to  collect 
the  best  and  most  reliable  information  relative  to  the  territory,  and  furnish 
the  same  to  those  desiring  it.  Each  individual,  having  received  and  duly 


204        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

weighed  the  information,  must  then  decide  for  himself  whether  or  not  it 
is  advisable  to  immigrate.  If  the  decision  be  to  'go,  the  company  will  do  all 
in  its  power  to  speed  him  on  his  destined  way,  and  afford  him  such  facilities 
in  locating  as  it  may  from  time  to  time  be  enabled  to  do.  The  principal 
advantages  to  be  derived  through  the  company  are,  diminution  in  the  rates 
of  fare,  —  protection,  as  far  as  possible,  from  the  imposition  practised  on 
the  unwary,  by  runners,  speculators,  and  others,  —  advice,  through  agents 
in  Kanzas,  relative  to  selecting  suitable  sites  for  settlements,  and  (what 
we  deem  the  paramount  advantage)  the  opportunity  of  forming  commu- 
nities at  once,  and  thus  early  enjoying  all  the  benefits  resulting  from 
association,  instead  of  locating,  as  is  usually  the  case,  at  wide-spread  dis- 
tances, and  in  consequence  generations  passing  by  before  any  of  the  benefits 
and  privileges  of  settlements  can  be  realized.  Beyond  extending  these  fa- 
cilities the  company  does  not  pledge  itself,  though,  if  its  appeal  to  the 
public  be  satisfactorily  responded  to,  it  will  do  whatever  may  be  in  its 
power,  in  the  way  of  improvements,  to  promote  the  welfare  and  advance 
the  prosperity  of  such  settlements  as  originate  under  its  auspices. 

Time  of  Departure.  —  The  first  regular  spring  party  will  leave  Boston  for 
Kanzas  as  early  in  March  as  the  state  of  the  Missouri  River  navigation  will 
render  practicable ;  and  subsequently  parties  will  leave  at  least  weekly 
throughout  the  season,  or  until  notice  be  given  to  the  contrary. 

Fare.  —  The  passage  fare  for  each  adult,  from  here  to  Kanzas  City,*  Mo., 
or  to  Leavenworth,t  K.  T.,  will  be  about  forty  dollars,  until  the  summer 
arrangement  of  railroads  and  steamboats  is  made,  after  which  it  will  be 
somewhat  less  ;  for  children  between  the  ages  of  12  and  4  years,  half  price  ; 
under  4  years,  passage  free  ;  over  12  years,  full  price.'  Tickets  must  be  pro- 
cured at  this  office,  or  through  some  authorized  agent  of  the  company. 

Meals  and  Lodging.  —  These  from  St.  Louis  to  Kanzas  City  are  included 
in  the  price  above  stated;  but  both  are  extra  charges  prior  to  reaching  St. 
Louis.J 

The  parties  will  spend  the  first  night  at  Albany,  if  the  western  route,  — 
at  Rutland,  if  the  Fitchburg  route  is  taken  ;  lodging  and  breakfast,  75  cents. 
If  the  New  York  and  Erie  Railroad  route  is  selected,  the  first  night  may  be 
spent  on  board  of  a  Sound  steamboat,  which  will  afford  an  opportunity  for  a 
good  night's  rest  after  the  fatigue  and  excitement  preceding  and  attendant 
upon  departure.  Thus  refreshed,  the  remainder  of  the  journey  can  be  ac- 
complished with  comparative  ease.  The  cost  of  boat  meals,  fifty  cents  each. 
Subsequently,  accidents  excepted,  the  journey,  whichever  route  is  selected, 
will  be  continued  uninterruptedly  to  St.  Louis,  unless  a  Sunday  inter- 
venes. 

*  Kanzas  City  is  near  the  border  of  the  territory,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas  River. 
Here  parties  disembark,  and  make  the  necessary  arrangements  for  going,  at  their  own 
expense,  to  that  section  of  Kanzas  Territory  where,  by  the  advice  of  the  company's 
agents,  or  their  own  choice,  they  decide  to  locate. 

f  Those  who  intend  settling  north  of  the  Kanzas  or  Kaw  River  had,  perhaps,  better 
continue  up  the  Missouri  River  as  far  as  Leavenworth,  and  there  disembark  and  com- 
plete their  outfit. 

J  On  this  part  of  the  ronte  regular  meals,  as  at  hotels,  cannot  be  had,  and  should  not 
be  expected ;  as  on  all  other  railroad  routes,  at  way  stations  persons  have  an  opportu- 
nity of  taking  a  lunch,  or  of  purchasing  various  articles  of  food,  so  that  the  cost  need  not 
average  more  than  25  cents  the  meal,  and  the  whole  expense  to  St.  Louis  ought  not  to 
exceed  $5.  Persons  having  families  with  them  can  materially  lessen  their  expenses  by 
taking  along,  in  a  tin  can,  a  boiled  ham,  or  some  corned  beef,  crackers,  and  cheese,  &c. 
They  should  by  all  means  carry,  or  procure  at  St.  Louis,  a  canteen,  gourd,  leather 
tank,  or  other  water  holder,  that  may  be  readily  handled  and  not  easily  broken.  With 
a  little  trouble  this  may  be  replenished  with  fresh  spring  water  at  most  of  the  boat 
landings.  Thus  supplied,  there  will  be  no  necessity  of  drinking  the  Missouri  River 
water,  a  too  free  indulgence  in  which  is  one  great  cause  of  the  prevalence  of  bowel  com- 
plaints among  travellers  in  that  region. 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  205 

The  first  parties  will  necessarily  go  most  of  the  distance  to  St.  Louis  by 
railroad.  As  soon  as  the  Lake  Erie  navigation  reopens,  that  route  will  be 
preferable,  as  it  will  afford  an  opportunity  for  a  second  night's  rest. 

Amount  of  Baggage.  — Each  whole  ticket  entitles  the  holder  to  carry  100 
Ibs.  of  baggage ;  half-price  ticket,  50  Ibs.  All  excess  will  be  charged  at  the 
rate  of  from  $3  to  $4  per  100  Ibs.  If  sent  as  freight,  the  charge  will  be,  from 
here  to  St.  Louis,  $2  50  per  100  Ibs.  In  either  case,  from  St.  Louis  to  Kan- 
zas City  the  cost  will  vaiy  from  ^  of  a  cent  to  2£  cents  the  pound,  according 
to  the  season  of  the  year  and  the  competition  prevailing. 

Packing  and  Directing.  — All  baggage  should  be  packed  in  trunks,  chests, 
or  very  moderate  sized,  well-made  boxes,  with  strong  handles ;  in  no  case 
should  large  boxes,  barrels,  or  rickety  packages  of  any  kind  be  used.  The 
owner's  name  and  place  of  destinatiqn  should  be  conspicuously  marked  on 
his  baggage,  and,  in  addition,  the  following  in  large  letters :  — 

KANZAS    PARTY'S    BAGGAGE. 

Checks  for  Baggage. — Those  who  join  the  parties  at  Boston,  or  at  any 
place  on  the  route  selected,  where  the  baggage  is  checked,  must  be  sure  to 
have  it  attended  to,  and  to  receive  the  duplicate  or  counter  check  from  the 
baggage  master. 

Change  of  Baggage.  — Whenever  on  the  route  a  change  of  baggage  is  to 
take  place,  each  individual  should,  for  the  greater  security,  personally  see 
that  his  own  is  carried  with  the  rest  to  the  railroad  or  boat,  as  the  case  may 
be.  If  mislaid,  prompt  notice  should  be  given  to  the  agent  having  charge 
of  the  party,  that  he  may  at  once  notify  the  conductor,  or  other  suitable 
railroad  or  steamboat  officer. 

Freight.  —  When  freight  is  to  be  sent,  the  owner  or  his  agent  should  ob- 
tain from  the  transportation  or  forwarding  agent  at  Boston,  or  at  the  other 
places  of  forwarding,  a  receipt  in  duplicate  for  its  safe  delivery  at  St.  Louis. 
On  the  owner's  arrival  at  St.  Louis,  if,  in  advance  of  the  freight,  he  should 
leave  one  of  the  receipts  with  some  forwarding  house,  that  of  Messrs.  F.  A 
Hunt  &  Co.,  No.  19  Levee,  is  recommended,  who  will  take  charge  of  ship- 
ping it  to  Kanzas  City  or  Leavenworth,  for  the  usual  commission.  The 
owner  should  not  pay  freightage  until  the  goods  are  delivered  to  him  or  his 
order,  at  the  place  designated. 

The  packages,  if  to  be  sent  by  the  Michigan  Central  or  Great  Western 
Railroad  route,  should  be 

[Owner's  name  here.] 

,    ,   I   W.$C.  Kanzas  City, 

marked  I     „  '„  Care  of  c  &  M  £  R  ? 

Chicago. 

To  the  care  of 

F.  A.  Hunt  &  Co.,  19  Levee,  St.  Louis. 

If  the  Lake  Shore  Railroad  be  preferred,  substitute  (in  the  square)  the 
following,  viz., 

Lake  Shore  Route. 

,  Time  Contract. 

Packages  marked  as  above  can  be  forwarded  from  the  freight  depot  of  the 
Western  Railroad,  Lincoln  Street.  If  forwarded  from  the  Fichburg  freight 
depot,  substitute  (in  the  square)  "  N."  for  "  W.,"  or  prefix  "American" 
to  "  Lake  Shore  Route." 

If  the  New  York  and  Erie  Railroad  is  preferred,  substitute  (in  the  square) 
"N.  Y.  &  E."  for  "  W.  &  C.,"  and  send  the  packages  to  the  Providence 
Railroad  Depot,  Pleasant  Street,  near  the  foot  of  the  Common. 

18 


206        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 


All  articles  not  immediately  wanted  had  better,  for  economy's  sake,  be 
sent  as  freight.  The  charge  per  100  Ibs.,  from  Boston  to  St.  Louis,  will  be 
about  $2  50  ;  average  time,  18  days. 

Shipping  Freight.  —  It  will  be  still  more  economical,  and  far  better  where 
the  quantity  of  freight  is  large,  to  ship  it  to  NBAV  Orleans,  and  thence  send 
it  by  steamer  to  St.  Louis.  In  this  case,  mark,  as  before,  with  name  and 
destination,  and,  in  addition,  "  Care  of  E.  M.  Daly  &  Co.,  New  Orleans,  to 
be  forwarded  to  F.  A.  Hunt  &  Co.,  No.  19  Levee,  St.  Louis."  Such  freight 
left  with  Messrs.  Allen  &  Weltch,  No.  129  State  Street,  Boston,  will  be  duly 
shipped.  Freight  to  New  Orleans,  5  to  6  cents  per  cubic  foot ;  $2  to  $3  per 
ton ;  barrels,  capable  of  holding  159  Ibs.,  25  to  30  cents  each.  Cost  from 
New  Orleans  to  St.  Louis,  about  50  cents  the  100  Ibs.  Time,  usually  20 
days  to  New  Orleans,  and  about  the  same  thence  to  St.  Louis.  Insurance 
the  whole  distance,  2£  per  cent. 

No  Pledge  Required. — The  emigrants  come  under  no  written  or  verbal 
obligation  or  pledge  to  the  company ;  they  leave  here  free  agents,  and  it  is 
hoped  they  will  continue  so  to  be.  Still,  knowing  that  the  great  object  is  to 
secure  freedom  for  all,  it  is  presumed  that  no  one  will  be  so  dishonest  as  to 
avail  of  the  advantages  and  privileges  that  may  be  secured  through  the 
company's  means,  and  then  war  against  its  principles. 

If,  however,  parties  entertaining  adverse  sentiments  desire  to  be  forwarded 
by  the  company,  it  will  be  done  cheerfully,  under  the  full  conviction  that 
when  they  see  the  great  benefits  and  decided  advantages  resulting  from  free 
labor,  a  great  majority  of  them  will  become  worthy  and  efficient  allies. 

The  company  does  expect,  however,  that  all  who  go  out  under  its  aus- 
pices will  do  so  with  the  intention  of  becoming  actual  settlers. 

Neither  is  it  necessary  for  an  individual  who  purposes  removing  to  Kan- 
zas  to  become  a  member  of  the  company,  in  order  to  join  one  of  its  parties. 
Unless  such  a  one  has  ample  means,  instead  of  subscribing  for  stock,  let 
him  husband  his  means,  in  order  to  make  them  as  available  as  possible  after 
he  arrives  at  his  new  abode. 

What  to  take  and  where  to  buy.  —  Most  articles  not  owned  had  better  not 
be  purchased  prior  to  reaching  St.  Louis  or  Kanzas  City.  Good  clothing 
suited  for  service,  not  show,  such  as  is  adapted  for  this  section  of  the  coun- 
try, also  bedding,  (not  beds,  on  account  of  their  bulk,)  and  perhaps  some 
choice  articles  of  furniture,  had  better  be  sent  along  ;  but  most  of  the  ne- 
cessaries for  housekeeping,  also  agricultural  implements,  &c.,  can  be  ob- 
tained on  reasonable  terms  at  the  places  above  designated.  Indeed,  all 
ordinary  articles  of  housekeeping,  husbandry,  &c.,  may  be  now  obtained  in 
Lawrence,  Leavenworth,  and  probably  some  other  settlements  within  the 
territory,  on  as  reasonable  terms  as  elsewhere.  Mechanics  who  will  require 
their  tools  immediately  had  better  take  them  along  at  baggage  prices ;  time 
being  to  them  money,  they  will  save  by  this  course. 

Cattle.  — The  price  of  good  working  cattle,  horses,  cows,  &c.,  is  nearly  the 
same  in  Kanzas  and  its  vicinity  as  in  New  England  ;  perhaps  rather  cheaper. 
The  price  of  cows  has  heretofore  ranged  from  $25  to  $35  ;  oxen,  per  yoke, 
from  $50  to  $100;  horses  from  $75  to  $100  each ;  common  sheep  from  $1 
50  to  $2  50  each. 

Consult  Company1  s  Agents.  —  In  regard  to  these  and  other  purchases,  as 
well  as  for  information  about  the  territory,  desirable  places  for  settlement, 
&c.,  parties,  on  their  arrival  at  Kanzas  City,  are  recommended  to  consult 
Samuel  C.  Pomeroy,  Esq.,  one  of  the  company's  agents,  who  will  at  all 
times  cheerfully  and  promptly  furnish  reliable  information,  and  conscien- 
tiously advise  them  how,  in  his  judgment,  they  are  most  likely  to  advance 
their  own  interests,  and  aid  in  accomplishing  the  prime  object  had  in  view 
by  the  company.  Dr.  Charles  Robinson,  at  Lawrence,  now  favorably  known 
to  the  public  by  his  judicious  course  and  discreet  management  during  the 
late  invasion  of  that  settlement,  and  Charles  H.  Branscomb,  Esq.,  both 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  207 


active,  highly  efficient,  and  perfectly  reliable  agents,  will  counsel  and  ad- 
vise all  who  apply  to  them;  and  any  other  agents  who  may  be  from  time 
to  time  employed,  will  be  instructed  to  offer  every  facility  that  consistently 
can  be  done  to  all  who  migrate  under  the  company's  auspices. 

Means.  —  As  regards  the  amount  of  means  requisite  to  make  a  person 
11  comfortable,"  people  will  vary  in  their  estimate,  according. to  their  ideas 
of  what  constitutes  comfort.  With  $100  clear  of  expenses  wherewith  to 
commence  territorial  life,  a  person  of  good  moral  habits  and  reasonable  and 
moderate  desires,  should  be  able  always  to  keep  above  want,  whatever  pur- 
suit or  avocation  he  may  follow,  whether  that  of  a  farmer,  mechanic,  or 
laborer;  provided  he  is  blessed  with  ordinary  health,  and  proves  active, 
energetic,  and  industrious. 

Land,  how  acquired.  —  The  land  is  to  be  purchased  of  the  United  States, 
at  $1  25  per  acre ;  160  acres  and  no  more  can  be  taken,  and  this  only  by  an 
actual  settler  in  person;  the  individual  must  be  a  citizen  of  the  United 
States,  or  have  filed  the  declaration  of  intention  to  become  such,  and  either 
be  the  head  of  a  family,  or  a  widow,  or  a  single  man,  over  the  age  of  21  years. 
Payment  may  be  made  at  any  time  after  the  government  survey  has  been 
completed,  but  need  not  be  until  immediately  prior  to  the  commencement 
of  the  public  sale  in  that  district  where  the  person  has  fixed  his  location  ; 
the  money  cannot  be  paid  portions  at  a  time;  locations  may  be  made  any 
where  save  on  the  government  or  Indian  reserves,  or  on  certain  tracts  which 
by  law  are  exempted  from  the  operations  of  the  preemption  act ;  the  indi- 
vidual must  be  an  inhabitant  of  the  tract,  and  in  person  have  made  a  set- 
tlement, and  erected  a  dwelling  thereon  ;  within  three  months  after  it  has 
been  surveyed  by  the  United  States  it  must  be  duly  entered  at  the  registry 
office  of  the  district  within  which  it  is  located. 

The  commissioner  of  the  general  land  office  has  prescribed  the  subjoined 
form,  for  the  information  of  those  who  desire  to  avail  of  the  right  to  secure 
land  under  the  preemption  law.  This  form  of  declaration  may  be  written 
or  printed,  must  be  signed  by  the  applicant,  in  presence  of  a  witness,  who 
must  certify  to  it  by  his  signature,  and  it  must  then  be  delivered  at  or  trans- 
mitted to  the  office  of  ttfie  territorial  surveyor-general.  No  variation  must 
be  made  in  the  form,  which  is  as  follows,  viz. :  — 

DECLARATORY  STATEMENT  FOR  CASES  WHERE  THE  LAND  IS  NOT 
SUBJECT  TO  PRIVATE  ENTRY. 

I, .  of ,  being have,  on  the day  of ,  A.  D.  18 — ,  settled  and  im- 
proved the quarter  of  section  number ,  in  township  number ,  of  range 

number ,  in  the  district  of  lands  subject  to  sale  at  the  land  office  at ,  and  con- 
taining   acres,  which  land  has  not  yet  been  offered  at  public  sale,  and  thus  rendered 

subject  to  private  entry ;  and  I  do  hereby  declare  my  intention  to  claim  the  said  tract 
of  land  as  a  preemption  right,  under  the  provisions  of  said  act  of  4th  September,  1841. 

Given  under  my  hand,  this day  of ,  A.  D.  18 — . 

In  presence  of .  . 

When  the  above  declaration  is  filed,  there  will  be  issued  from  the  survey- 
or general's  office  a  certificate  similar  to  the  subjoined,  viz. :  — 

No. SURVEYOR  GENERAL'S  OFFICE,  K.  T. 

,  185—. 

I  certify  that has  this  day  filed  in  my  office  a  notice  in  accordance  with  the 

12th  section  of  the  a*ct  establishing  the  Office  of  the  Surveyor  General  of  Kanzas  and  Ne- 
braska, and  granting  preemption  rights  to  actual  settlers  for  the quarter  of  sec- 
tion number  in  township  number  in  range  number east  of  the  6th 

Principal  Meridian  in Territory. 

,  Surveyor  General  of  Kanzas  and  Nebraska. 

To  quiet  the  fears  of  those  who  apprehend  that  all  of  the  desirable  por- 
tions of  the  territory  have  been,  or  in  a  short  time  will  be,  secured,  it  may 


208        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 


be  sufficient  to  say  that  there  are  millions  of  acres  from  which  farm  lots 
may  now  be  selected,  and  that  the  quantity  of  land  open  to  preemption  is 
sufficient  to  accommodate  75,000  families,  embracing  half  a  million  of  indi- 
viduals. It  contains  an  area  of  114,798  sqiiare  miles  ;  it  is  3  times  as  large 
as  Ohio,  and  14  times  the  size  of  Massachusetts.  It  is  capable  of  being 
divided  into  10  states,  representing,  in  number  of  square  miles,  Maine,  Ver- 
mont, New  Hampshire,  Massachusetts,  Rhode  Island,  Connecticut,  New 
Jersey,  Delaware,  Maryland,  and  South  Carolina.  Although,  therefore,  the 
farm  lots  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of,  perhaps  for  miles  around  Lawrence, 
and  some  other  of  the  earlier  settlements,  may  be,  and  probably  are,  ere  this, 
secured,  there  is  a  plenty  of  as  good  ones  awaiting  new  comers.  Let  them 
found  other  New  England  or  rather  liberty-loving  settlements  of  a  similar 
character.  To  effect  this  requires  neither  magic  nor  supernatural  power ; 
New  England  energy,  industry,  and  perseverance,  seconded  by  the  efforts  of 
true  sons  of  liberty,  who  went  forth  from  various  sections  of  the  Union, 
brought  the  one,  and  can  bring  others  into  existence.  Various  sites  for  such 
settlements  have  been  selected,  and  on  application  will  be  designated  by  the 
company's  agents. 

Wood  and  Timber.  —  To  the  oft  made  inquiry,  Is  there  an  abundance  of 
timber  in  the  territory  ?  the  answer  must  be  modified  somewhat  according 
to  the  hailing-place  of  the  interrogator.  If  he  be  from  Maine,  we  should 
reply,  no  ;  if  from  Illinois,  we  should  answer,  there  is  a  fair  supply.  In. 
other  words,  there  is  not  an  extreme  scarcity,  and  there  is  far  from  an  over- 
abundance of  wood ;  sufficient  can  be  procured  on  reasonable  terms  for  all 
ordinary  purposes.  The  advantage  resulting  from  the  limited  supply  is  far 
greater  than  the  disadvantage ;  for  the  consequence  is  a  freedom  from  roots 
and  stumps,  the  frequent  occurrence  of  which,  in  many  sections  of  our 
country,  proves  a  serious  inconvenience  to  the  agriculturist,  and  requires 
for  removal  an  expenditure  of  much  time,  money,  and  labor,  in  order  to 
place  the  ground  in  an  arable  condition.  The  law  of  compensation  is  here 
found  admirably  exemplified,  as  the  under  supply  of  wood  for  fuel  is  more 
than  made  good  by  the  vast  deposits  of  bituminous  coal  known  to  exist  in 
the  territory  ;  the  under  supply  of  timber  for  building  purposes  is  remedied 
by  the  abundance  of  lime  and  clay;  the  deficiency  of  fencing  stuff  by 
suitable  material  for  walls  ;  and  in  a  few  years,  should  the  Osage  orange 
be  cultivated,  which  will  grow  luxuriantly,  hedges  will  supersede  the  neces- 
sity of  any  other  means  for  forming  enclosures. 

Though  timber,  to  a  person  from  a  lumber  region,  would  seem  scarce,  the 
scarcity  is  not  one  that  will  necessarily  be  constantly  on  the  increase  as  set- 
tlements multiply  and  the  lands  are  reclaimed  from  their  present  state,  in- 
asmuch as  the  limited  growth  arises,  not  from  uncongeniality  of  climate,  un- 
suitableness  of  soil,  or  absence  of  seed,  but  from  the  frequent  prevalence,  year 
after  year,  of  vast  prairie  fires  that  sweep  every  thing  before  them,  and  thus 
stint  or  entirely  prevent  the  growth  of  tree  or  shrub.  Arrest  the  fires,  and 
woodlands  will  soon  abound.  Small,  however,  as  the  proportion  of  wood- 
land is  said  to  be,  one  of  the  company's  agents  found  no  difficulty  in  con- 
tracting for  600  cords  of  standing  wood  at  25  cents  per  cord,  and  600  logs 
of  timber  at  50  cents  per  log,  the  logs  averaging  half  a  thousand  each.  The 
price  has  somewhat  advanced  since,  in  consequence  of  the  greatly  increased 
demand  ;  still  purchases  can  be  made  at  fair  rates.  The  Herald  of  Freedom 
of  January  26,  1856,  says,  "  If  those  who  listened  to  the  reports  of  returning 
pioneers  last  spring,  that  there  was  '  no  timber  in  Kansas,'  could  see  the 
large  logs  brought  to  one  of  the  mills  in  town  the  other  day,  measuring  5  feet 
in  diameter,  and  cutting  three  12  feet  logs  from  the  same  tree,  the  smallest 
measuring  3  feet  in  diameter,  they  would  conclude  there  was  but  little  con- 
fidence to  be  placed  in  similar  reports.  It  is  true  there  is  not  an  over-supply 
of  timber  here  ;  but  if  what  we  have  was  equally  divided  among  the  settlers, 
there  would  be  enough  for  all  practical  purposes  for  many  years,  or  until 
another  crop  can  be  grown." 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  209 


The  principal  varieties  of  wood  are  bass  or  linwood,  cottonwood,  hickory, 
oak,  black  walnut,  ash,  sycamore,  hackberry,  £c. 

Weather.  —  This  of  course  cannot  reasonably  be  expected  to  be  uniformly 
the  same  all  years,  for  corresponding  seasons.  The  same  variations  that  are 
experienced  elsewhere  must  be  looked  for  and  provided  against  in  Kanzas  ; 
though  we  believe,  as  a  general  rule,  the  variations  there  will  be  less  fre- 
quent and  extreme  than  they  are  liable  to  be  in  this  section  of  the  country. 
There  was  a  striking  contrast  in  regard  to  the  degree  of  coldness  at  Lawrence 
the  last  and  preceding  winter.  At  Lawrence  during  the  winter  of  1854-'55, 
there  was  not  necessarily  any  severe  or  long-continued  suffering  from  the 
inclemency  of  the  weather.  Governor  Reeder  stated  that  a  fire  was  not 
needed  the  last  of  December,  1854;  and  a  resident  at  the  company's  set- 
tlement writes  that  "  on  the  27th  of  December  mechanics  and  others  were 
comfortably  at  work  in  the  open  air  without  their  coats,  whilst  the  few 
idlers  were  basking  in  the  sun  like  snakes  in  June."  There  was  not,  how- 
ever, an  entire  freedom  from  cold  and  stormy  weather.  Up  to  the  close  of 
the  year,  there  occurred  but  one  fall  of  snow,  which  was  to  the  depth  of  two 
inches,  and  disappeared  in  three  days ;  in  January,  1855,  only  five  inches 
of  snow  fell. 

A  gentleman,  who  had  resided  at  one  of  the  Missions  for  fifteen  years, 
said  the  greatest  depth  of  snow  at  any  one  time  during  that  long  period 
was  six  inches. 

During  the  season  above  alluded  to,  there  was  no  frost  in  the  ground 
before  the  close  of  December ;  frost  generally  disappears  by  the  beginning 
of  March. 

According  to  thermometrical  tables  carefully  kept  at  Lawrence  by  Dr.  H. 
Clark,  the  average  temperature  in  November,  1854,  at  sunrise,  was  29°  F. ; 
at  1  o'clock,  P.  M.,  49£°  ;  and  at  |  of  an  hour  past  sunset  44^°.  The  av- 
erage in  December,  1854,  at  the  same  periods,  were  25^°,  49°,  and  42°;  and 
in  January,  1855,  23°,  39°,  and  32£°. 

The  Kanzas  Herald  of  Freedom,  under  the  date  of  February  10,  1855, 
says,  "  But  once  has  the  mercury  gone  down  to  zero  ;  and  by  those  long  on 
the  ground  we  are  assured  that  this  is  an  uncommon  occurrence ;  while  the 
mean  of  all  the  observations  will  average  only  at  the  freezing  point. 
Where,  we  would  ask,  could  a  more  delightful  temperature  be  found  ? 
None  who  have  designed  to  make  Kanzas  their  homes  need  be  deterred 
from  coming  from  any  fear  in  respect  to  extreme  cold.  When  the  time  shall 
arrive  that  we  shall  be  surrounded  with  the  comforts  and  conveniences  of  the 
older  states,  such  a  thing  as  discomfort  on  this  account  will  be  unknown." 

During  the  past  winter  (1855-'56)  there  has  been  some  very  severe  weather 
in  the  territory.  A  portion  of  December  and  January  proved  colder  than 
has  any  corresponding  period  for  more  than  20  years.  Under  date  of  De- 
cember 29,  the  editor  of  the  Herald  of  Freedom  writes,  the  thermometer 
has  ranged  between  zero  and  22°  below  that  point  for  the  last  week,  for 
which  he  cannot  account,  excepting  upon  the  supposition  "  that  the  weather 
table  of  the  latitude  of  Quebec  has  been  substituted  for  that  of  Kanzas." 
The  latter  part  of  January,  snow  was  six  inches  deep  at  Lawrence,  and  in 
the  river  bottoms,  at  some  places,  there  were  drifts  several  feet  in  depth  ; 
the  ground  was  frozen  a  foot  and  a  half  deep,  and  the  river  was  covered 
with  ice  of  the  same  thickness.  By  the  latest  accounts  received,  the  rigor 
of  winter  had  abated.* 

*  Lest  some  individuals,  forgetful  of  their  own  recent  experience  here,  should  im- 
agine Kanzas  a  second  Siberia,  and  the  reports  heretofore  given  of  its  climate  high 
colored  and  deceptive,  it  may  be  well  to  state  that  the  past  winter  has  been  an  ex- 
tremoly  rigorous  one  throughout  the  Union,  and  in  Italy  and  various  other  parts  of 
Europe  celebrated  for  a  mild  climate.  In  Philadelphia,  the  coldness  of  the  month  of 
January  was  8°  below  the  average  for  the  last  30  years.  At  Mcadville,  Pa.,  January  25, 
the  thermometer  fell  to  30°  below  zero.  So  cold  has  it  been  in  South  Carolina,  which  has 

18* 


210        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

The  winters  are,  notwithstanding,  usually  mild,  and  there  is  rarely  suf- 
ficient snow  for  sleighing.  A  gentleman  of  high  respectability  told  the 
writer  that  soon  after  he  took  up  his  residence  near  Kanzas,  he  purchased 
an  excellent  new  sleigh,  which  he  used  a  few  times  that  winter,  and  before 
another  opportunity  occurred  (several  years  subsequently)  the  vehicle  was 
so  far  decayed  as  to  be  utterly  unserviceable. 

On  the  subject  of  winter  weather  we  have  dwelt  at  some  length,  as  nu- 
merous inquiries  have  been  and  are  constantly  being  made  in  regard  to  it. 

We  will  briefly  glance  at  the  other  seasons.  Our  acquaintance  with 
Kanzas,  writes  Mr.  Brown,  ranges  through  seven  and  a  half  months,  com- 
mencing with  the  middle  of  November,  1854.  Those  months,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  April,  have  been  all  we  could  have  desired.  April,  owing  to  the 
high  winds  that  prevailed,  (which  was  also  true  in  other  sections  of  the 
country,)  proved  very  unpleasant.  June  was  one  of  the  most  lovely  months 
ever  known.  In  July  the  range  of  the  thermometer  was  from  90°  to  100°, 
between  the  hours  of  10  A.  M.  and  3  P.  M. ;  although,  from  the  preva- 
lence of  gentle  winds,  the  temperature  was  much  cooler  to  the  senses  than  is 
above  indicated.  However  hot  may  be  the  weather  through  the  day,  it  is 
refreshingly  cool  and  invigorating  in  the  night;  so  that,  indeed,  a  blanket 
is  not  unusually  very  acceptable.  May,  June,  and  July  are  pronounced 
"model  months."  In  August  there  were  just  rain  and  warmth  enough  to 
make  a  healthy  and  fertile  country ;  during  the  hottest  days,  the  thermom- 
eter ranged  between  90°  and  94°.  September  was  a  "most  lovely  month" 
with  the  exception  of  the  first  two  or  three  days,  and  the  last  six,  when  the 
wind  was  rather  higher  than  usual,  and  the  atmosphere  cold  and  damp. 

October,  from  the  1st  to  the  20th,  was  generally  pleasant  and  beautiful. 
From  the  29th  to  the  2oth,  high  north  and  north-west  winds  prevailed,  the 
thermometer  through  the  day  standing  below  the  freezing  point ;  from  that 
time  to  the  10th  of  November,  excepting  one  day,  it  was  so  mild  and  pleas- 
ant that  "workmen  were  constantly  engaged  out  of  doors,  and  the  masons 
were  busy  erecting  composite  walls,  which  cannot  be  built  during  freezing 
weather.  But  little  rain  fell,  and  only  a  few  flakes  of  snow  were  seen  in 
the  air,  which  melted  before  reaching  the  ground.  "  Taking  the  month  as 
a  whole,  we  are  not  conscious  of  having  experienced  one  so  mild  and 
pleasant." 

Rain. — The  annual  fall  of  rain  is  under  30  inches.  The  rainiest  pe- 
riod usually  is  from  May  10  to  June  10 ;  during  which,  and  at  all  times 
when  severe  rain  storms  occur,  the  roads  are  somewhat  heavy,  the  creeks 
troublesome  to  ford,  and  travelling  becomes  tedious.  There  is  very  little 
rain  in  midsummer  or  autumn ;  sometimes,  indeed,  scarcely  as  much  as  is 
desirable  for  fanning  purposes.  During  the  rainy  period  very  few  days  pass 
by  without  the  sun  being  seen,  at  least  for  a  short  time. 

usually  been  supplied  with  ice  from  New  England,  that  some  persons  have  cut  and 
stored  away  their  own  ice.  In  Mobile,  on  January  22,  the  mercury  stood  at  25°,  and 
ice  on  the  shady  sides  of  the  streets  gave  no  indication  of  thawing.  In  New  Orleans 
ice  formed  on  the  canals  and  in  the  gutters  an  inch  thick,  and  in  exposed  situations 
much  thicker.  Water  in  cisterns  was  frozen  in  the  faucets,  so  that  it  could  not  be 
drawn,  and  icicles  were  hanging  around;  fires  and  overcoats,  and  warm  coverings  at 
night,  were  in  great  demand. 

In  Texas,  on  the  upper  Brazos,  the  thermometer  stood  at  1°  degree  below  zero;  cal- 
tle  were  dying,  and  several  travellers  had  perished  from  the  severity  of  the  cold.  Simi- 
lar instances  might  be  adduced  sufficient  to  fill  many  pages,  were  it  necessary.  As 
with  the  land,  so  has  it  been  with  the  water.  Long  Island  Sound  has  been  closed;  tho 
western  rivers  blocked  with  ice  ;  the  Mississippi,  for  all  purposes  of  navigation,  has 
been  shut  its  entire  length  ;  even  the  inhabitants  of  the  "briny  doep"  have  been  suf- 
ferers; the  Nantucket  Inquirer  of  January  23  advises  us  the 'excessive  cold  weather 
has  been  particularly  severe  upon  the  eels  on  the  coast,  hundreds  of  bushels  of  which 
have  been  driven  ashore  and  raked  up  on  the  beach. 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  211 


Provisions.  —  There  has  been  no  deficiency  of  these,  for  in  Lawrence,  as 
elsewhere,  the  demand  produced  a  supply,  by  prompting  those  residing  on 
the  borders  of  the  territory  to  bring  of  their  abundance  to  the  settlement,  and 
the  competition  was  sufficient  to  keep  prices  reasonable.  This  undoubtedly 
will  hold  true  at  other  settlements. 

After  the  first  year  or  two  the  settlements  will  not  only  supply  themselves, 
but  have  a  surplus  to  dispose  of. 

A  market  for  all  such  surplus  may,  for  years  to  come,  be  found  near  at 
hand,  inasmuch  as  thousands  are  passing  through  that  region  every  year 
along  the  California,  Santa  F6,  and  Great  Salt  Lake  City  routes,  all  of  whom 
require  more  or  less  supplies ;  besides,  the  Missouri  and  Mississippi  Rivers, 
and  soon  a  line  of  railroads,  will  afford  facilities  for  reaching  other  markets. 

Modes  of  Conveyance.  —  Vehicles  are  very  frequently  passing  between 
Kanzas  City  and  Topeka,  by  which  means  those  who  intend  locating  in  the 
vicinity  of  said  towns  will  be  conveyed  there  for  about  #4  the  passage.  Per- 
sons and  parties  destined  for  other  sections  of  the  territory  may  engage  con- 
veyance at  Kanaas  City,  or  will  probably  adopt  the  course  pursued  by  some 
who  have  preceded  them,  viz.,  those  who  intend  to  be  farmers  will  pur- 
chase their  teams,  and  thus  afford  means  for  taking  along  the  baggage  of  all 
their  associates.  There  is  a  regular  line  of  stages-  between  Kanzas  City  and 
Lawrence,  also  between  Leavenworth  and  Lawrence,  and  Kanzas  City  and 
Osawatomie. 

In  the  course  of  the  season  it  is  expected  that  one  or  more  steamboats  and 
flat  boats,  constructed  for  the  purpose,  will  ply  on  the  Kanzas  River,  as- 
cending 150  miles  or  more,  according  to  the  state  of  the  water  and  the  en- 
couragement extended  to  the  enterprise. 

We  consider  that  no  more  profitable  business  could  be  engaged  in  than 
that  of  transporting  freight  to  the  various  settlements  on  Kanzas  River.  It 
is  true  that  the  state  of  the  river  during  a  large  part  of  the  boating  season 
of  1855  seems  to  militate  against  such  an  opinion.  That  season,  however, 
was  an  extraordinary  one,  the  Kaw  River  being,  throughout  the  period,, 
lower  than  it  had  been  known  to  be  for  twenty-five  years ;  and  the  cause 
which  produced  this  also  seriously  affected  the  Missouri  and  other  Western 
Rivers,  viz.,  the  small  quantity  of  ice  and  snow  in  the  mountains  the  pre- 
ceding winter.  The  great  abundance  of  both  the  past  winter  gives  prom- 
ise of  a  good  state  of  navigation  the  coming  season.  Competent  judges 
inform  the  writer  that  the  Kaw  River  will,  on  an  average,  be  navigable,  at 
least  as  far  as  Lawrence,  three  years  out  of  four,  through  the  greater  part  of 
the  Missouri  River  season ;  when  not  navigable,  the  boat  could  be  remu- 
neratively employed  on  the  Missouri,  conveying  flour  up  or  grain  down.  To 
insure  a  profitable  business,  attention  to  several  points  is  absolutely  requi- 
site :  the  boat  must  be  of  very  light  draught ;  the  captain  must  be  an  ex- 
perienced, sober,  active,  and  energetic  man ;  and  the  pilot  must  possess 
and  bring  into  practice  strict  temperance  principles. 

Accommodations  in  the  Territory.  —  It  was  originally  intended  to  estab- 
lish receiving  houses  at  the  principal  places,  for  the  temporary  accommoda- 
tion of  new  comers.  This  was  done  at  Lawrence.  But  the  necessity  for 
them  is  in  a  great  measure  superseded  by  the  opening  of  boarding  houses  at 
the  settlements.  Were  it,  however,  otherwise,  not  being  constructed  on  a 
locomotive  principle,  settlers  ought  not  and  probably  would  not  be  so  un- 
reasonable as  to  expect  to  meet  with  them  every  where  throughout  that  vast 
region ;  neither  are  they  requisite  in  a  large  majority  of  cases,  (however 
convenient,)  inasmuch  as  all  who  go  out  in  the  spring  and  summer,  if 
industrious,  will  have  time  to  provide  themselves  with  shelter,  prior  to  the 
ensuing  winter.  The  quickest,  cheapest,  and  most  comfortable  way  of  se- 
curing shelter,  at  the  outset,  is  to  take  along  tents.  These  should  be  pro- 
cured on  the  way  out,  at  St.  Louis.  One  of  sufficient  size  to  lodge  four  or 
five  individuals  may  be  had  for  from  $8  to  $10. 


212        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

At  Lawrence  the  company  has  erected  a  commodious  stone  hotel,  50  by 
70  feet,  three  stories  high,  and  a  basement ;  this  will  accommodate  a  very 
large  number  of  individuals  and  families.  It  is  said  to  be  the  finest  struc- 
ture of  the  kind  west  of  St.  Louis. 

Families. —  Whether  or  not  to  take  one's  family  along,  or  go  ahead  and 
prepare  the  way  for  it,  depends  on  many  circumstances,  varying  greatly  in 
different  cases,  a  knowledge  of  which  is  essential  satisfactorily  to  decide  the 
question.  Where  the  wife  is  feeble,  has  an  infant  or  several  young  children, 
or  from  any  cause  cannot  lend  a  helping  hand,  she  had  better  remain  behind 
until  the  new  home  is  provided  for  her  ;  or,  if  taken  along,  she  had  better 
be  boarded  at  the  nearest  convenient  place  to  the  spot  selected  for  a  location. 
If,  on  the  other  hand,  the  woman  is  the  man,  or  is  in  truth  a  helpmate,  and 
can  cheerfully  submit  to  roughing  it  for  a  while,  if  the  children  be  of  an  age 
and  character  suited  to  prove  serviceable,  let  them  be  taken  along.  If 
families  remain  back,  it  will  be  unnecessary  to  return  for  them,  as  there  will 
always  be  some  9ne  going  out  under  whose  charge  they  can  be  placed. 

Board.  —  This  can  be  obtained  at  boarding  houses  in  Kanzas  City,  Mo., 
and  at  Lawrence,  Topeka,  Osawatomie,  Manhattan,  Leavenworth,  and  Coun- 
cil City,  K.  T.,  and  perhaps  at  some  of  the  Missions,  for  from  $3  to  $4  per 
week.  At  hotels  it  will  be  much  higher  ;  probably  about  $1  per  week. 

Employment.  —  Work  is  not  guaranteed  by  the  company  to  any  one  ;  but 
wherever  settlements  already  are,  or  hereafter  may  be  started,  good  mechan- 
ics will  find  employment  at  remunerative  prices  —  particularly  carpenters, 
masons,  blacksmiths,  harness  makers,  brick  makers,  &c.  Governor  Reeder 
wrote,  in  December,  1854,  — 

"  This'  is  a  most  lovely  and  promising  country.  There  is  no  finer  under  the  sun,  and 
next  summer  it  will  be  a  rich  harvest  for  all  kinds  of  building  mechanics  and  laborers. 
Last  season  stone  masons  and  carpenters  got  $2  25  and  $2  50  a  day  ;  laborers,  $1  25 
and  $1  50.  A  legion  of  them  will  be  needed  early  in  the  spring  and  all  summer.  If 
you  have  any  to  spare,  send  them  along.  We  shall  pay  out  in  the  territory  near  a  mil- 
lion of  dollars  in  building,  and  a  man  can  be  earning  the  highest  wages  and  getting  a 
good  farm  at  $1  25  per  acre  at  the  same  time.  The  government  alone  will  spend 
$100,000  or  $150,000  in  stone  buildings  at  Fort  Riley.  The  stone  mason,  carpenter, 
brick  maker,  brick  layer,  plasterer,  laborer,  lime  burner,  &c.,  can  lay  the  foundation  of 
a  fortune  here  the  first  year.  Send  them  on  ;  I  know  they  will  not  repent  it.  We  have 
as  yet  had  nothing  I  would  call  winter,  and  I  doubt  if  it  will  be  any  colder.  Spring 
opens  about  the  1st  of  March,  and  mechanics,  &c.,  should  be  here  at  that  time.  There 
are  some  twenty  towns  laid  out,  the  greater  part  of  which  must  be  built  up,  to  say  noth- 
ing of  farm  houses,  Ac." 

As  already  suggested,  the  company  advises  no  one  entirely  destitute  of 
means  to  go  out  at  this  early  period ;  individuals  who  can  command  the 
requisite  funds  (which,  indeed,  are  but  small)  to  sustain  them  the  first  year, 
in  other  words  until  a  crop  is  raised,  or  employment  is  sure,  can  go  in  per- 
fect safety,  and  unquestionably  should  better  their  condition  by  going ; 
others  may  find  sufficient  work  to  supply  means,  but  it  is  premature  for  a 
very  large  number  of  such  to  go,  although  thus  far  the  supply  of  laborers  has 
not  kept  pace  with  the  demand ;  men  of  determined  energy,  great  self- 
reliance,  industrious  and  temperate  habits,  who  are  not  easily  disheartened, 
and  whose  indomitable  perseverance  will  enable  them  to  surmount  such 
obstacles  as  the  settlers  of  new  regions  will  be  obliged  to  encounter,  though 
less  perhaps  in  Kanzas  than  in  most  unreclaimed  regions,  such  need  not 
hesitate  to  immigrate,  though  dependent  solely  on  their  hands  and  daily 
exertions  for  a  livelihood;  all  others,  who  are  thus  destitute,  should  "  bide 
their  time." 

Climate*  and  Diseases.  —  "The  only  objection  we  have  found  to  the 
climate  of  Kanzas,  thus  far,"  (says  the  Herald  of  Freedom,)  "  is  the  heavy 
winds,  which  usually  blow  from  one  to  three  days  at  a  time  over  the  prairies, 

*  Some  remarks  bearing  on  this  will  he  found  under  the  head  of  Weather.  We  now 
speak  of  it  in  relation  to  its  healthfulness. 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  213 


making  it  rather  disagreeable  to  be  exposed  out  of  doors.  "We  think  the 
wind  and  storms  are  not  more  violent  than  in  Western  Pennsylvania  and 
Eastern  Ohio." 

Professional  men  pronounce  the  climate  a  remarkably  healthy  one,  ad- 
mirably adapted  to  those  having  a  tendency  to  diseases  of  the  lungs.  It  is, 
in  a  great  measure,  free  from  that  pest  of  many  western  places,  intermit- 
tents,  or  fever  and  ague,  (chills  and  fever,  or  shakes,  as  popularly  termed ;) 
cases  can  and  do  occur  there,  mainly,  however,  from  imprudence,  and  prob- 
ably will  be  met  with  to  some  extent  on  the  first  breaking  up  of  the  lands; 
but  such  is  the  character  of  the  country,  and  consequent  deficiency  of  ex- 
isting material,  it  is  not  probable  that  it  will  become  one  of  the  permanent 
diseases  of  the  region. 

During  the  past  summer  (1855)  this  disease  prevailed  at  most  of  the  set- 
tlements, far  more  generally  than  had  been  anticipated.  But,  from  a  per- 
sonal examination  of  the  locations,  and  an  inquiry  into  the  habits  and  modes 
of  living  of  the  sufferers,  the  writer  is  convinced  that  a  very  large  propor- 
tion of  the  cases,  with  ordinary  care,  might  have  been  avoided,  and  after 
their  occurrence,  with  prudence  and  judicious  remedial  management,  might 
have  been  promptly  cured.  It  should  not  be  forgotten  that,  during  the 
period  referred  to,  exciting  and  predisposing  causes  were  more  active  and 
virulent  than  usual,  as  is  evident  from  the  fact  that  various  Indian  tribes  in. 
Kanza's  Territory  and  elsewhere  reported  a  greater  prevalence  of  the  disease 
than  had  occurred  for  many  years  previously  ;  and  from  the  additional  facts 
that  it  raged  with  unwonted  violence  in  those  sections  of  the  west  usually 
afflicted  with  it,  and  that  it  also  appeared  in  many  quarters  (as  in  the 
interior  of  Ohio)  where  it  never  before  manifested  itself.  It  is  said  that 
this  disease,  when  it  attacks  Indians,  yields  more  readily  to  medicines  than, 
when  whites  are  the  sufferers. 

Prior  to  the  appearance  of  the  cholera,  a  period  of  six  years  elapsed  with- 
out a  single  death  occurring,  to  the  knowledge  of  Dr.  Lykins,*  between, 
Kanzas  City,  Mo.,  and  the  region  of  the  Big  Blue,  in  the  vicinity  of  Fort 
Riley,  a  distance  of  125  miles  west. 

From  October  to  August,  previous  to  the  irruption  of  that  disease,  there 
was  an  almost  complete  immunity  from  sickness.  The  most  sickly  period 
is  in  April  and  May,  when  bowel  complaints,  having  a  typhoid  tendency, 
prevail.  Most  sickness  in  the  fall  occurs  from  the  middle  of  August  to  the 
middle  of  September,  and  then  bilious  remittents  and  intermittents  occur ; 
some  seasons,  typhoid  fever  makes  its  appearance,  which  it  did  last  fall,  for 
the  second  time,  only,  in  twelve  or  fifteen  years.  A  large  portion  of  the 
cholera  cases  of  which  we  hear  so  much,  particularly  on  the  western  waters 
and  at  the  river  towns,  result  from  gross  imprudence,  as  is  evident  from  the 
fact  that  from  two  thirds  to  three  fourths  of  them  break  out  early  in  the 
week,  i.  e.  after  the  excesses  indulged  in  Saturday  nights  and  on  Sundays. 
In  winter  a  few  coughs  and  colds,  and  some  cases  of  pneumonia  or  lung 
fever,  are  met  with,  but  little  else. 

Cost  of  Building.  —  This,  of  course,  must  vary  according  to  the  material 
used,  the  size  and  style  of  the  house,  &c.  The  main  aim,  at  first,  when  so 
many  important  matters  will  require  attention,  should  be  to  put  up  a  cheap, 
temporary  shelter.  A  tent  costing  from  $8  to  $15  will  accommodate  five  or 
six  persons  tolerably  well.  A  stone  house  somewhat  similar  to  the  concrete 
form  may  be  built  for  from  12£  to  14  cents  the  cubic  foot.  A  house  thus 
constructed,  a  story  and  a  half  high,  will  cost,  ready  for  occupancy,  from 
$300  to  $500 ;  a  permanent  log  house  of  the  same  dimensions,  from  $100 

*  To  this  gentleman  we  are  under  great  obligations  for  his  unceasing  kindness,  and 
his  assiduous  professional  attendance,  during  a  period  of  six  weeks,  whilst  we  were 
confined  with  a  severe  attack  of  typhoid  fever.  We  witli  much  pleasure  avail  of  this 
opportunity  to  recommend  him  to  all  who  may  need  the  services  of  a  kind  and  compe- 
tent physician. 


214       THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

to  $250  ;  one  suitable  for  transient  occupancy,  from  $50  to  $100  ;  the  for- 
mer would  require  the  labor  of  four  hands  for  two  weeks  —  the  last,  the  same 
number  for  one  week. 

,  In  all  cases  avoid  lying  immediately  on  the  damp  ground  or  green  grass. 
Where  material  can  be  had,  —  and  it  is  difficult  to  conceive  where  it  cannot, 
— a  flooring  should  be  laid  at  once,  no  matter  how  rough  and  rude  it  be.  At 
all  events  elevate  the  resting-place  above  both.  By  neglect  of  this  simple 
precaution  much  unnecessary  sickness  and  suffering  have  been  endured. 
The  writer  visited  several  tenements  whilst  in  the  territory  where  the  grass 
under  the  bedding  was  rank  with  mould,  and  yet  the  inmates  could  not  con- 
ceive why  they  were  racked  with  pains  more  than  their  neighbors.  Avoid 
building  in  the  low  bottoms,  on  the  banks  of  the  streams,  or  among  the  tim- 
ber on  the  borders ;  the  more  elevated  the  site,  the  less  liability  to  sickness. 

The  Kanzas  Tribune  recommends  a  puncheon  flooring,  which  the  editor 
thus  describes :  — 

"  It  is  made  by  splitting  a  log  in  flat  pieces,  hewing  one  side  to  a  plain  surface,  and 
notching  the  other  down  to  fit  sleepers.  Small  logs  are  sometimes  nearly  split  in  two, 
making  large  slabs,  while  larger  ones  are  split  in  three  or  four  pieces.  After  splitting 
the  pieces,  each  end  is  laid  on  a  piece  of  timber,  in  which  are  placed  two  pins  to  hold 
the  puncheon  on  its  edge,  and  thus  it  is  hewed  in  the  same  manner  as  any  other  piece 
of  timber,  and  turning  it  down,  the  edges  are  squared.  After  laying  down  a  floor  of 
this  kind,  the  surface  is  frequently  made  even  with  an  adze.  It  is  a  very  substantial 
floor,  and  can  be  made  quite  handsome.  These  were  the  kind  of  floors  almost  univer- 
sally used  in  the  log  cabins  of  the  west.  There  is  no  use  in  being  without  a  floor 
where  there  is  timber  enough  to  make  one." 

Time  of  commencing  Farm  Work,  its  Cost,  the  Kind  and  Value  of  Crops, 
S$c.  —  On  these  points  we  avail  of  information  furnished  for  publication  by 
an  individual  bitterly  and  uncompromisingly  opposed  to  the  present  New 
England  movement,  and  who  has  exerted  himself  to  throw  all  the  impedi- 
ments and  discouragements  possible  in  the  way  of  those  who  contemplate 
emigrating  from  the  free  states  ;  when  such  a  person  is  compelled  to  make 
so  flattering  statements  as  the  subjoined,  there  is  no  necessity  for  our 
friendo  offering  any  extra  inducements  to  freemen  to  become  citizens  of 
Kanzas.  It  may  be  well  to  premise  that  the  cost  of  hiring  prairie  land 
broken  up  will  be  about  $3  per  acre ;  and  we  understand  that  individuals, 
suitably  prepared  and  acquainted  with  the  business,  purpose  pursuing  it  as 
a  vocation ;  so  that  what  General  Stringfellow  deems  an  insuperable  diffi- 
culty in  the  way  of  New  England  and  western  farmers,  can  easily  be  obvi- 
ated ;  and  where  no  one  can  be  hired,  resort  will  be  had  to  a  very  common 
practice  —  of  which  he  seems  ignorant  —  of  doubling  or  trebling  teams,  and 
thus  mutually  aiding  one  another.  He  says,  — 

"  The  greatest  difficulty  is  in  the  command  of  the  requisite  labor,  the  hands  and  team 
necessary  to  break  and  enclose  the  land.  To  one  who  has  this  it  is  far  easier  and 
cheaper  to  make  a  farm  of  100  acres  or  more  in  the  prairie  than  in  the  timber,  Indeed, 
in  Missouri  it  is  deemed  better  and  cheaper  in  the  end  to  make  a  farm  of  300  acres  in 
the  prairie,  and  to  haul  the  rails  10  miles,  than  to  clear  timbered  land. 

"  The  plough  used  will  turn  over  from  20  to  26  inches,  and  one  team  will  break  from 
two  to  two  and  a  half  acres  per  day.  The  cattle  require  no  other  feed,  but  will  keep  fat 
on  the  grass  while  at  work.  The  proper  season  for  breaking  prairie  is  from  the  1st  of 
May  to  the  middle  of  July ;  up  to  which  time  corn  can  be  planted.  The  corn  is  dropped 
in  the  furrow  by  a  boy  who  can  sit  on  the  plough,  and  is  covered  by  the  plough.  It  will 
usually  mature  and  make  good  corn  if  planted  as  early  as  the  1st  of  June.  That 
planted  later  will  make  good  stock  feed. 

"  Prairie  maybe  broken  up  as  late  as  the  middle  of  August,  and  will,  if  sown,  yield  a 
wheat  crop  equal  to  any  that  can  be  afterwards  grown  on  the  ground. 

;'To  one  who  has  stock  to  feed,  the  crop  of  corn  on  the  sod  is  always  worth  the  cost 
of  breaking,  and  will,  in  a  good  season,  pay  for  breaking  and  enclosing. 

"In  the  second  year  the  farm  is  in  perfect  condition?  There  are  no  stumps,  but  the 
sod  is  rotted,  and  your  field,  clear  of  weeds  and  grass,  is  light  and  mellow  as  an  ash- 
band.  In  the  prairie,  too.  a  hand  can  cultivate  one  third  more  than  in  the  timber. 

- 1  ought  hero  to  say  that  both  in  Missouri  and  Kanzas  the  winters  are  always  dry. 
and  wirb  but  little  snow,  and  hence  hands  are  able  to  work  during  the  entire  winter/' 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  215 


As  regards  yield  of  crops,  the  same  writer  makes  the  following  statement 
to  show  the  great  profit  of  slave  labor ;  and  we  will  not  insult  the  good 
sense  of  our  friends  by  doubting  for  a  moment  that  a  freeman  can  accom- 
plish as  much  as  a  bondman.  He  says,  — 

"Lying  in  the  same  latitude,  immediately  west,  and  alongside  of  Missouri,  the  soil 
and  climate  of  Kanzas  cannot  differ  materially  from  those  of  Missouri.  I  am  inclined 
to  believe  that  Kanzas  will  prove  even  healthier  than  Missouri,  there  being  less  low, 
marshy  land  in  Kanzas. 

"  *  *  *  Before  leaving  home  I  procured  from  intelligent  farmers  in  Platte,  a  coun- 
try bordering  on  Kanzas,  a  statement  showing  the  amount  of  land  which  one  hand 
can  cultivate,  with  the  yield  per  acre,  and  the  market  price  of  the  products  at  home. 
I  have  no  hesitation  in  attesting  its  correctness. 

Amount  of  Land  to  Hand,  and  Yidd  per  Acre. 

Hemp,  7  to  8  acres, 800  to  1200  pounds. 

Corn,  10  to  15  acres, 10  to  20  barrels. 

Wheat,  10  to  15  acres, 20  to  45  bushels. 

Oats,  10  to  15  acres, 30  to  50      " 

Value  of  Products  at  Home. 

Hemp,  21  tons,  at  $8  per  ton, ....$200  00 

Corn,  100  barrels,  at  $1  per  barrel, 100  00 

Wheat,  5  acres,  100  bushels,  at  80  cents  per  bushel, 80  00 

Oats,  5  acres,  150  bushels,  at  30  cents  per  bushel, 45  00 


Total  least  yield,  at  lowest  prices, $425  00 


Hemp,  4|  tons,  at  $130  per  ton, 585  00 

Corn,  300  barrels,  at  $2  per  barrel,  600  00 

Wheat,  5  acres,  225  bushels,  at  $1  per  bushel, 225  00 

Oats,  5  acres,  250  bushels,  at  40  cents  per  bushel, 100  00 

Greatest  yield,  at  highest  prices, $1510  00 

"This  will,  doubtless,  seem  an  extravagant  estimate :  yet  the  quotations  of  the  mar- 
kets will  show  that  the  maximum  prices  are  less  than  the  present  market  prices. 
Hemp  has  sold  during  the  past  season  for  $150  per  to'n.  Wheat  is  worth  $1  25  per 
bushel,  and  corn  $3  per  barrel.  The  yield,  too,  is  often  greater  than  the  highest.  But 
it  is  not  less  true  that  the  greatest  yield  and  highest  price  are  not  often  together.  My 
object  is  rather  to  show  the  least  yield  and  the  lowest  price. 

"  To  a  distance  of  150  miles  west,  the  soil  is  but  little  if  any  inferior  to  that  of  Mis- 
souri. Its  great  staples  must  be  hemp  and  tobacco.  *  *  *  I  need  hardly  say  that 
the  grains  and  grasses  will  all  succeed  where  hemp  and  tobacco  can  be  grown. 

"  I  have  said  that  Kanzas  was  not  suited  to  the  poor  man ;  I  only  intended  to  refer 
to  those  who  design  to  till  the  ground.  [  !  !  !  ]  But  to  the  poor  mechanic  it  offers 
great  inducements.  To  all  carpenters  especially,  and  to  stone  and  brick  masons,  it  will 
give  constant  employment  and  high  wages.  The  rudest  beginner  receives  $1  50  per 
day ;  good  workmen,  as  journeymen,  receive  in  regular  employment  from  $2  to  $3  per 
day.  Their  expenses  are  light,  the  cost  of  living  being  low." 

It  has  been  so  often  alleged  against  the  company  and  its  agents  that  they 
have  portrayed  in  glowing  and  deceptive  colors  the  beau'ty  and  fertility  of 
Kanzas  Territory,  and  thereby  allured  people  to  migrate  thither,  who,  had 
the  truth  been  fitly  spoken,  would  never  have  wandered  from  their  homes  ; 
and  as  the  allegation  is  made,  not  only  by  those  openly  opposed  to  our 
movements,  by  many  in  our  very  midst,  who  covertly  side  with  the  enemy, 
or  are  led  astray  by  the  disheartening  statements  of  returned  discontented 
ones,  we  subjoin  the  opinions  of  two  other  writers,  whose  character  and 
standing  are  vouched  for  by  pro-slavery  presses. 

The  first  extracts  subjoined  are  from  a  letter  written  by  a  gentleman  at 
Platte  City,  Mo.,  November  30,  1855,  and  addressed  to  a  friend  in  Georgia. 
That  there  may  be  no  mistake  as  regards  his  hostility  to  us,  we  copy  a  por- 
tion of  his  second  paragraph. 

"  L  live  in  sight  of  Kanzas.    My  first  two  children  were  born  there.    You  are  awaro 


216  '    THE   GARDEN  OP   THE  WORLD,   OR 


that  on  the  passage  of  the  Kanzas  Nebraska  bill  New  England  rose  in  her  might, 
formed  aid  societies,  and  vomited  forth  on  us  all  the  dirt  and  filth  of  her  degraded 
fanaticism." 

After  much  in  the  same  style,  he  declares,  — 

"  As  far  as  health,  climate,  and  profit  of  negro  labor  are  concerned,  this  is  better 
than  any  country  in  the  Union.  It  is  true  we  have  hot  and  cold,  wet  and  dry 
weather,  but  I  never  saw  the  country  where  a  man  can  be  more  independent,  and 
make  his  bread  and  meat  with  less  capital  than  here.  *  *  *  Ten  or  twelve  furrows  run 
in  corn  will  make  ten  barrels  to  the  acre.  One  thousand  pounds  of  heinp  is  a  common 
crop  to  the  acre.  Wheat  and  oats  do  well;  oceans  of  grass  and  swarms  of  cattle,  and 
withal  good  markets  for  every  thing. 

"  This  is  the  stake  that  poor,  barren  New  England  contends  for  and  hates  to  surren- 
der ;  and  it  remains  for  the  south  to  say.  Your  blood  and  treasure  paid  for  half  of  the 
seven  territories  which  at  present  belong  to  the  United  States.  Has  not  the  south 
manliness  to  take  possession  of  one  ?  And  if  you  don't  get  Kanzas,  which  one  can  you 
get?  None,  none.  *  *  * 

"We  want  your  moving  population  to  come  here.  We  want  your  poor  and  rich,  who 
are  inclined  to  move  at  all,  to  come  to  Kaiizas.  and  while  they  thus  secure  this  glorious 
territory  to  the  south,  and  the  Union  to  us  all,  take  my  word  as  a  man  of  honor,  they 
will  reap  a  rich  harvest  in  their  own  personal  advancement." 

Our  other  witness  is  the  Hon.  Sterling  G.  Cato,  one  of  the  territorial 
judges,  who  holds  his  appointment  under  the  administration  of  President 
JPierce.  In  a  letter  of  recent  date,  addressed  to  his  brother  residing  at  Eu- 
fauia,  Alabama,  he  says,  — 

u  The  .people  here  are  quiet  and  orderly,  sharp  and  intelligent,  a  little  rough  in  man- 
ners, but  warm-hearted  and  cordial.  This  is  as  fine  a  country  as  any  on  the  face  of 
the  earth,  and  the  profits  of  its  productions  would  far  exceed  those  of  the  cotton  fields 
of  the  south.  All  kinds  of  grain,  grass,  clover,  and  hemp  yield  a  rich  product.  I  have 
no  doubt  but  that  slave  labor  would  yield  in  hemp,  corn,  and  grain  at  least  from 
thirty  to  forty  dollars  per  acre  annually.  I  have  seen  no  poor  land;  it  all  seems  to  me 
richer  than  the  best  Chattahoochee  bottom,  and  most  of  it  just  such  land  as  in  the 
adjoining  -Missouri  counties  is  now  selling  at  from  $20  to  $50  per  acre.  Corn  is  now 
selling  at  twenty  cents  per  bushel,  and  the  product  estimated  at  one  hundred  bushels 
an  .acre;  and  hemp  crop  (six  tons  per  hand)  at  $140  per  ton;  and  you  see  at  once  how 
labor  is  more  productive  here  than  at  the  south.  It  is  impossible  to  give  an  adequate 
idea  of  the  beauty  and  fertility  of  the  soil  and  country;  generally  rolling,  without  a 
great  deal  of  timber,  but,  as  I  understand,  abounding  in  coal  for  fires  and  stone  for 
building -and- fencing;  good  wells  of  water  can  be  obtained  any  where,  besides  frequent 
streaniH-running  through  the  prairies." 

To  the  preceding  we  would  add,  three  of  the  best  branches  of  business  to 
engage  in  are  wool  growing,  stock  raising,  and  dairy  farming,  for  which 
purposes  there  probably  is  not  to  be  found  a  superior  region ;  and  those 
who  early  embark  in  either  will  in  a  few  years  realize  large  fortunes  as  the 
fruits  of  their  industry. 

Land  Warrants.  —  The  inquiry  is  often  made  of  us,  whether  land  warrants 
are  or  will  be  available  in  Kanzas  ?  We  answer,  if  the  holders  of  them  are 
not  or  do  not  intend  to  become  actual  settlers,  they  cannot  at  present  locate 
them  either  in  Kanzas  or  Nebraska,  for  lands  must  first  be  surveyed,  offered 
at  public  sale,  and  rendered  subject  to  private  entry,  before  they  can  thus  be 
taken  up.  These  warrants  will,  however,  be  received  in  payment  for  pre- 
emption claims.  To  holders,  therefore,  who  are  actual  settlers,  under  the 
preemption 'law  they  will  prove  as  good  as  money  when  pay  day  comes  for 
securing  their  160  acres  of  land.* 

The  Indian  trust  lands  will  not  be  subject  to  land  warrant  locations,  if 
government  act  in  good  faith,  as  by  treaty  they  are  to  be  sold  for  the  benefit 
of  the  Indians. 

'Fencing,  8$c.  —  To  fence  with  rails  will  cost  about  sixty  cents  per  rod  ;  stone 

-*  These  remarks  will  not  apply  to  warrants  issued  under  the  act  of  1850. 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  217 


walls  can  be  built  for  about  one  dollar  per  rod,  and  what  is  known  in  the 
territory  as  picket  fence  for  forty  cents  per  rod. 

Indians.  —  From  the  Indians,  the  original  and  rightful  owners  of  the  soil, 
the  settler  has  nothing  to  fear,  so  long  as  in  his  intercourse  with  them  he 
squares  his  conduct  by  the  golden  rule.  The  poor  native  has  in  times  past 
suffered  more,  and  now  has  far  more  to  apprehend,  from  the  white  man  than 
the  white  man  from  him.  Most  of  those  with  whom  the  settlers  will  come 
in  contact  are  in  what  we  call  a  semi-civilized  state  ;  they  are  not  roving, 
"  wild  Indians,"  here  to-day  and  there  to-morrow,  but  have  permanent  loca- 
tions, cultivate  the  soil,  raise  some  cattle,  sow,  and  plant ;  and  from  them, 
on  fair  terms,  the  immigiants  may  obtain  vegetables,  fencing  stuff,  &c. 

Many  of  these,  particularly  among  the  Shawnees,  Wyandots,  and  the 
Delawares,  are  highly  intelligent,  and  have  a  good  common  school  education ; 
among  them  will  be  found  active  and  shrewd  business  men ;  some  speak 
French  and  English  almost  as  fluently  as  their  native  tongue,  and  among 
the  females  some  may  be  met  with  who  have  received  instruction  in  music 
and  drawing.  Twice  in  the  course  of  his  tour  the  writer  had  the  pleasure  of 
an  interview  with  an  individual,  a  Pottowattomie  by  birth  and  an  Ottawa  by 
adoption,  who  received  a  liberal  education  in  one  of  the  collegiate  institu- 
tions of  Western  New  York  ;  he  is  a  worthy  member  of  the  church,  and  a 
philanthropist  whose  face  is  never  averted  from  the  needy  nor  door  closed 
against  the  weary  and  way-worn  traveller. 

Among  most  of  the  tribes,  Protestant  and  Catholic  missions  have  been 
established  for  many  years,  and  accomplished  much  good.  Until  recently, 
the  Friends  and  the  Baptists  have  supported  schools  in  the  Shawnee  Re- 
serve. It  is  a  subject  of  great  regret  that  at  a  time  when,  above  all  others, 
it  is  of  the  utmost  importance  that  the  principles  of  "  pure  and  undented 
religion  "  should  be  inculcated,  the  Baptist  Board,  and  we  think  the  Friends, 
have  abandoned  their  vantage  ground,  and  left  their  former  pupils  and  their 
descendants  to  go  astray,  or  be  subjected  to  the  tender  mercies  of  those 
who  have  not  then:  welfare  at  heart.  We  must  think  those  denominations 
have  acted  under  wrong  impressions,  and  that  they  will  ere  long  renew  their 
works  of  benevolence  and  Christianity. 

Towards  this  ill-fated  race  were  the  hand  of  friendship  more  frequently 
extended  than  the  weapon  of  destruction  levelled,  were  the  policy  of  govern- 
ment one  of  peace  rather  than  of  war,  of  civilization  than  of  brutalization, 
or,  what  it  threatens  to  be,,  of  extermination,  it  would  be  far  more  to  the 
credit  of  the  white  man,  and  we  should  eventually  be  convinced  of  the 
erroneousness  of  the  long  prevalent  opinion,  that  the  red  man  is  irre- 
claimable. 

This  company  has  always  enjoined  upon  its  agents  and  upon  settlers  to 
avoid  committing  trespasses  upon  any  of  the  Indian  tribes.  Pursuing  this 
course,  it  has  declined  making  locations  at  several  desirable  sites  where 
towns  have  since  been  established  by  those  less  scrupulous,  against  whose 
incursions  the  Indian  agents,  their  ostensible  and  legal  guardians  and  pro- 
tectors, have  raised  no  successful  opposition. 

The  company,  it  should  be  distinctly  understood,  is  sending  to  Kanzas  ; 
it  knows  neither  north,  south,  east,  nor  west,  to  the  exclusion  of  the  re- 
mainder ;  it  is  desirous  of  seeing  the  whole  peopled  with  good  men  and  true, 
who  will  maintain  their  own  rights  and  respect  those  of  others  ;  who,  whilst 
they  resolutely  resist  being  encroached  upon  by  the  lawless  and  reckless, 
whencesoever  they  may  come,  will  carefully  refrain  from  committing  unjust 
acts  or  uttering  harsh  epithets  against  others,  simply  for  a  difference  of 
opinion  ;  who,  save  in  extreme  cases,  will  rely  for  victory  upon  the  teachings 
of  the  Bible  and  instructions  of  the  ballot  box,  instead  of  the  influence  of 
the  bottle  and  destructiveness  of  the  musket ;  discarding  the  bottle  alto- 
gether, and  reselling  the  musket  as  a  dernier  resort. 

Religion  and  Education.  —  At  Lawrence  there  are  several  regularly  con- 
stituted religious  societies  of  various  denominations,  viz.,  Congregational- 

19 


218  THE  GARDEN   OP   THE  WORLD,   OR 

ists,  Unitarians,  Methodists,  Baptists,  and  United  Brethren.  A  free  school 
is  established  there,  in  which  the  ordinary  branches  are  taught,  and  meas- 
ures are  in  train  to  found  an  academy  for  instruction  in  the  higher  branches. 
An  athenaeum  has  also  been  instituted,  by  members  of  which  discussions 
are  regularly  held  and  lectures  delivered.  Connected  with  this  institution 
is  a  public  library.  Sunday  school  libraries  also  exist  there. 

All  of  these  means,  for  securing  and  elevating  the  mental  and  moral  con- 
dition of  the  community,  have  made  considerable  advancement,  and  will 
soon  be  in  full  operation  at  Topeka  and  the  other  settlements  of  the  com- 
pany. The  powerful  influence  for  good  exerted  by  these  is  clearly  manifest. 
The  writer  met  many  on  their  way,  in  pursuit  of  a  new  home,  who  wished 
to  be  directed  where  they  could  find  a  Yankee  settlement,  giving,  as  a  rea- 
son for  the  inquiry,  that  they  wished  to  locate  near  one,  being  thus  sure  of 
a  school  for  their  children  and  of  religious  services  on  the  Sabbath. 

In  behalf  of  each  and  all,  the  secretary  earnestly  solicits  contributions  in 
money  or  books ;  the  former  he  will  endeavor  judiciously  to  convert  into 
books  ;  of  the  latter  almost  every  one  has  more  or  less,  which,  having  done 
their  mission  here,  will  still  prove  of  exceeding  value,  for  a  similar  purpose, 
in  our  new  settlements.  If  the  secretary's  efforts  are  approved  and  seconded 
by  our  friends  here,  he  will  be  enabled  to  transmit  to  the  territory,  by  every 
party,  a  package  the  contents  of  which  may  prove  of  incalculable  importance 
to  our  friends  there. 

Game.  —  Game  is  quite  abundant  in  some  sections  of  the  territory,  though 
but  little  occurs  in  others.  Several  varieties  of  squirrels,  ducks,  geese, 
turkeys,  prairie  hens,  &c.,  were  seen  by  the  writer.  In  the  Neosho  valley 
and  other  parts  deer  are  found.  Herds  of  buffalo  were  within  sight  from 
Fort  Riley,  while  the  writer  was  in  that  section,  although  the  present  regu- 
lar range  of  this  animal,  which  is  likely  soon  to  become  extinct,  is  farther 
west  and  north-west. 

The  streams  abound  with  gar,  buffalo,  whitefish,  and  a  large  variety  of 
others. 

Arms.  —  Should  they  be  taken  along  for  protection  against  Indians, 
for  hunting,  &c.  ?  Our  opinion  of  the  red  man  has  already  been  given,  viz., 
as  a  general  rule,  if  treated  kindly  and  met  as  a  man,  he  will  behave  like  a 
man  ;  but  if  treated  like  a  wild  beast,  you  must  expect  him  to  conduct  like 
one.  Still,  as  impositions  are  constantly  being  practised  on  him,  and  tres- 
passes committed  upon  his  rights,  by  vagabonds  of  our  own  race  —  of  in- 
stances of  which  we  ourselves  have  had  repeated  cognizance  —  it  is  not 
impossible,  though  hardly  probable,  that  some  roving  bands  from  the  dis- 
tant plains  or  fastnesses  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  may,  under  exasperation, 
make  their  appearance  on  the  borders ;  and  as  "  an  ounce  of  prevention  is 
worth  a  pound  of  cure,"  and  "  discretion  is  the  better  part  of  valor,"  it  would 
be  well  to  go  prepared  for  such  emergencies. 

Besides,  it  would  be  somewhat  vexatious  to  a  hungry  man  (and  one  who 
intends  to  be  a  pioneer  must  expect  often  to  be  a-hungered)  to  see  game 
fleeting  by  him,  which  might  have  furnished  him  many  a  good  meal,  and 
be  none  the  better  for  it,  because,  presuming  there  was  no  use  for  powder 
and  ball,  he  went  to  his  new  home  without  them.  Thus  did  not  the  hardy 
pioneers  of  the  days  of  our  ancestors.  Moreover,  wolves,  rattlesnakes,  and 
other  reptiles  of  various  forms,  will  be  occasionally  encountered,  or  be  de- 
tected around  the  claims ;  and  although  the  former,  like  many  enemies  in 
human  shape,  who  make  much  noise,  are  great  cowards,  and  seldom  attack 
one,  excepting  when  they  are  sure  of  an  advantage,  it  is  advisable  to  be  pre- 
pared to  give  them  a  warm  reception. 

Whether  there  may  be  any  other  use  for  arms,  the  writer,  perhaps,  is  not 
qualified  to  judge  ;  but,  in  accordance  with  the  old  Latin  maxim,  that  it  is 
permitted  to  be  taught  by  an  enemy,  he  thinks  it  sufficient,  and  will  prob- 
ably be  perfectly  satisfactory  to  inquirers,  to  adduce  the  opinion  of  the  Hon. 


THE   GREAT  WEST.  219 


David  R.  Atchison  on  this  point.    In  a  letter  of  very  recent  date,  to  a  gen- 
tleman at  the  south,  he  says,  — 

"  Let  your  young  men  come  forth  to  Missouri  and  Kanzas !  Let  them  come  well 
armed,  with  money  enough  to  support  them  for  twelve  months,  and  determined  to  see 
this  thing  out !  One  hundred  true  men  will  be  an  acquisition !  The  more  the  better. 

"  We  want  men  —  armed  men.  We  want  money ;  not  for  ourselves,  but  to  support 
our  friends  who  may  come  from  a  distance. 

"  Let  your  young  men  come  on  in  squads,  as  fast  as  they  can  be  raised,  well  armed. 
We  want  none  but  true  men." 

Such  is  the  advice  of  one  who,  we  are  told,  "  has  occupied,  for  a  quarter 
of  a  century  at  least,  an  eminently  high  position  among  the  statesmen  of 
the  Union,  and  who,  in  the  Senate  of  the  United  States,  over  which  he  pre- 
sided with  so  much  satisfaction  to  that  body,  fairly  earned  a  reputation  of 
which  few  can  boast."  The  -advice  of  such  a  one,  on  the  present  Subject  of 
inquiry,  it  would  ill  become  us  to  gainsay. 

We  cannot  refrain  from  quoting  this  gentleman's  concluding  sentiment, 
and  most  cordially  reiterating  his  hope :  — 

"  We  hope  that  there  will  be  an  uprising  of  the  people  in  every  county  and  town  in 
the  state,  and  that  while  our  young  men  will  in  hundreds  respond  to  the  call  of  Kan- 
zas, the  old  and  the  wealthy  will  give  that  aid  which,  if  withheld,  will  keep  from 
'  there '  many  a  dauntless  spirit,  brave  heart,  and  strong  arm." 

Size  of  Parties.  —  Parties,  for  their  own  comfort  and  convenience,  should 
not  exceed  one  hundred  persons  ;  and  a  larger  number  the  company  does 
not  advise  to  go  at  once ;  neither  is  there  a  necessity  for  it,  as  at  least 
weekly  opportunities  will  be  furnished  ;  indeed,  one  hall  that  number  would 
be  stiU  better.  The  capacity  and  accommodations  of  the  Missouri  River 
boats  vary  ;  but  a  certain  number  can  be  well  cared  for ;  and  the  company 
discountenances  any  unreasonable  crowding  on  board  of  those  boats ;  it 
possesses  not  the  magic  power,  as  some  unreasonably  think,  of  enlarging 
the  boat's  capacity  to  correspond  with  a  party's  wants  or  desires.  The 
agents,  therefore,  are  enjoined  against  countenancing  or  permitting,  so  far 
as  they  can  exercise  a  control,  one  over  the*  proper  number  from  taking 
passage  in  any  boat ;  if  a  contrary  course  be  persisted  in,  however,  it  must 
be  at  the  risk  of  those  who  will  not  be  advised,  and  not  on  the  responsibility 
of  the  company. 

As,  however,  there  will  unquestionably  be  for  some  time  a  great  rush,  and 
parties  will  be  very  large,  notwithstanding  the  advice  of  the  company,  every 
one  who  goes  must  be  content  to  submit  to  various  inconveniences,  more 
especially  in  the  boats  and  at  the  houses  of  entertainment  where  they  may 
temporarily  stop. 

Those  who  go  out  early  in  the  spring  will,  of  course,  meet  with  more  an- 
noyance than  those  who  leave  later ;  but,  on  the  other  hand,  they  will  have 
a  greater  choice  as  regards  location,  and  will  sooner  enjoy  the  right  of  exer- 
cising the  glorious  privileges  of  freemen  —  a  matter  of  great  moment  to  them, 
and  of  vast  moment  to  all  who  may  subsequently  become  citizens  of  the 
territory. 

Temporary  Organizations. — Parties  are  advised  to  pursue  the  course  of 
those  who  went  out  last  season,  and  form  on  the  route  (whilst  steamboat- 
ing  it  up  from  St.  Louis,  or  previously)  some  temporary  organization  for 
the  benefit  of  all. 

By  doing  this,  and  appointing  committees  to  act  for  all,  there  will  belittle 
danger  of  what  many  fear,  that  undue  advantages  will  be  taken  of  them  by 
cattle  and  produce  dealers  at  Kanzas  City  and  elsewhere.  Should  imposi- 
tions be  attempted,  by  deputing  certain  individuals  of  shrewdness  and  good 
judgment  to  go  to  the  towns  a  little  removed  from  the  river  borders  and 
make  the  requisite  purchases,  sellers  will  soon  find  it  for  their  interest  to 
deal  justly  and  act  uprightly ;  and  none  but  fair  prices  will  be  demanded.  In 


THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

these  cases,  as  in  all  others  of  doubt,  take  counsel  of  the  company's  agents, 
as  your  and  their  interests  are  not  antagonistic. 

Modes  of  Communication.  —  All  letters  sent  to  the  care  of  Samuel  C. 
Pomeroy,  Esq.,  Kanzas  City,  Mo.,  will  be  forwarded,  as  opportunities  offer, 
to  the  individual's  address.  Those  intended  for  Lawrence,  Topeka,  or 
Leavenworth,  K.  T.,  may  be  addressed  direct,  as  a  post  office  has  been 
established  at  each  of  these  places.  In  cases  requiring  more  speedy  com- 
munication, advantage  can  be  taken  of  the  telegraph,  as  an  office  is  estab- 
lished at  Kanzas  City,  by  means  of  which  intelligence  may  be  speedily  con- 
veyed to  or. received  from  all  prominent  points  throughout  New  England, 
the  Western,  Middle,  and  Southern  States. 

Company's  Aid.  — To  correct  an  error  that  extensively  prevails,  it  is  well 
to  state,  what  may  be  inferred  from  our  introductory  remarks,  that  the  com- 
pany furnishes  no  direct  pecuniary  aid  to  individuals.  Its  main  objects  are 
not  eleemosynary  or  charitable,  in  the  ordinary  acceptation  of  the  word, 
but  philanthropic.  It  has  not  the  means  to  assist,  nor,  had  it,  could  its 
.officers  devote  the  requisite  time  to  investigating  the  merits  of  individual 
cases  ;  these  must  be  left  to  the  care  of  the  local  auxiliary  leagues,  which 
are  recommended,  if  they  extend  a  helping  hand,  to  aid,  not  by  gift,  but 
by  loan. 

The  company's  means  have  been,  and,  if  continued  to  them,  will  be,  em- 
ployed to  encourage  the  formation  of  settlements,  and  to  advance  the  pros- 
perity and  promote  the  welfare  of  the  various  communities  that  may  be  es- 
tablished ;  in  a  wor.d,  to  make,  as  far  and  as  fast  as  possible,  each  place  a  set- 
tlement of  freemen,  by  introducing  such  conveniences,  founding  and  encour- 
aging such  institutions  and  establishments,  as  now  characterize  New  Eng- 
land homes,  and  such  as  the  true  principles  of  freedom  and  the  pure  spirit  of 
liberty  invariably  show  are  so  essential  to  the  perpetuity  of  good  govern- 
ments, and  prove  absolutely  requisite  for  securing  and  sustaining  the  great- 
est good  of  the  greatest  number. 

The  company  deals  with  persons  as  constituting  communities ;  the  auxiliary 
societies  or  local  leagues  deal  with  them  in  their  individual  capacities. 

Sources  of  Information.  Newspapers.  —  Those  who  are  desirous  of  pro- 
curing a  large  amount  of  information  at  a  small  expense,  and  of  being  kept 
posted  up  on  territorial  affairs,  should  subscribe  to  the  Kanzas  Herald  of 
Freedom,  published  weekly  at  Lawrence,  K.  T. ;  the  first  volume,  just  com- 
pleted, contains  a  greater  quantity  of  material  of  a  practical  character  than 
is  elsewhere  to  be  found.  The  second  volume  was  commenced  on  the  ninth 
of  the  present  month,  (February ;)  this,  therefore,  is  a  favorable  time  for 
subscribing.  By  sending  address  and  subscription  ($2)  to  the  secretary  the 
paper  will  in  due  time  be  forwarded. 


THE  GKEAT  WEST.  221 


CONSTITUTION  OF  THE  AMERICAN   SETTLE- 
MENT  COMPANY. 

THE  subscribers  hereto,  being  desirous  to  form  a  company  for  the  purpose 
of  settling  a  tract  of  land  in  the  Territory  of  Kanzas,  in  order  to  assist  in 
making  it  a  free  state,  and  to  found  thereon  a  city,  with  a  municipal  gov- 
ernment, and  the  civil,  literary,  social,  moral,  and  religious  privileges  of  the 
old  free  states,  for  the  equal  benefit  of  the  members,  have  associated  and 
formed,  and  do  hereby  associate  and  form  themselves  into  a  joint  stock 
company,  under  the  name  of  the  "  AMERICAN  SETTLEMENT  COMPANY," 
and  have  adopted  the  following  Articles  for  the  government  of  said  com- 
pany, and  the  management  of  its  property,  affairs,  and  concerns  ;  and  here- 
by pledge  themselves,  each  to  the  others,  faithfully  to  observe  and  keep 
each  and  all  the  provisions  of  said  Articles,  viz. :  — 

Art.  1.  The  capital  of  the  company  shall  be  divided  into  shares  equal  in 
number  to  the  number  of  lots  in  the  city  hereinafter  mentioned.  The  price 
of  shares  shall  at  first  be  fixed  at  five  dollars,  but  may  be  raised  by  the 
board  of  directors.  No  person  shall  be  allowed  to  purchase  of  the  compa- 
ny more  than  six  shares  in  one  name.  Only  half  the  price  shall  be  required 
to  be  paid  on  subscribing,  except  on  the  first  share. 

Art.  2.  The  management  of  the  affairs  of  the  company  shall  be  vested  in 
a  board  of  directors,  the  majority  of  whom  shall  be  residents  of  the  city  of 
New  York,  or  its  vicinity ;  and  they  shall  have  power  to  fill  vacancies  in 
their  own  body,  and  to  elect  their  own  officers  and  agents. 

The  officers  shall  be  a  president,  vice  president,  secretary,  treasurer,  and 
general  superintendent,  who  shall  also  be  members  of  the  board  of  directors. 

Art.  3.  The  members  of  the  company  shall  be  all  such  persons  of  good 
moral  character  as  shall,  with  the  consent  of  a  director,  subscribe  for  one  or 
more  shares  of  the  stock,  and  comply  with  the  terms  of  payment,  and  sign 
this  constitution. 

Art.  4.  Minors  may  subscribe  through  their  legal  representatives. 

Art.  5.  Certificates  of  subscriptions  will  be  given,  signed  by  the  general 
superintendent,  specifying  the  amount  paid ;  and  said  certificates  shall  be 
assignable,  such  assignments  conveying  all  the  rights  pertaining  to  the 
original  certificates ;  but  any  stockholder  failing  to  pay  the  balance  due  on 
his  or  her  stock  within  sixty  days  after  the  holder  has  been  notified  by  the 
board,  shall  be  liable  to  forfeit  said  stock  and  the  amounts  before  paid  on  it. 

Art.  6.  For  each  share  held  in  accordance  with  these  provisions,  the 
owner  shall  be  entitled  to  one  lot  in  the  city  hereinafter  described,  when 
apportioned,  and  to  a  share  in  the  general  property  of  the  company;  and 
on  all  questions  to  be  decided  by  stockholders,  shall  be  entitled  to  one  vote. 

Art.  7.  Any  resident  or  non-resident  of  Kanzas  may  be  a  stockholder ; 
but  no  person  can  be  a  member  of  the  company  without  signing  the  consti- 
tution in  person  or  by  proxy,  and  holding  stock. 

Art.  8.  When  a  sufficient  number  of  members  are  in  Council  City,  and 
the  lots  shall  have  been  surveyed  and  a  map  formed,  the  lots  shall  be  dis- 
tributed to  stockholders,  by  'drawing,  which  shall  take  place  in  Council 
City,  under  the  direction  of  one  or  more  directors  of  the  company,  and  at  a 
public  meeting  of  the,  members.  Distributions  will  be  made  of  the  remain- 
ing lots  under  the  direction  of  the  board,  and  the  secretary  shall  notify 
shareholders. 

Art.  9.  It  shall  be  the  duty  of  the  general  superintendent  to  be  in  attend- 
ance at  the  office  of  the  company,  to  receive  subscriptions,  answer  letters, 
impart  information,  and  transact  the  active  business  of  the  company.  All 
moneys  received  by  him  shall  be  paid  weekly  to  the  treasurer ;  but  the  presi- 

19* 


222        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 


dent  or  vice  president  may,  as  hereinafter  provided  in  Article  11,  countersign 
to  his  order  on  the  treasury  for  incidental  expenses  in  sums  not  exceeding 
one  hundred  dollars.  A  monthly  statement  of  moneys  received,  paid  over 
to  the  treasurer,  and  disbursed  for  incidental  expenses,  shall  be  presented 
at  each  regular  meeting  of  the  board. 

Art.  10.  It  shall  be  the  duty  of  the  secretary  to  keep  the  minutes  of  each 
meeting,  to  examine  with  the  president,  approve  the  accounts  presented  by 
the  general  superintendent,  and  to  safely  file  and  keep  all  papers  and  books 
of  the  company. 

Art.  11.  It  shall  be  the  duty  of  the  treasurer  to  receive  and  disburse  the 
funds  of  the  company,  under  the  direction  of  the  board,  and  he  shall  in  no 
case  pay  out  such  funds  except  to  the  draft  of  the  general  superintendent, 
countersigned  by  the  president  or  vice  president.  He  shall  also  give  a  bond 
satisfactory  to  the  board  for  the  security  of  the  moneys  in  his  charge  ;  and 
present  reports  monthly  to  the  board. 

Art.  12.  The  money  received  from  the  sale  of  shares  shall  be  used  to 
secure,  legally,  a  tract  of  about  two  miles  square,  in  the  Territory  of  Kanzas, 
at  an  eligible  point  on  or  near  the  Santa  Fe  Road,  to  survey,  lay  out,  and 
improve  the  same  as  a  city,  which  shall  be  called  "  COUNCIL  CITY,"  to 
erect  thereon  public  buildings  for  the  temporary  accommodation  of  mem- 
bers on  moderate  terms,  to  obtain  all  the  objects  of  the  company,  to  pay 
the  salaries  of  officers  and  agents,  and  the  incidental  expenses. 

Art.  13.  The  general  plan  of  the  city  shall  be  as  follows,  subject  to  any 
necessary  alterations  by  the  board :  A  park  of  80  acres  near  the  centre,  and 
smaller  public  grounds  for  health  and  ornament  in  other  parts.  The  av- 
enues and  streets  running  towards  the  cardinal  points,  the  former  not  less 
than  one  hundred  feet  wide,  and  the  latter  not  less  than  seventy-five. 
Washington  Avenue,  on  the  Santa  Fe  Road,  being  at  least  one  hundred 
and  fifty  feet.  The  streets  shall  be  three  hundred  feet  apart,  and  the 
lots  from  fifty  to  seventy-five  feet  wide,  and  one  hundred  and  fifty  deep. 
Trees  to  be  planted,  as  soon  as  convenient,  in  all  the  streets,  squares,  and 
avenues. 

Art.  14.  One  lot  out  of  every  fifty  shall  be  appropriated  by  the  board  for 
the  support  and  benefit  of  free  schools  and  other  institutions  of  learning, 
in  which  the  Bible  shall  be  daily  read.  And  other  lots  may  be  appropriated 
for  the  support  of  lyceums,  libraries,  societies  of  beneficence,  arts,  or  other 
public  institutions  "appropriate  to  an  orderly,  virtuous,  temperate,  and  re- 
fined American  community. 

Art.  15.  Any  member  shall  be  entitled  to  the  counsel  of  the  company's 
agents  in  St.  Louis  and  in  Council  City,  in  selecting,  laying  out,  and  record- 
ing 160  acres,  and  to  the  countenance  of  the  members  in  securing  his  or  her 
claim  according  to  law. 

Art.  16.  No  member  or  officer  shall  have  power  to  bind  the  company  by 
any  contract,  or  to  render  them  liable  for  any  purpose,  or  to  any  extent, 
unless  specially  authorized  so  to  do  by  the  board ;  and  no  member  or  officer 
shall  be  liable  for  or  to  the  company,  or  any  member  beyond  the  amount  of 
his  or  her  stock.  The  board  shall  not  render  the  company  liable  beyond 
the  amount  of  funds  in  hand. 

Art.  17.  This  agreement  shall  last  until  the  lots  are  distributed  and  le- 
gally conveyed  by  deed,  and  all  the  general  business  completed  ;  and  then 
the  officers  shall  resign  their  trust,  and  the  board  shall  transfer  all  property 
of  the  company  to  such  person  or  persons  as  may  be  appointed  by  a  vote 
of  two  thirds  of  the  members  present  at  a  meeting  in  Council  City,  publicly 
called  for  that  purpose  at  least  one  month  previously. 

Art.  18.  In  case  of  any  dissension  between  any  of  the  stockholders,  or 
between  any  of  them  and  the  board,  or  any  of  the  officers,  the  questions 
shall  be  submitted  for  final  decision  to  arbitrators  appointed  in  the  cus- 
tomary manner. 


THE   GREAT  WEST.  223 


Persons  at  a  distance  wishing  to  purchase  and  become  members  of  the 
American  Settlement  Company  will  copy  the  following  form,  filling  up  the 
blanks  with  name,  date,  place  of  residence,  as ,  18 . 

Know  all  men  by  these  presents,  that,  having  read  #nd  approved  the  Con- 
stitution of  the  American  Settlement  Company,  I  hereby  authorize  their 
general  superintendent  as  my  true  and  lawful  attorney,  to  affix  my  signa- 
ture to  the  same.  

Route  from  Westport,  Missouri,  to  Council  City,  Kanzas,  by  the  Santa  Fe 
Road.  —  To  Indian  Creek,  10  miles ;  Cedar  Creek,  10  miles  ;  Bull  Creek,  12 
miles  ;  Black  Jack,  8  miles  ;  Willow  Spring,  13  miles  ;  Hundred  an'd  Ten 
Creek,  25  miles  ;  Switzler's  Creek,  9  miles  ;  boarding  house  on  Council  City 
summit,  2  miles.  Total  89  miles. 

Distances  from  Council  City.  —  Kanzas  River,  north,  18  miles  ;  Nebraska 
Line,  about  100  miles  ;  Lawrence,  north-east,  40  miles  ;  South  Line,  about 
100  miles  ;  Council  Grove,  34  miles ;  Fort  Riley  and  Pawnee,  about  60  miles, 
north-west.* 

Extracts  of  Letters  from  Council  City.  —  "  Timber  is  scarce  in  all  this 
part  of  Kanzas ;  but  there  is  more  here  than  elsewhere,  and  sufficient  to 
build  with.  I  don't  see  that  a  bad  prairie  claim  can  be  taken  any  where, 
the  soil  is  so  excellent.  The  near  timber  claims  are  taken  up  ;  and  at  the 
rate  they  go  on,  in  six  months  all  the  near  claims  will  be  taken  up.  Hedges 
will  be  used  for  fencing.  The  Osage  orange  will  grow  in  three  years.  We 
find  plenty  of  excellent  coal,  brick,  clay,  and  limestone  quarries,  which 
will  enable  people  to  get  along  very  comfortably.  They  must  bear  in  mind 
that  they  will  need  but  little  out-building  out  here,  and  not  near  as  much 
fuel  as  at  the  east.  We  have  had  it  cold,  but  only  once  at  zero,  though 
the  winds  sweep  strong. 

"  After  the  prairie  has  been  broken  up  by  the  prairie  plough  and  several 
yoke  of  oxen,  the  corn  is  dropped  in,  and  nothing  is  to  be  done  till  harvest. 
In  after  years,  an  ordinary  team  and  one  hand  will  raise  more  than  double 
on  new  land  in  the  east,  there  being  no  stumps,  roots,  or  stones  ;  and  the 
soil  is  some  of  the  richest  in  the  world." 

New  Yorkers  in  Kanzas.  —  The  wife  of  a  New  Yorker,  who  recently  went 
out  to  join  her  father  in  Kanzas,  writes  back  from  the  New  York  settlement 
known  as  Council  City  to  her  husband  a  letter  from  which  we  quote  :  — 

"  There  are  coal  and  wood  on  your  claim,  though  I  was  told  before  coming 
that  there  was  neither  wood,  water,  nor  people  here.  I  find  plenty  of  every 
thing,  though  provisions  are  rather  high.  We  have  a  cow  and  plenty  of 
milk,  and  the  children  are  hearty  and  happy.  We  live  in  father's  little  log 
cabin,  but  he  will  commence  our  house  next  week.  The  beauty  of  the 
scenery  surpasses  my  powers  of  description.  I  have  just  been  around  our 
claim,  and  I  like  it.  Come  to  us  soon,  for  you  can  have  plenty  of  work 
here.  Every  thing  is  to  be  bought,  though  goods  are  rather  dear.  I  had 
not  hoped  to  find  things  so  comfortable." 

PROPOSALS   AND   PLANS. 

Anxious  to  do  something  practical  for  the  speedy  settlement  of  Kanzas, 
a  number  of  gentlemen,  (September,  1854,)  formed  themselves  into  a  joint 
stock  association,  under  the  name  of 

THE    AMERICAN    SETTLEMENT    COMPANY; 

the  object  of  this  company  being  to  found  in  Kanzas  a  large  and  flourish- 
ing city,  one  that  would  claim  the  attention  and  patronage  of  all  interested 
in  the  growth  and  prosperity  of  that  beautiful  territory.  After  an  extensive 
and  careful  exploration  of  the  country,  by  a  committee  of  seven  intelligent 


224       THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

gentlemen,  representing  the  States  of  New  York,  Pennsylvania,  and  Ohio, 
and  after  their  unanimous  report  in  favor  of  the  location,  the  board  of 
directors  decided  on  commencing  operations  at  once,  and  to  create  a  city  in 
Kanzas  which  should  become  the  centre  of  most  important  business  and 
social  interests,  and  offer  inducements  not  otherwise  presented.  For  this 
object,  late  in  October,  1854,  a  small  party  of  settlers  were  sent  to  the  site 
selected,  to  which  was  given  the  name  of  "  COUNCIL  CITY." 

This  city  occupies  a  site  on  the  great  Santa  Fe  road,  a  thoroughfare  as 
much  travelled  as  most  of  the  roads  of  the  old  states  ;  well  adapted  both  for 
the  farmer  and  merchant,  owing  to  the  great  home  market  for  live  stock, 
produce,  and  goods  to  the  Santa  Fe  traders,  as  well  as  to  the  settlers.  There 
are  now  within  and  adjacent  to  the  city  upwards  of  six  hundred  inhabitants, 
a  steam  saw  mill,  a  grist  mill,  shops,  stores,  schools,  &c.  A  weekly  news- 
paper, "  The  Council  City  Banner,"  is  to  be  issued,  commencing  September, 
1855,  price  $2  per  annum. 

Council  City  is  laid  out  with  streets  seventy-five  feet  wide,  and  avenues  one 
hundred  and  fifty  feet ;  size  of  lots,  with  but  few  exceptions,  seventy-five  feet 
by  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  There  are  several  large  parks,  varying  in  size 
from  ten  to  fifty  acres.  (For  plan  of  city,  apply  at  the  company's  office.)  Its 
location  is  in  one  of  the  best  watered  regions  of  the  territory,  bounded  on  three 
sides  by  two  fine  streams,  (Dragoon  and  Switzler  Creeks,)  abounding  with  fish, 
and  bordered  with  excellent  timber,  coal,  and  limestone  of  the  finest  quality ; 
also,  beds  of  clay  and  sand  are  found  in,  on,  and  around  the  city  site.  In  a 
word,  the  location  of  Council  City  and  its  adjacent  country  has  been  pro- 
nounced by  disinterested  persons,  in  point  of  health,  richness  of  soil,  mineral 
wealth,  mercantile,  mechanical,  and  farming  advantages,  superior  to  that  of 
any  other  portion  of  Kanzas. 

TERMS.  —  On  and  after  September  15, 1855,  price  of  shares  TEN  DOLLARS. 
The  first  share  to  be  paid  for  in  full ;  on  every  subsequent  share  the  half  only 
will  be  demanded,  the  balance  being  subject  to  call  at  sixty  days'  notice. 
Each  share  will  entitle  the  holder  to  a  city  lot,  and  by  signing  the  constitu- 
tion, (in  person  or  by  proxy,)  he  becomes  a  member  of  the  company,  and 
entitled  to  a  pro  rata  share  in  all  the  property  of  the  company,  and  is  also 
entitled  to  a  vote.  (See* constitution.)  In  order  to  prevent  speculation,  no 
person  can  subscribe  for  more  than  six  shares  in  his  or  her  name.  No  sub- 
scriber will  be  entitled  to  a  lot  until  his  share  is  paid  in  full. 

The  whole  amount  of  money  derived  from  the  sale  of  stock,  after  defray- 
ing the  current  expenses  of  the  company,  has  been  expended  in  improving 
the  city.  It  should  not  be  forgotten  that,  in  addition  to  the  ownership  of 
city  lots  and  other  company  property,  each  settler  can  claim,  under  the 
United  States  laws,  the  right,  by  preemption,  to  one  hundred  and  sixty  acres 
of  land,  for  which  he  will  pay  the  government  price,  ($1  25  per  acre,)  but 
will  not,  probably,  be  called  upon  to  pay  in  less  than  two  years. 

The  great  favor  with  which  the  "  tEomestead  Bill"  is  received  gives 
strong  hopes  of  its  passage  this  Congress,  in  which  case  the  land  will  be 
free  to  actual  settlers. 

Our  agents  are  now  in  Council  City,  in  charge  of  the  property,  and  ready 
to  afford  counsel  and  cooperation  to  members,  on  their  arrival  at  the  spot. 
Temporary  accommodations  have  been  prepared,  by  the  erection  of  a  boarding 
house,  &c.  "  In  union  there  is  strength,"  is  a  proverb  which  applies  forcibly 
to  pioneers ;  and  every  person  who  unites  with  the  "  American  Settlement 
Company  "  may  expect  to  realize  its  force  when  he  arrives  in  Kanzas.  Many 
a  man  who  went  ten  years  ago  to  the  west  is  still  surrounded  by  woods, 
with  but  little  prospect  of  a  rise  in  his  property ;  while  others,  more  fortu- 
nate, have  made  themselves  speedily  rich,  from  the  simple  fact  that  imme- 
diately around  them  others  have  settled,  and  thus  they  have  mutually 
increased  the  value  of  their  lands.  In  this  and  other  important  respects  the 
"  American  Settlement  Company  "  embraces  great  advantages,  which  can- 


THE   GREAT  WEST.  225 


not  be  here  set  forth,  but  are  palpably  evident  to  every  practical  man,  and 
which  are  but  seldom  offered  to  the  western  settler. 

Climate.  —  Being  in  the  latitude  of  Virginia,  the  summers  are  warm, 
though  gradually  growing  cooler  as  we  approach  the  Rocky  Mountains.  As 
we  ascend  the  Kanzas  Riyer,  and  also  on  the  prairies,  the  heat  is  tempered 
by  cool  breezes  from  the  west.  The  months  of  May  and  June  may  properly 
be  termed  the  wet  season ;  while  the  latter  end  of  the  summer  and  early 
autumn  are  generally  dry. 

The  winters  are  short,  commencing  usually  about  the  month  of  Novem- 
ber, or  first  of  December,  and  ending  in  February :  although  at  times  the 
weather  is  severely  cold,  it  seldom  continues  so  more  than  two  days  at  any 
one  period.  Generally  speaking,  the  weather  is  mild  and  pleasant ;  pecu- 
liarly favorable  to  the  raising  of  stock,  owing  to  the  mildness  of  the  climate. 
Cattle  can  subsist  on  the  prairies,  and  on  bottom  lands  throughout  the 
winter,  requiring  no  shelter,  and  but  little  stock,  corn,  or  hay.  Snow  sel- 
dom falls  to  the' depth  of  three  inches,  and  it  is  very  soon  melted  by  the  sun. 
It  is  not  uncommon  to  plough  the  prairies  in  January.  The  climate  of 
Kanzas  is  healthy,  the  air  being  pure  and  dry.  But  a  small  portion  of  the 
territory  is  subject  to  malaria. 

Soil.  —  The  soil  varies  in  different  sections  of  the  country,  and  may  be 
classed  under  two  different  heads :  1st.  That  contiguous  to  the  rivers, 
termed  "bottom  lands,"  consisting  of  dark  alluvial  soil,  equal  in  fertility 
'to  any  in  the  world,  and  suitable  for  the  cultivation  of  hemp,  tobacco,  corn 
&c.  In  particular  sections  of  the  country  the  land  is  subject  to  overflow. 
2d.  Table  land  of  rich  loam,  producing  great  crops  of  corn,  wheat,  buckwheat, 
tobacco,  oats,  Irish  and  sweet  potatoes,  &c.  3d.  High  rolling  prairie,  with 
soil  and  productions  similar  to  those  of  the  table  land. 

GEORGE  WALTER,  the  general  superintendent  of  "  The  American  Settle- 
ment Company,"  will  give  full  information  relative  to  the  country,  and  make 
arrangements  for  sending  persons  or  families  to  Kanzas,  at  less  than  the 
usual  rates,  and  will  furnish  members  of  this  company  with  letters  of  intro- 
duction to  the  agent  at  St.  Louis,  who  will  procure  passages  on  first  class 
boats  to  Kanzas,  aid  in  making  purchases,  &c.,  and  to  the  agent  in  Council 
City,  who  will  advise  in  the  selection  of  farms,  &c.,  free  of  charge. 

Persons  at  a  distance  may  subscribe  for  shares  by  mail,  by  remitting 
the  necessary  amount,  with  name,  age,  residence,  place  of  birth,  occupa- 
tion, religious  denomination,  and,  if  going  to  Council  City,  the  amount  of 
capital  taken  by  them  to  Kanzas.  Subscriptions  are  invited,  throughout 
the  Union,  to  aid  the  erection  of  churches  and  public  halls,  and  the  founda- 
tion of  free  schools,  free  libraries,  reading  rooms,  lyceums,  and  other  appli- 
ances of  a  prosperous  and  enlightened  city.  Contributions  for  these  objects 
will  be  thankfully  received,  by  mail,  and  faithfully  appropriated. 

THEODORE  DWIGHT,  President,  G.  MANNING  TRACY,  Secretary, 

J.  E.  SNOBGRASS,  Vice  President,        D.  C.  VAN  GORMAN,  Treasurer. 

GEORGE  WALTER,  General  Sup't, 

Letters  should  be  addressed,  post  paid,  (if  answer  required,  in  all  cases 
enclosing  two  stamps,)  to 

GEORGE  WALTER,  General  Superintendent, 

Office  of  "  American  Settlement  Company," 

229  Broadway,  (up  stairs,)  New  York. 

N.  B.  —  No  letters  will  be  answered  unless  stamps  are  enclosed.  Persons 
sending  money  for  shares  will  send  copy  of  form  as  directed,  authorizing 
the  general  superintendent  to  sign  their  name  to  the  constitution. 

OCTAGON  SETTLEMENT  COMPANY. 

Whereas  it  is  of  the  first  importance  in  the  settlement  of  any  new  terri- 
tory, that  associations  should  be  formed  on  principles  of  freedom  and  mo- 


226        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

rality,  as  the  surest  foundations  for  the  prosperity  of  the  settlements  and  the 
welfare  of  the  country,  and  that  such  organizations  should  afford  mutual 
aid  and  protection,  combining  educational,  social,  and  individual  advantages, 
therefore  be  it 

Resolved,  that  we,  the  undersigned,  having  examined  the  plan  of  Octagon 
Settlement  originated  by  Henry  S.  Clubb,  do  hereby  agree  to  form  an  Octa- 
gon Settlement  Company,  and  to  abide  by  the  following  constitution :  — 

^  *  OBJECTS. 

1.  To  form  a  union  of 
admission  of 

with  good  society, 

favorable  circumstances,  and  trained  under  good  example. 

2.  To  commence  a  settlement  in  Kanzas  Territory,  for  the  pursuit  of 
agriculture  and  such  mechanic  arts  as  may  be  advantageously  introduced. 

3.  To  promote  the  enactment  of  good  and  righteous  laws  in  that  territory, 
to  uphold  freedom,  and  to  oppose  slavery  and  oppression  in  every  form. 

VEGETARIAN  SETTLEMENT  COMPANY. 

Whereas  the  practice  of  vegetarian  diet  is  best  adapted  to  the  develop- 
ment of  the  highest  and  noblest  principles  of  human  nature,  and  the  use  of 
the  flesh  of  animals  as  food  tends  to  the  physical,  moral,  and  intellectual 
injury  of  mankind,  and  it  is  desirable  that  those  persons  who  believe  in  the 
vegetarian  principle  should  have  every  opportunity  to  live  in  accordance 
therewith,  and  should  unite  in  the  formation  of  a  company  for  the  perma- 
nent establishment,  in  some  portion  of  this  country,  of  a  home  where  the 
slaughter  of  animals  for  food  shall  be  prohibited,  and  where  the  principle 
of  vegetarian  diet  can  be  fairly  and  fully  tested,  so  as  to  more  fully  demon- 
strate its  advantages,  —  therefore 

Resolved,  that  we,  the  undersigned,  do  hereby  agree  to  form  ourselves 
into  a  Vegetarian  Settlement  Company,  and  to  abide  by  the  following 
constitution :  — 

OBJECTS. 

1.  The  establishment,  in  the  centre  of  the  United  States,  of  permanent 
homes  for  vegetarians,  where  all  the  appliances  for  the  production  of  their 
favorite  articles  of  diet,  fruits,  and  farinaceous  productions  are  at  hand ; 
namely,  rich  soil,  salubrious  and  healthful  climate,  pure  water,  &c. 

2.  The  concerted  action  of  vegetarians  so  associated  to  be  used  for  the 
establishment  of  a  system  of  direct  dealing,  supplying  the  productions  of 
the  soil  of  the  best  quality  direct  from  the  producers  to  the  consumers, 
without  the  enormous  profits  of  speculators  and  retailers  coming  between 
these  respective  parties. 

3.  The  dissemination  of  practical  vegetarian  information,  in  connection 
with  the  supply  of  the  articles  of  vegetarian  diet. 

4.  The  calling  public  attention  to  the  subject  of  vegetarian  diet  in  a  way 
no  mere  theoretic  movement  in  the  form  of  lectures  or  publications  ever  can 
be  expected  to  accomplish. 

For  information  relative  to  either  of  the  before-mentioned  companies, 
persons  desirous  of  uniting  themselves  in  their  interests  are  referred  to  the 
following  address :  — 

GEORGE  WALTER,  Esq., 

Room  No.  24, 

No.  219  Broadway, 

New  York  City. 

%*  Enclose  stamp  in  all  cases,  if  an  answer  is  desired. 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  227 


NEBRASKA. 

THIS  territory  embraces  an  area  about  as  large  as 
Italy,  France,  and  Spain.  We  beg  the  reader's  careful 
perusal  of  the  following  interesting  account  of  the 
country,  with  an  abstract  of  Colonel  John  C.  Fremont's 
travels  in  the  territory  :  — 

Nebraska  Territory,  as  erected  by  the  late  act  of 
Congress,  is  bounded  as  follows,  viz. :  north  by  the 
49th  parallel  of  latitude,  separating  it  from  the  British 
possessions ;  south  by  the  40th  parallel,  a  few  miles 
below  the  north-west  corner  of  the  State  of  Missouri ; 
east  by  the  Missouri  River,  the  western  line  of  Mis- 
souri, and  the  western  line  of  Minnesota ;  and  west 
by  the  main  ridge  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Area, 
275,000  square  miles.  Surface  of  the  country,  from 
the  Missouri  River  westward  to  the  base  of  the  moun- 
tains, is  rolling  prairie,  but  little  diversified  in  its  aspect, 
save  by  the  intersection  of  its  streams.  The  soil,  for  a 
space  varying  from  50  to  100  miles  west  of  the  Mis- 
souri River  and  the  state  line,  is  nearly  identical  with 
that  of  Iowa  and  Missouri.  The  highlands  are  open 
prairies,  covered  with  grasses  ;  the  river  bottom  a  deep 
rich  loam,  shaded  by  dense  forests.  From  this  first 
district  to  about  the  mouth  of  UEau  qui  Court  (Run- 
ning Water  River)  it  is  one  boundless  expanse  of  roll- 
ing prairie,  so  largely  intermixed  with  sand  as  to  be 


228        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

almost  unfit  for  ordinary  agricultural  purposes.  The 
prairies  are,  however,  carpeted  with  succulent  grasses, 
affording  an  inexhaustible  supply  for  herds  of  cattle 
and  sheep.  The  third  district,  extending  in  a  belt  of 
many  miles  east  and  west  of  the  Mandan  village,  on 
the  most  northern  bend  of  the  Missouri  River,  and 
southward  across  the  southern  boundary  of  the  terri- 
tory, is  a  formation  of  marl  and  earthy  limestone.  Soil 
very  productive,  especially  adapted  to  wheat,  rye,  bar- 
ley, Indian  corn,  and  oats.  It  is  in  this  district  that 
what  are  called  buttes  by  the  Canadian  French  and 
cerros  by  the  Spaniards  are  profusely  scattered.  Here 
and  there  the  traveller  finds  surfaces  varying  in  diam- 
eter from  a  hundred  feet  to  a  mile,  elevated  from  fifteen 
to  fifty  feet  above  the  surrounding  surface.  They  are 
not  hills  or  knobs,  the  sides  of  which  are  more  or  less 
steep,  and  covered  with  grass.  Their  sides  are  nearly 
perpendicular,  their  surfaces  flat,  and  often  covered 
with  mountain  cherries  and  other  shrubs.  They  have 
the  appearance  of  having  been  suddenly  elevated  above 
the  surrounding  surface  by  some  specific  cause.  This 
marl  and  limestone  formation  is,  in  many  localities, 
worked  into  fantastic  or  picturesque  forms  by  the  action 
of  the  elements.  In  one  place,  especially,  called  by  the 
traders  La  Mauvaise  Terre,  (the  bad  ground,)  and 
about  thirty  miles  in  diameter,  it  has  assumed  a  mar- 
vellous variety  of  singular  forms.  From  one  point  of 
view  it  assumes  the  aspect  of  an  extensive  and  frown- 
ing fortification ;  from  another,  the  appearance  of  an 
Oriental  city,  crowned  with  domes  and  minarets  ;  and 


THE   GREAT  WEST.  229 

from  a  third,  the  appearance  of  a  sterile,  broken,  and 
unattractive  congregation  of  incongruous  elements. 
These  delusive  appearances  are  produced  by  distance 
and  the  position  of  the  sun.  The  wrecks  of  the  dilu- 
vian  period  of  geology  are  spread  all  over  this  region, 
and  'most  profusely  on  that  portion  north  of  the  Mis- 
souri River.  Detached  masses  of  rock,  some  of  them 
hundreds  of  tons  in  weight,  wholly  unconnected  with 
the  adjacent  geological  formations,  and  qvidently  allied 
to  those  of  the  northern  Rocky  Mountain  region,  dot 
the  whole  country.  The  district  lying  north  of  the  Mis- 
souri River,  and  west  of  Minnesota,  is  a  succession  of 
undulating  plains,  the  soil  of  which  is  quite  fertile,  but 
rather  dry.  These  plains  are  covered  with  a  thick 
grassy  sward,  which  sustains  innumerable  herds  of  bi- 
son, elk,  and  deer. 

The  district  at  the  base  of  the  Black  Hills,  between 
that  range  and  the  Rocky  Mountains,  includes  the  val- 
ley of  the  Yellow  Stone,  of  the  Maria's  River,  and  a 
variety  of  other  small  valleys,  circumvallated  by  an 
amphitheatre  of  mountains  and  gorgeous  mountain 
scenery.  The  valley  of  the  Yellow  Stone  is  spacious, 
fertile,  and  salubrious.  The  streams  are  fringed  with 
tree:*,  from  whence  the  valley  expands  many  miles  to 
the  mountains.  The  traveller  can  almost  imagine  him- 
self upon  the  Danube,  for  the  valley  is  sprinkled  over 
at  long  intervals  with  cyclopean  structures  of  granite 
closely  assimilated  in  appearance,  from  a  distant  view, 
to  the  stern  and  solitary  castles  with  which  Europe  was 
covered  and  guarded  during  the  middle  ages.  But 
20 


THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 


these  structures  exceed  those  of  Europe  in  magnitude 
and  grandeur,  and  the  woods  and  waters  are  disposed 
with  a  taste  and  beauty  which  the  highest  art  must  ever 
toil  after  in  vain.  It  is  encircled  by  a  rich  girdle  of 
heights  and  mountains,  the  bases  and  darker  sides  of 
which  are  obscured  in  shrubs,  and  the  summits  tufted 
with  noble  forest  trees.  And  here  is  to  be  the  seat  of 
a  populous  and  powerful  community  in  the  far  future. 
The  Missouri  River  was  ascended  by  Lewis  and  Clarke, 
in  canoes,  a  distance  of  3000  miles.  It  has  been  navi- 
. gated  by  steamboats  to  the  foot  of  the  Great  Falls, 
2500  miles.  From  the  point  where  the  Nodoway  (a 
Missouri  stream)  enters  it  upward,  the  northern  bluffs 
recede,  leaving  a  broad,  open,  rolling  plain.  On  the 
south  bank  the  highlands  skirt  the  stream  closely. 
Above  Council  Bluffs,  opposite  Kanesville,  Iowa,  the 
bluffs  on  both  sides  recede,  and  there  is  little  or  no 
timber,  save  only  bunches  of  cottonwood.  From  the 
mouth  of  Jacques  River  the  river  valley  continues  to 
become  narrower  to  the  base  of  the  mountains.  The 
river  valley  is  the  only  rich  alluvion,  the  highlands 
being  intermixed  with  sand  largely,  and  unfit  for  agri- 
culture except  in  the  third  district,  already  described. 
Down  as  low  as  the  Mandan  village  the  water  is  as  clear 
as  the  Ohio.  From  thence,  onward  to  its  mouth,  it  is 
impregnated  by  its  tributaries  with  marl  and  sand,  and 
always  looks  as  muddy  as  if  in  a  freshet.  The  spring 
freshet  usually  occurs  about  the  first  of  June.  Except 
during  this  freshet,  the  ascent. above  Council  Bluffs,  by 
boats  of  50  tons,  is  arduous  and  difficult,  and  its  de- 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  231 

scent  by  such  boats  nearly  impossible,  on  account  of  the 
number  and  shifting  character  of  the  bars.  There  is  a 
difference  of  7  degrees  in  the  specific  gravity  of  the 
waters  of  the  Missouri  at  the*  mouth  of  the  Kanzas 
River  and  the  waters  of  the  latter  stream.  The  former 
has  many  more  tributaries  running  through  marl  and 
quicksand.  The  average  rapidity  of  the  waters  of  the 
Missouri  is  nearly  twice  that  of  the  Upper  Mississippi. 
The  Orinoco  only  exceeds  it  in  velocity.  The  Missouri 
on  the  41st  parallel  is  more  than  500  feet  above  the 
Mississippi  on  the  same  line.  After  leaving  the  Great 
Falls,  the  tributaries  of  the  Missouri  are  not  numerous, 
and  none  of  them  above  Council  Bluffs  are  navigable 
for  any  thing  but  canoes.  The  large  space  intervening 
between  it  and  the  great  Platte  (or  Nebraska)  is  desti- 
tute of  streams,  and  nearly  so  of  springs.  Hence  the 
grass  on  the  larger  portion  of  this  immense  tract  be- 
comes withered  and  stunted  very  early  in  the  season. 
Its  chief  tributaries  are  the  Platte,  the  Sioux,  the 
Jacques,  the  L'eau  qui  Court,  the  White,  the  Hart, 
and  the  Yellow  Stone. 

The  Platte,  or  Nebraska,  rises  near  the  40th  degree 
of  latitude,  and  longitude  106°,  in  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, and  flows  thence  northward  and  eastward  to  its 
outlet,  receiving  the  South  Fork  in  latitude  41°,  and 
longitude  100°.  At  the  junction  of  the  two  forks  the 
river  is  over  5000  feet  in  width,  and  thence  onward 
varies  from  one  to  two  miles  in  width.  It  is  so  shallow 
and  so  capricious,  in  consequence  of  its  quicksands, 
that  it  may  be  considered  as  almost  useless  for  purposes 


232        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

of  commerce.  Were  its  waters  confined  to  a  channel 
of  a  thousand  feet  in  width,  it  would  be  one  of  the 
noblest  streams  in  the  world ;  but  this  may  be  con- 
sidered impossible.  The  valley  is  from  eight  to  fifteen 
and  twenty  miles  in  width.  It  is  generally  a  dead  flat, 
elevated  only  from  eighteen  to  twenty-six  inches  above 
the  surface  of  the  stream,  and  the  greater  portion  liable 
to  inundation.  It  is  entirely  destitute  of  timber,  but 
produces  a  luxuriant  growth  of  the  richest  grapes. 

Of  the  Sweet  Water  River,  an  affluent  of  the  Ne- 
braska, Fremont  says,  "  It  is  120  miles  long,  heading 
in  the  South  Pass.  It  is  a  handsome  mountain  stream, 
with  a  well-defined  valley,  in  general  sandy,  and  five 
miles  wide.  The  immediate  river  bottom  is  a  good 
soil,  with  abundance  of  soft  green  grass."  Again,  of 
the  ascent  to  the  Great  South  Pass,  he  says,  "  The  as- 
cent had  been  so  gradual  that,  with  all  the  intimate 
knowledge  possessed  by  Carson,  who  had  made  this 
country  his  home  for  seventeen  years,  we  were  obliged 
to  watch  very  closely  to  find  the  place  at  which  we  had 
reached  the  culminating  point.  Approaching  it  from 
the  mouth  of  the  Sweet  Water,  a  sandy  plain,  120 
miles  long,  conducts,  by  a  gradual  and  regular  ascent, 
to  the  summit,  about  7000  feet  above  the  sea ;  and  the 
traveller,  without  being  reminded  of  any  change  by 
toilsome  ascents,  suddenly  finds  himself  on  the  waters 
which  flow  to  the  Pacific  Ocean."  Of  his  ascent  to  one 
of  the  highest  peaks  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  from  this 
pass,  he  thus  speaks :  "  We  were  now  approaching  tho 
loftiest  part  of  the  Wind  River  chain  ;  winding  our 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  233 

way  up  along  a  ravine,  we  came  unexpectedly  in  view 
of  a  most  beautiful  lake,  set  like  a  gem  in  the  moun- 
tains. The  sheet  of  water  lay  transversely  across  the 
direction  we  had  been  pursuing ;  and,  descending  the 
steep,  rocky  ridge,  where  it  was  necessary  to  lead  our 
horses,  we  followed  its  banks  to  the  southern  extremity. 
Here  a  view  of  the  utmost  grandeur  burst  upon  our 
eyes.  With  nothing  between  us  and  the  base  to  lessen 
the  effect  of  the  whole  height,  a  grand  bed  of  snow- 
capped mountains  rose  before  us,  pile  upon  pile,  glow- 
ing in  the  bright  light  of  an  August  day.  Immediately 
below  them  lay  the  lake,  between  two  ridges,  each  cov- 
ered with  dark  pines,  which  swept  down  from  the  main 
chain  to  the  spot  where  we  stood.  Here,  where  the 
lake  glittered  in  the  open  sunlight,  its  shores  of  yellow 
sand  and  the  light  foliage  of  the  aspen  groves  con- 
trasted well  with  the  gloomy  pines.  August  15. 
(Reached  the  peak  after  five  days'  exertion.)  At 
break  of  day  we  set  out,  having  secured  strength  for 
the  day  by  a  hearty  breakfast.  We  soon  had  the  satis- 
faction to  find  ourselves  riding  along  the  huge  wall 
which  forms  the  central  summits  of  the  chain.  There, 
at  last,  it  rose  by  our  sides,  a  nearly  perpendicular  wall 
of  granite,  terminating  two  or  three  thousand  feet 
above  our  heads,  in  a  serrated  line  of  broken,  jagged 
cones.  Here  were  three  small  lakes  of  a  green  color, 
each  of  perhaps  a  thousand  yards  in  diameter,  and  ap- 
parently very  deep.  Having  divested  ourselves  of  all 
unnecessary  clothing,  and  put  the  mules  on  a  bench, 
about  a  hundred  feet  above  the  lakes,  where  there  was 
20* 


234        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

a  patch  of  good  grass,  we  commenced  the  ascent  of  the 
wall,  to  reach  its  highest  peak,  sitting  down  when  we 
found  the  breath  beginning  to  fail.  At  intervals,  springs 
rushed  from  the  rocks  ;  and  at  1800  feet  above  the 
lakes  we  came  to  the  snow  line.  From  this  point  our 
progress  was  uninterrupted  climbing.  Reached  the 
summit,  a  narrow  crest.  We  mounted  the  barometer 
in  the  snow  of  the  summit,  and  fixing  a  ramrod  in  a 
crevice,  unfurled  the  national  flag  to  wave  in  the  breeze, 
where  never  flag  waved  before.  The  barometer  stood, 
at  18,293,  the  attached  thermometer  at  44°,  giving 
13, -570  feet  for  the  elevation  above  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 
Fields  of  snow  lay  far  below  us,  boundless  mountains 
stretched  before  us.  A  stillness  the  most  profound, 
and  a  terrible  solitude,  forced  themselves  constantly  on 
the  mind,  as  the  great  features  of  the  place." 

The  Yellow  Stone  has  its  sources  in  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  but  their  exact  location  has  never  been  ex- 
plored. It  flows  north-eastwardly  to  its  mouth.  It 
has  been  navigated  for  eighty  miles  by  steamboats,  and 
may  be  rendered  usefully  available  for  other  craft  two 
hundred  and  fifty  miles.  This  valley  is  the  garden 
spot  of  Nebraska.  It  is  finely  timbered  and  watered. 
In  the  future,  commercial  intercourse  will  be  carried 
on  between  this  valley  and  that  of  Clarke's  branch  of 
the  Columbia.  General  Clarke  found  a  fine  wagon 
road  connecting  them  in  1806,  and  Major  Stephens  has 
recently  discovered  an  open  gap  through  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  These  two  valleys,  embracing  the  sources 
of  the  two  greatest  rivers  on  the  continent,  which  will 


THE   GREAT   WEST. 


bear  their  products  to  the  two  great  oceans,  surround- 
ed by  other  smaller  but  no  less  rich  ones,  will  be  the 
future  Switzerland  of  America.  Vegetation  in  Iowa  is 
some  weeks  later  than  in  Missouri.  In  Eastern  Ne- 
braska it  is  some  weeks  later  than  in  Iowa,  and  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  mountains  some  weeks  later  still.  From 
the  city  of  St.  Louis,  travelling  either  northward  or 
westward,  the  climate  becomes  colder  about  in  the 
same  degree  — the  difference  of  elevation  travelling 
west  being  about  equivalent  in  its  effects  to  the  differ- 
ence of  latitude  travelling  north.  Snow  falls  at  the 
foot  of  the  mountains  about  the  1st  of  September,  and 
at  Council  Bluffs  about  the  1st  of  November.  Coal 
has  been  found  in  the  north-western  counties  of  Mis- 
souri, and  it  is  probable  may  be  found  in  the  south-east 
portions  of  Nebraska.  „ 

SETTLEMENTS. 

•    *     •"  *  -» 

Nebraska  has  as  yet  but  few  towns,  but  we  give  the 
following  account  from  our  correspondent  of  Cass 
county :  — 

KANOSHE,  Cass  County. 

Cass  county  is  situated  on  the  Missouri  River,  and 
is  the  first  county  south  of  the  Platte.  It  now  contains 
between  seven  and  eight  hundred  inhabitants,  and  is 
one  of  the  best  counties  for  farming  in  Nebraska.  Ne- 
braska appears  to  be  almost  entirely  overlooked  by  our 
good  friends  at  the  East.  All  their  efforts  appear  to  be 
for  Kansas.  Would  it  not  be  worth  their  while  to  turn 


236        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

their  attention  a  little  towards  .Nebraska  ?  Nebraska 
Territory  is  fully  equal  to  Kansas,  and  in  some  respects 
superior.  The  country  south  of  Platte  is  superior  to 
that  north,  and  contains,  according  to  the  census  taken 
this  fall,  more  than  twice  the  number  of  inhabitants. 
The  soil  is  rich  and  rolling,  well  watered,  and  healthy. 
The  lands  in  this  region  of  country  will  be  surveyed 
this  winter.  The  crops  here  have  been  fine,  consider- 
ing it  was  the  first  season  that  any  planting  has  been 
done  by  the  whites. 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  237 


MINNESOTA. 

THIS  territory  was  formerly  a  part  of  the  vast  coun- 
try belonging  to  the  United  States  which  was  acquired 
by  the  Louisiana  purchase  in  1803.  It  was  then,  with 
the  surrounding  regions,  a  rugged  and  unmeasured 
wilderness,  peopled  only  by  savages,  and  had  never 
been  systematically  explored  by  civilized  man  until 
about  the  period  of  its  transfer.  The  tract  now  em- 
braced within  the  limits  of  the  territory  was  duly 
organized,  and  its  boundaries  denned,  by  an  act  of 
Congress,  passed  March  3,  1849,  "  to  establish  the 
territorial  government  of  Minnesota." 

BOUNDARIES  AND  EXTENT. 

Bounded  on  the  north  by  the  boundary  line  between 
the  possessions  of  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain ; 
east  and  south  of  east  by  said  boundary  line  to  Lake 
Superior,  and  by  a  straight  line  thence  to  the  northern- 
most point  of  Wisconsin  in  said  lake ;  also  along  the 
western  boundary  of  Wisconsin  to  the  Mississippi  River, 
and  down  the  main  channel  of  said  river  to  the  point 
where  the  line  of  43^°  north  latitude  crosses  the  same ; 
south  on  said  line,  being  the  northern  boundary  of 
Iowa,  to  the  north-west  corner  of  that  state,  whence 
the  boundary  proceeds  southerly  along  the  western 


238        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

limit  of  Iowa,  until  it  strikes  the  Missouri  River  ;  and 
west  by  the  main  channel  of  said  river,  as  far  as  the 
mouth  of  Whiteearth  River,  and  by  the  main  channel 
of  the  latter  until  it  strikes  the  boundary  of  the  British 
possessions.  The  territory,  at  its  northern  extremity, 
reaches  from  east  to  west  between  the  90th  and  103d 
degrees  of  west  longitude,  and  comprehends  an  area 
of  83,000  square  miles. 

RIVERS. 

Almost  the  entire  eastern  boundary,  by  the  Missis- 
sippi and  St.  Croix  Rivers,  is  navigable  water  :  steam- 
boats ply  upon  the  former,  within  the  territory,  for 
upwards  of  300  miles.  At  the  north-east  the  territory 
is  bounded  by  that  immense  expanse  of  waters,  Lake 
Superior.  The  Minnesota  winds  through  a  delightful 
valley,  in  a  south  and  easterly  direction,  and  has  been 
ascended  more  than  200  miles.  The  Big  Sioux,  and 
other  tributaries  of  the  Missouri,  flow  southerly  and 
westwardly.  The  Red  River  of  the  north,  taking  its 
rise  near  the  centre  of  the  territory,  flows  northerly,  and 
is  navigable  for  some  400  miles  before  passing  into  the 
British  possessions.  The  Missouri,  which  constitutes  a 
great  portion  of  the  western  boundary,  affords  naviga- 
tion during  nearly  its  whole  course  along  the  territory. 
There  are  many  other  fine  streams,  and  numerous  large 
lakes,  all  presenting  facilities  for  inland  commerce, 
such  as  are  possessed  by  no  one  state  or  other  territory 
in  the  Union. 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  239 

CLIMATE. 

Considering  its  high  northern  latitude,  Minnesota 
enjoys  a  climate  quite  mild,  in  comparison  with  that  of 
the  more  eastern  states  on  the  same  parallel.  The 
winters  are  less  severe,  except  at  some  points  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  great  lake ;  but  the  weather  is 
uniform,  regular,  and  subject  to  few  or  no  sudden 
changes.  The  summers  are  temperate,  and  of  suffi- 
cient length  to  bring  forth  and  perfect  the  numerous 
agricultural  products  for  which  the  soil  is  so  well 
adapted.  With  abundance  of  pure  water,  and  a  salu- 
brious atmosphere  throughout  the  year,  the  people 
cannot  but  be  favored  with  an  uncommon  measure 
of  health.  , 

SURFACE  AND   SOIL. 

The  face  of  the  country,  in  the  central  parts  of  the 
territory,  is  gently  undulating  in  its  general  character, 
and  exhibits  about  equal  proportions  of  prairie  and 
timber  land,  intersected  in  every  direction  by  clear  and 
beautiful  streams,  tributary  to  the  Mississippi  and  Min- 
nesota or  St.  Peter's  Rivers,  and  navigable  always  in 
the  spring  for  flat  boats.  This  region  also  abounds  in 
lakes  of  pure  water  ;  and  its  soil  is  represented  as  being 
unrivalled  in  fertility.  With  some  modification,  the 
same  remarks  may  apply  to  the  other  sections  of  the 
territory.  The  valley  of  the  Red  River  of  the  north, 
extending  south  some  300  miles,  from  the  northern 
boundary  of  the  territory  into  the  centre,  is  about  150 


240        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

miles  wide,  and  perfectly  level,  with  the  exception  of  a 
few  tracts  of  wet  prairie,  and  is  admirably  adapted  to 
the  culture  of  wheat  and  other  grains.  The  soil,  for 
the  most  part,  throughout  the  territory,  consists  of  a 
mixture  of  sand  and  black  loam,  and,  being  loose  and 
porous,  is  peculiarly  favorable  to  the  rapid  growth  of 
bulbous  and  other  roots.  Potatoes  have  been  known 
to  yield  450  bushels  to  the  acre.  Vegetable  crops  of 
all  kinds,  and  in  luxuriant  profusion,  are  brought  ear 
Her  to  maturity  than  in  many  regions  farther  south. 
In  the  valley  of  .Minnesota  River,  the  strawberry  vine 
commonly  attains  a  height  of  12  inches.  A  large  part 
of  the  territory  is  overspread  with  vast  forests  of  excel- 
lent pine  and  other  trees  of  great  value  for  building. 

AGRICULTURE. 

There  were  in  this  territory,  in  1855,  15,000  acres 
of  improved  land,  and  600,000  acres  of  unimproved 
land  in  farms.  Cash  value  of  the  same,  $400,000. 
Implements  and  machinery  attached  thereto,  $25,000. 
Value  of  live  stock,  $150,000.  The  wheat  crop  of 
1856  was  500,000  bushels  ;  rye,  200,000  ;  corn,  30,000 ; 
oats,  60,000  ;  barley,  4,000  ;  buckwheat,  1,000. 

INTERNAL    IMPROVEMENTS. 

A  canal,  to  connect  Lake'  Superior  with  Lake  Huron, 
has  been  much  talked  of,  and  probably  at  no  distant 
day  will  be  constructed ;  as  such  a  work  will  secure 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  241 

uninterrupted  water  communication  down  the  great 
chain  of  lakes  to  the  Atlantic  coast.  The  removal  of 
obstructions  in  the  Mississippi  and  other*  rivers  —  sur- 
veys for  which  purpose  have  been  authorized  by  Con- 
gress —  will  add  many  hundred  miles  tp  the  already 
immense  extent  of  navigable  waters  lying  within  and 
around  this  territory.  The  aid  of  railroads  will  of 
course  soon  be  called  in,  to  complete  that  system  of 
internal  improvements  which  Nature  herself  seems  to 
have  suggested. 

GOVERNMENT. 

The  government  is,  of  course,  temporary,  subject  to 
such  alterations,  and  to  such  further  division  of  the 
territory,  as  may  be  determined  by  act  of  Congress. 
All  free  white  inhabitants,  21  years  of  age,  are  voters, 
and  were  eligible  for  any  territorial  office  at  the  first 
election.  A  Council  and  House  of  Eepresentatives 
compose  the  legislative  assembly ;  the  former  consisting 
of  9  members,  chosen  for  two  years,  the  latter  compris- 
ing 18  members,  elected  annually.  The  legislature 
may  increase  the  Council  to  15  members,  and  the  rep- 
resentatives to  39.  The  governor  is  appointed  for  four 
years,  by  the  President  and  Senate  of  the  United  States. 
The  secretary  of  state,  in  like  manner  appointed;  is 
acting  governor  in  the  absence  of  the  executive  magis- 
trate. 

EDUCATION. 

To  this  subject  all  duo  regard  is  given.   Two  sections 
21 


242        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

in  each  township  are  set  apart  for  the  support  of  schools. 
In  all  the  settled  places,  school-houses  are  among  the 
first  edifices  erected.  In  some  towns  public  libraries 
are  established,  and  courses  of  instructive  lectures 
maintained. 

RELIGIOUS  STATISTICS. 

There  are  four  beautiful  church  edifices  in  St.  Paul, 
the  capital,  and  several  others  in  the  towns  of  St.  An- 
thony Falls  and  Still  water.  The  several  denomina- 
tions of  Christians  consist  of  such  as  are  usually  found 
in  the  New  England  States. 

POPULATION. 

The  inhabitants  of  this  territory,  at  the  census  of 
1850,  numbered  but  6038,  exclusive  of  Indians.  But 
so  desirable  a  country  must  soon  attract  towards  it 
large  re  enforcements  from  the  Northern  and  Eastern 
States.  The  tide  of  emigration,  in  fact,  is  already 
turned,  and  has  been  moving  with  so  strong  an  impulse 
in  that  direction,  that  in  1855,  the  number  of  inhab- 
itants was  50,000,  and  before  the  next  decennial  enu- 
meration, Minnesota  will  no  doubt  have  acquired  the 
complement  of  inhabitants  necessary  to  her  admission 
as  an  independent  state. 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  243 

ST.   PAUL. 

Post  village  and  capital  of  Ramsay  county,  Minne- 
sota Territory,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  15 
miles  by  water  and  8  miles  by  land  below  the  Falls  of 
St.  Anthony,  and  about  half  that  distance  below  the 
mouth  of  Minnesota  River,  latitude  44°  52'  46"  north, 
and  longitude  93°  04'  54"  west.  It  is  situated  on  two 
broad  benches  of  land,  the  lowest  of  which  is  50  feet 
above  the  high  water  mark  of  the  Mississippi,  which 
river  flows  past  the  town  in  an  east  by  north  direction. 
The  town  site  is  flanked  by  beautiful  bluffs,  from  which 
issue  springs  of  cold  clear  water,  and  nature  has  done 
every  thing  to  make  it  a  romantic  and  healthful  situa- 
tion. The  first  store,  or  trading  house,  was  built  in 
1842,  and  seven  years  later  it  was  the  site  of  a  Catholic 
mission,  surrounded  by  stunted  copse,  and  looking 
across  the  river  from  his  elevated  table  rock,  the  pious 
recluse  saw  a  gloomy  and  silent  forest  frowning  upon 
the  sluggish  waters  and  rising  with  the  river  hills,  fall- 
ing back  for  miles  into  the  prairie,  presenting  an  aspect 
of  interminable  woodlands  reaching  to  the  distant  sun- 
set. The  town  has  risen  from  this  wilderness  as  if  by 
magic.  It  has  now  an  imposing  state  house,  139  feet 
by  53  feet,  a  court  house,  with  metallic  dome,  glittering 
in  the  sun  like  a  fairy  castle,  jail,  9  churches  for  Chris- 
tian worship,  518  dwellings,  offices,  and  shops,  70  man- 
ufactories and  business  houses,  4  hotels,  4  school  houses, 
public  and  private.  In  machinery  of  various  kinds, 


244        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

including  a  flouring  mill,  an  iron  foundery,  a  plough 
factory,  4  wagon  shops,  &c.,  $177,000  is  invested ;  and 
stocks  of  merchandise  of  all  descriptions  are  valued  at 
$790,000 — the  last  sum  including  the  amount  invest- 
ed in  the  Indian  trade.  In  1850  its  population  num- 
bered only  1135.  In  1855,  it  contained  8000  inhab- 
itants. Lines  of  steamers,  coming  and  going  daily, 
omnibuses,  coaches,  <fcc.,  and  yet  St.  Paul  is  in  the 
wilderness.  Look  where  you  will,  and  the  primitive 
features  of  the  surrounding  country  remain  unchanged, 
and  the  wild  animal  and  Indian  still  haunt  the  grounds 
to  which  ages  of  occupancy  have  given  them  a  prescrip- 
tive right.  This  new  town,  however,  will  "  go  ahead," 
and  must  eventually  become  a  depot  of  a  vast  interior 
commerce.  It  will  receive  and  distribute  the  merchant 
ware  of  the  Upper  Mississippi  and  the  whole  valley  of 
the  Minnesota,  which  is  now  being  opened  to  settlement. 
Already  the  annual  arrival  of  steamers  from  below  av- 
erages 200,  bringing  to  the  rising  state  a  wealth  of  labor 
that  will  soon  level  the  forests  and  make  the  land  glad 
with  its  burden  of  agricultural  profusion.  The  soci- 
ety at  St.  Paul  is  a  peculiar  conglomeration  of  attrac- 
tive and  repellent  elements,  reaching  through  all  shades 
of  color,  from  the  bronzed  savage  to  the  smoothly  pol- 
ished Circassian  ;  and  that  confusion  of  tongues  which 
distracted  the  builders  of  Babel  is  no  comparison  to  the 
St.  Paulian  jargon.  The  Sioux,  the  French,  the  Patois, 
Dutch,  German,  Norwegian,  Irish,  English,  and  Ameri- 
can alternately  salute  you  in  the  street.  There  are  but 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  245 

few  drones  here  ;  every  body  is  busy,  with  no  idle, 
moneyed  aristocrats  to  tyrannize  over  the  industrious 
poor.  All  here  are  strangers  from  different  parts  —  all 
adventurers ;  all  industrious,  generally  very  orderly, 
and  consequently  very  prosperous  and  happy. 

ST.  ANTHONY. 

A  thriving  post  town  of  Ramsay  county,  Minnesota, 
is  finely  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Mississippi 
River,  at  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  8  miles  by  land 
above  St.  Paul.  Latitude  44°  48'  40"  north,  longitude 
93°  1(K  west.  The  Mississippi  here  has  a  perpendicular 
fall  of  about  18  feet,  the  first  which  occurs  in  ascend- 
ing the  river.  The  site  of  the  village  is  an  elevated 
prairie,  rising  by  a  gradual  acclivity,  and  commanding 
a  fine  view  of  the  falls.  Situated  at  the  head  of  navi- 
gation on  the  Mississippi,  and  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
of  an  unlimited  water  power,  St.  Anthony  can  scarcely 
fail  to  become  an  important  commercial  and  manufac- 
turing city.  The  University  of  Minnesota  is  established 
here.  The  town  contains  several  houses  of  worship, 
from  8  to  10  stores,  2  newspaper  offices,  and  mimerous 
saw  mills,  besides  other  mills  and  manufacturing  estab- 
lishments. The  post  office  is  called  St.  Anthony's  Falls. 
Population  in  1850,  750  ;  in  1853,  about  2000  ;  in 
1855,  about  3000. 

Our  correspondent,  writing  from  this  place,  says  that 
"  there  is  a  wire  suspension  bridge  across  the  Mississip- 


246  THE   GREAT  WEST. 

pi,  and  that  the  tolls  for  the  first  year  amounted  to 
$12,500,  and  for  the  month  of  October,  they  were 
$1940  ;  also  that  the  citizens  have  raised  a  bonus  of 
$20,000,  and  a  Mr.  Winslow  has  obligated  himself  to 
erect  within  a  year  a  hotel  to  cost  at  least  $60,000." 
This  adds  another  to  the  many  testimonies  of  the  prog- 
ress and  enterprise  of  the  Great  West. 


248        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 


TEXAS. 

TEXAS  was  formerly  one  of  the  Mexican  possessions, 
though  a  distant  province  ;  being,  as  was  generally  ad- 
mitted, one  of  the  many  conquests  of  Fernando  Cortes, 
in  the  sixteenth  century.  At  the  period  of  its  subju- 
gation, it  was  inhabited  by  savages  of  the  worst  de- 
scription. Prior  to  the  year  1690,  a  French  colony 
occupied  a  small  district ;  but  they  were  subsequently 
driven  out  by  the  Spaniards,  under  whose  jurisdiction  * 
the  country  remained,  with  few  or  no  intervals  of  agi- 
tation, sunk  in  the  obscurity  and  lethargy  of  despotism, 
until  the  abdication  of  Charles  VI.  of  Spain,  in  1808. 
At  thi*  time,  the  people  of  Mexico  began  to  assert  their 
claim  to  the  privilege  of  self-government ;  and  in  1810 
an  open  rebellion  against  the  European  authorities  en- 
sued. In  1813  a  national  Congress  issued  a  declaration 
of  independence  ;  but  a  civil  war  raged  for  several 
years  among  various  parties,  upon  the  question  as  to 
what  form  of  government  should  be  established.  At 
one  time  the  imperial  party  prevailed,  and  Mexico  be- 
came, an  empire.  This  continued  but  for  a  brief  pe- 
riod :  a  new  system,  organized  like  that  of  the  United 
States,  was  adopted,  and  Mexico  became  a  federal  re- 
public, Texas  constituting  an  integral  member.  A 
series  of  revolutions  succeeded,  during  which  Texas 
separated  itself  from  the  confederation,  achieved  its 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  249 

independence  by  the  battle  of  San  Jacinto,  in  1836, 
and  erected  itself  into  a  distinct  republic.  A  constitu- 
tion was  formed  in  the  same  year,  and  the  first  elections 
under  the  same  were  held  forthwith.  In  1845,  after 
a  prolonged  controversy,  Texas  was  annexed  to  the 
United  States,  and  admitted  into  union  therewith,  by  a 
joint  resolution  of  both  houses  of  Congress,  ratified  by 
the  Texan  people. 

BOUNDARIES  AND  EXTENT. 

This  state  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  portions  of 
New  Mexico,  Nebraska,  and  the  Indian  Territory;  on 
the  east  by  the  Indian  Territory,  and  by  the  State  of 
Louisiana,  from  the  latter  of  which  it  is  partially  sepa- 
rated by  the  River  Sabine  ;  on  the  south-east  and  south 
by  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  ;  on  the  south-west  by  the  River 
Bravo  del  Norte,  dividing  it  from  the  Mexican  posses- 
sions ;  and  on  the  west  by  the  same,  and  by  New  Mexico. 
It  lies  between  26°  and  36°  3(K  north  latitude,  and  ex- 
tends from  94°  to  105°  west  longitude.  It  is  of  very 
irregular  form,  and  is  computed  to  contain  about  237,- 
320  square  miles  ;  a  portion  of  the  original  area  claimed 
by  Texas,  when  a  republic,  having  been  set  off  by  Con- 
gress, at  the  time  of  its  admission  as  a  state,  in  the  for- 
mation of  the  Territory  of  New  Mexico. 


250  THE   GARDEN   OF   THE   WORLD,    OR 

RIVERS. 

In  addition  to  the  rivers  which  form  portions  of  the 
state  boundary,  the  chief  streams  are  the  Neches, 
Trinity,  Brazos,  Colorado,  San  Antonio,  Guadaloupe, 
and  Nueces,  with  their  countless  tributaries,  all  flow- 
ing towards,  and  ultimately  emptying  into,  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico,  after  passing  generally  through  the  estuaries 
so  numerous  along  that  coast.  These  bays,  being  com- 
monly obstructed  by  sand  bars  or  narrow  strips  of  land, 
do  not  afford  convenient  harbors,  except  for  vessels  of 
small  draught.  Steamboats  drawing  12  feet  of  water 
£an  enter  and  ascend  the  Sabine ;  and  the  Rivers 
Neches,  'Trinidad,  and  Brazos  are  navigable,  for  simi- 
lar craft,  from  50  to  300  miles.  The  San  Antonio  and 
Nueces  afford  no  navigation  of  importance  ;  and  the 
Colorado,  though  a  fine  stream,  is  obstructed  near  its 
mouth  by  a  large  raft,  which,  in  course  of  time,  will 
probably  be  removed,  when  vessels  may  pass  up  to  Aus- 
tin, the  state  capital,  220  miles  from  the  gulf.  The 
Rio  Grande  del  Norte,  on  the  south-western  border,  is 
a  noble  stream  of  some  1800  miles  in  length,  and  is 
already  becoming  a  great  commercial  channel,  though 
occasionally  impeded  by  shoals  and  rapids. 

CLIMATE. 

Texas  is  represented  usually,  by  those  who  have 
travelled  or  resided  in  it,  as  possessing  a  delightful 
climate,  and  as  being  remarkably  healthy  in  every  part, 


THE    GREAT   WEST.  251 

with  few  exceptions  at  particular  seasons.  The  wet 
and  dry  seasons,  as  in  California,  constitute  the  winter 
and  summer.  The  former  commences  in  December, 
and  continues  until  March ;  the  residue  of  the  year, 
which  is  the  dry  season,  comprehends  spring,  summer, 
and  autumn.  Severe  cold  weather  never  marks  the 
winter  season,  and  snow  is  very  uncommon,  except 
upon  the  mountain  peaks.  The  heat  of  summer,  al- 
though intense,  is  greatly  modified  by  the  regular  and 
brisk  breezes  which  prevail  daily  from  sunrise  until 
about  3  o'clock,  P.  M.  ;  and  throughout  the  year  the 
nights  are  said  to  be  invariably  cool.  Between  April 
and  September,  the  temperature  varies  from  63°  to 
100°  Fahrenheit,  the  average  range  at  noon  being 
about  83°.  In  summer,  intermittent  fevers  are  com- 
monly prevalent  in  the  low  lands  upon  the  Gulf  coast, 
though  rarely  assuming  an  epidemic  character. 

SURFACE  AND  SOIL. 

The  appearance  of  the  surface  of  the  country  is  de- 
scribed as  that  of  a  vast  inclined  plane,  gradually 
sloping  from  the  mountainous  elevations  in  the  west 
towards  the  sea  coast  on  the  south-east,  and  intersected 
by  multitudes  of  streams,  flowing  in  a  south-easterly 
direction.  It  may  be  considered  as  comprehending 
three  several  divisions,  each  differing  in  some  respects 
from  the  others.  The  first,  commencing  at  the  sea 
coast,  and  extending  inland  from  50  to  100  miles,  is  a 
level  and  exceedingly  fertile  region,  with  a  rich  alluvial 


252        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

soil,  exempt  from  those  stagnant  quagmires  and  lagoons 
which  usually  characterize  the  shores  of  the  Southern 
States,  beautifully  wooded  on  the  river  borders,  and 
abounding  with  extensive  pasture  lands,  covered  with 
an  exuberant  growth  of  native  grasses  and  herbage. 
The  next  is  a  region  of  greater  extent,  presenting  an 
undulating  surface,  composed  chiefly  of  grassy  prairies, 
interspersed  with  compactly  timbered  forests.  1}he  soil 
here  rests  upon  a  substratum  of  limestone  and  sand- 
stone, and  is  of  excellent  quality.  The  third  and  lof- 
tiest region,  situated  among  or  near  the  great  chain 
known  as  the  Mexican  Alps,  consists  partly  of  tracts 
of  productive  table  land ;  but  the  mountain  sides  are 
also  prolific  in  almost  every  variety  of  trees  and  shrub- 
bery, while  the  intervening  valleys,  enclosing  rich  bot- 
tom lands,  are  extraordinarily  fruitful,  capable  of  re- 
paying the  toil  of  the  husbandman  a  hundred  fold. 
Indeed,  the  entire  area  of  this  immense  state  may  be 
said  to  present,  naturally,  one  of  the  most  admirable 
countries  on  earth  for  agricultural  purposes.  The  state 
is  well  wooded  throughout.  Among  the  trees  most 
common  are  live  oak  of  superior  quality,  other  descrip- 
tions of  oak,  hickory,  elm,  walnut,  sycamore,  many 
varieties  of  acacia,  cypress,  caoutchouc,  <fcc.  The  up- 
lands also  produce  ample  supplies  of  cedar,  pine,  and 
similar  forest  trees.  Fruits  and  garden  vegetables,  of 
every  desirable  sort,  are  cultivated  with  great  ease  and 
success.  Peaches,  melons,  grapes,  and  other  fruits 
known  in  temperate  climates,  are  raised  in  profusion ; 
and  figs,  oranges,  lemons,  dates,  pineapples,  olives,  and 


1THE   GREAT   WEST.  253 

er  tropical  fruits  abound  in  the  southern  parts  of 
the  state.  The  products  of  the  field  consist  of  cotton, 
(the  great  staple,)  maize,  wheat,  rye,  barley,  and  other 
grains,  the  sugar  cane,  potatoes  of  each  kind,  &c.  Rice 
and  tobacco  are  grown  to  some  extent  in  different  quar- 
ters ;  and  among  the  indigenous  plants  are  indigo,  va- 
nilla, sarsaparilla,  and  many  medicinal  shrubs.  As  a 
grazing  country,  Texas  is  exceeded  by  few  or  none  of 
her  pister  states.  Vast  numbers  of  cattle,  horses,  mules, 
sheep,  and  swine  are  raised  upon  the  prairie  lands,  re- 
ceiving or  requiring  but  little  human  care.  Buffaloes 
and  wild  horses  range  the  prairies  in  immense  droves  ; 
and  the  deer,  the  bear,  and  other  game,  are  every  where 
abundant. 

AGRICULTURE. 

There  were  in  this  state,  in  1855,  900,OQO  acres  of 
land  improved,  and  14,000,000  unimproved,  in  farms. 
Cash  value  of  the  farms,  $20,000,000.  Value  of  im- 
plements and  machinery  attached  thereto,  $2,500,000. 
Value  of  live  stock,  $13,000,000. 

The  wheat  crop  of  1855  was  100,000  bushels ;  rye, 
6000  ;  Indian  corn,  10,520,000  ;  oats,  250,000  ;  barley, 
500,000 ;  buckwheat,  72  bushels.  Peas  and  beans, 
215,000  ;  potatoes,  120,000 ;  sweet  potatoes,  2,000,000. 
Value  of  products  of  the  orchard,  $14,000 ;  value  of 
products  of  the  market  gardens,  $14,000  ;  molasses, 
600,000  gallons  ;  wool  produced,  175,000  pounds ;  to- 
bacco, 80,000  pounds. 
22 


254  THE   GARDEN   OF   THE  WORLD,  OR 


INTERNAL    IMPROVEMENTS. 

In  so  recently  settled  a  state,  little  advance  can  be 
expected  to  have  been  made  in  this  respect,  beyond 
opening  ordinary  roads  ;  however,  Texas,  young  as  she 
is,  has  begun  to  turn  her  attention  in  that  direction, 
and  in  January,  1853,  32  miles  of  railway  were  in 
operation.  A  road  is  projected,  to  be  called  the  Texas 
Central  Railway,  and  another  is  in  course  of  construc- 
tion from  Vicksburg,  Mississippi,  to  Marshall,  in  Texas, 
perhaps  to  be  continued  to  Austin.  A  road  is  in  con- 
templation from  San  Antonia  to  Saluria,  one  from  Gal- 
veston  to  Austin,  and  several  others. 

* '    •  &   '. 

GOVERNMENT. 

The  existing  constitution  of  the  state  guarantees  the 
right  of  suffrage  to  every  free  white  male  21  years  of 
age,  after  a  residence  of  one  year  in  the  state,  and  six 
months  in  the  district  where  voting.  The  executive 
officers,  who  can  serve  but  four  out  of  any  six  years, 
are  elected  for  terms  of  two  years  by  a  plurality  of  the 
popular  vote.  The  secretary  of  state,  treasurer,  and 
comptroller  are  chosen  also  for  two  years,  by  the  legis- 
lature in  joint  ballot.  Senators  are  chosen  for  four 
years,  one  half  the  number  retiring  from  office  every 
two  years ;  the  whole  number  not  to  be  less  than  19, 
nor  more  than  33.  Representatives,  not  to  exceed  90, 
nor  fall  short  of  45,  in  number,  are  elected  bienially ; 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  255 

and  the  sessions  of  the  legislature  are  held  at  like  in- 
tervals. Persons  concerned  in  duels  are  disqualified 
from  holding  office.  Grants  of  money  for  internal  im- 
provements, &c.,  cannot  be  made  without  the  sanction 
of  two  thirds  of  both  houses.  The  laws  are  to  bo  re- 
vised once  in  every  ten  years.  Homesteads  are  ex- 
empted from  forced  sales  for  debt.  The  real  and  per- 
sonal property  of  a  wife  is  protected  from  seizure  for 
the  payment  of  the  husband's  debts.  Corporations  are 
not  to  be  created  with  banking  powers.  The  state  cannot 
subscribe  for  stock  in  private  corporations,  nor  borrow 
money,  nor  contract  debts  in  time  of  peace  to  an  amount 
exceeding  8100,000,  unless  by  a  two  thirds  vote  of  the 
legislature.  No  law  for  the  emancipation  of  slaves  can 
be  passed,  without  consent  of  owners,  and  the  payment 
of  full  compensation.  The  introduction  of  slaves  as- 
merchandise  may  be  prohibited.  Owners  of  slaves  may 
be  compelled  by  law  to  treat  them  with  care  and  kind- 
ness ;  and  in  cases  of  refusal  or  neglect,  the  slaves  may 
be  taken  and  sold  for  account  of  the  owners.  Slaves 
may  have  a  trial  by  jury  when  charged  with  crimes 
greater  than  petit  larceny,  and  are  protected  against 
abuse  or  loss  of  life  equally  with  the  whites,  except- 
ing when  engaged  in  a  revolt. 

EDUCATION. 

The  nucleus  of  a  school  fund  has  been  formed,  by  a 
constitutional  provision,  requiring  the  reservation  of 
ten  per  cent,  of  the  annual  state  revenue  derived  from 


256        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

taxation,  as  a  permanent  fund  for  the  maintenance  of 
free  public  schools.  Public  lands  granted  for  school 
purposes  cannot  be  leased  jbr  longer  terms  than  20 
years,  nor  alienated  in  fee.  The  important  subject  of 
education  has,  however,  as  yet,  occupied  no  great  share 
of  the  public  mind.  Some  schools,  of  tolerable  repute, 
are  supported  in  the  most  populous  settlements  ;  and  a 
late  writer  asserts  that  there  are,  also,  some  colleges  in 
the  state  ;  but  this  report  is  scarcely  sanctioned  by  any 
collateral  authority.  It  is  supposed,  nevertheless,  that 
the  state  contains  fewer  free  persons  over  20  years  of 
age,  who  can  neither  read  nor  write,  in  proportion  to 
the  whole  population,  than  any  other  of  the  Southern 
States  of  the  Union. 

RELIGION. 

Among  the  descendants  of  the  earliest  settlers,  the 
Roman  Catholic  is  of  course  the  prevailing  religion,  as 
in  New  Mexico.  But  since  the  revolution,  which  re- 
sulted in  the  severance  of  Texas  from  Mexican  sway, 
other  Christian  denominations,  of  almost  every  class 
and  name  known  in  the  older  states  of  the  Union,  have 
multiplied  and  flourished  ;  and  the  cathedrals  erected 
by  the  devotees  of  the  pope  are  now  vastly  outnum- 
bered by  the  churches  and  other  houses  of  worship  oc- 
cupied by  Episcopalians,  Presbyterians,  Baptists,  Meth- 
odists, <fcc. 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  257 

POPULATION. 

The  civilized  inhabitants  of  Texas  comprise  emi- 
grants from  all  the  other  states  of  the  Union,  besides 
the  descendants  of  the  original  Spanish  settlers,  and 
persons  in  whom  Mexican  and  Indian  blood  is  blended. 
The  former  class,  in  all  probability,  compose  a  majority 
of  the  present  population,  which,  by  the  census  of  1850, 
was  as  follows :  Whites,  154,100  ;  free  colored,  331 ; 
slaves,  58,161 ;  total,  212,592.  The  population  in 
1855  is  estimated  to  be  not  far  from  275,000. 

THE  FUTURE  OF  TEXAS. 

General  Sam  Houston,  whose  name  is  identified  with 
the  history  of  Texas,  and  who  has  more  than  any  other 
man  shaped  the  destiny  of  this  once  sovereign  republic 
and  now  flourishing  member  of  the  confederacy,  wrote 
the  following  private  letter  to  Mr.  Murphy,  then  Amer- 
ican minister  to  the  Texan  government,  which  we  take 
great  pleasure  in  republishing  at  this  time  :  — 

"  The  times' are  big  with  coming  events  to  Texas  and 
the  world.  I  feel  that  matters  now  transacting  are,  if 
carried  out,  to  perpetuate  the  union  of  the  states,  by 
the  annexation  of  Texas,  for  centuries.  If  this  great 
measure  fails,  the  Union  will  be  endangered,  its  reve- 
nues diminished,  and  a  European  influence  will  grow 
up  in  Texas,  from  our  necessities  and  interests,  that 
will  most  effectually  prejudice  the  interests  of  the 
United  States,  so  far  as  they  are  to  look  for  the  sale  of 
22* 


258        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

their  fabrics  in  the  southern  section  of  this  continent, 
and  a  forfeiture  of  our  sympathies.  Mexico,  in  a  short 
time,  by  the  influences  which  Texas  can  command,  will 
yield  every  thing  to  the  superior  energy,  activity,  and 
the  employment  of  well-directed  capital  which  will  flow 
in  to  us  from  Europe,  and  render  us  the  beneficiaries  of 
a  most  important  and  extensive  trade.  All  our  ports 
will  soon  become  great  commercial  marts  ;  and  places 
now  scarcely  noticed  upon  our  maps  will  be  built  up, 
and  grow  into  splendid  cities. 

"  These  are  but  few  of  the  advantages  which  are 
noticed  ;  but  these,  to  the  statesmen  of  the  United 
States,  ought  to  cause  ceaseless  efforts  to  secure  so  rich 
a  prize. 

"The  present  moment  is  the  only  one  that  the 
United  States  will  ever  enjoy  to  annex  Texas.  I  am 
intensely  solicitous  to  see  the  matter  consummated, 
and  my  country  at  rest.  'Tis  true  that  we  are  not  to 
be  great  gainers,  when  compared  to  the  United  States, 
in  what  they  derive.  Had  I  been  at  Washington,  I 
would,  most  certainly,  not  have  made  a  treaty  so  in- 
definite as  to  individual  rights  which  may  arise  and  be 
involved  in  the  subject  of  annexation.  We  surrender 
every  thing,  and  in  reality  get  nothing  but  protection, 
and  that  at  the  hazard  of  being  invaded  or  annoyed  by 
Mexico  before,  any  aid  could  be  rendered  by  the  United 
States.  I  hope  that  the  precautions  taken  will  be  such 
as  to  deter  Mexico  from  any  attempt  upon  us. 

"  The  fact  that  the  United  States  is  one  of  the  rival 
powers  of  the  world  will  render  that  nation  more  liable 


THE   GREAT  WEST.  259 

to  war  than  we  would  be  as  a  minor  power.  There 
are  a  thousand  reasons  which  I  could  urge  why  Texas 
would  be  more  secure  from  crouble  if  she  could  havfl 
present  peace  —  which  she  can  obtain  readily  if  she  is 
not  annexed.  When  we  once  become  a  part  and  parcel 
of  the  United  States,  we  are  subject  to  all  their  vicis- 
situdes. Their  commercial  relations  are  extensive, 
which  subjects  them  to  jealousy  and  the  rivalry  of 
other  powers,  who  will  seek  to  overreach  them,  and 
cramp  them  by  restrictions,  or  annoy  them  by  interfer 
ence.  They  will  not  be  willing  to  submit  to  these 
things,  and  the  consequence  will  be  war.  Nor  will  this 
danger  arise  from  any  one  power  of  the  earth,  but  from 
various  nations.  The  wealth  of  European  nations  de- 
pends more  upon  their  labor  than  the  people  of  this 
continent.  We  look  to  the  soil,  they  to  their  manufac- 
turing capacity,  for  the  means  of  life  as  well  as  wealth. 
These  facts  are  not  all ;  and,  indeed,  but  a  very  partial 
notice  of  important  affairs.  The  political  relations  of 
the  United  States  will  increase  and  become  more  com- 
plicated and  extensive  with  their  increase  of  power. 
Not  only  this,  but  they,  too,  will  grow  arrogant ;  and 
it  will  not  be  a  half  century,  if  the  Union  should  lastj 
before  they  will  feel  a  strong  inclination  to  possess,  by 
force,  that  which  they  at  present  would  be  willing  to 
make  a  subject  of  negotiation  and  treaty. 

"  In  all  contingencies,  if  we  are  annexed,  we  have  to 
bear  a  part  of  their  troubles,  no  matter  of  what  char- 
acter. Alone  and  independent,  Texas  would  be  en- 
abled to  stand  aloof  from  all  matters  unconnected  with 


THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

her  existence  as  a  nation  ;  while  the  causes  of  war  to 
the  United  States  would  be  a  source  of  benefit  and 
prosperity  to  her.  War  could  grow  up  between  no 
power  and  the  United  States  but  Texas  would  be 
the  beneficiary.  The  value  of  her  staples  would  be 
enhanced,  and  that  arising  from  the  influence  of  war 
upon  the  United  States.  Texas,  enjoying  as  she  does 
a  situation  on  the  Gulf,  and  a  neutral  attitude,  would 
derive  the  greatest  possible  benefits.  Calamity  to  other 
nations  would  be  wealth  and  power  to  Texas.  The 
encouragement  given  us  by  the  demand  for  our  staples 
would  increase  our  individual  as  well  as  our  national 
wealth.  The  fleets  of  belligerents  would  be  supplied 
with  meats  from  our  natural  pastures  ;  and  the  sale  of 
our  superabundant  herds  would,  when  added  to  the 
sale  of  our  other  commodities,  give  us  more  wealth 
than  any  other  nation,  in  comparison  to  our  popu- 
lation. 

"  Apart  from  this,  if  we  should  not  be  annexed,  all 
the  European  nations  would  introduce  with  alacrity 
vast  numbers  of  emigrants,  because  it  would  enable 
them  to  extend  their  commerce.  Those  who  migrate 
from  the  different  nations  to  Texas  will  retain  predi- 
lections, for  many  years,  in  favor  of  the  partialities 
which  nativity  carries  with  it  in  after  life. 

"  That  France  and  England  will  pour  into  our  country 
vast  numbers  of  industrious  citizens,  there  can  be  no 
doubt.  Belgium,  Holland,  and  other  countries,  will 
not  be  remiss  in  their  duty  to  ulterior  consequences. 
All  these  countries  have  an  excess  of  population,  and 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  261 

the  common  policy  and  economy  of  nations  are  such, 
that  they  will  have  a  care  to  the  location  of  those  who 
leave  their  native  countries.  Never,  to  my  apprehen- 
sion, have  all  nations  evinced  the  same  disposition  to 
commerce  as  that  which  is  now  exercised  and  enter- 
tained. Hence  no  time  has  ever  been  so  propitious  for 
the  upbuilding  of  a  nation  possessed  of  our  advantages 
as  that  which  Texas  at  this  moment  enjoys,  in  the  event 
that  the  measure  of  annexation  should  fail.  Its  failure 
can  only  result  from  selfishness  on  the  part  of  the 
government  or  Congress  of  the  United  States.  If 
faction,  or  a  regard  to  present  party  advantages,  should 
defeat  the  measure,  you  may  depend  upon  one  thing, 
and  that  is,  that  the  glory  of  the  United  States  has 
already  culminated.  A  rival  power  will  soon  be  built 
up,  and  the  Pacific,  as  well  as  the  Atlantic,  will  be 
component  parts  of  Texas  in  thirty  years  from  this 
date. 

"The  Oregon  region,  in  geographical  affinity,  will 
attach  to  Texas.  By  this  coalition,  or  union,  the  bar- 
rier of  the  Rocky  Mountains  will  be  dispensed  with  or 
obviated.  England  and  France,  in  anticipation  of  such 
an  event,  would  not  be  so  tenacious  on  the  subject  of 
Oregon  as  if  the  United  States  were  to  be  the  sole  pos- 
sessors of  it.  When  such  an  event  would  take  place, 
or  in  anticipation  of  such  result,  all  the  powers  which 
either  envy  or  fear  the  United  States  would  use  all 
reasonable  exertions  to  build  us  up,  as  the  only  rival 
power  which  can  exist,  on  this  continent,  to  that  of  the 
United  States.  Considering  our  origin,  these  specula- 


262        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

tions  may  seem  chimerical,  and  that  such  things  cannot 
take  place.  A  common  origin  has  its  influence  so  long 
as  a  common  interest  exists,  and  no  longer.  Sentiment 
tells  well  in  love  matters  or  in  a  speech ;  but  in  the 
affairs  and  transactions  of  nations  there  is  no  sentiment 
or  feeling  but  one,  and  that  is  essentially  selfish. 

"  I  regard  nations  as  corporations  on  a  large  and 
sometimes  magnificent  scale,  but  no  more  than  this ; 
consequently,  they  have  no  soul,  and  recognize  no 
Mentor  but  interest. 

"  Texas,  once  set  apart  and  rejected  by  the  United 
States,  would  feel  that  she  was  of  humble  origin  ;  and 
if  a  prospect  was  once  presented  to  her  of  becoming  a 
rival  to  the  United  States,  it  would  only  stimulate  her 
to  feelings  of  emulation;  and  it  would  be  her  least 
consideration  that,  by  her  growth  to  power,  she  would 
overcome  the  humility  of  her  early  condition.  So  the 
very  causes  which  now  operate  with  Texas,  and  incline 
her  to  annexation,  may,  at  some  future  period,  give 
origin  to  the  most  active  and  powerful  animosity  be- 
tween the  two  countries.  This,  too,  we  must  look  at, 
for  it  will  be  the  case.  Whenever  difficulties  arise  be- 
tween the  United  States  and  Texas,  if  they  are  to 
remain  two  distinct  nations,  the  powers  of  Europe  will 
not  look  upon  our  affairs  with  indifference ;  and  no 
matter  what  their  professions  may  be  of  neutrality, 
they  can  always  find  means  of  evasion.  The  union  of 
Oregon  and  Texas  will  be  much  more  natural  and  con- 
venient than  for  either,  separately,  to  belong  to  the 
United  States.  This,  too,  would  place  Mexico  at  the 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  263 

mercy  of  such  a  power  as  Oregon  and  Texas  would 
form.  Such  an  event  may  appear  fanciful  to  many, 
but  I  assure  you  there  are  no  Rocky  Mountains  inter- 
posing to  such  a  project.  But  one  thing  can  prevent 
its  accomplishment,  and  that  is  annexation. 

"  If  you,  or  any  statesman,  will  only  regard  the  map 
of  North  America,  you  will  perceive  that,  from  the  46th 
degree  of  latitude  north,  there  is  the  commencement 
of  a  natural  boundary.  This  will  embrace  the  Oregon, 
and  from  thence  south  on  the  Pacific  coast,  to  the  29th 
or  30th  degree  of  south  latitude,  will  be  a  natural  and 
convenient  extent  of  seaboard. 

"  I  am  free  to  admit  that  most  of  the  provinces  of 
Chihuahua,  Sonora,  and  the  Upper  and  Lower  Califor- 
nias,  as  well  as  Santa  Fe,  which  we  now  claim,  will 
have  to  be  brought  into  the  connection  of  Texas  and 
Oregon.  This,  you  will  see  by  reference  to  the  map,  is 
no  bugbear  to  those  who  will  reflect  upon  the  achieve- 
ments of  the  Anglo-Saxon  people.  What  have  they 
ever  attempted,  and  recoiled  from,  in  submission  to  de- 
feat ?  Nothing,  I  would  answer.  Population  would 
be  all  that  would  be  needful,  for,  with  it,  resources 
would  be  afforded  for  the  accomplishment  of  any  en- 
terprise. As  to  the  proposition,  that  the  provinces-  of 
Mexico  would  have  to  be  overrun,  there  is  nothing  in 
this  ;  for  you  may  rely  upon  the  fact,  that  the  Mexicans 
only  require  kind  and  humane  masters  to  make  them 
a  happy  people,  and  secure  them  against  the  savage 
hordes  who  harass  them  constantly,  and  bear  their 
women  and  children  into  bondage.  Secure  them  from 


264        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

.these  calamities,  and  they  would  bless  any  power  that 
would  grant  them  such  a  boon. 

"  The  Rocky  Mountains  interposing  between  Missouri 
and  Oregon  will  very  naturally  separate  them  from  the 
United  States,  when  they  see  the  advantages  arising 
from  a  connection  with  another  nation  of  the  same 
language  and  habits  with  themselves.  The  line  of 
Texas  running  with  the  Arkansas,  and  extending  to 
the  great  desert,  would  mark  a  natural  boundary  be- 
tween Texas,  or  a  new  and  vast  republic  to  the  south- 
west. If  this  ever  take  place,  you  may  rely  upon  one 
thing,  which  is  this,  that  a  nation,  embracing  the  ad- 
vantages of  the  extent  of  seventeen  degrees  on  the 
Pacific,  and  so  extensive  a  front  on  the  Atlantic,  as 
Texas  does,  will  not  be  less  than  a  rival  power  to  any 
of  the  nations  now  in  existence. 

"  You  need  not  estimate  the  population  which  is  said 
or  reputed  to  occupy  the  vast  territory  embraced  be- 
tween the  29th  and  46th  degrees  of  latitude  on  the 
Pacific.  They  will,  like  the  Indian  race,  yield  to  the 
advance  of  the  North  American  population.  The 
amalgamation,  under  the  guidance  of  statesmen,  can- 
not fail  to  produce  the  result,  in  creating  a  united 
government,  formed  of  and  embracing  the  limits  sug- 
gested. 

"  It  may  be  urged  that  these  matters  are  remote.  Be 
it  so.  Statesmen  are  intended  by  their  forecast  to  regu- 
late and  arrange  matters  in  such  sort  as  will  give  di- 
rection to  events  by  which  the  future  is  to  be  benefited 
or  prejudiced. 


THE    GREAT   WEST.  265 

"  You  'may  freely  rely,  my  friend,  that  future  ages 
will  profii*  by  these  facts,  while  we  will  only  contem- 
plate them  in  perspective.  Thay  must  come.  It  is 
impossible  to  look  upon  the  map  of  North  America 
and  not  perceive  the  rationale  of  the  project.  Men 
may  laugh  at  these  suggestions ;  but  when  we  are 
withdrawn  from  all  the  petty  influences  which  now 
exist,  these  matters  will  assume  the  most  grave  and 
solemn  national  import. 

"  I  do  not  care  to  be  in  any  way  identified  with 
them.  They  are  the  results  of  destiny,  over  which  I 
have  no  control. 

"  If  the  treaty  is  not  ratified,  I  will  require  all  future 
negotiations  to  be  transferred  to  Texas." 
23 


266 


NEW  MEXICO. 

THE  region  now  comprehended  within  the  limits 
established  by  Congress  as  the  United  States  Territory 
of  New  Mexico  formerly  constituted  a  portion  or  por- 
tions of  a  Mexican  province.  During  the  war  between 
the  United  States  and  Mexico,  (1846,)  General  Kear- 
ney took  peaceable  possession  of  Santa  Fe,  the  capital 
of  the  province,  and  established  a  temporary  govern- 
ment therein.  In  the  early  part  of  the  following  year 
a  revolt  against  the  American  authorities  took  place, 
and  six  of  the  civil  officers,  including  the  governor, 
were  barbarously  murdered.  Several  battles  were  sub- 
sequently fought  in  different  parts  of  New  Mexico,  in 
all  which  the  combined  forces  of  the  Mexicans  and  In- 
dians were  repulsed.  By  the  treaty  of  peace  in  1848, 
the  Mexican  title  was  cancelled,  and  the  immense  coun- 
try, of  which  this  territory  forms  a  part,  became  an 
adjunct  of  the  United  States.  By  the  act  of  Congress, 
passed  September  9,  1850,  for  defining  the  northern 
and  western  boundaries  of  Texas,  &c.,  a  territorial 
government  for  New  Mexico  was  also  established. 

BOUNDARIES    AND   EXTENT. 

New  Mexico  is  bounded  north  by  the  Territory  of 
Utah,  and  by  a  part  of  the  scarcely  explored  wilderness 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  267 

called  Nebraska  ;  east  by  the  State  of  Texas  ;  south  by» 
a  portion  of  Texas,  and  principally  by  the  boundary 
line  between  the  United  States  and  the  Mexican  pos- 
sessions ;  and  west  by  the  State  of  California.  Its 
eastern  quarter  extends  from  the  32d  to  the  38th 
degree  of  north  latitude,  and  the  residue  of  the  terri- 
tory from  the  33d  to  the  37th.  It  lies  between  103° 
and  116°  west  longitude,  reaching  from  east  to  west 
about  600  miles,  is  from  240  to  360  miles  in  width, 
and  comprises  an  area  of  some  200,000  square  miles. 

SURFACE  AND   SOIL. 

The  face  of  the  country  presents  much  variety.  Stu- 
pendous ranges  of  mountains  —  portions  of  the  great 
vertebrae  of  the  continent  —  traverse  the  eastern  half 
of  the  territory  from  north  to  south,  pierced  occasion- 
ally by  rugged  and  precipitous  gaps,  and  sometimes  by 
tracts  of  prairie,  affording  passage  to  travellers.  This 
region  includes  the  former  provincial  limits  of  New 
Mexico,  and  the  oldest  and  most  populous  settlements. 
The  country  on  the  west  of  these  elevations  exhibits 
immense  plains  or  plateaus,  over  which  are  scattered 
numerous  isolated  mountains  and  broken  ridges  of 
volcanic  origin,  the  peaks  of  some  of  which  rise  to  a 
great  height.  The  valleys  and  slopes  between  the 
eminences  in  the  eastern  section  consist  generally  of 
very  productive  land ;  and  the  river  bottoms,  especial- 
ly near  the  southern  boundary,  comprise  broad  tracts 
of  exceedingly  rich  soil,  adapted  to  the  culture  of 


268        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

•sugar,  and  of  most  of  the  products  of  that  latitude. 
The  portion  of  country  lying  on  the  Gila  and  Colorado 
Rivers,  where  these  advantages  are  very  apparent,  will 
doubtless  attract  the  early  attention  of  settlers.  The 
interior  of  the  western  half  of  the  territory,  so  far  as 
it  has  yet  been  topographically  examined,  is,  for  the 
most  part,  an  arid  and  sterile  desert,  with  the  exception 
of  some  fertile  spots  and  stunted  forests  along  the  mar- 
gin of  streams,  or  among  the  nooks  of  the  high  lands. 
The  soil  in  this  region  seems  to  be  either  sandy  or  to 
consist  of  a  light,  porous  clay,  bearing  a  species  of 
coarse  grass,  'said  to  be  good  winter  fodder  for  cattle. 
The  country  does  not  abound  in  timber,  but  in  some 
locations  is  overgrown  for  miles  with  almost  impene- 
trable thickets  of  mezquite  and  other  thorny  shrubbery. 
Corn,  wheat,  grapes,  peaches,  and  other  grains  and 
fruits,  are  cultivated  in  a  small  way  near  the  villages, 
and  by  some  tribes  of  Indians  in  different  parts  of  the 
territory ;  but  it  is  only  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of 
streams  that  the  land  may  be  considered  productive,  or 
even  inhabitable  by  civilized  beings. 

POPULATION. 

The  census  taken  by  the  civil  authorities  of  the  ter- 
ritory showed  a  population  of  56,984  ;  but  that  of  the 
United  States,  taken  at  nearly  the  same  period,  (1850 
-1,)  gives  a  population  of  61,547,  exclusive  of  Indians, 
of  whom,  perhaps,  it  is  impossible  to  obtain  a  correct 
enumeration.  In  1855  the  number  of  inhabitants  was 
about  75,000. 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  269 


UTAH. 

UTAH  is  a  newly  organized  territory  among  the  dis- 
tant western  possessions  of  the  United  States,  deriving 
its  name  from  that  of  the  Pah-Utahs,  a  numerous  tribe 
of  native  Indians,  heretofore  and  still,  with  other  tribes, 
occupying  large  portions  of  the  country.  It  formerly 
composed  a  very  considerable  share  of  the  wide-spread 
wilderness  known  as  Upper  or  New  California,  and  was 
consequently  considered  a  Mexican  dependency.  Yery 
few  settlements  have  ever  been  made  or  attempted 
within  the  present  limits  of  this  region ;  in  fact,  it  has 
scarcely  been  deemed  habitable  by  civilized  beings. 
The  territory,  together  with  that  of  New  Mexico,  and 
of  the  lately-formed  State  of  California,  fell  to  the 
United  States  by  right  of  conquest,  during  the  war 
with  Mexico,  and  was  duly  transferred  by  the  latter, 
under  the  treaty  of  1848. 

By  the  act  of  Congress  passed  September  9,  1850, 
establishing  a  territorial  government  for  Utah,  the  lim- 
its of  the  territory  are  defined  as  follows  :  Bounded  on 
the  west  by  the  State  of  California ;  on  the  north  by 
the  Territory  of  Oregon ;  on  the  east  by  the  summit  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains  ;  and  on  the  south  by  the  parallel 
of  37°  north  latitude,  which  forms  the  dividing  line 
between  this  territory  and  that  of  New  Mexico.  It  ex- 
tends from  the  37th  to  the  42d  degrees  of  north  lati- 
23* 


270        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

tude,  and  lies  between  the  107th  and  120th  degrees  of 
west  longitude  ;  having  a  breadth  of  300,  and  an  aver- 
age length  from  east  to  west  of  some  600  miles,  con- 
taining an  area  of  about  180,000  square  miles. 

It  is  provided  by  the  same  act,  that  this  territory, 
when  admitted  as  a  state  into  the  Union,  shall  be  re- 
ceived with  or  without  the  toleration  of  slavery,  as  may 
be  prescribed  by  its  own  constitution.  All  free  white 
males,  residents  in  the  territory  at  the  date  of  said  act, 
were  empowered  to  vote  at  the  first  elections,  and  made 
eligible  to  any  office  in  the  territory ;  after  which  the 
legislative  assembly  shall  fix  the  qualifications  of  elect- 
ors. The  governor  holds  office  for  four  years,  and 
receives  his  appointment  from  the  executive  of  the 
United  States.  He  must  reside  within  the  territory, 
act  as  superintendent  of  Indian  affairs,  and  commission 
all  territorial  officers.  He  may  pardon  crimes  against 
the  laws  of  the  territory,  and  reprieve  offenders  against 
the  United  States  laws,  until  the  president's  will  be 
known.  The  president  of  the  United  States  also  ap- 
points a  territorial  secretary  for  a  like  term,  who  ad- 
ministers the  government  in  case  of  the  governor's 
disability.  A  Council  of  13  members,  and  House  of 
Representatives,  26  in  number,  compose  the  legislative 
assembly.  The  former  serve  two  years,  the  latter  one 
year,  and  are  elected  by  plurality  of  the  popular  votes. 
They  are  to  be  chosen  in  appropriate  districts,  and  a 
due  apportionment  thereof  is  to  be  made  by  law. 
Legislative  sessions  are  not  to  continue  beyond  forty 
days.  No  laws  interfering  with  the  primary  disposal 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  271 

of  the  soil,  imposing  taxes  on  United  States  property, 
or  requiring  extra  taxes  on  property  of  non-residents, 
can  be  passed  by  the  legislature.  No  law  is  valid  until 
approved  by  Congress. 

A  Supreme  Court,  District  and  Probate  Courts,  and 
justices  of  the  peace,  constitute  the  judicial  power  of 
the  territory.  The  former  comprises  a  chief  and  two 
associate  justices,  to  sit  annually  at  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment, and  to  hold  office  four  years.  A  District  Court  is 
held  by  one  of  the  supreme  judges,  at  times  provided  by 
law,  in  each  of  the  three  judicial  districts  of  the  terri- 
tory. Justices  of  peace  cannot  try  cases  involving  land 
titles,  or  debts  exceeding  $100.  Both  the  Supreme  and 
District  Courts  have  chancery  powers,  and  common 
law  jurisdiction.  Appeals  from  a  District  to  the  Su- 
preme Court  cannot  have  trials  by  jury.  An  attorney 
and  marshal  are  appointed  by  the  United  States  gov- 
ernment for  a  term  of  four  years. 

After  a  survey  of  the  lands  under  the  authority  of 
the  general  government,  two  sections  in  each  township, 
equivalent  to  one  eighteenth  part  of  the  whole  terri- 
tory, are  to  be  set  apart  for  the  support  of  public  edu- 
cation. It  is  trusted  that  the  sinister  disposal,  in  some 
of  the  new  states  and  territories,  of  similar  liberal 
provisions  for  this  object,  will  in  due  time  be  guarded 
against,  in  this  territory,  by  the  friends  of  common 
schools. 

Regarding  the  finances  of  this  newly-formed  territo- 
ry, there  are  as  yet  no  authentic  reports. 

Those  who  have  explored  the  northern  part  of  the 


272        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

country,  the  number  of  whom  is  not  great,  describe  it 
as  mountainous,  rugged,  and  generally  barren,  without 
forests,  and  destitute  of  valuable  indigenous  vegetation. 
Spots  occasionally  are  presented  which  yield  good  grass 
for  pasturage ;  and  here  and  there  may  be  found  val- 
leys of  small  extent,  which  are  tolerably  fertile.  To- 
wards the  western  boundary,  near  the  bases  of  the 
Sierra  Nevada,  the  soil  is  generally  good.  Numerous 
lakes,  emitting  streams  of  moderate  size,  lie  along  this 
region,  affording  convenient  means  for  irrigation.  But 
the  central  portion  of  the  country,  judging  from  the 
imperfect  accounts  which  are  at  present  accessible,  is  a 
wide  sandy  waste,  producing,  it  is  true,  for  a  short  sea- 
son after  the  winter  rains,  a  profusion  of  grasses  and 
beautiful  flowers,  all  which  the  succeeding  summer 
heat  reduces  to  an  ashy  desert.  In  other  quarters,  the 
country  exhibits  a  rolling  surface,  with  tracts  of  con- 
siderable fertility,  often  well  wooded  and  watered,  with 
frequent  and  extensive  openings  of  prairie  lands,  and 
tracts  of  low  grounds  composed  of  a  rich  and  loamy 
soil.  Upon  the  whole,  although  a  very  large  portion 
of  the  territory  has  never  been  subjected  to  cultivation, 
and  still  seems  unfit  for  the  permanent  abode  of  civil- 
ized human  beings,  it  is  nevertheless  susceptible  of 
unlimited  improvement ;  and  the  efforts  of  industry 
and  science  may  yet  convert  it  into  "  a  land  flowing 
with  milk  and  honey." 

The  principal  rivers  within  the  territory,  so  far  as 
they  have  yet  been  traced  or  partially  examined,  are 
named  Rio  de  los  Animas,  Grand,  White,  Tampa,  Yer- 


THE   GREAT  WEST.  273 

milion,  St.  Mary's,  Vintan,  and  Duchesne  Rivers,  most 
of  which,  with  their  smaller  branches,  flow  from  the 
north-east,  and  ultimately  unite  with  the  Great  Colora- 
do of  the  west.  The  latter  appears  to  take  its  rise  in 
the  western  slopes  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  near  the 
north-east  angle  of  the  territory,  and,  taking  a  south- 
western direction,  passes  through  New  Mexico,  forming 
part  of  the  boundary  between  that  territory  and  the 
State  of  California,  and  finally  discharges  itself  into  the 
Gulf  of  California.  Great  Salt  Lake,  a  vast  body  of 
water  lying  near  the  centre  of  the  northern  boundary, 
is  the  source  of  numerous  watercourses  flowing  north 
and  east.  Humboldt's  River  flows  in  a  north-east 
direction,  from  a  lake  of  that  name  near  the  mountains 
on  the  west.  A  river  of  some  extent  is  connected  with 
Nicollet's  Lake,  a  large  sheet,  lying  in  the  central  part 
of  the  territory.  A  chain  of  lakes  extends  northerly 
from  Humboldt's  Lake,  the  principal  of  which  are  Car- 
son's and  Walker's  Lakes.  Pyramid  Lake,  which  is  of 
considerable  magnitude,  and  several  smaller  collections 
of  water,  lie  at  the  foot  of  the  great  mountain  range 
which  separates  Utah  from  California.  From  each  of 
these,  several  rivers  stretch  out  in  various  directions, 
and  are  finally  lost  in  the  sands  of  the  desert. 

No  regular  mineralogical  survey  of  this  region  has 
yet  been  undertaken,  and  its  mineral  resources,  which 
are  doubtless  great,  remain  of  course  undeveloped. 
Coal,  alum,  and  salt  are  said  to  have  been  found  in 
some  localities.  Excellent  clay  for  the  manufacture  of 
pottery  abounds  in  the  central  and  northern  parts; 


274        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

and  satisfactory  indications  of  iron  ore  have  been  dis- 
covered. 

Beside  the  rude  utensils  and  habiliments  fabricated 
by  the  natives,  there  are  no  manufactured  articles,  of 
any  note,  produced  within  the  territory  ;  unless,  indeed, 
the  operations  of  the  Mormons  be  considered  an  excep- 
tion. This  unique  and  erratic  people,  at  their  large 
settlement  on  Salt  Lake,  have  erected  various  manufac- 
turing establishments,  including  grain  and  lumber 
mills,  woollen  factories,  potteries,  &c.,  and  are  able  to 
construct  most  of  the  farming  or  domestic  implements, 
including  fine  cutlery,  required  for  their  own  use. 
This  settlement,  prior  to  the  organization  of  the  terri- 
tory, was  called  by  the  colonists  "  the  State  of  Deseret." 
The  only  railroad  yet  projected  in  that  country  is  to  be 
forthwith  commenced  here,  to  extend  from  Mormon 
City  eastward,  to  the  base  of  a  mountain,  where  are 
extensive  stone  quarries.  The  chief  purpose  of  the 
road  is  to  convey  stone  and  other  materials  into  the 
city,  for  building. 

But  little  is  known  of  the  present  condition  and 
numbers  of  the  native  tribes  that  are  constantly  roam- 
ing through  this  and  the  neighboring  regions.  The 
character  of  these  wanderers,  generally,  is  no  better 
than  that  of  the  wildest  Arabs  or  Hottentots.  Attempts 
are  in  progress  to  treat  with  some  of  the  more  approach- 
able among  them ;  and,  where  they  can  be  reduced  to 
a  state  less  inconsistent  with  the  true  objects  of  human 
existence  by  no  other  means,  large  bounties  in  lands, 
or  "  tribute  money,"  will  doubtless  be  resorted  to  by 
the  general  government. 


THE  GREAT   WEST.  275 

Excepting  the  colony  composing  the  Mormon  settle- 
ment, and  the  occupants  of  the  few  armed  stations 
established  by  the  United  States,  with  perhaps  an  occa- 
sional ranchero  occupied  by  Roman  Catholic  missiona- 
ries, there  are  no  white  or  civilized  inhabitants  among 
the  population  of  Utah.  At  all  events,  the  enumera- 
tion is  not  yet  completed ;  for  Congress,  by  a  supple- 
ment to  the  act  for  taking  the  seventh  census,  foresee- 
ing the  difficulty  of  completing  the  same  within  the 
State  of  California,  and  the  Territories  of  Oregon,  New 
Mexico,  and  Utah,  by  the  originally  specified  time,  has 
authorized  an  extension  of  the  period,  at  the  discretion 
of  the  secretary  of  the  interior.  Years  may  therefore 
elapse  before  the  completion  of  this  work. 

In  1855,  the  number  of  inhabitants  was  about  25,000. 

The  climate  of  Utah  is  in  general  more  mild  than 
that  of  the  states  on  the  east  included  within  the  same 
latitudes.  Upon  the  sterile  deserts  in  the  central  and 
southern  parts,  the  summer  heats  are  intense,  and  the 
climate  sickly.  Nearer  the  more  fertile  districts  on  the 
west,  the  temperature  is  equable,  with  less  difference 
between  the  extremes  of  heat  and  cold  than  is  usually 
the  case  on  the  Atlantic  coast.  The  elevated  lands,  to 
a  certain  height,  are  considered  very  healthy ;  but 
travellers  upon  the  mountain  summits  have  frequently 
been  attacked  by  fatal  fevers  and  other  alarming  mal- 
adies. In  the  north,  the  winters  are  sufficiently  mod- 
erate to  admit  of  hydraulic  operations  throughout  most 
of  the  season. 

The  only  religious  organization,  if  it  can  be  so  called, 


276  THE   GREAT  WEST. 

which  is  now  maintained  in  the  territory,  is  that  of  the 
Mormons,  "  or  Latter  Day  Saints."  Besides  their  es- 
tablishment at  Salt  Lake,  they  have  formed  a  colony  in 
Iron  county,  about  250  miles  south,  among  the  high 
lands  near  the  boundary  of  New  Mexico ;  a  position, 
around  which  the  country  is  well  wooded  and  watered, 
abounding  in  iron  ore,  and  promising  plenty  of  coal. 


278        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 


OREGON. 

.ONE  of  the  recently-organized  territories  of  the 
United  States,  embracing  a  vast  region,  extending  from 
the  Rocky  Mountains  on  the  east  to  the  Pacific  Ocean 
on  the  west.  The  Columbia  River,  its  principal 
stream,  was  discovered  in  1792,  and  named  by  Captain 
Gray,  of  ship  Columbia,  of  Boston.  Having  pene- 
trated the  river  for  some  distance,  and  established  the 
fact  of  its  existence,  the  title  by  discovery  belonged  to 
the  United  States.  Under  the  authority  of  this  govern- 
ment, Captains  Lewis  and  Clarke,  in  1804  and  1805, 
explored  the  country  from  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  where  they  passed  the 
following  winter,  thus  strengthening  the  claim  of  the 
United  States  to  the  territory,  this  exploration  of  the 
river  being  the  first  ever  made  by  civilized  adventurers. 
The  first  trading  house  established  in  that  region  was 
erected  on  Lewis's  River,  a  branch  of  the  Columbia,  in 
1808,  by  the  Missouri  Fur  Company  ;  and  in  1811  the 
town  of  Astoria  was  founded  by  the  Pacific  Fur  Com- 
pany, under  John  Jacob  Astor,  of  New  York.  This 
post  was  subsequently  transferred  to  the  British  "  Hud- 
son's Bay  Company,"  in  consequence  of  its  exposed 
situation  during  the  war  of  1812,  but  was  afterwards 
restored,  according  to  a  stipulation  in  the  treaty  of 
Ghent.  The  British  government,  however,  claimed 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  279 

certain  portions  of  the  northern  part  of  the  country  ; 
and  the  question  of  boundary  between  the  English  and 
American  possessions  was  for  a  long  time  a  matter 
of  controversy  and  negotiation.  The  subject  was  at 
length  adjusted  in  1847,  and  the  49th  parallel  of  north, 
latitude  agreed  upon  as  the  line  of  demarcation.  Con- 
gress, at  about  the  same  period,  passed  an  act  for  the 
organization  of  a  territorial  government.  The  pro- 
visions of  this  act,  so  far  as  they  relate  to  civil  and  ju- 
dicial magistrates,  to  the  Indians,  the  public  lands, 
school  reservations,  &c.,  are  similar  to  those  established 
in  the  case  of  Minnesota  Territory.  (See  Minnesota.) 
The  act  has  since  been  amended  in  some  particulars ; 
but  its  general  features  are  not  essentially  altered. 

The  Territory  of  Oregon  is  bounded  north  by  the 
British  possessions,  from  which  it  is  divided  at  the 
parallel  of  49°  north  latitude  ;  east  by  the  main  range 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  separating  it  from  the  waste 
region  of  Nebraska ;  south  by  the  Territory  of  Utah 
and  the  State  of  California ;  and  west  by  the  Pacific 
Ocean.  It  extends  from  latitude  42°  north  to  the 
above  parallel,  and,  along  its  southern  boundary, 
reaches  from  the  108th  to  the  124th  degree  of  west  lon- 
gitude. Its  area  is  estimated  at  upwards  of  340,000 
square  miles. 

The  surface  presents  three  distinct  sections  or  tracts 
of  country,  formed  by  separate  and  nearly  parallel 
mountain  ranges,  two  of  which  extend  through  the 
territory  from  north  to  south.  The  Cascade  Mountains 
form  the  eastern  limit  of  the  first  section,  its  western 


280        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

boundary  being  the  ocean;  between  these  mountains 
and  the  next  eastern  range,  called  the  Blue  Mountains, 
lies  the  middle  or  second  section ;  and  the  third  sec- 
tion, still  farther  eastward,  reaches  to  the  Rocky 
Mountains. 

These  divisions  differ  considerably  in  most  of  their 
physical  characteristics  —  in  soil,  climate,  and  natural 
products.  The  soil  of  the  western  or  coast  section,  for 
the  space  of  100  to  150  miles  east  of  the  ocean,  is  not 
remarkably  well  adapted  to  the  growth  of  grains,  al- 
though many  kinds  of  vegetable  esculents  may  be  suc- 
cessfully cultivated.  The  land  is  well  timbered  with 
firs,  spruce,  pine,  oaks,  ash,  cedar,  poplar,  maple,  wil- 
low, and  other  forest  trees.  Fruit  trees  of  the  more 
hardy  kinds,  shrubbery,  vines,  &c.,  are  found  to  thrive 
in  all  unexposed  places.  Towards  the  coast,  some  of 
the  forest  trees  attain  a  prodigious  size  and  height. 
Near  Astoria,  8  miles  from  the  sea,  there  is,  or 
recently  was,  a  fir  tree  46  feet  in  girth,  and  300  feet 
high,  the  trunk  rising  to  a  height  of  153  feet  before 
giving  off  a  single  branch.  On  the  banks  of  the  River 
Umpqua  is  a  still  more  enormous  specimen  of  the  fir, 
being  57  feet  in  circumference,  and  216  feet  high  below 
the  branches.  Pines  reaching  an  altitude  of  200  to  300 
feet,  and  20  to  40  feet  round,  are  quite  common.  Good 
grazing  tracts,  and  lands  suited  to  the  culture  of  many 
kinds  of  grain,  and  to  the  growth  of  pears,  apples,  and 
similar  fruits,  are  found  in  the  interior  of  this  section 
and  at  the  base  of  the  Cascade  Mountains.  The  climate 
in  this  quarter  is  mild,  though  affected  unfavorably  at 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  281 

• 

times  by  the  raw  sea  fogs.  It  is  not,  however,  unhealthy. 
The  winters  continue  only  from  two  to  three  months, 
commencing  in  December,  though  the  rainy  season 
lasts  from  November  to  March.  Snow  is  not  common, 
except  upon  the  summits  of  the  mountains.  The  middle 
section  of  the  territory  possesses  a  fair  soil,  consisting  in 
part  of  a  light,  sandy  loam,  with  many  tracts  of  rich 
alluvion  in  the  valleys.  It  is  peculiarly  suited  to  the 
production  of  wheat,  and  is  fruitful  in  almost  every 
description  of  vegetation.  The  climate  here,  especially 
towards  the  south,  is  uniformly  pleasant  and  salubri- 
ous. The  third  division,  lying  between  the  Blue  and 
Kocky  Mountains,  is  extremely  rough,  and  generally 
barren,  with  a  correspondingly  uncongenial  climate. 
It  is  traversed  by  gigantic  and  lofty  mountain  ridges  in 
various  directions,  and  so  broken  into  rocky  masses  as 
to  present  few  level  or  productive  spots.  It  is  covered, 
in  the  elevated  parts,  with  snow,  to  a  greater  or  less 
depth,  during  almost  the  entire  year.  Rain  seldom 
falls,  nor  are  there  any  dews.  The  temperature  often 
varies  40°  between  sunrise  and  noon.  Much  less  is 
known  of  the  two  last-mentioned  sections  of  country 
than  of  that  which  lies  on  the  shore  of  the  Pacific,  the 
chief  seat  at  present  of  all  the  commercial  trading 
operations  of  the  country. 

A  number  of  extensive  and  capacious  rivers  flow 
through  the  territory,  generally  taking  their  rise  in  the 
mountains,  and  their  course  towards  the  Pacific.  The 
chief  among  these  is  the  Columbia,  (sometimes  called 
the  Oregon,)  which  originates  in  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
24*  ' 


282       THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

• 

and,  after  a  devious  track  of  many  hundred  miles,  en- 
ters the  Pacific  Ocean  from  the  east  in  latitude  46°  19' 
north.  It  is  navigable  for  vessels  of  12  feet  draught 
for  120  miles,  and  for  boats  some  40  miles  beyond,  to 
the  falls  of  the  Cascade  Mountains.  Some  travellers 
describe  it  as  excelling  most  of  the  celebrated  rivers  of 
North  America  in  beauty  and  magnificence.  At  its 
mouth  lies  a  large  and  commodious  estuary,  the  en- 
trance to  which  from  the  ocean  is  somewhat  intricate, 
but  which  affords  shelter  and  good  anchorage  to  vessels 
of  the  largest  tonnage.  The  Columbia,  in  its  long  and 
tortuous  course,  receives  the  waters  of  numerous  tribu- 
taries flowing  from  the  north,  the  east,  and  the  south. 
Some  of  these  are  of  great  volume  and  extent,  and  are 
also  supplied  by  countless  smaller  branches  and  forks, 
stretching  from  every  point,  and  presenting  thousands 
of  admirable  mill  sites.  The  other  rivers  which  com- 
municate directly  with  the  Pacific  are  the  Klamath 
and  the  Umpqua,  both  south  of  the  Columbia,  and  ex- 
tending inland  only  to  the  first  or  coast  range  of  moun- 
tains. The  principal  rivers  which  empty  into  the  Co- 
lumbia at  various  points,  are  the  Canoe,  Kootanie, 
Clark's,  Spokan,  Okanagan,  Lewis,  Kooskooske,  Sal- 
mon, Umatilla,  Quisnel's,  John  Day's,  Chute,  Cathla- 
tate's,  Cowelitz,  and  Willamette.  The  last  named  is 
a  very  important  stream,  flowing  through  a  spacious 
and  fertile  valley,  and  uniting  with  the  Columbia  at  a 
point  not  many  miles  from  the  ocean. 

A  number  of  settlements  have  been  made  upon  the 
shores  of  the  Columbia  ;  and  on  the  banks  of  the  Wil- 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  283 

lamette  are  situated  some  of  the  largest  villages  and 
towns  in  the  territory.  Among  the  former  are  Fort 
Vancouver,  Astoria,  St.  Helen's,  and  Milton,  the  first 
two  of  which  are  places  of  considerable  trade  ;  and 
among  the  latter  are  Portland,  already  containing  15,000 
inhabitants,  several  mills,  churches,  school  houses, 
&c.,  Milwaukie,  Oregon  City,  Linn  City,  Champoeg, 
Salem,  and  many  others,  all  possessing  ample  water 
privileges,  surrounded  by  a  fine  agricultural  country, 
and  inhabited  by  an  industrious,  intelligent,  moral,  and 
thriving  people.  Farther  in  the  interior  are  Hills- 
borough  and  Lafayette,  the  latter  having  a  population 
of  800.  A  railroad  from  Milton,  on  the  Columbia,  to 
Lafayette,  and  thence  into  the  interior,  is  in  contempla- 
tion, at  an  estimated  cost  of  $500,000. 

The  mountains  of  Oregon  frequently  shoot  up  into* 
conical  peaks  of  astonishing  height,  presenting  objects  of 
grand  and  awful  sublimity.  The  summits  of  many  of 
these  towering  eminences  in  the  coast  range  reach  an 
elevation  of  from  12,000  to  14,000  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea,  ascending  to  twice  the  altitude  of  the  region 
of  perpetual  snow,  and  bidding  defiance  to  the  approach 
of  human  footsteps.  The  Rocky  Mountains,  that  im- 
mense natural  barrier  on  the  east,  rise  in  many  places 
to  a  still  greater  elevation.  They  form  a  continuous 
chain,  often  ascending  to  a  height  of  16,000  feet,  but 
occasionally  offering  to  the  hardy  traveller  some  con- 
venient depression  or  gap  whereby  he  may  pass  from 
side  to  side.  In  the  northern  part  of  this  range  are 
the  sources  of  Frazer's  River,  which  finds  its  outlet  at 


284        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

the  north-west  corner  of  the  territory,  after  a  course 
of  350  miles  through  the  British  possessions.  The 
northern  branch  of  the  Columbia  rises  in  these  moun- 
tains, in  latitude  50°  north,  and,  after  having  traversed 
this  elevated  region  some  220  miles,  and  having  fallen 
550  feet,  is  still  found,  at  Fort  Colville,  half  way  across 
the  territory,  to  be  over  2000  feet  above  the  ocean  level. 

The  lands  around  Puget's  Sound,  in  the  north-west 
part  of  Oregon,  are  among  the  most  valuable  in  the 
territory  for  agricultural  purposes,  as  well  as  for  com- 
mercial pursuits.  They  consist  of  extensive  prairies, 
which  furnish  food  for  great  numbers  of  horses,  cattle, 
swine,  <fec.  Several  flourishing  settlements  are  estab- 
lished in  this  vicinity,  and  a  large  amount  of  trade  is 
carried  on.  A  considerable  portion  of  the  inhabitants 
are  French  and  English  emigrants  from  Canada.  Much 
excellent  timber  is  found  in  this  region ;  and  mills 
have  been  erected  upon  the  adjacent  streams,  where 
there  are  many  valuable  waterfalls.  The  waters  of 
this  sound  abound  in  shell  and  other  fish.  The  tide 
regularly  flows  and  ebbs  from  15  to  18  feet,  and  the 
navigation  is  unobstructed  and  safe. 

Oregon  is  extremely  rich  in  mineral  resources, 
especially  in  the  southern  quarter,  contiguous  to  the 
State  of  California.  Large  quantities  of  gold  are  dug 
in  the  fertile  and  pleasant  valleys  of  the  Klamath  and 
the  Umpqua.  It  is  found  even  among  the  roots  of  the 
prairie  grass.  A  lump  valued  at  $230  was  recently 
taken  from  a  sod ;  and  those  who  are  in  search  of  the 
precious  metal  in  this  section  —  of  whom  there  are 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  285 

thousands  —  seldom  dig  to  a  depth  of  more  than  3  feet. 
Iron  ore  abounds  on  the  Columbia;  and  among  the 
other  minerals  already  found  in  different  parts  of  the 
territory  are  copper,  lead,  platina,  plumbago,  sulphur, 
salt,  and  coal.  The  latter  is  very  abundant  on  the 
Cowlitz  River  and  at  Puget's  Sound. 

There  are  many  populous  tribes  of  Indians  within 
the  territory,  whose  views  and  feelings  are  dissimilar 
in  regard  to  the  encroachments  of  the  white  man,  and 
the  advancement  of  civilization  around  them.  The 
most  powerful  tribe  are  the  Shoshonoes,  or  Snake  In- 
dians, who  are  said  to  number  15,000.  The  other 
principal  tribes  are  the  Matheads,  Matbows,  Pointed 
Hearts,  and  Pierced  Noses.  There  are  besides  numer- 
ous smaller  tribes.  The  governor  of  the  territory  in 
his  message  to  the  legislature,  in  the  spring  of  1851, 
advocates  the  passage  of  a  law  by  Congress  for  the  pro- 
tection of  the  Indian  tribes. 

The  population  of  this  territory  has  multiplied  pro- 
digiously within  a  very  few  years.  In  1840  the  num- 
ber was  estimated  at  only  700  or  800.  At  this  time, 
exclusive  of  Indians,  it  is  probably  not  less  than  50,000. 
The  new  towns  are  generally  peopled  by  emigrants 
from  the  old  states,  who  appear  to  be  sufficiently  aware 
of  the  value  of  orderly  and  liberal  institutions,  and 
have  made  due  provision  for  their  establishment  and 
maintenance.  They  acknowledge  the  necessity  of  the 
immediate  construction  of  roads  and  other  improve- 
ments, at  the  public  expense ;  the  establishment  of  a 
generous  system  of  common  education,  and  the  enact- 


286        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

ment  of  laws  founded  on  those  principles  of  justice  and 
benevolence  which  distinguish  the  general  codes  of 
the  several  members  of  the  federal  Union. 

At  a  late  session  of  the  territorial  legislature,  the 
capital  of  the  state  was  located  at  Salem,  on  the  River 
Willamette.  Acts  also  were  passed  for  the  establish- 
ment of  a  penitentiary  at  Portland,  and  a  university  at 
Marysville. 

The  time  cannot  be  very  remote  when  Oregon  will  be 
united,  by  a  direct  chain  of  intercommunication,  with 
all  the  states  and  territories  lying  between  the  Rocky 
Mountains  and  the  equally  rocky  strand  of  the  Atlan- 
tic Ocean.  Already,  in  fact,  the  work  may  be  said  to 
have  advanced  half  way  towards  completion.  The 
Great  Northern  Route,  so  called,  embraces  a  cordon  of 
railroads  to  extend  from  Boston  and  New  York  to  Du- 
buque,  in  Iowa,  a  great  portion  of  the  line  being  fin- 
ished and  in  travelling  order,  and  the  residue  in  a  state 
of  forwardness.  This  line  runs  directly  west  upon,  or 
very  near,  the  parallel  of  42°  north  latitude,  scarcely 
varying  a  whole  degree  in  its  entire  course,  thus  far, 
of  over  1100  miles.  From  Boston  and  New  York  to 
Buffalo  and  Niagara  Falls,  this  route  has  long  been  in 
active  operation.  Some  few  curves  between  Syracuse 
and  Buffalo  are  to  be  overcome  by  a  rectilinear  section, 
which  will  be  continued  beyond  the  falls,  through  the 
southern  portion  of  Canada  West,  to  Detroit,  in  Michi- 
gan. From  the  latter  point  the  Michigan  Central  Rail- 
road now  extends  across  that  state,  and  around  the 
southern  margin  of  Lake  Michigan  to  Chicago  ;  thence 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  287 

the  line  is  to  proceed  to  Dubuque,  traversing  the  north- 
ern boundary  of  Illinois,  and  crossing  to  the  western 
shore  of  the  Mississippi.  Here,  however,  it  cannot  be 
stayed.  The  Iowa  Central  Railroad  will  take  up  the 
work,  and  carry  it  to  the  borders  of  Nebraska.  At  this 
last  terminus  only  is  any  obstacle  to  be  apprehended 
that  cannot  be  quickly  removed  by  the  enterprise  of 
the  surrounding  population.  It  becomes  a  national 
duty,  then,  to  extend  the  work  through  that  desolate 
wilderness,  until  it  shall  touch  the  southern  boundary 
of  Oregon,  in  the  same  latitude  of  42°.  California  and 
Oregon  will  then  consummate  the  enterprise,  thus 
securing  a  direct  and  uninterrupted  connection  between 
the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  Oceans,  across  the  body  of  the 
continent,  and  interjoining,  by  an  imperishable  belt  of 
union,  the  inhabitants  and  the  interests  df  the  eastern 
and  western  extremes  of  this  vast  confederacy. 

AGRICULTURE. 

There  were  in  this  state,  in  1855,  200,000  acres  of 
improved  land  ;  acres  of  land  unimproved,  400,000,  in 
farms.  Cash  value  of  the  farms,  $3,400,000  ;  imple- 
ments and  machinery  attached  thereto,  $215,000.  Val- 
ue of  live  stock,  $2,300,000.  The  wheat  crop  of  1855 
was  500,000  bushels ;  rye,  200  bushels ;  Indian  corn, 
5000  ;  oats,  100,000  ;  peas  and  beans,  10,000  ;  potatoes, 
150,000.  Value  of  the  products  of  the  orchard,  $2000. 
Value  of  the  products  of  the  market  gardens,  $125,000. 


288        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 


WASHINGTON   TERRITORY. 

WASHINGTON,  a  territory  of  the  United  States  of 
America,  lies  between  latitude  45°  25'  north,  longi- 
tude 108°  30'  and  124°  30'  west.  Area,  113,821 
square  miles.  It  is  between  the  Rocky  Mountains  on 
the  east  and  the  Pacific  Ocean  on  the  west,  has  Oregon 
on  its  south  border,  and  the  British  possessions  on  the 
north.  The  entire  population  in  1850  was  1201 ;  in 
1854,  estimated  at  5000.  It  is  divided  into  6  counties, 
viz.,  Clark,  Lewis,  Pacific,  Pierce,  Stevens,  Thurston. 
The  country  west  of  the  Cascade  range  is  the  only 
portion  yet  settled  by  a  white  population  ;  it  has  a  di- 
versified surface,  and  the  valleys  bordering  the  streams 
have  a  luxuriant  soil.  The  streams  are  small,  the 
Cowlitz  and  other  small  streams  entering  the  Colum- 
bia River  on  the  south,  the  Chickeeles  entering  Gray's 
Harbor  on  the  west,  and  a  number  of  other  streams 
entering  Puget  Sound  on  the  north-west.  Puget 
Sound,  Hood's  Canal,  and  Admiralty  Inlet,  abound 
with  fine  harbors.  The  Cascade  range  crosses  the  ter- 
ritory from  the  south,  (at  the  Cascades  on  the  Colum- 
bia River,)  entirely  across  it  to  the  north,  rising  in 
several  peaks  above  the  snow  line,  as  Mount  St.  Helen's, 
(an  active  volcano,)  Mount  Rainier,  Mount  Boker,  &c. 
East  of  this  range  little  is  known  of  the  capabilities  of 
the  country  as  an  agricultural  region,  although  there 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  289 

is  no  doubt  of  its  being  well  adapted  for  stock  raising. 
It  is  drained  by  the  constituents  of  the  Columbia,  con- 
sisting of  Kooskoosky  and  Peloose  Rivers  of  the  Lewis 
fork,  and  Spokane,  Okonagan,  Barrier,  and  Yakima 
Rivers  of  the  Clark's  fork,  and  Cathalacades  entering 
the  Columbia  River. 
The  Strait  of 

JUAN    DE    FUCA,  ^ 

including  the  waters  of  Admiralty  Inlet,  Hood  Canal, 
and  Puget  Sound,  with  the  Archipelago  of  Arro  up  to 
the  49th  parallel,  were  all  surveyed  by  the  United 
States  Exploring  Expedition.  The  whole  is  unsur- 
passed by  any  estuary  in  the  world.  They  comprise 
many  very  fine  harbors  and  safe  anchorages,  are  entire- 
ly free  from  dangers,  and  cover  an  area  of  about  2000 
square  miles.  The  country  by  which  these  waters  are 
surrounded  is  remarkably  salubrious,  and  offers  every 
advantage  for  the  accommodation  of  a  vast  commer- 
cial and  military  marine,  with  conveniences  for  docks, 
and  many  sites  for  towns  and  cities,  at  all  times  well 
supplied  with  water,  and  capable  of  being  provided 
with  all  needful  supplies  from  the  surrounding  coun- 
try, which  is  well  adapted  for  agriculture.  This  strait 
is  95  miles  in  length ;  average  width  11  miles,  (en- 
trance 8  miles  in  width ;)  no  dangers  exist,  and  it  may 
be  safely  navigated  throughout. 
25 


290  THE  GARDEN   OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

NEAH,    OR    SCARBOROUGH   HARBOR, 

on  the  south  side  of  the  strait,  just  within  Cape  Flat- 
tery, is  but  a  small  indentation  in  the  coast,  which  is 
partly  sheltered  on  the  north-east  by  Neah  Island. 
This  is  the  position  where  the  Spaniards  attempted  to 
establish  themselves  in  1792,  and  the  remains  of  the 
old  fort  are  still  in  existence.  It  offers  a  tolerably  safe 
and  convenient  anchorage,  though  exposed  to  north- 
west gales. 

NEW    DUNGENESS 

is  a  safe  roadstead,  and  lies  80  miles  from  Cape 
Flattery,  east  by  south  true,  the  trend  of  the  strait 
being  east  by  southland  west  by  north,  nearly.  The 
point  of  New  Dungeness  is  well  adapted  for  the  position 
of  a  lighthouse  ;  it  projects  into  the  strait,  and  would 
be  seen  a  long  distance  both  up  and  down.  The  water 
close  to  the  point  is  deep :  a  vessel  may  approach  to 
within  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  and  after  turning  it,  safe 
and  secure  anchorage  may  be  had  in  from  10  to  15 
fathoms  of  water.  It  is  extensive  enough  to  accommo- 
date a  very  large  fleet. 

* 

BUDD    HARBOR 

lies  adjoining  it,  and  is  connected  with  the  roadstead 
of  New  Dungeness  by  a  narrow  channel,  which  has  a 
depth  of  2i  fathoms,  and  may  be  easily  deepened  if 
necessary.  It  is  a  fine  and  very  capacious  harbor,  be- 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  291 

ing  4  miles  long,  and  1|  wide,  and  perfectly  secure 
at  all  times  for  repairs. 

p  POET    DISCOVERY, 

7  miles  to  the  south-east  of  New  Dungeness,  is  very 
easy  of  access,  and  well  protected  by  high,  precipitous 
banks ;  the  anchorage  is  close  to  the  shore,  in  27 
fathoms  of  water.  The  name  of  Port  Discovery  was 
given  by  Vancouver.  It  is  7  miles  long,  l£*  average 
breadth,  and  its  points,  which  terminate  in  low,  sandy 
projections,  interlock  each  other.  Protection  Island 
covers  it  completely  to  the  north,  and  would  render  it 
easily  defensible  against  a  formidable  attack. 

POET    TOWNSEND, 

at  the  entrance  of  Admiralty  Inlet,  is  a  fine  sheet  of 
water,  3£  miles  long,  and  If  in  width.  This  bay  is  free 
from  dangers,  and  is  well  protected  in  the  direction 
from  which  stormy  winds  blow.  It  has  anchorage  of  a 
convenient  depth,  and  there  is  abundance  of  fresh 
water  to  be  had ;  the  best  anchorage  is  on  the  north 
side.  The  soil  in  this  place  is  a  light  sandy  loam,  very 
productive. 

PORT    LAWRENCE 

is  just  at  the  junction  of  Admiralty  Inlet  and  Hood 
Canal ;  it  is  a  convenient  anchorage,  and  is  separated 
from  one  of  the  arms  of  Port  Townsend  by  a  narrow 


292        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

strip  of  land.  Passing  the  entrance  to  Hood  Canal, 
and  up  Admiralty  Inlet,  there  are  several  anchorages 
where  a  vessel  may  await  tide  in  beating  up  ;  such  as 
Pilot  and  Apple-Tree  Cove. 

PORT  MADISON 

is  a  fine  harbor,  and  affords  every  possible  convenience 
for  shipping.  It  is  on  the  west  side  of  the  inlet,  and 
communicates  on  the  south  by  a  ship  channel  with  Port 
Orchard,  which  is  one  of  the  most  extensive  and  beau- 
tiful of  the  many  fine  harbors  on  these  inland  waters, 
and  is  perfectly  protected  from  the  winds.  The  only 
danger  is  a  reef  of  rocks  nearly  in  the  middle  of  the 
entrance  from  Admiralty  Inlet.  It  includes  3  arms, 
the  most  northern  of  which,  though  entered  by  a  nar- 
row channel,  is  from  £  to  l£  mile  in  width,  and  extends 
for  a  distance  of  6  miles.  The  shores  are  covered  with 
a  large  growth  of  trees,  with  here  and  there  a  small 
prairie.  The  soil  is  superior  to  that  of  most  places 
around  the  sound,  and  is  capable  of  yielding  almost 
any  production  of  the  temperate  zone. 

VASHON    ISLAND 

lies  in  Admiralty  Inlet,  above  Port  Orchard,  and  has  a 
ship  channel  on  both  sides  of  it. 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  293 

COMMENCEMENT  BAY 

<  * 

lies  at  the  Bottom  of  Admiralty  Inlet,  on  the  east  chan- 
nel. It  affords  good  temporary  anchorage,  and  a  supply 
of  wood  and  water  can  Be  obtained.  There  is  a  small 
stream  emptying  into  it,  called  by  the  Indians  Puyallup. 

THE  NARROWS, 

which  connect  Admiralty  Inlet  with  Puget  Sound,  are 
1  mile  wide,  and  4£  long.  The  tide  here  runs  with 
great  velocity,  causing  many  whirlpools  and  eddies, 
through  which  a  ship  is  carried  with  great  rapidity,  the 
danger  appearing  to  be  imminent.  The  banks  rise 
nearly  perpendicular,  and  are  composed  of  sandstone. 
Point  Defiance,  on  the  east,  commands  all  the  ap- 
proaches to  it. 

PUGET    SOUND 

is  a  collection  of  inlets,  covering  an  area  of  15  square 
miles,  the  only  entrance  to  which  is  through  the  Nar- 
rows, which,  if  strongly  fortified,  would  be  almost  im- 
pregnable. The  inlets,  in  the  order  in  which  they  come 
from  the  entrance,  have  received  the  names  of  Carr, 
Case,  Hammersley,  Totten,  Eld,  Budd,  and  Henderson. 
They  are  united  by  passages,  which  form  several  islands 
and  peninsulas.  All  these  inlets  are  safe,  and  commo- 
dious, and  capacious  harbors,  well  supplied  with  water, 
and  the  land  around  them  fertile.  Nine  miles  from 
the  Narrows  is  Nisqually.  Here  the  anchorage  is  very 
25* 


294        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR    * 

much  contracted,  in  consequence  of  the  rapid  shelving 
of  the  bank,  that  soon  drops  off  into  deep  water.  The 
shore  rises  abruptly  to  a  height  of  200  feet,  and  on  the 
top  of  the  ascent  is  an  extended  plain,  on  which  Fort 
Nisqually  is  built. 

CASE   INLET 

extends  to  within  two  miles  of  the  waters  of  Hood 
Canal. 

HOOD    CANAL 

extends  for  a  distance  of  40  miles  in  a  south-west  di- 
rection, and  then  turns  to  the  north-east  for  10  miles, 
approaching  the  waters  of  Puget  Sound,  with  an  aver- 
age width  of  2  miles.  It  contains  several  good  harbors, 
viz.,  Port  Ludlow,  Port  Gamble,  Suquamish,  and  Scab- 
ock  Harbor,  and  Dabop  Bay.  On  the  east  side  of  Ad- 
miralty Inlet,  as  well  as  at  the  head  of  De  Fuca  Strait, 
and  the  waters  within  the  Gulf  de  Arro  as  far  as  Point 
Roberts,  in  latitude  49°  north,  there  are  many  fine 
harbors  and  bays,  formed  by  the  islands  apd  projecting 
headlands,  viz.,  Commencement  Bay,  Eliot  Bay,  [Port 
Gardner,  Port  Susan,  Holmes  Harbor,  Penn  Cove,] 
Hornet  Harbor,  Strawberry  Bay,  Billingham  and  Birch 
Bays.  Those  within  the  brackets  lie  within  Whidby 
Island. 

THE    NAVAL   ARCHIPELAGO, 

between  the  Canal  de  Arro  and  Einggold  Channel, 
offers  many  fine  anchorages.  The  Gulf  of  Georgia  and 


THE  GREAT   WEST.  295 

Johnson  Strait  are  not  well  adapted  for  navigation,  in 
consequence  of  the  rapidity  of  the  tides,  and  the  many 
sunken  rocks  at  the  northern  outlet.  The  harbors 
within  them,  both  on  the  main  land  and  Vancouver 
Island,  are  useless,  on  account  of  the  great  depth  of 
water  and  the  perpendicular  banks.  Not  a  shoal  exists 
within,  the  Strait  of  Juan  de  Fuca,  Admiralty  Inlet, 
Puget  Sound,  or  Hood  Canal,  that  can  in  any  way  in- 
terrupt their  navigation  by  a  seventy-four  gun  ship. 
The  shores  of  all  the  inlets  and  bays  are  remarkably 
bold,  so  much  so,  that  in  many  places  a  ship's  side 
would  strike  the  shore  before  the  keel  would  touch  the 
ground.  Some  few  of  them  have  creeks  emptying  into 
them,  with  water  sufficient  to  turn  mills.  These  creeks 
have  all  extensive  mud  flats  at  their  entrances,  with 
fertile  prairies  at  their  heads  and  along  their  banks. 
The  spring  tides  rise  18  feet ;  those  of  the  neap,  12 
feet,  affording  every  facility  for  the  construction  of  dry 
docks,  &c.  The  country  on  all  these  salt  water  inlets 
is  said  to  be  remarkably  healthy.  The  winter  is  repre- 
sented to  be  mild,  and  but  of  short  duration,  and  the 
channels  and  harbors  are  never  obstructed  by  ice. 

The  climate  is  said  to  be  unusually  mild  and  even  in 
temperature  for  so  high  a  north  latitude. .  The  country 
near  Puget  Sound  abounds  with  fine  timber,  and  its 
waters  with  excellent  fish. 

Olympia  is  the  capital,  situated  on  Budd's  Inlet,  at 
the  head  of  Puget  Sound.  Other  principal  settlements 
are  Cowlitz,  Pacific  City,  Nisqually,  &c. 

The  government  consists  of  a  governor,  a  Council, 


296  THE  GREAT  WEST. 

and  House  of  Representatives.  The  governor  is  ap- 
pointed by  the  president  of  the  United  States  for  the 
term  of  four  years  ;  the  legislative  assembly  is  elected 
by  the  people.  Every  white  male  inhabitant  21  years 
of  age,  and  a  citizen  of  the  United  States,  is  a  qualified 
elector. 

This  territory  was  separated  from  Oregon  in  1853, 
and  constituted  a  distinct  territory. 


298  THE  GARDEN   OP  THE  WORLD,  OB 


CALIFORNIA. 

CALIFORNIA  has  recently  become  one  of  the  United 
States.  A  part  of  the  country  was  discovered  as  early 
as  1542,  by  a  Spaniard  named  Cobrillo  ;  and  its  north- 
ern section  was  visited  for  the  first  time  by  foreigners 
in  1578,  when  Sir  Francis  Drake,  then  at  the  head  of  an 
expedition  from  England,  gave  to  this  region  the  name 
of  New  Albion.  The  Spaniards  planted  colonies  upon 
its  sea  coast  in  1768,  from  which  period,  until  1836,  the 
territory  was  a  province  of  Mexico.  In  the  latter  year 
a  revolution  occurred.  The  people,  after  having  fre- 
quently compelled  the  Mexican  governors  and  other 
officials  to  abandon  their  posts,  declared  themselves 
independent,  and  undertook  to  organize  new  political 
institutions.  Several  weak  and  ineffectual  attempts  to 
regain  absolute  control  were  made  from  time  to  time  by 
the  Mexicans,  until  the  year  1846.  In  July  of  that  year 
the  port  of  Monterey,  a  central  point  on  the  Pacific 
coast  of  the  state,  was  seized,  in  the  name  of  the  United 
States,  by  a  naval  force  under  Commodore  Sloat,  who 
at  once  unfurled  the  American  flag,  and  established  a 
provisional  government.  At  that  epoch,  the  adminis- 
tration of  the  affairs  of  the  territory  was  in  the 
hands  of  a  civil  governor  and  a  military  commandant, 
both  natives  of  California,  but  holding  commissions  from 
the  President  of  Mexico.  In  1848  the  discovery  of  a 


THE   GREAT  WEST. 


gold  "  placer "  at  Columa,  (Sutler's  Mills,)  and  the 
ascertained  reality  of  its  extraordinary  richness,  followed 
immediately  by  farther  and  equally  surprising  develop- 
ments, startled  the  whole  civilized  world,  and  a  tide  of 
immigration  began  to  flow  in  from  every  quarter,  with 
a  rapidity  and  volume  unparalleled  in  the  history  of 
nations.  The  population  forthwith  attained  the  re- 
quired number  for  the  formation  of  a  distinct  state. 
The  inhabitants  prepared  and  submitted  to  Congress  the 
draught  of  a  constitution;  and  in  September,  1850, 
California  was  admitted  into  full  membership  as  one  of 
the  United  States. 

BOUNDARIES  AND  EXTENT. 

By  the  constitution,  adopted  by  the  people  in  Novem- 
ber, 1849,  and  by  the  act  of  Congress  consequent 
thereon,  the  limits  of  California  are  established  as  fol- 
lows :  Commencing  at  latitude  42°  north,  and  longitude 
120°  west ;  thence  running  south  on  said  line  of  longi- 
tude till  it  intersects  the  39th  degree  of  north  latitude ; 
thence  in  a  direct  course  south-easterly  to  the  River 
Colorado ;  thence  down  the  channel  of  said  river  to  the 
boundary  between  Mexico  and  the  United  States ;  thence 
along  said  boundary  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  into  the 
same  three  English  miles ;  thence  north-westerly,  in  the 
direction  of  the  Pacific  coast,  to  the  original  parallel  of 
42°;  and,  finally,  along  this  line  to  the  point  of  begin- 
ning. It  lies  between  32°  and  42°  north  latitude  ;  and 
its  extrem.es  of  longitude,  owing  to  its  angular  position, 


300       THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

embrace  an  extent  of  about  10°,  —  its  eastern  point 
being  at  114°  30',  and  the  western  at  124°  30', 
although  the  average  distance  of  the  eastern  boundary 
from  the  sea  coast,  and,  consequently,  the  average 
breadth  of  the  state,  isjbut  212  miles.  Its  length  from 
north  to  south  is  764  miles ;  estimated  area,  188,500 
square  miles.  It  is  bounded  north  by  the  territory  of 
Oregon,  east  by  that  of  Utah,  south  by  Lower  Califor- 
nia, and  west  by  the  Pacific  Ocean. 


RIVERS. 

The  waters  of  California  partake  of  those  varied 
peculiarities  which  mark  its  terrene  surface  and  its 
atmospheric  properties.  The  sea  and  its  numerous 
contiguous  bays  and  estuaries,  the  inland  lakes,  the 
rivers  and  their  countless  tributaries,  are  all  subjects  of 
speculative  interest.  They  yield  abundantly  almost 
every  description  of  fish  found  in  like  latitudes,  besides 
many  kinds  which  are  either  unknown  or  not  common 
in  other  regions.  Some  of  the  rivers  are  navigable 
many  miles  from  their  mouths  ;  others  flow  over  preci- 
pices and  ledges,  constituting  falls  or  rapids,  which  the 
industry  of  man  may  hereafter  convert  into  valuable 
mill  sites.  The  sea  shores  are  prolific  in  marine  plants, 
which,  at  some  future  day,  will  doubtless  be  applied  to 
useful  purposes.  Immense  quantities  of  kelp  are  thrown 
up  by  the  waves  —  an  article  that  now  forms  the  most 
available  material  for  the  manufacture  of  iodine,  and 
is  also  excellent  as  a  compost  for  arid  soils,  like  those 


THE    GREAT  WEST.  301 

of  this  state.  Lichens,  in  all  their  variety,  spring  pro- 
fusely from  the  rocky  strand  along  its  entire  extent, 
which,  like  the  mosses  of  Iceland,  and  the  carrageen  of 
Ireland,  will  undoubtedly,  in  due  time,  be  much  prized 
for  their  nutritive  and  medicinal  properties.  The  coasts 
and  inland  watercourses  swarm  with  wild  fowl,  some  of 
which  resemble  the  aquatic  birds  found  on  the  eastern 
shores  of  the  continent,  and  others  seem  peculiar  to  the 
tracts  which  they  inhabit.  The  principal  rivers,  com- 
municating with  the  Pacific,  are  the  Sacramento  and 
San  Joaquin.  These  flow  through  almost  the  whole 
length  of  the  great  valley  between  the  Sierra  Nevada 
and  the  coast  range  of  mountains,  the  former  taking  its 
rise  in  the  north  and  the  latter  in  the  south,  and  both, 
uniting  near  the  centre  of  the  state,  pass'into  the  noble 
Bay  of  San  Francisco,  whence  they  reach  the  sea.  They 
are  fed  in  their  course  by  great  numbers  of  mountain 
streams  from  the  western  slopes  of  the  Sierra  Nevada. 
Other  important  rivers,  though  of  less  considerable  ex- 
tent, intersect  the  state  in  various  directions. 

CLIMATE. 

There  is  nearly,  if  not  quite,  as  great  a  diversity  of 
climate  in  California  as  of  its  geological  features.  The 
coast  and  its  neighborhood  are  enveloped  in  cold  mists, 
borne  on  the  north-west  winds,  which  prevail  during 
most  of  the  summer  or  dry  season,  with  occasional  inter- 
vals of  more  pleasant  weather.  At  San  Francisco, 
although  "the  temperature  frequently  varies  some  308 
26 


302       THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

in  a  single  day,  it  is  said  that  the  mean  temperature,  in 
both  winter  and  summer,  is  nearly  equal.  Other  posi- 
tions on  the  coast  are  more  or  less  affected  by  the  chilly 
winds  and  fogs  from  the  point  above  indicated,  in  pro- 
portion to  their  relative  geographical  situations,  the  line 
of  coast  at  the  southern  part  of  the  state  being  less 
directly  influenced  by  those  causes  than  that  at  the 
northern.  In  the  winter  or  rainy  season  the  prevailing 
winds  are  from  the  south-west,  rendering  the  tempera- 
ture much  milder  than  in  the  same  latitudes  on  the 
Atlantic  side  of  the  continent.  Farther  inland,  beyond 
the  first  range  of  mountains,  the  climate  assumes  a  very 
different  phase.  The  sea  winds  of  the  spring,  summer, 
and  early  autumn  having  deposited  their  freight  of 
moisture  upon  the  summits  of  the  intercepting  high- 
lands, (the  "  Cordilleras  of  California,")  pass  gently 
into  the  *  great  valley  of  the  Sacramento,  carrying  a 
grateful  softness,  with  scarcely  a  remaining  vapor  to 
obscure  the  brightness  of  the  skies.  Proceeding  still 
onward  in  an  easterly  direction,  these  prevailing  winds 
climb  the  flanks  of  the  lofty  Sierra  Nevada,  and,  on 
reaching  its  elevated  peaks,  are  deprived  by  condensa- 
tion of  all  watery  particles  that  may  yet  linger  among 
them.  Thence  they  pass  down  into  the  broad  basin, 
spreading  eastward  to  an  immense  extent,  with  occa- 
sional mountainous  interruptions.  Here  another  change 
of  climate  is  perceptible  ;  the  air  is  exceedingly  dry  and 
hot  throughout  more  than  half  the  year,  and  the  earth 
suffers  accordingly.  These  variations  occur  sometimes 
within  the  distance  of  a  few  miles,  corresponding  gen- 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  303 

orally  with  the  abrupt  changes  observable  upon  the  face 
of  the  country.  A  most  delightful  climate  pervades  the 
numerous  valleys  on  the  land  side  of  the  mountains, 
where  they  are  protected  from  the  rude  ocean  blasts. 
Near  the  western  border  of  the  Sacramento  valley,  the 
extremes  of  temperature,  between  winter  and  summer, 
are  very  great,  comprehending  some  80°  Fahrenheit, 
viz.,  from  30°  to  110°.  A  degree  of  heat  almost  as  ex- 
cessive as  the  last  indicated  is  often  felt  in  various  parts 
of  the  mountain  region ;  but  this  is  here  so  peculiarly 
modified  as  to  produce  none  of  those  injurious  effects 
upon  animal  life  which  result  from  similar  temperatures 
elsewhere.  The  rainy  season,  sometimes  termed  the 
winter,  commences  at  the  north  in  October  or  Novem- 
ber, and  progresses  slowly  to  the  south,  reaching  the 
centre  of  the  state  in  December,  and  the  southern 
boundary  in  January.  The  season  has  an  average 
duration  of  about  three  months,  but  is  longer  and  more 
pluvious  at  the  north  than  at  the  south.  The  effect  of 
all  these  atmospheric  mutations  upon  human  health 
must  naturally  be  diverse,  and  not  always  congenial. 
The  subject,  however,  has  not  yet  been  sufficiently  in- 
vestigated and  analyzed  to  enable  one  to  treat  with 
accuracy  upon  the  relations  between  those  phenomena 
and  the  diseases  incident  to  the  localities  where  they 
•respectively  exist.  That  great  scourge  of  modern  times, 
the  cholera,  has  visited  some  of  the  most  populous  set- 
tlements in  the  state  ;  and  other  epidemics  occur  at 
different  seasons,  similar  in  character  to  those  which 
visit  other  parts  of  the  world  exposed  to  like  vicissitudes 
and  agencies. 


804        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

I 
SUKFACE  AXD  SOIL. 

The  face  of  the  country  presents,  perhaps,  a  greater 
variety  of  topographical  features  than  may  be  found  in 
any  one  territory  of  like  magnitude  upon  the  whole 
earth.  Several  ranges  of  huge  and  lofty  mountains  — 
inany  of  their  peaks  of  volcanic  origin,  ascending  into 
the  region  of  perpetual  snow  —  extend  through  the 
central  parts,  and  parallel  with  the  sea  coast  of  the  state, 
from  its  northern  nearly  to  its  southern  extremity.  On 
the  coast  side  of  these  ridges,  as  well  as  between  them, 
the  surface  is  greatly  diversified,  presenting  many 
varieties  of  soil,  thin  and  sandy  in  some  localities,  but 
in  others  abounding  in  the  richest  loam.  Among  the 
hilly  regions,  there  are  numerous  valleys  and  plateaus, 
of  different  elevations,  covered  with  a  soil  of  good  quality, 
which,  wherever  duly  watered,  is  capable  of  being 
rendered  highly  productive.  But  these  are  frequently 
interspersed  with  large  tracts  of.  rough,  broken,  and 
apparently  sterile  territory,  or  intersected  by  deep  and 
rocky  ravines.  Until  within  a  very  short  period,  the 
entire  country,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  widely  sepa- 
rated spots,  exhibited  all  the  harsh  and  rugged  character- 
istics of  a  yet  unredeemed  wilderness. 

The  elevated  lands,  at  certain  seasons,  are  usually 
either  denuded  of  vegetation,  or  partially  overspread 
with  stunted  trees  and  herbage.  But  in  places  that  are 
sheltered,  and  having  facilities  for  irrigation,  fruits  and 
garden  vegetables  grow  luxuriantly.  Though  few  agri- 
cultural experiments  on  a  large  scale  have  yet  been 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  305 

made,  enough  has  been  ascertained  to  show  that  the 
resources  of  the  state,  in  this  respect,  may  be  advan- 
tageously developed.  Indeed,  it  is  known  that  most  of 
the  cereal  grains  can  be  produced  in  quantities  abun- 
dantly adequate  to  the  wants  of  a  numerous  population. 
In  most  parts  of  the  country  the  vine,  fig,  olive,  and 
other  valuable  plants,  both  of  the  temperate  and  torrid 
zones,  may  be  cultivated  with  great  success.  Springs 
of  water  abound  in  many  districts,  while  in  others  the 
earth,  for  leagues  together,  exposes  a  naked  and  arid 
surface,  which  is  only  relieved  by  the  periodical  rains. 
Some  few  extensive  forests,  comprising,  occasionally, 
trees  of  enormous  magnitude,  were  met  with  by  recent 
United  States  exploring  parties ;  but  large  portions  of 
the  territory  are  very  scantily  wooded.  This  absence  of 
trees,  and  the  consequent  want  of  moisture  and  of  shel- 
ter to  the  earth  from  the  sun's  heat,  is  doubtless  a  grand 
obstacle  in  the  way  of  agricultural  improvement ;  and 
years  will  probably  elapse  before  any  great  measure  of 
public  attention  will  be  directed  to  the  subject.  Among 
the  forest  trees  most  common  in  California  are  the  oak, 
ash,  beech,  birch,  elm,  plane,  red  cedar,  and  pine  of 
almost  every  description.*  These  abound  more  pro- 
fusely near  the  Pacific  shore,  and  in  the  vicinity  of 

*  Timber  is  scattered  over  several  counties,  and  is  quite  abundant 
around  Bodaga,  San  Rafael,  Sonoma,  Santa  Cruz,  and  a  few  other  lo- 
calities. The  red  wood,  or  soft  cedar,  is  most  frequently  met  with  in 
those  quarters.  It  often  grows  to  the  circumference  of  forty  feet,  and  to  a 
height  of  three  hundred.  Near  Santa  Cruz  there  is  one  measuring  seven- 
teen feet  in  diameter. 

26* 


306       THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

rivers  communicating  with  that  ocean,  thus  affording 
excellent  opportunities  for  ship-building. 

AGRICULTURE. 

Although  very  little  information  is  prevalent  in  the 
Atlantic  States  relative  to  the  farming  resources  of  this 
El  Dorado,  we  shall  show,  by  statistics  and  facts,  that  it 
is  not  excelled  in  this  particular  by  any  other  member 
of  the  confederacy,  and  that  agricultural  pursuits  are 
almost  as  lucrative,  and  attended  with  far  more  certainty 
of  success,  than  mining  for  the  "  glittering  ore." 

There  were  in  this  state  in  1850,  .62,324  acres  of  im- 
proved land,  and  3,831,571  acres  of  unimproved  land, 
in  farms.  Cash  value,  13,874,041. 

In  1855  the  number  of  acres  of  land  improved  was 
400,000,  and  10,000,000  acres  of  unimproved  land,  in 
farms.  Cash  value  of  farms,  815,000,000.  Value  of 
live  stock,  $8,000,000. 

The  wheat  crop  of  1855  was  300,000  bushels ;  Indian 
corn,  96,000 ;  oats,  200,000  bushels ;  barley,  3,972,000  ; 
peas  and  beans,  16,000  ;  potatoes,  1,000,000  ;  sweet 
potatoes,  59,000. 

Value  of  products  of  the  orchard,  1100,000;  value  of 
products  of  the  market  gardens,  8225,000. 

GOVERNMENT. 

The  chief  magistrate  is  elected  for  two  years  ;  also 
the  lieutenant  governor,  who  is  ex  officio  president  of 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  307 

the  Senate.  The  legislature  is  composed  of  two  branches 
— the  Senate,  consisting  of  not  less  than  one  third,  nor 
more  than  one  half  of  the  number  contained  in  the 
other  house,  elected  by  districts  biennially ;  and  the 
Assembly,  chosen  annually,  also  by  districts,  to  comprise 
not  less  than  twenty-four  nor  more  than  thirty-six  mem- 
bers, until  the  population  shall  amount  to  100,000,  when 
the  minimum  shall  be  thirty  and  the  maximum  eighty. 
The  legislature  convenes  annually  in  January.  No  lot- 
teries can  be  granted,  nor  charters  for  banking  pur- 
poses. The  circulation  of  paper  as  money  is  prohibited. 
Corporations  may  be  formed  under  general  laws  only. 
In  legislative  elections  the  members  vote  viva  voce. 
Loans  of  the  state  credit  are  interdicted,  and  state  debts 
exceeding  a  sum  total  of  $300,000  cannot  be  contracted 
except  in  certain  specified  contingencies.  The  property 
of  married  women  acquired  before  or  after  marriage, 
and  a  portion  of  the  homesteads,  or  other  estates  of 
heads  of  families,  are  protected  by  law.  The  elective 
franchise  is  held  by  all  white  males  21  years  of  age, 
who  are  citizens  of  the  United  States,  or  Mexicans 
choosing  to  become  citizens,  under  the  treaty  of  Quere- 
taro,  and  have  resided  six  months  within  the  state. 
Indians  and  their  descendants  are  allowed  to  vote  in 
special  cases. 

EDUCATION. 

The  constitution  provides  for  the  establishment  and 
support  of  a  system  of  free  schools,  in  which  instruction 
shall  be  given  at  least  three  months  in  each  year.  A 


308        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

fund  is  to  be  created  from  various  sources,  the  interest 
of  which  is  to  be  inviolably  applied  to  the  maintenance 
of  these  institutions.  This  fund  must  soon  become  one 
of  great  magnitude,  for  it  is  to  consist  of  the  proceeds 
of  public  lands  ceded  to  the  state  for  school  purposes, 
and  of  the  500,000  acres  of  land  granted  to  each  new 
state  by  the  general  government,  together  with  such 
percentage  on  sales  of  lands  within  the  state  as  shall  be 
.allowed  by  Congress,  and  the  avails  of  all  estates  left  by 
persons  dying  without  heirs.  Certain  lands  are  also  set 
apart,  the  income  of  which  is  to  be  appropriated  to  the 
maintenance  of  a  university. 

POPULATION. 

So  rapidly  has  the  population  of  California  accumu- 
lated since  the  first  discovery  of  a  gold  "  placer,"  in 
February,  1848,  and  so  constantly  does  the  stream  of 
immigration  flow  on  and  expand,  that  the  ratio  of  in- 
crease, at  definite  periods,  cannot  be  ascertained  with 
any  great  degree  of  accuracy.  A  comparison  of  the 
number  of  residents  in  certain  localities,  at  the  time  of 
the  occupation  of  Monterey  by  the  United  States  forces, 
(July,  1846,)  with  the  estimated  number  in  January, 
1.851,  —  a  space  of  four  and  a  half  years,  —  may  give 
some  idea  of  the  force  and  velocity  of  that  great  "  tide 
in  the  affairs  of  men,"  which  is  setting  towards  this  point 
from  all  quarters  of  the  world.  At  the  former  date 
there  were  but  eight  towns,  or  pueblos,  within  the  pres- 
ent confines  of  the  state,  viz.,  San  Diego,  with  500  in- 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  309 

habitants ;  Pueblo  de  los  Angelos,  2500  ;  Santa  Barbara, 
800  ;  Monterey,  1200  ;  Santa  Cruz,  400 ;  Pueblo  de  San 
Jose,  1000 ;  Yerba  Buena,  (now  San  Francisco,)  400 ; 
Sonoma,  200  ;  making  a  total  of  7000.  The  rest  of  the 
territory  contained  some  7000  or  8000  besides.  At  the 
latter  date  it  was  estimated  that  the  residents  in  Cali- 
fornia, permanent  and  temporary,  numbered  not  far 
from  200,000,  one  third  of  whom  are  engaged  in  min- 
ing.* There  are  towns  which,  at  the  close  of  their  first 
year's  existence,  contained  from  1200  to  1500  voters. 
In  October,  1850,  the  monthly  mail  from  the  United 
States  conveyed  nearly  50,000  letters  to  California ;  and 
there  were  22,000  advertised  letters  in  the  post  office  of 
Sacramento  City,  then  a  place  of  less  than  three  years' 
growth.  According  to  the  census  of  1850,  the  resident 
population  was  92,569. 

No  member  of  the  American  confederacy  —  perhaps 
we  might  safely  say,  no  portion  of  the  earth  —  has  so 
mixed  a  population  as  California,  adventurers  being 
found  from  almost  every  quarter  of  the  globe  ;  even  the 
exclusive  empire  of  China  has  here  its  representatives 

*  The  following  estimate,  made  in  April,  1851,  is  from  a  public  journal 
printed  at  Sacramento  :  In  the  northern  mines,  or  that  scope  of  country 
lying  north  of  San  Francisco  and  Feather  River,  the  population  is  com- 
puted at  20,000 ;  the  Yuba,  40,000  ;  Bear  River,  4000  ;  the  American 
Fork,  50,000 ;  in  the  southern  mines,  or  that  portion  lying  south  of  the 
American  River,  80,000  ;  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin  valleys  and  neigh- 
borhood, 65,000  ;  the  coast  south  of  San  Francisco,  20,000  ;  —  making 
an  aggregate  of  314,000.  It  is  further  estimated  that  the  100,000 
miners  have  each  labored  300  days  during  the  preceding  year,  and 
have  produced  an  average  of  3J  dollars  per  diem,  •which  gives  a  total 
of  $100,000,000. 


310        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

by  tens  of  thousands,  whose  patient  industry  makes 
them  useful  inhabitants.  The  Indians  also  form  a  large 
portion  of  the  population.  According  to  a  state  census, 
taken  towards  the  close  of  1852,  the  population  of 
California  was  264,435  inhabitants,  (one  county,  El 
Dorado,  being  estimated,)  of  whom  151,115  were  white 
males,  29,741  do.  females ;  1637  male  negroes,  253  fe- 
male do. ;  424  male  mulattoes,  98  female  do. ;  19,675 
male  domesticated  Indians,  12,864  female  do. ;  93,344 
were  citizens  of  the  United  States  over  21  years  of  age ; 
50,631  male  foreigners,  and  4360  female  do.  Of  the 
foreigners,  30,444  were  over  21 'years  of  age. 

The  state  census  of  1855  is  not  yet  complete ;  but 
from  the  imperfect  returns  which  we  have  seen,  and  the 
statements  of  the  California  journals,  we  believe  that 
400,000  inhabitants  would  be  a  fair  estimate. 

The  Sacramento  Valley  Railroad  is  nearly  completed 
to  the  terminus  of  first  section,  a  distance  of  22£  miles. 
It  is  the  only  railroad  in  California. 

THE   MINES. 

The  gold  region  of  California  is  between  400  and  500 
miles  long,  and  from  40  to  50  miles  broad,  following  the 
line  of  the  Sierra  Nevada.  Further  discoveries  may, 
and  probably  will,  increase  the  area.  It  embraces  with- 
in its  limits  those  extensive  ranges  of  hills  which  rise 
on  the  eastern  border  of  the  plain  of  the  Sacramento 
and  San  Joaquin,  and,  extending  eastwardly  from  50  to 
60  miles,  they  attain  an  elevation  of  about  4000  feet, 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  311 

and  terminate  at  the  base  of  the  main  ridge  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada.  There  are  numerous  streams  which  have  their 
sources  in  the  springs  of  the  Sierra,  and  receive  the 
water  from  its  melting  snows,  and  that  which  falls  in 
rain  during  the  wet  season.  These  streams  form  rivers, 
which  have  cut  their  channels  through  the  ranges  of 
foot  hills  westwardly  to  the  plain,  and  disembogue  into 
the  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin.  These  rivers  are 
from  10  to  15,  and  probably  some  of  them  20  miles 
apart.  The  principal  formation  or  substratum  in  these 
hills  is  talcose  slate  ;  the  superstratum,  sometimes  pene- 
trating to  a  great  depth,  is  quartz ;  this,  however,  does 
not  cover  the  entire  face  of  the  country,  but  extends  in 
large  bodies  in  various  directions  —  is  found  in  masses 
and  small  fragments  on  the  surface,  and  seen  along  the 
ravines  and  in  the  mountains  overhanging  the  rivers, 
and  in  the  hill  sides  in  its  original  beds.  It  crops  out 
in  the  valleys  and  on  the  tops  of  the  hills,  and  forms  a 
striking  feature  of  the  entire  country  over  which  it  ex- 
tends. From  innumerable  evidences  and  indications  it 
has  come  to  be  the  universally  admitted  opinion  among  the 
miners  and  intelligent  men  who  have  examined  this  re- 
gion, that  the  gold,  whether  in  detached  particles  and 
pieces  or  in  veins,  was  created  in  combination  with  the 
quartz.  Gold  is  not  found  on  the  surface  of  the  country, 
presenting  the  appearance  of  having  been  thrown  up 
and  scattered  in  all  directions  by  volcanic  action.  It  is 
only  found  in  particular  localities,  and  attended  by  pe- 
culiar circumstances  and  indications.  It  is  found  in 
the  bars  and  shoals  of  the  rivers,  in  ravines,  and  in  what 
are  called  the  "  dry  diggings."  The  rivers,  in  forming 


312        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

their  channels,  or  breaking  their  way  through  the  hills, 
Jiave  come  in  contact  with  the  quartz  containing  the  gold 
veins,  and  by  constant  attrition  cut  the  gold  into  fine 
flakes  and  dust;  and  it  is  found  among  the  sand 
and  gravel  of  their  beds  at  those  places  where  the 
swiftness  of  the  current  reduces  it,  in  the  dry  season, 
to  the  narrowest  possible  limits,  and  where  a  wide 
margin  is  consequently  left  on  each  side,  over  which  the 
water  rushes,  during  the  wet  season,  with  great  force. 
As  the  velocity  of  some  streams  is  greater  than  that  of 
•others,  so  is  the  gold  found  in  fine  or  coarse  particles, 
apparently  corresponding  to  the  degree  of  attrition  to 
which  it  has  been  exposed.  The  water  from  the  hills 
and  upper  valleys,  in  finding  its  way  to  the  rivers,  has 
,cut  deep  ravines,  and,  wherever  it  has  come  in  contact 
with  the  quartz,  has  dissolved  or  crumbled  it  in  pieces. 
In  the  dry  season  these  channels  are  mostly  without 
water,  and  gold  is  found  in  the  beds  and  margins  of 
many  of  them  in  large  quantities,  but  in  a  much  coarser 
state  than  in  the  rivers,  owing,  undoubtedly,  to  the 
moderate  flow  and  temporary  continuance  of  the  cur- 
rent, which  has  reduced  it  to  smooth  shapes,  not  unlike 
pebbles,  but  has  not  had  sufficient  force  to  cut  it  into 
flakes  or  dust.  The  dry  diggings  are  places  where 
quartz  containing  gold  has  cropped  out,  and  been  dis- 
integrated, crumbled  to  fragments,  pebbles,  and  dust, 
by  the  action  of  water  and  the  atmosphere.  The  gold 
has  been  left  as  it  was  made,  in  all  imaginable  shapes  — 
in  pieces  of  all  sizes,  from  one  grain  to  several  pounds 
in  weight.  The  evidences  that  it  was  created  in  com- 


THE    GREAT    WEST.  313 

bination  with  quartz,  are  too  numerous  and 'striking  to 
admit  of  doubt  or  cavil ;  they  are  found  in  combination 
in  large  quantities. 

A  very  large  proportion  of  the  pieces  of  gold  found  in 
these  situations  have  more  or  less  quartz  adhering  to 
them.  In  many  specimens  they  are  so  combined  that 
they  cannot  be  separated  without  reducing  the  whole 
mass  to  powder,  and  subjecting  it  to  the  action  of  quick- 
silver. This  gold,  not  having  been  exposed  to  the  at- 
trition of  a  strong  current  of  water,  retains  in  a  great 
degree  its  original  conformation.  These  diggings,  in 
some  places,  spread  over  valleys  of  considerable  extent, 
which  have  the  appearance  of  an  alluvion  formed  by 
washings  from  the  adjoining  hills,  of  decomposed 
quartz,  and  slate  earth,  and  vegetable  matter.  In  ad- 
dition to  these  facts,  it  is  beyond  doubt  true  that  several 
vein-mines  have  been  discovered  in  the  quartz,  from 
which  numerous  specimens  have  been  taken,  showing 
the  minute  connection  between  the  gold  and  the  rock, 
and  -indicating  a  value  hitherto  unknown  in  gold 
mining.  These  veins  do  not  present  the  appearan6e 
of  places  where  gold  may  liave  been  lodged  by  some 
violent  eruption.  It  is  combined  with  the  quartz  in 
all  imaginable  forms  and  degrees  of  richness.  The 
rivers  present  very  striking,  and  it  would  seem  conclu- 
sive evidence  respecting  the  quantity  of  gold  remaining 
undiscovered  in  the  quartz  veins.  It  is  not  probable 
that  the  gold  in  the  dry  diggings  and  that  in  the  rivers 
—  the  former  in  lumps,  the  latter  in  dust  —  were  created 
by  different  processes.  That  which  is  found  in  the 
27 


314        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

rivers  has  undoubtedly  been  cut  or  worn  from  the  veins 
in  the  rock,  with  which  their  currents  have  come  in 
contact.  All  of  them  appear  to  be  equally  rich.  This 
is  shown  by  the  fact  that  a  laboring  man  may  collect 
nearly  as  much  in  one  river  as  he  can  in  another. 
They  intersect  and  cut  through  the  gold  region,  run- 
ning from  east  to  west,  at  irregular  distances  of  fifteen 
to  twenty,  and  perhaps  some  of  them  thirty  miles  apart. 
Hence  it  appears  that  the  gold  veins  are  equally  rich  in 
all  parts  of  that  most  remarkable  section  of  country. 
Were  it  wanting,  there  are  farther  proofs  of  this  in  the 
ravines  and  dry  diggings,  which  uniformly  confirm  what 
nature  so  plainly  shows  in  the  rivers. 

The  gold  product  of  1855  was  $66,000,000.     The 
total  product  since  the  discovery  of  gold  is  $356,345,000. 


COLONEL  FREMONT'S  EXPLORATIONS. 

To  the  energy,  talent,  and  enterprise  of  the  Hon. 
John  Charles  Fremont  we  stand  indebted  for  the  most 
important  discoveries  and  surveys  of  the  western  terri- 
tory of  the  United  States,  since  the  great  expedition  of 
Lewis  and  Clarke.  The  first  field  of  his  public  services 
was  the  country  around  the  head  waters  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, in  the  survey  of  which  he  acted  as  an  assistant. 
After  receiving  the  commission  of  a  lieutenant  in  the 
corps  of  topographical  engineers,  he  undertook  an 
expedition,  in  1842,  under  the  instructions  of  govern- 
ment, to  examine  the  country  between  the  Missouri 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  315 

frontier  and  the   Great  South  Pass,  in  the    Rocky 
Mountains. 

On  the  10th  of  June,  the  party,  consisting  of  twenty- 
five  men,  most  of  whom  were  Canadian  and  Creole 
voyageurs,  set  out  from  a  post  ten  miles  above  the 
mouth  of  the  Kanzas  River.  The  celebrated  Christo- 
pher Carson  (known  as  Kit  Carson)  officiated  as  guide. 
Eight  mule  carts,  loaded  with  instruments  and  baggage, 
with  a  few  spare  horses  and  four  oxen  for  provision, 
were  the  only  encumbrances ;  the  whole  party,  with 
the  exception  of  the  cart  drivers,  were  well  armed  and 
mounted.  After  crossing  the  Kanzas,  the  party  took 
up  their  line  of  march  over  the  prairie  in  a  north-west- 
erly direction  to  the  Platte  River,  which  was  reached 
on  the  26th,  at  a  distance  of  more  than  300  miles  from, 
the  point  of  departure.  They  followed  the  course  of 
the  South  Fork  to  Fort  St.  Yrain,  at  the  foot  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  where  they  arrived  on  the  10th  of 
July.  Many  interesting  descriptions  are  recorded  of 
the  Indians  encountered  on  the  route:  among  other 
incidents,  a  spirited  account  is  given  of  a  buffalo  hunt 
by  a  party  of  Arapahoes,  whose  village,  on  the  Platte, 
was  passed  upon  the  8th.  As  soon  as  they  were  con- 
scious of  danger,  in  the  words  of  the  narrative,  "  the 
buffalo  started  for  the  hills,  but  were  intercepted  and 
driven  back  towards  the  river,  broken  and  running  in 
every  direction.  The  clouds  of  dust  soon  covered  the 
whole  scene,  preventing  us  from  having  any  but  an 
occasional  view.  *  *  *  At  every  instant  through 
the  clouds  of  dust  which  the  sun  made  luminous,  we 


316       THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

could  see  for  a  moment  two  or  three  buffalo  dashing 
along,  and  close  behind  them  an  Indian  with  his  long 
spear,  or  other  weapon,  and  instantly  again  they  dis- 
appeared." 

Fremont  with  his  little  company  reached  the  South 
Pass  about  the  middle  of  August,  and  commenced  a 
scientific  exploration  of  the  rugged  mountain  district 
through  which  it  leads.  "  He  not  only  fixed  the  local- 
ity and  character  of  that  great  pass,  through  which 
myriads  are  now  pressing  to  California,  but  defined  the 
astronomy,  geography,  botany,  geology,  meteorology, 
of  the  country,  and  designated  the  route  since  fol- 
lowed, and  the  points  from  which  the  flag  of  the  Union 
is  now  flying  from  a  chain  of  wilderness  fortresses. 
His  report  was  printed  by  the  Senate,  and  translated 
into  foreign  languages,  and  the  scientific  world  looked 
on  Fremont  as  one  of  its  benefactors."  * 

The  expedition  of  1843-£  was  far  more  extensive, 
interesting,  and  important  than  the  one  which  preceded 
it.  Its  object  was  "  to  connect  the  reconnaissance  of 
1842  with  the  surveys  of  Commander  Wilkes  on  the 
coast  of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  so  as  to  give  a  connected 
survey  of  the  interior  of  our  continent."  In  entering 
upon  this  arduous  undertaking,  Colonel  Fremont  de- 
termined to  attempt  a  new  route  over  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, southward  of  the  main  pass,  in  hopes  of  discov- 
ering an  easier  thoroughfare  to  Oregon  and  California. 
On  the  29th  of  May,  with  a  company  of  thirty-nine 

*  Lester,  in  the  "  Gallery  of  Illustrious  Americans." 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  317 

men,  many  of  whom  had  accompanied  him  in  1842, 
he  set  out  from  the  former  point  of  departure.  A 
detour  through  the  mountains  brought  them  upon  the 
waters  of  the  Bear  River,  which  they  followed  to  its 
debouchement  into  the  Great  Salt  Lake.  In  a  frail 
boat  of  inflated  India  rubber  cloth,  a  partial  survey  was 
effected  of  this  remarkable  phenomenon  of  nature, 
concerning  which  the  only  knowledge  before  obtained 
had  been  from  the  wild  reports  of  the  Indians  and 
hunters  who  had  occasionally  visited  it.  Little  did  the 
adventurous  explorers  dream  of  the  change  that  a  few 
years  would  bring  about  upon  those  remote  and  deso- 
late shores.  The  party  left  their  camp  by  the  lake  on 
the  12th  of  September,  and,  proceeding  northward, 
reached  the  plains  of  the  Columbia  on  the  18th,  "  in 
sight  of  the  famous  <  Three  Buttes,'  a  well-known  land- 
mark in  the  country,  distant  about  forty-five  miles." 

In  the  month  of  November,  having  reached  Fort 
Vancouver,  and  fully  accomplished  the  duties  assigned 
him,  Colonel  Fremont  set  out  on  his  return  by  a  new  and 
dangerous  route.  Nothing  but  a  perusal  of  the  journal 
of  the  expedition  can  convey  an  adequate  idea  of  the 
dangers  and  difficulties  attendant  upon  the  remainder 
of  this  enterprise,  in  which  the  complete  circuit  was 
made  of  that  immense  and  unexplored  basin  lying  be- 
tween the  Sierra  Nevada  and  the  Wahsatch  or  Bear 
Eiver  range  of  the  Rocky  Mountains ;  a  region  thus 
laid  down  in  Fremont's  chart :  "  The  Great  Basin : 
diameter  11°  of  latitude :  elevation  above  the  sea,  be- 
tween 4  and  5000  feet :  surrounded  by  lofty  mountains : 
27* 


318        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WOULD,  OB 

contents  almost  unknown,  but  believed  to  be  filled  with 
rivers  and  lakes  which  have  no  communication  with  the 
sea,  deserts  and  oases  which  have  never  been  explored, 
and  savage  tribes  which  no  traveller  has  seen  or  de- 
scribed.'' 

The  following  synopsis  of  the  narrative  of  Fremont's 
return  from  the  Pacific  to  the  States  is  from  the  pen 
of  the  popular  author  before  cited.  "  It  was  the  begin- 
ning of  winter.  Without  resources,  adequate  supplies, 
or  even  a  guide,  and  with  only  twenty-five  companions, 
he  turned  his  face  once  more  towards  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  Then  began  that  wonderful  expedition, 
filled  with  romance,  achievement,  daring,  and  suffer- 
ing, in  which  he  was  lost  from  the  world  nine  months, 
traversing  8500  miles  in  sight  of  eternal  snows ;  in 
which  he  explored  and  revealed,  the  grand  features  of 
Alta  California,  its  great  basin,  the  Sierra  Nevada,  the 
valleys  of  San  Joaquin  and  Sacramento,  exploded  the 
fabulous  Bienaventura,  revealed  the  real  El  Dorado, 
and  established  the  geography  of  the  western  part  of 
this  continent." 

The  account  of  the  terrible  passage  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada  in  the  months  of  February  and  March,  is  one 
of  the  most  thrilling  narratives  ever  recorded  of  the 
triumph  of  heroic  endurance  over  every  conceivable 
difficulty.  The  ascent  was  commenced  on  the  2d  of 
February ;  the  Indian  guide  "  shook  his  head  as  he 
pointed  to  the  icy  pinnacles,  shooting  high  up  into  the 
sky,"  and  opposing  an  apparently  insuperable  barrier 
to  further  progress.  After  weeks  of  toil  and  suffering, 


THE  GREAT  WEST.        .  319 

subsisting  upon  their  mules  and  horses,  for  whom  it 
was  almost  impossible  to  procure  sufficient  grass  and 
herbage  to  support  life,  the  party  descended  the  western 
slope  of  the  Sierra.  Two  of  the  men  had  lost  their  rea- 
son from  suffering  and  anxiety  :  one  of  them,  Derosier, 
who  had  staid  behind  for  the  purpose  of  bringing  up 
a  favorite  horse  of  Colonel  Fremont,  on  rejoining  the 
party,  in  the  words  of  the  narrative,  "came  in,  and 
sitting  down  by  the  fire,  began  to  tell  us  where  he  had 
been.  He  imagined  he  had  been  gone  several  days, 
and  thought  we  were  still  at  the  camp  where  he  had 
left  us  ;  and  we  were  pained  to  see  that  his  mind  was 
deranged.  *  *  *  The  times  were  severe  when  stout 
men  lost  their  minds  from  extremity  of  suffering  — 
when  horses  died" —  and  when  mules  and  horses,  ready 
to  die  of  starvation,  were  killed  for  food.  Yet  there 
was  no  murmuring  or  hesitation." 

"  In  August,  1844,  Colonel  Fremont  was  again  in 
Washington,  after  an  absence  of  sixteen  months.  His 
report  put  the  seal  to  the  fame  of  the  young  explorer. 
He  was  planning  a  third  expedition  while  writing  a 
history  of  the  second ;  and  before  its  publication,  in 
1845,  he  was  again  on  his  way  to  the  Pacific,  collecting 
his  mountain  comrades,  to  examine  in  detail  the  Asiatic 
slope  of  the  North  American  continent,  which  resulted 
in  giving  a  volume  of  new  science  to  the  world,  and 
California  to  the  United  States."  * 

The  events  immediately  succeeding,  although  highly 

*  Gallery  of  Illustrious  Americans. 


320        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

interesting,  as  connected  with  the  most  important  par- 
ticulars in  the  political  history  of  the  United  States, 
are  beyond  our  limits  to  record.  It  is  sufficient  to 
state,  that  throughout  the  difficulties  in  which  Colonel 
Fremont  was  involved,  and  the  lengthened  examination 
to  which  he  was  subjected  before  a  court-martial,  the 
sympathies  of  the  public  were  generally  enlisted  in  his 
behalf. 

As  a  private  citizen,  he  contemplated  yet  another 
survey  of  a  southern  route  through  the  western  terri- 
tory to  California,  and  we  cannot  sufficiently  admire 
the  ardor  and  self-reliance  with  which  he  entered  upon 
the  undertaking,  after  such  fearful  experience  of  the 
dangers  attendant  on  attempting  an  unknown  passage 
of  the  great  mountain  ranges  which* must  be  crossed. 
To  resume  the  remarks  of  Mr.  Lester  :  "  Again  he  ap- 
peared on  the  far  west :  his  old  mountaineers  flocked 
around  him  ;  and,  with  thirty-three  men  and  one  hun- 
dred and  thirty  mules,  perfectly  equipped,  he  started 
for  the  Pacific. 

"  On  the  Sierra  San  Juan  all  his  mules  and  a  third 
of  his  men  perished  in  a  more  than  Russian  cold  ;  and 
Fremont  arrived  on  foot  at  Santa  Fe,  stripped  of  every 
thing  but  life.  It  was  a  moment  for  the  last  pang  of 
despair  which  breaks  the  heart,  or  the  moral  heroism 
which  conquers  fate  itself. 

"  The  men  of  the  wilderness  knew  Fremont ;  they 
refitted  his  expedition;  he  started  again,  pierced  the 
country  of  the  fierce  and  remorseless  Apaches  ;  met, 
awed,  or  defeated  savage  tribes  ;  and  in  a  hundred 


THE   GREAT  WEST.  321 

days  from  Santa  Fe  he  stood  on  the  glittering  banks  of 
the  Sacramento."  In  the  new  state  where  he  took  up 
his  abode,  his  popularity  and  prosperity  have  been  un- 
surpassed. 

THE  YANKEES  IN  CALIFORNIA. 

At  the  late  forefathers'  celebration  at  San  Francisco, 
George  C.  Bates,  Esq.,  who  responded  to  the  toast  of 
"  The  Mayflower,"  said,  in  substance,  that  although  he 
was  not  born  in  New  England,  his  ancestors  came  from 
there ;  and  after  a  few  general  remarks  on  the  history 
of  New  England  and  the  character  of  her  people,  he 
went  on  in  the  following  eloquent  strain  :  — 

"  What  would  Standish,  and  Brewster,  and  Carver, 
and  Bartlett,  who  landed  over  two  centuries  since,  say, 
could  they  join  us  to-night  in  this  jubilee  —  could  they 
reunite  with  us  on  Russian  Hill,  along  the  North  Beach, 
and  then  around  Front  Street  to  Rincon  Point,  and 
over  Mission  Creek  ?  If  they  can  look  down  from  their 
New  England  heaven  (the  heaven  of  the  Pilgrims) 
upon  this,  wondrous  city,  rising  more  like  magic  than 
even  those  created  by  Aladdin's  lamp,  what  would 
they  behold  ?  A  paradox,  that  would  puzzle  Yankee 
ingenuity  to  understand  ;  an  antithesis,  that  the  guess- 
ing propensities  of  a  Connecticut  pedler  could  not 
elucidate.  Let  us  see  what  they  would  say. 

"  Looking  from  Russian  Hill  —  a  spot  rendered  fear- 
ful by  the  execution  of  the  one  murderer  out  of  hun- 
dreds who  have  deserved  death  within  the  limits  of  our 


322        THE  GAEDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

city,  who  there  paid  the  fearful  penalty  of  blood  for 
blood  — -_,let  us  look  into  yonder  bay.  The  moon  illu- 
minates the  scene ;  the  city  lies  beneath  us,  and  its  base 
is  washed  by  the  waters  that  ebb  and  flow  within  the 
Golden  Gate. 

"  First.  Let  us  look  at  yonder  ships.  Their  taper- 
ing masts,  their  sharp  bows,  their  breadth  of  beam, 
their  flying  voyages,  sometimes  making  even  a  speed 
outvying  the  paddle  wheels  of  the  Golden  Gate.  The 
Golden  Age,  the  Stephens,  the  Sonora,  whence  did 
they  come  ?  Whose  are  they  ?  Where  did  the  tim- 
bers grow?  Where  were  the  bolts  forged  that  bind 
their  oak  ribs  together  ?  Whose  muscle,  and  arms,  and 
labor  riveted  their  sides,  that,  thus  defying  the  storms 
and  the  tempests  of  the  ocean,  they  now  ride  quietly  at 
anchor  in  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  ? 

"  The  answer  to  our  guests  —  the  spirits  of  those 
who  came  over  in  the  Mayflower  —  would  be, '  To  New 
England  belong  those  clippers  which  cleave  the  ocean 
wave  with  the  lightning  speed  of  the  eagle's  wing. 
Look  under  their  stern ;  see  their  baptismal  names  and 
place  of  birth.  All  are  of  New  England  or  New  York, 
and  of  New  England  parentage.  Baltimore,  Norfolk, 
Charleston,  Pensacola,  Mobile,  New  Orleans,  Galveston, 
own  none.  Without  being  invidious  towards  our  fellow- 
citizens  of  other  states  than  those  of  New  England,  I 
would  remark  as  a  fact  —  a  fact  to  be  remembered 
and  pondered  upon  —  that  aside  from  the  foreign  ships 
now  or  heretofore  in  this  port,  more  than  nine  tenths 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  323 

were  built,  launched,  owned,  and  manned  by  New 
Englanders. 

."  Second.  Again  descending  from  the  decks  of  those 
gallant  clippers,  we  shall  show  our  spiritual  guests 
along  our  business  streets  —  Front,  Battery,  Sansome, 
Montgomery.  Behold  there  New  England  enterprise, 
the  Macondrays,  the  Flints,  the  Husseys,  the  Hales, 
and  their  compeers.  Enter  all  these  mammoth  ware- 
houses, filled  with  the  products  of  every  clime  on  earth. 
There  you  behold  millions  of  capital  invested  in  Yan- 
kee manufactures,  in  Yankee  products,  in  evidence  of 
New  England's  wealth,  of  New  England's  merchants. 
Let  an  earthquake  shake  down  this  night  the  business 
buildings  occupied  by  New  Englanders,  and  save  those 
of  our  foreign  merchants ;  what  would  be  left  ?  The 
celebrated  destruction  of  Catania  would  not  be  more 
complete.  ' 

"  Third.  San  Francisco  is  not  merely  a  commercial 
city,  but  within  its  borders,  in  all  directions,  may  be 
seen  the  first  efforts  of  young  yet  growing  manufac- 
tures. The  ponderous  steam  engine  hammers,  and 
drills,  and  bores,  and  files  ;  the  buzzing  saw  screeches 
and  cuts ;  the  driving  plane  smooths,  and  tongues,  and 
grooves.  Enter  any  one  or  all  these  work  places,  and 
underneath  the  soot  and  dust,  the  steam  and  smoke, 
you  will  find  there  only  New  England  labor.  Yankees 
build,  and  guide,  and  govern  those  ponderous  machines, 
for  they  were  born,  and  reared,  and  taught  where  labor, 
free  and  honest  labor,  was  approved  of  God  and  made 
dignified  among  men.  The  sunny  south,  with  its  balmy 


324        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

skies,  its  enervating  climate,  and  its  own  institutions, 
has  no  representative  in  that  busy  hive  of  industry. 

"  Fourth.  But  we  travel  onward  from  the  deck  of 
the  Yankee  clippers,  through  the  mammoth  warehouses 
of  New  England  merchants,  and  we  shake  off  the  dust, 
and  soot,  and  smoke  of  Yankee  workshops  from  our 
feet,  and  our  hearts  are  warmed,  our  souls  are  elevated, 
as  we  look  upward  to  the  many  (how  many !)  houses 
whose  pointed  spires,  rising  heavenward,  show  that 
they  are  dedicated  to  God.  The  bell  summons  us  to 
enter,  and  we  do  so ;  and  there,  with  suppressed  breath, 
we  listen  to  New  England  sermons,  we  join  in  New 
England  psalms ;  we  look  around  upon  New  England 
wives,  New  England  husbands,  New  England  children. 
Massachusetts,  Connecticut,  Rhode  Island,  Vermont, 
Maine,  and  New  Hampshire  are  all  represented  there. 
If  you  visit,  on  God's  holy  day,  the  race  course,  the 
cock  pit,  the  gambling  saloon,  the  bawdy  house,  the 
plank  road,  you  will  not  find  there  New  England  men 
or  New  England  women,  unless  indeed  they  have  wan- 
dered so  long  from  their  homes,  that  their  early  teach- 
ings have  faded  from  their  hearts,  and  their  memories 
have  grown  dull  and  deaf  to  their  mothers'  prayers. 

"  Fifth.  But  we  leave  the  house  of  God,  and  we 
enter  the  school  houses  of  the  city  ;  and  there  what 
shall  we  show  our  guests,  the  passengers  in  the  old 
Mayflower  ?  If  the  mother  of  the  Gracchi  could  point 
to  her  children  when  her  ornaments  were  demanded, 
and  say, i  These  are  my  jewels,'  so  may  San  Francisco, 
when  jeered  at  for  her  murders,  her  robberies,  her 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  325 

bankrupt  bankers,  her  violated  laws  —  so  may  then 
San  Francisco,  her  head  aloft,  lifting  her  finger  over 
these  dark  clouds,  point  to  her  school  houses  and  their 
living  treasures,  richer  far  than  gold,  and  say, '  Here, 
indeed,  are  my  jewels.'  These  are  New  England  school 
houses,  New  England  scholars,  New  England  teachers. 
I  do  not  mean  to  say  that  there  are  no  other  children 
there  ;  but  this  I  do  say,  that  nine  out  of  ten  of  those 
youngsters  with  rosy  cheeks  and  sparkling  eyes  are  the 
children's  children  of  New  England.  God  bless  them 
all !  As  San  Francisco  is  in  these  respects,  so  is  the 
rest  of  this  El  Dorado  of  the  world. 

"  Such  are  New  England  triumphs  on  the  Pacific. 
Look  we  now  to  the  other  picture  —  of  New  England's 
degradation,  of  New  England's  humiliation  —  and  there 
learn  the  lesson  that  a  New  Yorker,  of  New  England 
parents,  would  to-night  inculcate.  It  was  one  of  the 
fundamental  principles  of  the  Puritans  that  every  man 
should  have  his  whole  share  in  the  duties,  the  honors, 
and  emoluments  of  the  republic,  of  the  state.  How  is 
it  here  ?  What  New  Englander,  from  the  formation 
of  the  state  constitution  to  this  day,  has  ever  been 

esteemed  worthy  of  public  promotion  ?    What  <  d d 

Yankee,'  as  you  are  all  styled  by  the  self-sacrificing, 
public-spirited  gentlemen  from  the  west  and  south  who 
occupy  all  public  places,  has  ever  been  called  to  take 
any  share  in  the  administration  of  the  public  affairs  of 
California  ?  Let  us  see.  I  am  not  a  New  Englander, 
nor  yet  a  Californian.  While  I  love  this  country,  its 
gorgeous  skies,  its  balmy  winters,  its  streams  gushing 
28 


326       THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

forth  gold,  yet  fate  lias  decided  that  my  lot  is  to  be 
elsewhere.  I  speak,  then,  as  a  disinterested  4  looker  on 
here  in  Vienna.' 

"  First.  Let  us  look  at  the  federal  appointments  to 
office.  What  New  England  man  ever  dared  to  aspire 
to  either  ?  None  !  none  !  California  has  had  four  col- 
lectors of  this  port.  No  Yankee  was  ever  permitted  to 
sit  at  the  receipt  of  customs  —  a  place  occupied  by  the 
Pharisees  and  Sadducees  of  old,  and  not  much  im- 
proved by  San  Francisco  collectors,  if  the  records  speak 
the  truth.  Two  estimable  and  worthy  gentlemen  have 
performed  the  respective  duties  of  United  States  mar- 
shal—  the  one  from  Tennessee,  the  other,  a  noble- 
hearted,  generous,  murdered  man,  from  the  District  of 
Columbia.  Two  district  attorneys,  each  eminent  for 
their  learning,  their  ability,  and  their  purity  of  con- 
duct, have  received  appointment,  one  from  Kentucky 
and  one  from  Alabama.  '  Two  honest,  worthy,  and  un- 
spotted judges  fill  the  seats  on  the  federal  bench,  the 
one  a  Knickerbocker  of  New  York,  the  other  a  noble 
specimen  from  Georgia.  Going  from  these  ministerial 
and  judicial  departments  of  the  federal  government  to 
the  legislature,  what  see  you  there  ?  New  Englanders  ? 
California  has  had  six  representatives  in  Congress,  one 
of  whom  alone  was,  out  of  all  the  New  Englanders  in 
California,  elected.  All  others,  save  the  lamented  Gil- 
bert, were  and  are  southern  men.  In  that  august 
assemblage,  the  Senate  of  these  United  States,  who 
ever  saw  the  form  or  face  of  a  New  England  man 
speaking,  acting,  or  advising  as  a  California  senator  ? 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  327 

Nay,  what  New  England  man  now,  in  the  face  of  two 
vacancies  in  that  body,  is  thought  of,  spoken  of,  dreamed 
of,  or  dares  even  to  aspire  thereto  ?  None  !  not  one  ! 

"  Second.  But  turn  we  from  the  federal  officers  to 
that  of  our  domestic  government,  and  see  how  the  ship 
building,  tax  paying,  church  going,  water  drinking  New 
Englanders  fare  there.  California  has  had  two  gov- 
ernors, one  reflected,  a  man,  it  is  believed,  infinitely 
above  his  traducers,  and  neither  of  these  from  New 
England.  The  young  executive,  with  his  blushing 
honors  fresh  upon  him,  traces  his  lineage  through  the 
cornfields  of  Indiana  into  the  tobacco  ground  of  Kenr- 
tucky.  Had  he  been  spotted  as  ever  having  seen  a< 
New  England  manufactory  or  school  house,  he  bad 
never  been  governor. 

"  Third.  But  the  judiciary.  There  are  many,  very 
many,  able  lawyers  in  California,  men  of  honor,  of 
temperance,  of  chastity,  of  purity,  who  were  born  and 
educated  in  New  England.  There  have  been  no  less 
than  nine  Supreme  Court  judges  in  California,  yet  no 
single  one  from  New  England.  While  I  recognize  and 
bear  witness  to  the  exalted  standing,  to  the  unwavering 
integrity,  to  the  perfect  purity  in  private  as  in  public 
life  of  the  distinguished  gentlemen  who  have  graced 
the  bench  of  our  Supreme  Court,  and  while  the  beau- 
tiful symmetry  of  the  common  law  has  been  illustrated 
by  the  luminous  opinions  of  gentlemen  from  New  York, 
Tennessee,  Illinois,  and  Alabama,  yet  it  has  struck  me 
as  a  strange  thing  that  no  New  England  lawyer  was 
ever  called  to  that  responsible  station. 


328        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

"Fourth  and  lastly.  The  legislative  department  — 
let  us  look  at  this.  It  hath  not  happened  to  me,  in  my 
sojourn  in  California  for  almost  four  years,  to  visit  often 
the  legislature  of  the  state  ;  but  it  has  been  my  painful 
duty  to  read  and  endeavor  to  understand  the  laws  en- 
acted by  that  illustrious  body,  and  I  can  easily  divine 
that  few  Yankees  shared  in  the  inglorious  duty  of 
making  laws  which  Blackstone  emphatically  calls 
hotch-potch.  If  murderers  go  unhung,  save  by  mass 
meeting  —  if  bawdy  houses  open  their  horrid  doors  in 
our  most  public  streets  —  if  taxes  are  accumulated  like 
Ossa  on  Pelion  —  if  gaming  continues  to  seduce  its 
foolish  victims  —  thank  God  New  Englanders  are  not 
to  blame  !  Here  and  there  a  straggler  may  be  found 
in  the  legislature ;  but  the  bowie  knife  of  Arkansas 
and  the  derringer  of  Tennessee  will  compel  the  poor 
fellow  to  deny  his  birthright.  Let  a  score  of  straight- 
forward New  England  men  be  sent  for  one  single  win- 
ter to  the  legislature,  and  although  I  cannot  guess,  as 
I  am  no  Yankee,  yet,  as  a  western  man,  I  will  bet  any 
reasonable  sum  that  laws  can  be  made  and  enforced  to 
hang  every  cold-blooded  murderer  —  to  drive  the  taw- 
dry cyprian  'to  her  dark  abiding-place  —  to  close  the 
hell  of  the  gambler  —  to  regenerate  California.  Why 
are  these  things  so  ?  Because  New  Englanders  are  not 
true  to  themselves." 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  329 

COLONEL    FREMONT    AND    HIS    MARIPOSA    GRANT. 

Colonel  Fremont  has  at  length  got  his  great  Mari- 
posa  estate  fully  confirfned  to  him,  and  may  be  regard- 
ed as  one  of  the  richest  men  living.  The  patent  was 
signed  by  the  president,  and  delivered  by  him  at  the 
White  House  to  Colonel  Fremont  in  person.  Patents 
are  now  generally  signed  by  the  private  secretary  of 
the  president,  who  is  thereunto  authorized  by  an  act 
of  Congress  ;  but  General  Pierce  signed  this  one  with 
his  own  hand.  The  instrument  is  engrossed  upon 
parchment,  and  covers  12  sheets,  including,  on  a  large 
sheet  of  parchment,  a  finely  executed  map  of  Las 
Mariposas,  as  surveyed  by  the  United  States  surveyor 
general. 

The  tract  is  upwards  of  70  square  miles  in  extent, 
and  is  situated  about  225  miles  from  San  Francisco 
in  an  easterly  direction.  It  embraces  the  town  of 
Mariposa,  containing  from  3000  to  4000  inhabitants, 
and  a  number  of  other  small  towns  and  settlements ; 
and  it  is  estimated  that  there  are  upwards  of  15,000 
people  now  on  the  estate. 

Colonel  Fremont  bought  this  land  on  the  10th  of 
May,  1846,  of  Alvarado,  ex-governor  of  California,  for 
three  thousand  dollars  in  cash ;  and,  at  the  time,  the 
old  Californians  laughed  at  it  as  a  very  extravagant 
price.  After  a  long  litigation,  his  title  has  been  fully 
confirmed  by  the  Supreme  Court  at  Washington. 

Of  the  value  of  Colonel  Fremont's  grant  it  is  impos- 
sible to  speak  with  defmiteness,  as  it  is,  apparently, 
28* 


330        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

almost  beyond  calculation.  Messrs.  Palmer,  Cook,  & 
Co.,  bankers,  of  San  Francisco,  who  have  advanced 
heavily  to  pay  the  taxes  upon  it,  and  to  defray  the 
enormous  expenses  of  the  sunr,  own  one  undivided 
half  interest  in  the  property.  Colonel  Fremont  alone 
owns  the  other  half. 

Already  about  $35,000,000  worth  of  gold  dust  have 
been  taken  from  the  tract,  and  the  percentage  of  earth 
which  has  yet  been  worked,  even  imperfectly,  is  ex- 
ceedingly small.  This  is  owing  to  the  scanty  supply 
of  water  to  be  found  on  the  tract ;  and  a  canal  is  pro- 
jected, at  a  cost  of  $600,000,  to  -supply  this  deficiency. 
When  this  is  completed,  the  revenue  to  be  derived  from 
the  estate  will  amount  to  many  millions  per  annum. 

SAN    FRANCISCO. 

/ 

Court  house,  San  ^rancisco  county.  The  entrance 
to  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  known  as  the  Golden 
Gate,  is  about  3  miles  wide,  and  is  formed  by  a  gap  or 
opening,  extending  5  or  6  miles  through  the  range  of 
mountains  that  runs  along  the  coast  of  California. 
Table  Hill,  not  far  from  the  northern  shore  of  this 
strait,  is  2500  feet  high.  Opposite  the  entrance,  just 
as  it  opens  into  the  bay,,  are  the  Islands  of  Alcatraz 
and  Yerba  Buena.  30  miles  in  the  distance,  nearly 
due  west,  rises  the  peak  of  Monte  Diablo,  the  highest 
point  of  the  second  or  interior  coast  range,  and  over- 
'  looking  every  thing  between  the  ocean  and  the  Sierra 
Nevada.  It  is  between  these  two  coast  ranges  that  the 


THE    GREAT   WEST.  331 

Bay  of  San  Francisco  spreads  out,  extending  in  a  di- 
rection east  of  south  upwards  of  50  miles,  with  a 
breadth  varying  from  6  or  7  miles,  where  it  turns 
south,  to  near  20  in  the  middle,  and  diminishing  to  2 
or  3  at  the  southern  extremity,  into  which  flows  the 
Guadaloupe  River,  on  which,  and  on  the  shores  of  the 
bay,  is  some  excellent  land.  At  the  north,  the  Bay  of 
San  Francisco  communicates,  by  a  strait  not  unlike 
that  of  the  Golden  Gate,  with  San  Pablo  Bay,  a  basin 
of  near  15  miles  diameter,  into  which  are  discharged, 
through  a  deep  navigable  channel  coming  from  the 
west  and  extending  in  its  course  into  Susan  Bay,  the 
united  waters  of  the  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin,  the 
two  principal  rivers  of  California. 

The  peninsula  between  San  Francisco  Bay  and  the 
ocean  consists  chiefly  of  barren  sand  hills.  The  city 
of  San  Francisco  lies  just  within  the  northern  point  of 
the  entrance  into  the  bay,  upon  a  deep  curve  of  the 
shore,  and  on  the  sides  of  3  hills  of  sand,  which  rise 
steeply  from  the  water,  the  middle  one  receding  so  as 
to  form  a  bold  amphitheatre. 

The  Bay  of  San  Francisco  was  entered  by  Sir  Francis 
Drake  during  his  famous  expedition  to  the  Pacific  in 
1578,  before  any  settlements,  except  those  at  St.  Au- 
gustine, had  been  formed  on  the  Atlantic  coast  of  the 
United  States.  It  was  known  to  the  Spaniards  30  years 
earlier,  but  was  neglected  till  their  occupation  of  Up- 
per California,  which  commenced  in  1769,  not  long 
after  which  San  Francisco  was  taken  possession  of,  and 
was  subsequently  held  by  a  small  garrison,  maintained 


332       THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

in  a  little  fort  just  at  the  entrance  into  the  bay,  a  ham- 
let of  a  few  houses  growing  up  on  the  site  of  the  pres- 
ent city.  At  the  time  of  the  transfer  of  California  to 
the  United  States,  in  1848,  and  even  as  late  as  April, 
1849,  San  Francisco  did  not  contain  more  than  30  or 
40  houses.  But  the  discovery  of  gold  gave  it  a  sudden 
impulse,  and  by  the  1st  of  September,  1849,  there  were 
500  houses,  tents,  and  sheds,  with  a  population,  fixed 
and  floating,  of  5000  or  6000.  Streets  had  been  regu- 
larly laid  out,  and  already  there  were  3  piers  at  which 
small  vessels  could  discharge.  New  buildings,  though 
of  the  most  flimsy  description,  —  the  oldest  and  most 
substantial  of  adobes  or  dried  mud,  the  rest  of  boards 
and  canvas,  —  were  held,  as  well  as  the  city  lots,  at  the 
most  extravagant  prices.  The  Parker  House,  an  ordi- 
nary frame  building,  of  60  feet  front,  used  as  a  hotel, 
rented  for  $110,000  yearly,  and  other  buildings  in  like 
proportion,  or  at  rates  still  more  extravagant.  These 
enormous  rents  led  to  a  rapid  and  immense  increase  of 
buildings,  and,  notwithstanding  the  very  high  prices  of 
building  materials  and  labor,  by  the  beginning  of  1850 
San  Francisco  had  become  a  real  city,  with  some  20,000 
inhabitants,  spacious  and  convenient  buildings,  though 
mostly  of  wood,  including  extensive  hotels  and  ware- 
houses, many  of  the  frames  of  which  had  been  shipped 
round  Cape  Horn,  and  others  from  China.  Speculation 
and  prosperity  went  on  increasing  till  the  city  received 
a  severe  check  by  three  successive  fires,  by  which  a  vast 
extent  of  frame  and  canvas  buildings  were  swept  away, 
and  immense  amounts  of  property  destroyed.  These 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  333 

fires  led,  however,  to  the  erection  of  fire-proof  buildings 
of  brick.  The  city  has  also  received  a  great  extension 
by  the  filling  up  of  shallow  water  lots  by  sand  from 
the  neighboring  hills,  upon  which  many  solid  and  sub- 
stantial buildings  have  been  built ;  and  though  real 
estate  has  greatly  declined  from  its  former  extravagant 
prices,  to  the  ruin  of  many  who  thought  themselves 
worth  millions,  the  city  continues  to  be  improved  by 
the  erection  of  solid  and  substantial  buildings.  Great 
expenses  have  also  been  incurred  by  the  city  corpora- 
tion in  the  improvement  of  the  streets. 

From  its  local  situation  in  reference  to  the  gold  re- 
gion, San  Francisco  must  always  remain  the  great  seat 
of  the  ocean  trade  of  California.  Already  it  has  exten- 
sive mercantile  communications  with  all  parts  of  the 
world.  It  is  connected  with  New  York  by  two  lines  of 
steam  packets,  one  by  the  way  of  Panama,  making  the 
distance  in  about  4  weeks,  a  packet  leaving  either  city 
every  fortnight,  and  carrying  the  mail ;  the  other,  also 
a  semi-monthly  line,  by  the  Lake  Nicaragua,  which  ac- 
complishes the  distance  in  about  4  days'  less  time.  The 
shortest  passage  from  San  Francisco  to  New  York  has 
been  21  days. 

Not  only  is  the  trade  with  the  Atlantic  ports  of  the 
United  States  very  great,  but  San  Francisco  has  an  ex- 
tensive commerce  with  Chili,  from  which  large  supplies 
of  flour  are  derived,  and  also  with  China,  whence  a 
great  influx  of  emigrants  is  flowing  to  California. 

The  tonnage  of  San  Francisco  is  230,000,  and  the 
freight  earnings  for  1855,  $3,900,000.  The  excess 


334       THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

of  exports  of  produce  over  imports  of  produce  were 
$989,000. 

The  number  of  actual  residents  in  1855  was  about 
60,000  ;  in  1850,  when  it  became  a  city,  but  15,000. 
Of  course  no  accurate  account  can  be  given  of  the  im- 
mense floating  population,  for  which  this  city,  above  all 
others  in  the  world,  is  so  distinguished. 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  335 


El  VEES. 


OHIO   RIVER. 

THE  Ohio  River,  from  the  extent  of  the  area  drained 
by  its  waters,  the  large  facilities  which  it  affords  to  in- 
ternal commerce,  and  its  relative  position  in  the  heart 
of  the  country,  connecting  the  largest  maritime  states 
with  the  west,  is  second  in  importance  only  to  the  Mis- 
sissippi. It  is  the  great  north-east  tributary  of  the 
"  Father  of  "Waters."  Its  general  course  is  from  the 
north-east  to  the  south-west,  making  about  10°  of  lon- 
gitude, and  3^-°  of  latitude  ;  and  flowing  from  the  bor- 
der of  New  York  through  Western  Pennsylvania,  it 
separates  the  States  of  Virginia  and  Kentucky,  on  the 
south,  from  Ohio,  Indiana,  and  Illinois  on  the  north. 
Physically  considered,  the  River  Alleghany,  which  rises 
in  Potter  county,  Pennsylvania,  on  the  west  slope  of 
the  Alleghany  Mountains,  and  which  is  navigable  for 
boats  of  100  tons  for  270  miles  above  Pittsburg,  is  one 
river  with  the  Ohio,  although  it  does  not  receive  this 
name  until  it  forms  a  junction  with  the  Monongahela, 
another  large  tributary  of  the  Ohio,  coming  down  from 
the  Alleghanies  in  the  opposite  direction.  This  river, 
though  a  less  important  stream  than  the  Alleghany,  is 
about  equal  to  it  in  width  at  their  confluence,  and  is 
navigable,  at  a  good  stage  of  water,  for  boats  of  a  large 


336       THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR' 

size  for  about  100  miles  from  its  mouth.  The  Ohio 
proper  is  formed  by  the  confluence  of  these  two  rivers 
at  Pittsburg,  where  the  elevation  is  680  feet  above  tide 
water,  and  380  feet  above  the  point  of  junction  with 
the  Mississippi.  Its  average  descent  is  not  quite  5 
inches  to  the  mile.  Immediately  below  the  junction 
the  Ohio  is  600  yards  wide,  and  is  a  placid  and  beauti- 
ful stream.  The  French  called  it  La  Belle  Riviere, 
the  beautiful  river.  Its  name,  however,  according  to 
Heckewelder,  is  an  abbreviation  of  the  Indian  word 
Ohiopekhanne,  meaning  a  very  white  stream,  and  al- 
luding probably  to  the  white  caps  with  which  its  gen- 
tle surface  is  covered  in  a  high  wind.  The  physical 
section  of  the  great  Mississippi  Yalley,  which  is  drained 
by  the  Ohio  River,  lies  between  latitude  34°  12'  and 
42°  27',  and  longitude  78°  2'  and  89°  2'  west  from  the 
meridian  of  Greenwich.  According  to  Darby  and 
Dwight,  who  have  minutely  recorded  the  elements  of 
these  calculations,  the  distance  in  a  direct  line  from 
the  sources  of  the  Alleghany  to  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio 
is  680  statute  miles.  Yet  this  is  not  the  longest,  nor, 
in  regard  to  the  proportions  of  the  area  included,  the 
most  central  line  which  can  be  drawn  through  the 
valley  of  the  Ohio.  Such  a  line,  extended  from  the 
sources  of  Cattaraugus  Creek,  in  New  York,  to  those 
of  Bear  Creek,  in  Alabama,  the  extreme  distances 
reached  by  the  north-east  and  the  south-west  tributa- 
ries of  the  Ohio,  gives  a  length  of  750  statute  miles. 
If  this  be  considered  as  the  transverse  diameter,  and 
another  line  extending  from  the  Blue  Ridge,  where  the 


THE    GREAT  WEST.  337 

sources  of  the  Great  Kenhawa  and  those  of  the  Wetau- 
ga  branch  of  the  River  Tennessee  arise,  to  the  north- 
west sources  of  the  Wabash,  a  distance  of  450  statute 
miles,  be  taken  as  the  conjugate  diameter  of  an  ellipse, 
to  the  regular  form  of  which  the  Ohio  valley  so  nearly 
approaches,  the  whole  area  amounts  by  calculation  to 
over  200,000  square  miles.  The  two  opposing  inclined 
planes  of  this  valley  are  of  unequal  extent,  about  in 
the  ratio  of  2  to  3,  the  larger  being  that  which  falls  to 
the  south-west  from  the  Appalachian  Mountains,  con- 
taining an  area  of  120,000  square  miles.  This  also, 
declining  from  a  mountainous  outline,  has  a  much 
more  rapid  declivity  than  its  opposite.  The  most  ele- 
vated table  lands  from  which  the  eastern  tributaries  of 
the  Ohio  flow  have  an  altitude  of  2200  feet  above  the 
bed  of  the  river  ;  and  there  is  no  part,  from  the  sources 
of  the  Alleghany  to  those  of  the  Tennessee,  which  has 
a  less  elevation  than  700  or  800  feet.  Of  course,  the 
declivity  in  this  great  inclined  plane  is  much  the  most 
rapid  as  it  approaches  its  apex  upon  its  mountainous 
border.  In  this  respect  the  opposite  plain,  or  that  on 
the  north-west  side  of  the  river,  is  directly  the  reverse. 
The  more  remote  parts  of  this  more  gentle  declivity, 
lying  near  the  borders  of  Lake  Erie  and  of  Lake  Michi- 
gan, are,  to  a  great  extent,  level  and  marshy,  and  it  is 
not  until  the  waters  running  towards  the  Ohio  have 
travelled  far  on  their  courses,  that  they  gradually 
begin  to  descend  more  rapidly  towards  their  recipient, 
as  the  face  of  the  country  changes  slowly  from  a  level 
into  hill  and  dale.  The  principal  tributaries  of  the 
29 


338        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

Ohio  on  the  east  side  are  the  Monongahela,  the  Great 
Kenhawa,  the  Big  Sandy,  the  Kentucky,  the  Cumber- 
land, and  the  Tennessee.  Those  on  the  west  side  are 
the  Muskingum,  the  Scioto,  the  Miami,  and  the  Wabash. 
From  the  difference  of  feature  above  mentioned,  in 
the  two  opposite  inclined  planes,  down  which  these 
tributaries  descend  from  the  east  and  from  the  west,  it 
results  that  the  scenery  upon  those  on  the  east  side,  as 
they  are  ascended  towards  their  sources  in  the  Appa- 
lachian chain,  becomes  more  and  more  bold  and  pic- 
turesque, while  that  upon  the  western  tributaries,  as  you 
ascend  their  streams,  becomes  more  and  more  tame  and 
monotonous.  The  scenery  upon  the  Ohio  itself  par- 
takes of  the  peculiarity  in  this  respect  which  belongs 
to  its  eastern  tributaries.  Descending  the  river  from 
Pittsburg,  the  scenery  along  its  banks  and  hills  is  highly 
picturesque  and  varied ;  but  these  fine  features  gradu- 
ally disappear,  and  are  entirely  lost  long  before  reach- 
ing the  mouth  of  the  river.  Many  villages  and  farm 
houses  are  passed  through  the  whole  course  of  the 
river ;  but  as  the  bottom  lands  on  its  immediate  margin 
are  liable  to  be  overflowed,  the  inhabitants  usually 
settle  a  little  back,  so  that  the  buildings  in  view  give 
no  adequate  impression  of  the  population  or  im- 
provements of  the  country.  The  ordinary  current  in 
the  Ohio  is  very  gentle,  not  exceeding,  at  the  me- 
dium height  of  water,  2  or  3  miles  an  hour.  In 
the  lowest  stages  of  the  water,  a  floating  substance 
would  probably  not  advance  a  mile  an  hour.  Like 
all  the  western  rivers,  the  Ohio  is  subject  to  great 


THE   GREAT  WEST.  339 

elevations  and  depressions.  The  average  range  between 
high  and  low  water  is  50  feet.  Its  highest  stage  is  in 
March,  and  its  lowest  in  September.  It  is  liable,  how- 
ever, to  great  and  sudden  elevations  at  other  times 
through  the  year.  It  has  been  known  to  rise  12  feet 
in  a  single  night.  In  1832  an  extraordinary  flood  was 
experienced,  and  on  the  18th  of  February  the  waters 
flowed  at  63  feet  above  low  water  mark  at  Cincinnati. 
This  of  course  inundated  the  lower  parts  of  the  city. 
From  Pittsburg  to  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio  there  are  as 
many  as  100  considerable  islands,  besides  numerous 
sand  bars  and  tow  heads,  as  those  low,  sandy  islands 
are  called,  which  are  covered  with  willows,  and  are  in- 
capable of  cultivation.  Some  of  the  islands  are  very 
beautiful,  and  seem  inviting  as  places  of  residence. 
Heavy  forests  cover  a  great  portion  of  the  banks,  and 
limit  the  prospect  from  the  river ;  but  they  exhibit  a 
beautiful  verdure,  which  is  often  exuberant  with  blos- 
soms. As  a  channel  for  navigation,  few,  if  any,  of  the 
rivers  of  the  globe  equal  the  Ohio.  The  only  direct 
cataract  in  the  river  is  that  at  Louisville,  which  is  now, 
for  all  the  purposes  of  navigation,  obviated  by  a  canal, 
which  admits  of  the  passage  of  the  largest  steamboats. 
The  river  descends  here,  in  its  natural  bed,  22|-  feet  in 
the  course  of  2  miles.  Even  over  this  the  boats  are 
able  to  pass,  in  high  water.  The  average  time  of  the 
suspension  of  navigation  on  the  Ohio  by  the  ice  in  win- 
ter is  5  weeks.  One  half  of  the  rest  of  the  year,  on  an 
average,  it  is  navigable  by  large  steamboats  in  its  whole 
course.  The  other  half  it  can  be  navigated  easily  only 


340 


THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 


by  boats  of  a  smaller  draught.  Flat  and  keel  boats 
descend  the  river  at  all  seasons,  but  are  liable  in  peri- 
ods of  low  water  to  frequent  groundings  upon  the  sand 
bars,  and  the  necessity  sometimes  of  lightening  to  get 
off  the  boat.  Steamboats  are  sometimes  grounded  on 
the  bars,  where  they  are  compelled  to  wait  in  peril  for 
the  periodical  rise  of  the  river.  It  is  reckoned  that  the 
Ohio  and  its  tributaries  have  not  less  than  5000  miles 
of  navigable  waters. 


DISTANCES   ON  THE   OHIO. 


PROM  PITTSBURG  TO  CAIRO. 


Middletown       ....... 

.  .  11 

...  416 

688 

..  23 

Manchester,  

423 

Leaven  worth,  

696 

..  29 

435 

Fredonia,  

.  .  .     700 

Maysville,  

....435 

Alton,   

713 

..  48 

....443 

723 

..  52 

Ripley,  

....445 

734 

Wellsville                    .  • 

.  .  56 

....451 

734 

76 

...  455 

744 

83 

462 

..  91 

469 

763 

..100 

New  Richmond,.  .  .  . 

....478 

769 

Little  Miami  River, 

.  .  .  .490 

781 

..113 

....492 

790 

..150 

Cincinnati,  

497 

Enterprise,  

796 

.  175 

North  Bend     

513 

811 

..192 

Great  Miami  River,. 

....517 

817 

..205 

Lawrenceburg,   .  .  .  . 

....519 

825 

Belpre,  

..205 

....524 

835 

Blennerhassett  Island, 

..207 
218 

Rising  Sun,  

....530 
533 

861 

876 

iioc  "ing  p      ,  • 

239 

544 

Wabash  River 

881 

Letaitsville 

261 

Patriot          .  .  . 

546 

Raleigh 

887 

,.fl76 

Warsaw,  

....556 

Shawneetown,  .  .  .  . 

892 

Sheffield,  
Coalport,  '•  

..277 
..277 

Vevay,  

566 
576 

Cave  in  the  Rock,. 

914 

..289 

Madison    

588 

Elizabethtown    .  .  . 

921 

..293 

597 

933 

317 

Westport 

612 

Smithland         .  .  .  . 

951 

330 

Utica 

628 

....  951 

uuya     otte,  

330 

636 

....966 

..338 

....637 

966 

..342 

....639 

972 

356 

.  640 

975 

362 

Portland   ...» 

..     640 

999 

trretnups  urg,  •..   » 

384 

West  Point 

660 

....1008 

Bockville  

..400 

....677 

Cairo,  

.  .  .  .1013 

..404 

Manckport,  

....678 

THE  GREAT  WEST.  341 


MISSISSIPPI  RIVER. 

The  largest  and  most  important  river  of  the  United 
States,  or  of  North  America.  The  import,  in  the  Al- 
gonquin language,  of  the  name  Mis  si  Sepe,  is  Great 
River.  Whether  we  consider  its  great  length,  its 
mighty  and  numerous  tributaries,  the  extent  of  coun- 
try which  it  drains,  or  the  distance  to  which  it  is  navi- 
gable, it  well  deserves  the  title  which  the  Indians  have 
given  to  it,  "  The  Father  of  Waters."  If  estimated  by 
the  criterion  which  is  now  considered  as  determining 
the  comparative  importance  of  the  great  rivers,  —  the 
extent  of  the  area  drained  by  its  waters,  —  it  is  the 
fifth,  or  perhaps  the  fourth,  in  rank  among  the  rivers 
of  the  earth,  and  the  third  among  the  rivers  of  the 
American  continent.  The  basin,  or  valley,  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi extends  from  the  Appalachian  chain  of  moun- 
tains on  the  east  to  the  Rocky  Mountains  on  the  west, 
and  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  on  the  south  to  the  great 
lakes  and  the  boundary  between  the  United  States  and 
the  British  possessions  on  the  north  and  north-west. 
This  great  basin  is  composed  of  two  very  unequal  slopes, 
or  inclined  planes.  One,  the  west,  and  most  extensive, 
falling  east  from  the  Rocky  Mountains,  ha^  a  mean 
width  of  about  800  miles ;  the  other,  which  declines 
from  the  Appalachian  Mountains  west,  has  a  mean 
width  of  about  400  miles.  The  base  line,  or  line  of 
common  depression,  follows  the  valley  of  the  Illinois, 
29* 


342        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

and  of  the  Mississippi  below  the  point  where  the  former 
unites  with  the  latter.  A  line  drawn  from  the  Appa- 
lachian chain,  at  the  source  of  the  Tennessee,  to  the 
source  of  the  most  north-west  tributary  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, measures  a  distance  of  about  2000  miles ;  and  a 
line  drawn  nearly  at  right  angles  to  this,  from  the 
sources  of  the  Red  River,  to  those  of  the  Wisconsin, 
measures  about  1100  miles.  The  average  width  of  the 
Mississippi  basin  is  about  550  miles.  The  extent  of 
surface  included  in  this  vast  area  is  about  1,100,000 
square  miles.  This  exceeds  the  aggregate  of  all  the 
valleys  drained  by  the  rivers  of  the  Atlantic  slope,  in- 
cluding that  of  the  River  St.  Lawrence.  The  principal 
tributaries  of  the  Mississippi  are  the  Red  River,  the 
Arkansas,  the  White,  the  Missouri,  and  the  Yellow- 
stone, from  the  west,  and  the  Ohio  and  Illinois  from 
the  east.  These  great  rivers,  with  many  others  of  in- 
ferior magnitude,  draining  the  different  parts  of  the 
great  basin  from  which  they  come,  unite  with  the 
Mississippi  proper,  and  pour  their  waters  through  its 
channel  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  Above  the  conflu- 
ence of  the  Missouri  with  the  Mississippi,  the  former, 
although  denoted  as  a  secondary  to  the  latter,  is  much 
the  larger  of  the  two.  But  the  Mississippi,  having  been 
first  explored,  retains,  through  its  course,  the  name 
which  it  then  received.  Above  the  entrance  of  the 
Missouri,  it  is  known  in  common  parlance  as  the  Upper 
Mississippi.  The  river  is  called  the  Mississippi  proper, 
in  distinction  from  this  great  tributary,  so  much  its 
siiperior ;  inasmuch  as,  from  the  natural  features  of 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  343 

the  entire  basin  denominated  the  Valley  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, it  would  seem  that  the  Missouri  should  bear  the 
same  name,  or  that  it  is  better  entitled  to  be  considered 
as  the  true  Mississippi.  The  extreme  source  of  the 
Mississippi  was  discovered  by  Schoplcraft,  July  13, 
1832,  to  be  the  Itasca  Lake,  in  47°  10'  north  latitude, 
and  94°  54'  west  longitude,  at  an  elevation  of  1500  feet 
above  the  ocean,  and  3160  miles  from  its  entrance  into 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  This  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water, 
of  irregular  shape,  about  8  miles  long,  situated  among 
hills  covered  with  pine  forests,  and  fed  by  springs.  It 
has  its  outlet  to  the  north,  which  is  about  10  or  12  feet 
wide,  and  from  12  to  18  inches  deep,  which,  flowing 
north,  passes  through  Lakes  Irving  and  Traverse.,  It 
then  turns  east,  and  passes  through  several  small  lakes 
to  Lake  Cass,  which  is  about  16  miles  long,  and  con- 
tains several  islands.  Thence  it  flows  east  to  Lake 
Winnipec,  and  south-east  to  Little  Lake  Winnipec,  be- 
low which  it  receives  Leech  Lake  through  an  outlet, 
which  was  formerly  supposed  to  be  the  source  of  the 
Mississippi.  From  this  point  the  river  expands  to  a 
hundred  feet  in  width,  and  flows  through  a  low  prairie 
country  till  it  reaches  the  Falls  of  Peckagama,  where 
it  descends  about  20  feet  over  a  rapid  of  300  yards. 
These  falls  are  about  685  miles  above  the  Falls  of  St., 
Anthony.  All  the  sources  of  the  Mississippi  take  their 
rise  in  latitude  42°  to  48°  north,  and  the  general  course 
of  the  river  is  south,  bearing  east  in  the  upper  part 
through  about  20  degrees  of  latitude,  to  its  entrance 
into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  By  this  rule  of  computation, 


344  THE   GARDEN   OF  THE  WORLD,   OR 

the  length  of  the  Valley  of  the  Mississippi  proper  is 
about  400  miles ;  but  the  extent  of  travel  by  the  course 
of  the  river  is  probably  twice  this  number  of  miles.  It 
has  indeed  been  estimated  higher  than  this ;  but  the 
length  of  rivers  extending  far  into  these  remote  and 
sparsely-settled  regions  of  the  country  has  been  gen- 
erally overrated.  The  gradual  declivity  of  the  Missis- 
sippi valley,  however,  is  so  very  slight,  giving  a  fall  to 
the  waters  of  not  more  than  five  or  six  inches  to  the 
mile  upon  an  average,  and  the  soil  through  which  its 
channel  is  made  is  so  tender  and  easily  worn  away,  that 
the  smallest  obstacles  in  the  stream,  or  the  most  incon- 
siderable variations  in  the  surface  of  the  country,  have 
been  sufficient  to  divert  the  current  from  an  onward 
direction,  and  to  give  it  oftentimes  a  very  serpentine 
and  circuitous  course."  The  Mississippi  meets  with  very 
few  falls  or  rapids  in  its  course.  The  Falls  of  St.  An- 
thony, about  2000  miles  from  its  source,  terminate  the 
route  of  steamboat  navigation.  Down  these  falls,  the 
river,  which  is  here  about  half  a  mile  wide,  precipitates 
its  waters  in  a  perpendicular  descent  of  about  16  or  17 
feet,  making,  with  the  descent  of  the  rapids  above  and 
below,  a  fall  of  about  40  feet.  For  a  long  distance  be- 
low it  is  a  clear,  placid,  and  beautiful  stream,  skirted 
with  wide  and  fertile  bottoms,  or  alluvial  margins, 
which  are  under  water  at  the  season  of  floods.  A  few 
miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  River  Des  Moines,  and 
about  100  miles  above  the  entrance  of  the  Missouri, 
there  are  rapids  of  about  10  miles  in  extent,  which,  at 
low  water  in  the  summer,  occasion  considerable  imped- 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  345 

iment  to  the  navigation.  Where  the  Missouri  enters, 
the  river  has  a  width  of  a  mile  and  a  half ;  but  below 
this,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  although  the  volume  of 
its  waters  is  greatly  increased  by  those  of  this  mighty 
tributary,  the  width  of  the  stream  is  considerably  less. 
Its  channel,  however,  has  greater  depth,  and  its  cur- 
rent a  more  accelerated  and  turbulent  movement.  At 
the  lowest  stages,  4  feet  of  water  may  be  found  from 
the  rapids  of  Des  Moines  to  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri. 
Below  that  point,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  there  are 
6  feet  in  the  channel  of  the  lowest  places,  at  low  water. 
Between  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio  and  the  St.  Francis 
there  are  various  shoals,  where  pilots  are  often  per- 
plexed to  find  a  sufficient  depth  for  their  boats  during 
low  water.  Below  that  point  there  is  no  difficulty  at 
any  season,  except  in  finding  the  right  channel.  The 
river  washes  the  entire  western  border  of  the  State  of 
Mississippi,  which  it  separates  from  Arkansas  and  Lou- 
isiana, for  a  distance,  by  the  windings  of  the  stream,  of 
530  miles.  A  large  portion  of  its  banks,  in  this  sec- 
tion of  its  course,  consists  of  inundated  swamp  covered 
with  cypress,  excepting  occasional  elevated  bluffs,  which 
rise  immediately  upon  the  borders  of  the  river.  Natch- 
ez, the  largest  and  most  commercial  place  in  this  state, 
is  situated  on  one  of  these  bluffs,  elevated  250  feet 
above  the  surface  of  the  river.  About  500  miles  from 
its  mouth,  the  Red  River  enters  the  Mississippi  from 
the  west.  This  is  the  last  of  the  tributaries  of  any 
consequence  which  it  receives.  Next  to  the  Missouri 
and  the  Arkansas,  it  is  the  largest  which  comes  in  from 


346        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

the  west,  and  discharges  about  as  much  water  as  the 
latter.  Here  the  Mississippi  carries  its  greatest  volume 
of  water,  as  immediately  below  this  it  sends  off,  at  in- 
tervals, several  large  outlets,  which  make  their  way  in 
separate  channels  to  the  ocean.  Three  miles  below  the 
mouth  of  Red  River,  the  Atchafalaya,  or  Chiaffalio  Ba- 
you, as  it  is  called,  passes  off  on  the  west  side,  which 
is  supposed  to  carry  off  as  much  water  as  the  Red 
River  brings  in.  The  Atchafalaya  has  been  supposed 
to  be  the  ancient  bed  of  the  Red  River  itself,  by  which 
it  continued  its  course  to  the  ocean  without  forming  a 
connection,  as  now,  with  the  Mississippi.  The  latter 
has  here  effected  a  change  in  its  course  by  cutting 
through  the  isthmus  of  a  large  bend,  in  consequence 
of  which  its  main  channel  does  not  now  pass  by  the 
mouth  of  the  Red  River.  By  these  changes,  it  is  prob- 
able there  has  been  some  disturbance  of  the  natural 
course  of  that  river.  The  Atchafalaya,  inclining  to  the 
east  of  south,  enters  the  bay  of  the  same  name  in  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico.  The  outlet  Plaquemine  leaves  the 
Mississippi  128  miles  below  the  outlet  Atchafalaya. 
31  miles  below  the  Plaquemine,  and  81  above  New 
Orleans,  is  the  outlet  of  La  Fourche,  which  also  com- 
municates with  the  ocean.  Below  this  there  are  numer- 
ous small  streams  leaving  the  Mississippi  at  different 
points.  On  the  east  side  the  principal  outlet  is  the 
Iberville,  which  passes  off  a  little  below  Baton  Rouge, 
going  through  Lakes  Maurepas,  Pont  char  train,  and 
Borgne,  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  In  times  of  flood 
this  outlet  carries  off  considerable  water.  Between 


THE   GREAT  WEST.  347 

• 

this  outlet  on  the  east  and  Atchafalaya  on  the  west  is 
included  what  is  called  the  Delta  of  the  Mississippi. 
At  the  distance  of  105  miles  below  New  Orleans,  by 
the  course  of  the  river,  and  of  90  miles  in  a  direct  line, 
this  majestic  river  enters  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  by  its 
several  mouths,  the  principal  of  which  is  the  north-east 
pass,  called  the  Balize,  29°  7'  25"  north  latitude,  and 
89°  10'  west  longitude,  and  the  south-west  pass,  29° 
8'  north  latitude,  and  89°  25'  west  longitude.  Most 
of  the  vessels  enter  and  leave  the  river  by  the  Balize. 
The  depth  of  water  on  the  bar,  at  each  of  these  passes, 
is  from  12  to  17  feet,  but  much  greater  immediately 
within  and  without.  The  river  is  navigable  for  vessels 
of  any  size,  which  are  now  for  the  most  part  taken  up 
to  New  Orleans  by  steam  tow-boats,  as  the  most  expe- 
ditious and  economical  method  of  reaching  the  city. 
Sailing  vessels  seldom  go  farther  up  than  Natchez,  322 
miles  above  New  Orleans,  as  the  navigation  of  the  river 
by  steamboats  is  much  more  convenient.  The  Delta 
of  the  Mississippi,  if  we  regard  the  efflux  of  the  Atcha- 
falaya as  its  apex,  and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  as  its  base, 
stretches  over  two  degrees  of  latitude  and  three  degrees 
of  longitude.  The  distance  from  the  outlet  of  Atcha- 
falaya to  the  mouths  of  the  Mississippi  is  220  miles. 
Its  breadth  varies  from  10  miles  to  100,  and  its  area 
amounts  to  at  least  12,000  square  miles,  or  one  fourth 
part  of  the  State  of  Louisiana.  The  very  trifling  ele- 
vation of  the  Delta,  by  its  acclivity  from  the  ocean,  is 
demonstrated  by  the  fact,  that  in  autumn,  when  the 
rivers  are  reduced  to  their  lowest  mark,  the  tides  of 


348        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

% 

the  gulf,  of  only  about  2  feet  mean  elevation,  are  sen- 
sibly felt  in  the  Atchafalaya  and  Iberville,  at  their 
efflux  from  the  Mississippi,  sometimes  even  causing  the 
current  to  flow  back  from  the  former  into  the  latter. 
From  the  physical  characteristics  of  the  Delta,  it  has 
been  supposed  by  some  geographers  that  the  main  chan- 
nel of  the  Mississippi  is  changeable.  But  this  must  be 
a  mistaken  opinion.  When  the  annual  inundations 
occur,  the  surface  of  the  river  is  indeed  above  that  of 
the  surrounding  country ;  and  the  effect  of  the  action 
of  its  powerful  current  in  leaving  a  greater  deposit  of 
alluvion  upon  its  immediate  banks  than  farther  back, 
has  been  to  give  them  a  permanent  elevation  above  the 
general  surface.  Nevertheless  these  superficial  banks, 
which  of  course  are  liable  to  accretion  or  abrasion  in 
the  lapse  of  time,  are  as  nothing  to  the  deep  bed  of  the 
stream,  which,  as  in  the  case  of  all  other  rivers,  is  the 
deepest  valley  of  the  region  through  which  it  flows. 
That  this  is  the  character  of  the  main  channel  of  the 
Mississippi  is  apparent  from  the  soundings  which  have 
been  made,  showing  a  depth  at  the  head  of  the  Delta, 
at  the  lowest  water,  of  75  to  80  feet ;  of  130  feet  near 
the  outlet  of  La  Fourche,  at  Donaldsonville ;  of  100 
feet  and  upwards  opposite  New  Orleans ;  and  of  75  to 
80  feet  three  miles  above  the  main  bars,  at  its  mouth. 
Comparing  these  elements  with  those  of  the  deepest 
lake  of  Louisiana,  Lake  Pontchartrain,  the  bottom  of 
which  is  not  more  than  18  to  25  feet  below  the  general 
level  of  the  Delta,  the  bed  of  the  river  is  seen  to  be 
from  75  to  80  feet  below  the  bottom  of  the  lowest  ad- 


THE   GREAT  WEST.  349 

jacent  depression.  With  the  exception  of  some  changes 
which  have  been  effected,  both  in  and  above  the  Delta, 
by  the  cutting  off  of  the  necks  of  isthmuses,  formed 
originally  by  almost  circular  bendings  in  the  river,  the 
current  of  the  Mississippi  is  as  effectually  and  perma- 
nently confined  to  its  channel  as  that  of  any  other 
river.  In  this  phenomenon,  such  lakes  as  that  of 
Pausse  Riviere,  (False  River,)  of  which  there  are  some 
six  or  seven,  either  formed  or  forming,  have  had  their 
origin.  This  fine  lake,  in  the  parish  of  Point  Coupee, 
172  miles  above  New  Orleans,  was  once  a  bend  of  the 
Mississippi.  In  or  about  the  year  1714,  the  change 
above  described  was  effected,  from  which  both  the 
names  Fausse  Riviere  and  Point  Coupee  (Point  Cut 
Off)  are  derived.  By  cutting  through  this  narrow 
neck  of  land,  the  Mississippi  shortened  its  course  up- 
wards of  30  miles.  Near  the  new  channel  the  old  bed 
was  rapidly  filled  with  alluvion,  but  in  all  other  parts 
it  retained  its  original  form,  and  is  now  a  lake,  with  a 
margin  possessing  the  usual  fertility  of  the  river  banks, 
and  occupied  with  farms  and  farm  houses.  From  the 
extent  of  country  drained  by  the  Mississippi,  it  neces- 
sarily follows  that  its  spring  floods  are  very  great,  and 
of  very  long  continuance.  In  a  mean  of  ten  years,  it 
appears  that  the  swell  commences  on  the  Delta,  about 
the  end  of  February,  and  continues  rising  to  the  middle 
of  June,  when  the  waters  begin  to  abate.  This  long 
and  gradual  discharge  is  occasioned  by  three  causes, 
depending  on  the  vast  extent  of  the  region  from  which 
the  floods  descend :  first,  varieties  of  temperature  from 
30 


350       THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

a  difference  of  latitude  and  an  increase  of  elevation ; 
second,  contrariety  of  direction  in  some  of  the  streams 
which  constitute  the  sources  of  the  river ;  third,  the 
time  required  for  the  waters  of  the  Upper  Mississippi, 
of  the  Missouri,  and  of  other  distant  regions,  to  traverse 
the  long  distance  from  the  sources  to  the  mouths  of 
this  mighty  river.  The  difference  of  latitude  from  the 
mouths  to  the  remotest  sources  of  the  Mississippi  is 
ahout  20  degrees,  and  the  relative  elevation  not  less 
than  5000  feet.  These  elements  combined  would  give 
a  winter  climate  to  the  sources  of  the  Missouri  or  Mis- 
sissippi, equal  to  that  of  Labrador,  in  latitude  61°,  on 
the  Atlantic  coast.  Permanent  snows  cover  the  earth 
in  winter,  over  the  Atlantic  slope  and  Mississippi  basin, 
as  low  as  latitude  31°, t the  waters  from  which,  it  is  ob- 
vious, cannot  be  simultaneously  discharged.  The  gen- 
eral course  of  the  flood  being  south,  the  spring  advances 
in  a  reverse  direction,  and  releases  in  succession  the 
waters  of  the  lower  valley,  then  those  of  the  Ohio,  and 
last  those  of  the  Mississippi  proper  and  the  Missouri. 
Rising  in  latitude  42°  to  50°  north,  and  at  an  elevation 
of  from  1200  to  5000  feet,  the  higher  sources  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi are  locked  in  ice  and  snow  long  after  summer 
reigns  on  the  Delta.  Then  the  course  of  the  Missouri 
and  Yellowstone  Rivers  is  to  the  north-east  at  first,  for 
500  or  600  miles,  from  which  circumstances,  together 
with  the  slow  movement  of  the  waters,  it  results  that 
the  waters  of  the  upper  sources  of  the  Mississippi  do 
not  reach  the  Delta  before  the  beginning  of  August, 
about  100  days  after  the  breaking  up  of  winter,  and 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  351 

more  than  a  month  after  the  inundation  has  been  abat- 
ing. The  average  height  of  the  floods,  below  the  mouth 
of  the  Missouri,  is  15  feet.  From  the  Missouri  to  the 
Ohio  it  rises  25  feet,  and  for  a  great  distance  below  the 
mouth  of  the  Ohio  it  rises  50  feet.  Before  reaching 
Natchez,  the  height  of  the  floods  begins  to  decline.  At 
Baton  Rouge  it  seldom  exceeds  30  feet,  and  at  New 
Orleans  12.  This  gradual  diminution  in  the  flood,  in 
the  lower  part,  has  been  supposed  by  some  to  result 
from  the  draining  through  the  numerous  effluxes  of  the 
river,  conveying  away  such  considerable  portions  of  its 
waters  by  separate  channels  to  the  sea.  So  greatly 
does  the  quantity  of  snow  and  rain  differ  in  different 
years,  that  it  is  quite  impossible,  even  for  those  who 
have  had  the  longest  experience,  to  anticipate,  with  an 
approach  to  certainty,  the  elevation  which  the  flood  will 
attain  in  any  given  year.  Some  years  the  waters  do 
not  rise  above  their  channels,  and  no  inundation  takes 
place.  As  the  banks  of  the  river  in  the  Delta,  from 
the  cause  above  noticed,  are  higher  than  the  general 
level  of  the  country,  constituting  an  alluvial  margin 
of  from  half  a  mile  to  a  mile  and  a  half  wide,  it  be- 
comes important  to  protect  some  of  the  more  valuable 
tracts  in  the  rear  from  the  annual  overflow  of  the  river, 
from  which  they  could  not  easily  be  drained.  For  this 
purpose  an  artificial  embankment  has  been  raised  at 
great  expense  upon  the  margin  of  the  river,  called  the 
Levee.  On  the  east  side  this  embankment  commences 
60  miles  above  New  Orleans,  and  extends  down  the 
river  more  than  130  miles.  On  the  west  side  it  com- 


352        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

mences  172  miles  above  New  Orleans.  The  vast  trade 
of  the  Valley  of  the  Mississippi  centres  at  New  Orleans. 
Vessels  are  often  from  5  to  30  days  ascending  the  rjver 
to  this  port,  unless  they  employ  the  steam  tow-boats, 
though  they  will  often  descend  with  a  favorable  wind 
in  12  hours.  Before  the  introduction  of  steamboats  it 
required  8  or  10  weeks  to  go  to  the  mouth  of  the  Illi- 
nois. The  use  of  steamboats  has  nearly  superseded  all 
other  vessels  for  ascending  the  river.  Boats  of  40  tons 
ascend  more  than  2000  miles,  to  the  Falls  of  St.  An- 
thony. The  passage  from  Cincinnati  to  New  Orleans 
and  back  has  been  made  in  19  days.  The  first  steam- 
boat on  the  western  waters  was  built  at  Pittsburg  in 
1811,  and  there  are  now  over  300  on  the  Mississippi 
and  its  tributaries,  many  of  them  of  great  burden.  By 
the  opening  of  the  Illinois  Canal  from  Chicago  to  the 
head  of  navigation  in  the  Illinois  River,  a  connection 
has  been  formed  between  the  waters  of  the  River  St. 
Lawrence  and  the  Mississippi,  of  sufficient  draught  to 
admit  the  passage  of  small  vessels,  laden  with  their 
cargoes  of  merchandise.  Some  time  in  the  autumn  of 
1849,  the  first  vessel  was  reported  at  New  Orleans  as 
having  arrived  from  the  St.  Lawrence,  via  the  Welland 
Canal,  the  great  lakes,  the  Illinois  Canal  and  River, 
and  the  Mississippi.  Returning  by  the  Atlantic  coast, 
she  might  then  have  circumnavigated  the  United 
States. 


THE   GBEAT   WEST. 


353 


DISTANCES   ON   THE   MISSISSIPPI. 


ST.  LOUIS   TO  NEW  ORLEANS. 


St.  Louis, 0 

Jeffersoii  Barracks, ....    9 

Harrisonville, 28 

Herculaneum, 30 

Selma 34 

St.  Genevieve, 59 

Chester. 75 

Bainbridge, 120 

Cape  Girardeau, 132 

Commerce, 144 

Cairo(mouth  of  Ohio  R.)  172 

Columbus, 190 

Hickman, 205 

New  Madrid, 247 

Little  Prairie, 277 

Obion  River, 306 

Ashport, 314 

Osceola, 326 

Fulton, 336 

Randolph  (mouth  of 
Hatchie  River), 347 


Greenock, 380 

Memphis, 414 

Commerce, 441 

Peyton, 474 

Sterling  (mouth  of  St. 

Francis  River), 486 

Helena, 496 

Delta, 506 

Victoria, 571 

Montgomery's  Point,.. 572 
Napoleon  (mouth  of 

Arkansas  Rivef),. . .  .592 
Bolivar  Court  House,.  .604 

Columbia, 657 

Princeton, 702 

Providence, 731 

Yazoo  River, 792 

Vicksburg, 804 

Warrenton, 814 

Carthage, 833 


Grand  Gulf, 860 

Ruinsburg, 870 

Rodney, 880 

Natchez, 911 

Ellis  Cliffs, 929 

Homochitta  River, 955 

Fort  Adams, 965 

Red  River  Island, \»76 

Point  Coupee, 1036 

St.  Francisville, 1036 

Port  Hudson, 1047 

Baton  Rouge, 1072 

Plaquemine, 1095 

Donaldsville, 1129 

Jefferson  College, 1148 

Red  Church, 1186 

Carrollton, 1206 

La  Fayette, 1210 

New  Orleans, 1212 


ST.  LOUIS  TO  THE  FALLS  OF  ST.  ANTHONY. 


St.  Louis, 0 

Missouri  River, 18 

Alton, 21 

Grafton, :.  39 

Illinois  River, 41 

Gilead, 73 

Hamburg, 83 

Clarksville, 96 

Louisiana, .107 

Hannibal, 132 

Quincy, 150 

La  Grange, 160 

Tully, 167 

Warsaw 184 

Des  Moines  River, 184 

Keokuk, 188 

Montrose, 201) 

Nauvoo, 200 

Madison, 210 


Burlington, 230 

Oquawka, 247 

New  Boston, 266 

Iowa  River,. 267 

Muscatine, 292 

Fairport, 299 

Andalusia, 309 

Rock  Island, 318 

Davenport, 318 

Hampton, 329 

Parkhurst, 337 

Albany, 356 

Lyons, 365 

Charleston, 380 

Savannah, .382 

Belle  view, 401 

Fever  River  (to  Galena 

6  miles), 408 

Dubuque, 428 


Peru, 436 

Cassville, 459 

Gottenburg, 465 

Wisconsin  River, 485 

Fort  Crawford, 487 

Prairie  du  Chien, 489 

Upper  Iowa  River, ....  527 

Bad  Axe  River, 539 

Root  River, 562 

Black  River, 574 

Chippewa  River, 642 

Maiden's  Rock, 667 

Lake  Pepin, 667 

St.  Croix  River, 702 

St.  Paul, 728 

Mendota, 733 

Fort  Snelling, 733 

St.  Anthony, 740 


MISSOURI  RIVER. 


The  sources  of  this  great  river  take  their  rise  in  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  and  some  of  their  springs  are  within 
a  mile  of  other  springs  which  discharge  themselves 
west,  through  the  Columbia  River,  into  the  Pacific 
Ocean.  The  three  principal  streams  which  constitute 
30* 


354       THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

the  head  waters  of  the  Missouri  are  the  Jefferson,  the 
Madison,  and  the  Gallatin,  which  unite  at  the  same 
point  in  latitude  45°  10'  north,  and  longitude  110° 
west.  From  their  confluence  at  this  point,  the  river 
takes  the  name  Missouri,  and  flows  onward,  receiving 
numerous  tributaries  in  its  course,  through  a  distance 
of  more  than  3000  miles,  to  its  junction  with  the  Mis- 
sissippi, in  latitude  38°  51'  north,  and  longitude  90° 
west.  Its  course  is  at  first  north  and  north-east,  to  the 
mouth  of  White  Earth  River,  latitude  47°  25' ;  thence 
south-east  about  220  miles,  to  the  Mandan  villages,  or 
Indian  settlements.  From  this  point,  the  river  takes  a 
south  course,  through  a  distance  of  several  hundred 
miles ;  and  then,  being  inflected  more  to  the  east,  it 
pursues  this  general  direction  to  the  Mississippi.  Al- 
though it  loses  its  name  at  its  confluence  with  the  Mis- 
sissippi, it  is,  before  it  reaches  this  point,  much  the 
longest  and  largest  river  of  the  two,  and,  physically 
considered,  is  entitled  to  be  denominated  the  principal, 
rather  than  the  secondary.  The  Missouri  is  already  a 
very  large  river,  when  it  approaches  and  passes  the 
sources  of  its  very  inferior  rival.  If  it  be  ranked  ac- 
cording to  physical  preeminence,  as  including  the  Mis- 
sissippi from  its  confluence  with  that  river  to  its  mouth, 
it  has  an  entire  length  of  about  4350  miles,  and  is  prob- 
ably the  longest  river  of  the  earth.  Ranking  it  as  a 
secondary  to  the  Mississippi,  and  having  reference  to 
the  area  drained  by  its  channel,  it  is  the  largest  river 
of  that  class  in  the  world.  A  direct  line  drawn  along 
its  valley,  from  its  junction  with  the  Mississippi  River 


THE  GREAT   WEST.  355 

to  the  head  of  Maria's  River,  one  of  its  most  north-west 
sources,  is  nearly  1400  miles  in  extent,  and  the  width 
of  the  upper  valley  of  the  Missouri,  as  that  part  is 
called  which  is  above  the  confluence  of  the  Yellowstone, 
is  not  less  than  600  miles  across  the  sources,  and  has  a 
mean  of  800  miles  in  the  general  direction  of  the 
streams.  The  entire  valley,  drained  by  the  Missouri 
proper,  includes  an  area  of  523,000  square  miles,  or  a 
surface  more  than  double  that  of  the  whole  Atlantic 
slope  of  the  United  States.  The  upper  valley  of  the 
Missouri  presents  a  surface,  on  the  west  side,  broken 
by  mountains,  and  gradually  spreading  into  plains,  as 
the  rivers  descend  in  their  courses.  The  whole  face  of 
the  cduntry,  with  partial  exceptions  along  the  rivers,  is 
open  prairie,  exhibiting  a  strong  resemblance  to  the 
steppes  of  Asia,  in  nearly  the  same  latitude.  The  sur- 
face of  the  lower  valley  is  also  extensively  occupied 
with  prairie,  the  alluvial  and  fertile  soil  on  the  rivers 
not  having  a  very  great  breadth.  The  first  large  trib- 
utary of  the  Missouri  is  the  Yellowstone.  This  river, 
800  yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  and  probably  the  largest 
tributary  of  the  Missouri,  enters  it  on  the  south-west 
side,  about  1800  miles  from  its  junction  with  the  Mis- 
sissippi. The  Yellowstone,  at  its  junction,  is  as  large 
as  the  Mis'souri.  Steamboats  ascend  to  this  point,  and 
can  ascend  farther  by  either  branch.  After  their  junc- 
tion, the  united  waters  of  the  Yellowstone  and  Missouri 
form  a  river  as  large  in  volume,  and  as  wide  and  deep, 
probably,  as  at  its  entrance  into  the  Mississippi.  Chi- 
enne  River,  400  yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  enters  the 


356 


Missouri  on  the  south-west  side,  1310  miles  from  its 
mouth ;  White  River,  300  yards  wide,  enters  it  on  the 
south-west  side,  1130  miles  from  its  mouth ;  Big  Sioux 
River,  110  yards  wide,  enters  it  853  miles  from  its 
mouth,  on  the  north-east  side  ;  Platte  River,  600  yards 
wide,  enters  it,  on  the  south-west  side,  600  miles  from 
its  mouth  ;  Kanzas  River,  233  yards  wide,  enters  it  on 
the  south-west  side,  340  miles  from  its  mouth  ;  Grand 
River,  190  yards  wide,  enters  it  the  north-east  side,  240 
miles  from  its  mouth  ;  La  Mine  River,  70  yards  wide, 
enters  it  200  miles  from  its  mouth  ;  Osage  River,  397 
yards  wide,  enters  it  on  the  south-west  side,  133  miles 
from  its  mouth ;  and  Gasconade  River  enters  it  on  the 
south-west  side,  100  miles  from  its  mouth.  The  largest 
of  these  tributaries  are  navigable  from  100  to  800  miles. 
Through  the  whole  course  of  the  Missouri  there  is  no 
serious  obstruction  to  the  navigation,  except,  perhaps, 
from  the  shallowness  of  the  water,  during  the  season 
of  the  greatest  drought,  before  arriving  at  Great  Falls, 
about  260  miles  from  the  Mississippi.  The  Missouri  is 
over  half  a  mile  wide  at  its  mouth,  and  through  the 
greater  part  of  its  course  it  is  wider  than  this.  It  is  a 
rapid  and  turbid  stream,  and  generally  carries  along  a 
powerful  volume  of  water ;.  but  owing  to  its  passing 
through  a  dry  and  open  country,  and  being  subject  to 
extensive  evaporation,  it  becomes  low  at  certain  seasons, 
hardly  affording  sufficient  water  for  steamboat  navi- 
gation. From  much  greater  relative  elevation,  from 
higher  latitudes,  and  from  the  peculiar  courses  of  some 
of  its  tributaries,  the  flood  in  the  Missouri  is  the  latest 


THE   GREAT  WEST. 


357 


in  order,  and  does  not  reach  the  Mississippi  proper 
until  after  the  flood  in  that  river,  the  Ohio,  Arkansas, 
and  Red  Rivers,  have  in  great  part  subsided.  At  the 
Great  Falls,  distant  about  2600  miles  from  the  Missis- 
sippi, the  river  descends,  by  a  succession  of  rapids  and 
falls,  375  feet  in  about  16£  miles.  The  lower  and 
greatest  of  these  falls  has  a  perpendicular  pitch  of  87 
feet,  the  second  of  19  feet,  the  third  of  47  feet,  and  the 
fourth  of  26  feet.  These  falls,  next  to  those  of  Niaga- 
ra, are  the  grandest  on  the  continent.  At  the  distance 
of  110  miles  above  these  falls  is  a  remarkable  passage 
of  the  river  through  the  mountains,  denominated  the 
Gates  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The  scenery  at  this 
place  is  exceedingly  grand.  For  a  distance  of  about  6 
miles,  the  rocks  rise  perpendicularly  from  the  margin 
of  the  river  to  an  elevation  of  1200  feet.  The  river  is 
compressed  to  the  width  of  150  yards,  and  for  the  first 
three  miles  there  is  only  one  spot,  and  that  only  of  a 
few  yards,  on  which  a  man  could  stand  between  the 
water  and  these  perpendicular  walls  of  the  mountain. 
Nothing  can  be  imagined  more  gloomy  and  impressive 
than  the  passage  through  this  deep  chasm. 

DISTANCES   ON   THE   MISSOURI. 


ST.  LOUIS   TO   COUNCIL  BLUFFS. 


St.  Louis, 0 

Mouth  of  Missouri  Riv.,  18 

St.  Charles 42 

Missouriton 63 

Newport 89 

Griswold  City, 97 

Hermann, 113 

Portland, 130 

C6te  sans  Dessein, 150 

Jefferson  City If 0 

Marion, 177 

Nashville 187 

Kocheport, 200 


Boonville, 211 

Arrow  Rock, 226 

Glasgow, 238 

Chariton 241 

Grand  River, 261 

Reedsburg, 284 

Lexington, 311 

Camden, 328 

Sibley, 344 

Livingston 361 

Kanzas  River 381 

Parksville. .. .' 389 


Little  Platte  River,.... 391 
Fort  Leavenworth, . . .  .411 

Weston 418 

St.  Joseph, 478 

Nodoway  River, 492 

Wolf  River, 508 

Great  Nemaha  River,.  .526 
Nishnebotna  River,  . .  .551 
Little  Nemaha  River,.  .5C3 

Nebraska  River, C33 

Bellevue f45 

Council  Bluffs......... 686 


358        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 


PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


SPEECH  OF  HON.  THOMAS  H.  BENTON, 

OF   MISSOURI, 
IN  THE  HOUSE  OF  REPRESENTATIVES,  JANUARY  16, 1855, 

On  the  Physical  Geography  of  the  Country  between  the  States  of  Missouri  and 
California,  with  a  View  to  show  its  Adaptation  to  Settlement,  and  to  the 
Construction  of  a  Railroad. 

The  House  being  in  the  Committee  of  the  Whole  on  the  state  of  the 
Union,  on  the  Pacific  Railroad  Bill  — 

Mr.  BENTON  said : 

MR.  CHAIRMAN  :  I  have  desired  for  some  time  past  to  change  the  plan 
of  making  this  road  —  to  withdraw  it  from  legislative  authority,  where 
political  and  sectional  interests  must  always  interpose  —  and  leave  it  to 
a  company  of  business  men,  where  business  considerations  could  only 
prevail ;  for  this  is  a  case  in  which  private  interest  and  public  interest 
would  go  hand  in  hand,  that  which  would  be  best  for  one  being  best 
for  the  other ;  and  so  insuring  the  selection  of  a  route  which  would  be 
most  national,  because  most  suitable  to  the  greatest  number.  With  this 
view  I  have  turned  my  attention  to  private  enterprise,  and  have  found 
solid  men  who  are  willing  to  take  the  preliminary  steps  now,  preparatory 
to  the  final  assumption  of  the  work  —  Congress  granting  the  necessary 
authority,  and  conferring  the  right  of  way  through  its  territories,  one  mile 
wide  on  each  side  of  the  road.  No  military  protection  —  no  alternate 
sections  —  no  gift  of  money  —  no  aid.  but  the  right  of  way,  and  payment 
for  transportation  of  mails,  tropps,  and  munitions,  according  to  a  plan 
not  yet  matured.  Telegraphic  lines  to  be  established  or  permitted,  and 
transportation  to  begin  before  the  road  is  finished,  by  using  stage  coaches 
for  the  remainder,  according  to  a  plan  which  may  be  agreed  upon.  No 
exclusive  privilege,  except  in  two  degrees  on  each  side  of  the  road,  to 
keep  off  competition,  leaving  all  the  rest  of  the  country  open  to  other 
roads.  The  substitute  bill  which  I  propose  contains  the  names  of  some 
of  these  citizens,  and  with  whom  other  solid  men  will  deem  it  a  privilege 
to  be  associated  —  not  that  all  will  be  expected  to  be  millionnaires,  but 
only  good  for  what  they  promise ;  for  it  is  not  intended  that  straw  men 


THE    GREAT    WEST.  359 


or  wind  men  shall  get  control  of  this  undertaking.  The  consent  of  those 
in  the  bill  will  be  necessary  to  the  admission  of  every  new  associate;  but 
after  the  act  shall  be  accepted,  books  of  subscription  are  to  be  opened  in 
every  state  of  the  Union,  and  the  stock  divided  into  convenient  snares,  to 
suit  short  as  well  as  long  purses. 

Congress  has  ordered  surveys  of  routes  :  they  are  not  ready  ;  but  that 
is  no  impediment  to  the  adoption  of  my  substitute,  which  fixes  no  route, 
but  leaves  it  to  the  company  to  choose  their  own  ;  and  no  company,  using 
their  own  money,  will  act  upon  any  surveys  but  their  own.  Such  a  com- 
pany will  look  before  it  leaps  ;^and  if  it  did  not,  it  would  not  leap  long. 
It  will  send  out  its  .own  surveyors  — practical  engineers  and  road  makers 

—  to  report  upon  every  mile  of  the  way.  and  under  every  aspect  of  cost 
and  feasibility.     To  such  a   company  the  government  surveys  are  not 
wanted,  even  if  ready,  and  made  properly,  in  winter  as  well  as  summer; 
and,  in  fact,  they  were  not  intended  for  a  company,  but  for  Congress  — 
intended  -to  enable  Congress  to  fix  the  route  itself — a  consummation 
which  it  is  now  found  to  be  impossible  to  attain.     I  would  have  preferred 
that  Congress  should  have  made  the  road,  as  a  national  work,  on  a  scale 
commensurate  to  its  grandeur,  and  let  out  the  use  of  it  to  companies, 
who  would  fetch  and  carry  on  the  best  terms  for  the  people  and  the  gov- 
ernment.    But  that  hope  has  vanished,  and  the  organization  of  Kanzas 
having  opened  up  the  country  to  settlement,  and  placed  it  under  law,  and 
carried  it  into  conjurfetion  with  Utah  and  New  Mexico,  a  private  com- 
pany has  become  the  resource  and  the  preference.     I  embrace  it  as  such, 
utterly  scouting  all  plans  for  making  private  roads  at  national  expense  — 
of  paving  for  the  use  of  roads  built  with  our  land  and  money  —  of  bar- 
gaining with  corporators  or  individuals  for  the  use  of  what  we  give  them 

—  a  species  of  bargaining  in  which  my  observation  informs  me  that  the 
government  gets  about  as  badly  cheated  as  Moses  Primrose  was  when  he 
sold  the  colt  which  had  been  in  the  family  nine  years;  and  as  much  worse 
as  his  father  was  when  he  undertook  to  help  out  the  matter  by  selling 
Blackberry.     I  presume  every  member  knows  how  that  was  :  for  I  would 
be  sorry  to  suppose  that  any  one,  possessed  of  the  English  language,  had 
lived  to"  man's  estate  without  enjoying  the  luxury  of  reading  the  Vicar  of 
"Wakefield.     For  my  part.  I   have  been  reading  it  since  I  was  five  years 
old,  and  with  augmented  enjoyment  every  time,  and  especially  since  they 
have  got  to  putting  pictures  in  it,  and  above  all,  that  picture  of  Moses  sell- 
ing the  colt  for  a  gross  of  green  spectacles  with  silver  rims  and  shagreen 
cases;  a  picture  for  which  the  United  States  sit  every  time  Congress 
undertakes  to  make  a  bargain  for  the  public.     I  eschew  al!  such  barg-tins. 
and  all  private  roads  made  at  public  expense,  but  am  willing  to  have  as 
many  as  any  one  pleases  upon  the  same  terms  as  contained  in  my  substi- 
tute —  and  there  will  be  room  for  several  such  :  hut  I  do  not  think  another 
will  be  built  in  our  day. 

I  prefer  the  central  route  ;  the  administration  eschews  that  route,  and 
lays  out  its  strength  in  favor  of  frontier  routes,  by  Canada  and  Mexico. 
It  sent  a  surveying  party  on  the  central,  but  only  to  go  a  part  of  the  way 
and  turn  round  —  leaving  the  essential  section  between  the  Little  Salt 
Lake  and  the  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin  unexamincd.  Mr.  Fremont 
supplied  that  omission  last  winter,  exploring  a  new  and  direct  route 
between  those  points,  and  through  the  Sierra  Nevada  —  completing  all 
that  was  wanting  in  that  quarter.  This  new  route  cut  off  the  elbow  to  the 


360        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 


south-west  made  by  the  old  Los  Angeles  trail,  avoided  the  desert  which 
it  crossed,  and  left  far  to  the  south  those  excitable  sand  fields,  in  which 
no  number  of  horses  can  leave  a  track  —  in  which  what  is  a  hillock  to- 
day is  a  hole  in  the  ground  to-morrow  —  where,  under  a  gentle  breeze, 
the  sands  creep  like  an  army  of  insects  —  where  the  traveller  who  lies 
down  to  sleep  during  the  night  in  a  light  wind  must  rise  and  shake  him- 
self often  to  avoid  being  buried  in  the  sand;  and  where,  during  a  high 
wind,  the  air  is  filled  with  a  driving  tempest  of  silicious  particles,  very 
cutting  to  the  skin  and  eyes,  very  suffocating  to  the  throat,  very  danger- 
ous to  men  who  are  not  tall  and  swift  —  where  men  and  animals  fly  for 
their  lives  when  they  feel  the  wind  rising,  and  where  this  administration 
would  carry  the  road.  Fremont's  new  discovery  avoided  all  that,  but 
without  conciliating  our  administration.  Frontier  and  foreign  routes 
monopolize  their  affection  and  engross  their  cares,  involving,  in  my 
opinion,  at  least  in  one  instance,  a  misapplication  of  the  appropriation 
for  the  survey  of  routes.  I  allude  to  the  Puget  Sound  route,  skirting  the 
British  line  all  the  way,  going  where  nobody,  travels,  where  nobody 
lives,  and  where  nobody  can  now  want  a  road  except  the  British  fur 
company,  and  a  certain  chartered  company,  of  which  Mr.  Robert  J. 
Walker'and  Mr.  James  Duane  Doty  are  the  heads,  and  which  route  the 
debates  in  Congress  show  was  not  within  the  contemplation  of  the  law 
when  the  appropriation  was  made.  1  nominated  it  a  British  road  from 
the  time  the  survey  was  ordered,  but  did  not  expect  to  have  any  other  evi- 
dence of  it  than  what  the  case  itself  afforded ;  but  I  now  have  other  evi- 
dence, and  produce  it.  Here  it  is  !  (  holding  up  a  document,)  and  I  pro- 
ceed to  read  from  it ;  and,  first,  of  the  title,  which  runs  thus  :  — 

"  CANADA.  1st  session,  5th  Parliament,  18th  Victoria,  1854.  Petition  of  the  Hon. 
Augustus  N.  Morin,  and  others,  praying  for  a  charter  by  the  name  of  the  '  Northern 
Pacific  Railway  Company,'  Ac.,  &c.  Ordered  by  the  Legislative  Assembly  to  be  printed, 
November  30,  1854.  Presented  by  the  Hon.  Mr.  Young,  Quebec :  Printed  by  Lovell  & 
Lamoreux,  Mountain  Street.  Reprinted  by  Ira  Berry,  Portland,  Maine." 

I  give  the  whole  title,  but  only  a  part  of  the  contents,  beginning  at  page 
4,  thus:  — 

"  From  information  furnished  by  the  report  of  his  excellency  Governor  Stevens,  we  en- 
tertain no  doubt,  not  only  that  a  practicable  route  exists  in  this  direction,  from  the  head  of 
Lake  Superior  to  Puget's  Sound,  and  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  River,  but  that  this  is  by 
far  the  best,  if  not  the  only  possible,  route  for  a  railway  to  the  Pacific,  north  of  El  Paso, 
near  the  thirty-second  parallel  of  north  latitude.  It  is  also  believed  that,  after  crossing  the 
Rocky  Mountain  summit,  a  favorable  and  direct  route  may  be  found  to  San  Francisco. 
Assuming  the  correctness  of  the  foregoing  propositions,  it  will  be  perceived  at  a  glanco 
that  at  some  point  or  place  in  the  valley  of  the  Missouri  River,  not  far  from  the  great 
bend  of  that  river,  there  will  be  found  a  focal  point  to  which  all  the  railways  of  the 
continent,  east  of  the  Kooky  Mountains,  reaching  westward  towards  the  Pacific,  will 
naturally  converge,  as  to  a  common  point  of  junction  and  intersection." 

Thus  it  was  Governor  Stevens's  survey 0vhich  put  this  Canadian  com- 
pany on  the  scent  of  a  North  Pacific  Railway,  by  the  head  of  Lake  Supe- 
rior, to  Puget's  Sound  :  and,  as  the  administration  sent  this  governor  on 
that  survey,  ergo  the'  administration  put  this  company  on  that  scent. 
All  that  is  clear  enough.  We  see  where  the  impulsion  comes  from. 
But  not  quite  so  visible  the  source  of  the  next  proposition,  which  outlaws 
all  the  country  for  a  road  north  of  El  Paso,  in  latitude  32°,  clear  out  to 
the  Puget  Sound  route,  in  (near)  latitude  49°.  They  do  not  tell  where 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  361 

they  get  that  information,  which  nullifies  17  degrees  of  latitude  for  a 
road,  including  the  only  latitudes  on  which  people  travel  voluntarily, 
and  over  which  some  10,000,  20.000,  50,000  people  travel  every  year, 
with  flocks  and  herds,  and  all  sorts  of  vehicles,  from  a  road  wagon  to  a 
wheelbarrow.  The  source  of  this  information  is  invisible;  but  it  cor- 
responds with  official  notions  here,  and  also  with  the  hill  under  consid- 
eration, as  it  stood  when  first  reported,  providing  for  one  road  south  of 
37°  and  one  north  of  47°,  leaving  the  10  intermediate  degrees,  and 
which  cover  all  the  voluntary  travelling,  to  remain  destitute  of  a  federal 
road.  There  is,  however,  consolation  in  the  declaration  that  it  is  "  be- 
lieved "  that  there  is  favorable  ground  for  a  direct  road  to  San  Francisco 
after  crossing  the  mountains  on  the  Puget  Sound  line  ;  and  also  in  the 
prospect  of  finding  a  focal  point  at  the  north  bend  of  the  Missouri,  in 
north  latitude  near  49°,.and  west  longitude  105°  from  London,  where 
all  the  railroads  of  the  continent  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  can  have 
their  conjunction  and  intersection. 

We  proceed  to  another  reading  at  page  5,  thus  :  — 

"  From  this  point  eastward,  along  the  southern  shore  of  Lake  Superior,  to  the  Sault 
St.  Mary,  crossing  the  river  at  that  point,  and  continuing  along  the  northern  shore  of 
Lake  Huron,  till  the  valley  of  the  Ottaway  is  reached,  it  is  believed  that  an  uninter- 
rupted, practicable,  and  favorable  route  for  a  railway  may  be  found  ;  from  the  bend  of 
the  Missouri  to  Montreal:  which  is  already  connected  by  railway  with  the  Atlantic 
Ocean  at  Portland." 

Montreal !  That  is  to  be  the  eastern  terminus  of  this  American- 
British  road,  which  is  to  run  half  way  on  one  side  of  49°,  and  half  way 
on  tbe  other,  and  which  is  to -have  a  branch  to  the  Atlantic  Ocean  at 
Portland,  in  Maine.  Now,  leaving  out  all  other  considerations,  I  would 
wish  to  know  who  is  to  have  the  use  of  this  road  in  the  case  of  war  with 
Great  Britain — whether  it  is  to  be  used  in  common,  to  carry  on  hos- 
tilities against  each  other,  or  whether  each  nation  is  to  be  confined  to 
its  own  half,  and  neither  be  so  naughty  as  to  interrupt  the  other.  That 
is  a  question  for  West  Point  to  answer !  Let  us  read  on,  same  page  :  — 

"We  deem  it  quite  unnecessary  in  this  connection  to  enter  into  any  argument  show- 
ing the  value  or  the  necessity  of  such  an  undertaking  as  a  railway  to  the  Pacific.  It 
is  enough  to  justify  us  in  a  movement  in  this  direction  to  know  that  similar  efforts 
are  now  making  at  several  points  in  other  parts  of  the  United  States,  for  which  char- 
ters have  been  granted,  and  considerable  progress  made  to  carry  them  into  eft'ect." 

That  is  the  inducement  to  this  Northern  Pacific  Atlantic  Railway  — 
other  chartered  companies,  in  other  parts  of  the  United  States,  making 
efforts  in  favor  of  similar  roads,  and  considerable  progress  made  in  carry- 
ing them  into  effect.  I  know  but  one  such  chartered  company,  and  that 
is  twin  sister  to  the  British  route,  and  as  far  to  the  south  as  the  other  is 
to  the  north,  and  of  which  Robert  J.  Walker,  Samuel  Jaudon.  and 
Thomas  Butler  King  are  leading  corporators.  Nor  do  I  know  of  any 
progress  they  have  made,  except  in  the  10,000,OOJ  purchase  of  a  tract 
for  them  by  the  United  States.  Nor  do  I  know  of  any  progress  they 
can  make,  "unless  they  get  hold  of  Texas  land  or  United  States  land. 
Still  the  notice  is  kind,  and  shows  that  the  British  road  has  a  fellow- 
feeling  and  a  sympathy  for  the  Santa  Anna  road.  One  other  reading, 
and  we  finish  :  — 

"  That  magnificent  domain  of  the  United  States,  drained  by  the  head  waters  of  th« 

31 


362        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 


Mississippi,  the  Missouri,  and  the  Red  River  of  the  north,  lying  north  of  the  44th  paral- 
lel of  latitude,  would  li ud  in  this  route  its  easiest  and  most  direct  outlet  to  the  Atlantic 
sea  shore.  From  Fort  Maiidan,  or  from  the  great  bend  of  the  Missouri,  to  the  Atlantic 
Ocean  at  Portland,  the  distance  would  he  less,  by  hundreds  of  miles,  than  by  following 
the  Missouri  and  Mississippi  Rivers  to  their  common  mouth  at  New  Orleans.  If  the 
waters  of  these  mighty  rivers  could  be  turned  into  Lake  Superior,  and  be  at  the  same 
time  navigable  for  steamboats,  so  that  the  magnih'cent  chain  of  inland  seas  which  now 
finds  outlet  through  the  St.  Lawrence,  extended,  unbroken,  westward  to  the  bas^s  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  we  might  form  some  idea  of  the  value  and  importance,  to  all  who 
dwell  within  the  St.  Lawrence  basin,  of  the  plan  herein  proposed.  The  extension  of 
such  a  line  of  railway  across  the  continent,  over  the  route  proposed,  would,  as  we  be- 
lieve, confer  upon  Cunalaand  the  Northern  States  of  the  Union  a  degree  of  commercial 
and  political  importance  beyond  our  present  power  to  describe,  or  even  to  conceive/' 

Certainly  this  looks  like  annexing  a  slip  of  our  Union  to  Canada  five 
degrees  wide,  for  the  political  and  commercial  benefit  of  the  aforesaid 
Canada  and  the  Northern  States.  Not  only  make  a  British  road,  but 
turn  our  great  rivers  into  Queen  Victoria's  dominions  —  a  thing  more 
practical  than  speculative,  as  may  be  seen  by  observing  the  equilibrium 
of  the  British  and  American  waters  above  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  and 
at  the  turning  point  in  the  great  bend  of  the  Missouri.  Certainly  it 
would  be  a  relief  to  the  Missouri  arid  Mississippi  to  be  so  turned,  as 
they  could  rest  one  half  the  year  in  the  torpidity  of  congelation  ;  whereas, 
if  they  continue  going  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  they  will  have  no  such 
chance  of  rest,  arid  must  remain  running  all  the  time.  But  whence  this 
conception,  so  new  and  so  striking  ?  It  smells  of  science  —  West  Point 
science  ;  but  the  administration  must  stand  father  for  it,  as  the  diversion 
of  the  rivers  is  certainly  a  derivation  from  the  road;  and  the  road  is  a 
derivation  from  the  administration ;  ergo  the  administration  is  father, 
or,  at  all  events,  grandfather,  to  this  proposed  alienation  of  our  rivers  — 
pride  and  glory  of  the  Great  West.  This  is  too  bad.  It  was  bad  enough 
to  sell  the  snag-boats  and  render  impossible  any  speedy  removal  of  the 
snags,  even  under  an  act  confined  to  great  rivers  —  to  those  which  are 
kings  of  floods  ;  but  to  give  them  to  the  British,  that' is  too  bad  !  and 
we  of  the  west  must  insist  on  keeping  them,  snags  and  all,  and  trust  to 
swimming  and  luck  to  save  lives  when  a  hole  is  knocked  in  the  bottom 
of  the  boat,  and  the  boat  itself  descends  to  the  bottom  of  the  river. 

Then  follow  the  signatures,  18  in  number,  and  divided  like  a  jury, 
de  medietate  linguae,  to  try  a  foreigner  for  his  life,  half  and  half —  the  Ca- 
nadians on  one  side  and  the  Americans  on  the  other,  thus :  — 

A.   N.   MACXAB,   M.  P.   P.,  JOHN   A.  POOR, 

A.  N.   MOUIN,   M.   P.   P.,  ST.   JOHN   SMITH, 

JACOB  DEWITT,   M.  P.   P.,  J.   H.   BROWN, 

A.  T.  GALT,  M.   P.  P.,  ELIPHALET  GREELY, 

HENRY   SMITH,   M.   P.  P.,  CHARLES  Q.  CLAPP, 

J.  CHABOT,   M.   P.   P.,  WILLIAM   W.  THOMAS, 

JOHN   YOUNG,   M.   P.  P.,  J.   M.  WOOD, 

JOHN  EGAN,  M.  P.  P..  A.   W.   H.  CLAPP, 

IRA  GOULD.  JOHN   MUSSEY. 

I  dismiss  this  British  route,  with  the  remark  that  the  execution  of  the 
survey  was  in  keeping  with  the  misapplication  of  the  funds  which  made 
it  —  as  abortive  and  costly  as  the  object  itself  was  useless  and  anti- 
national. 

The  Mexican  route  is  the  next  great  favorite  of  this  administration ; 
and  this  they  have  purchased  from  Santa  Anna  for  10,000,000  of  federal 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  363 


dollars,  when  Mr.  Robert  J.  Walker  publishes  that  he  was  purchasing 
the  same  from  the  same  character  for  $6500  in  money  and  half  a  million 
in  Texas  railroad  stock.  This  route  passes  through  Chihuahua  and  So- 
nora,  and  may  well  be  called  the  Mexican  road,  and  is  intended  to  go 
to  New  San  Diego,  which  is  south  of  Old  San  Diego,  in  the  south-west 
corner  of  California,  and  where  a  crew  of  official  speculators  have  laid 
off  a  town,  and  built  government  houses,  —  by  what  authority  I  know 
not,  —  and  where,  reaching  the  Pacific  500  miles  short  of  San  Francisco, 
it  is  intended  there  shall  be  a  virtual,  if  not  an  actual  termination  of  the 
road,  and  San  Francisco  superseded  by  New  San  Diego  as  the  commer- 
cial emporium  of  the  American  Pacific  coast.  Jf  things  have  not  mis- 
carried, this  road  was  to  fall  into  the  hands  of  the  company,  the  leading 
member  of  which  (Mr.  Robert  J.  Walker)  is  also  in  the  charter  for  the 
British  road,  and  whose  brother-in-law  (Mr.  Emory,  of  the  Topograph- 
ical Corps)  is  at  the  head  of  the  survey  department  of  these  routes,  and 
is  out  at  present  on  the  Mexican  line,  fixing  the  boundary  for  the  new 
route  through  Sonora  and  Chihuahua. 

1  assume  this  Mexican  route  to  be  the  favorite  of  the  administration, 
and  that  the  surveys  on  the  Central  route,  on  the  New  Mexico  route, 
and  the  Gila  route,  were  only  "  tubs  to  the  whale,"  to  amuse -the  spout- 
ing fish,  while  they  were  preparing  for  the  real  game :  and  my  reason 
for  that  assumption  is  this — that  they  bought  it  pending  these  surveys! 
which  must  stand  for  proof  that  they  rejected  the  other  routes,  and 
meant  to  have  this,  cost  what  it  might,  and  actually  contracted  for  it  at 
$20,000,000,  which  the  Senate  reduced  to  $10,000.000,  thus  balancing  the 
British  road  in  the  north  by  a  Mexican  one  in  the  south,  forcing  travel 
to  go  where  no  man  goes  voluntarily,  and  outlawing  the  whole  interme- 
diate country  where  alone  all  the  travelling  is. 

Mr.  Chairman,  in  a  speech  on  this  subject  at  the  last  session,  I  stated 
that  it  was  said  that  this  Mr.  Emory  was  interested  '•  in  "  the  city  of 
New  San  Diego.  He  contradicted  the  statement  promptly,  rudely,  and 
truly.  My  informant  immediately  apprised  me  that  I  had  committed  a 
mistake  in  using  the  preposition  "  in  ;  "  that  the  gentleman's  interest  was 
not  '•  in  "  the  city,  but  outside  of  it ;  not  in  city  lots,  but  in  suburban 
land.  And  now,  being  thus  corrected,  I  seize  the  first  suitable  occasion 
to  make  the  amends,  and  to  secure  to  this  official  all  the  difference  that 
can  be  detected  between  an  Interest  inside  and  outside  of  this  intended 
grand  emporium  of  the  Pacific  trade. 

Sir,  I  make  no  comparison  of  routes.  I  am  willing  to  vote  to  a  pri- 
vate company,  which  will  make  this  Mexican  road  at  its  own  expense, 
the  same  facilities  which  I  ask  for  the  company  for  which  my  substitute 
bill  provides  ;  but  am  not  willing  to  make  a  national  road  outside  of  the 
nation ;  not  willing  to  make  a  private  road  at  public  expense ;  not 
willing  to  give  to  any  company  the  30  miles  wide  alternate  sections,  the 
$600  a  mile  mail  pay,  and  the  every  20  mile  military  posts  which  this 
bill  proposes  ;  and  that,  while  going  a  thousand  miles  round,  and  upon 
soil  not  yet  naturalized,  and  through  states  as  well  as  territories,  and  across 
deserts  in  which  a  wolf  could  not  make  his  living;  over  arid  plains  in 
which  a  poisoned  rat  could  not  get  a  drink  of  water ;  and  through  am- 
bulatory sands  in  which  the  army  of  Xerxes  could  not  leave  a  track. 

There  are  some  things  too  light  for  reason,  too  grave  for  ridicule,  too 
mischievous  for  the  contempt  of  silence ;  and  into  that  category  I  put  ail 


364        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

these  exterritorial  roads  which  seek  foreign  soil,  which  go  where  nobody 
lives,  which  would  require  a  legionary  police  to  protect  in  time  of  peace, 
and  armies  to  protect  in  time  of  war,  and  which  would  be  of  no  use  to 
our  United  States  either  in  peace  or  war.  Yet  these  outside  highways 
seem  to  be  the  cherished  objects  of  this  administration,  and  of  all  the 
"  scientific  corps  "  also.  It  is  not  only  the  British  road  by  Canada,  and  the 
Mexican  road  by  Chihuahua  and  Sonora,  which  they  cherish,  but  worse 
still ;  a  foreign  route  by  land  and  water  —  the  Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec, 
at  the  price  of  money  and  diplomacy  ;  at  the  cost  of  quarrels  add  even 
war  with  Mexico  for  a  Sloo  or  Garay  ;  at  the  cost  of  a  double  ocean 
voyage,  and  a  land  transit  under  a  foreign  flag;  at  the  cost  of  a  conquer- 
ing navy  to  protect  it.  and  a  circuit  of  5000  miles  round.  The  bare  re- 
cital of  such  folly  is  the  only  chastisement  it  will  endure  ;  and  even  that 
much  it  would  be  ridiculous  to  give,  if  the  authors  of  such  insanity  were 
not  now  in  power,  wielding  the  influences  of  legislation,  diplomacy, 
patronage,  and  surveys,  in  promotion  of  their  object.  Surely  the  ten- 
dencies of  this  administration  are  most  centrifugal. 

I  make  no  comparison  of  routes,  but  vindicate  the  one  I  prefer  from 
erroneous  imputations,  and  invite  rigorous  examination  into  its  charac- 
ter. The  belt  of  country,  about  4  degrees  wide,  extending  from  Missouri 
to  California,  and  of  which  the  parallels  38  and  39  would  be  about  the 
centre,  this  belt  would  be  the  region  for  the  road ;  and  of  this  region,  its 
physical  geography  and  adaptation  to  settlement,  and  to  the  construc- 
tion of  the  road,  it  is  my  intention  to  speak,  and  to  publish,  as  part  of 
this  speech,  something  of  what  I  have  spoken  elsewhere,  but  do  not  now 
repeat,  because  unnecessary  here,  but  essential  to  the  full  exposition  of 
the  subject  in  the  prepared  and  published  speech. 

I  have  paid  some  attention  to  this  geography,  induced  by  a  loral  po- 
sition and  some  turn  for  geographical  inquiry  ;  and,  in  a  period  of  more 
than  30  years,  have  collected  whatever  information  was  to  be  obtained 
from  the'reading  of  books,  the  reports  of  travellers,  and  the  conver.-ation  of 
hunters  and  traders,  and  all  with  a  view,  to  a  practical  application.  I  have 
studied  the  country  with  a  viev^to  results,  and  feel  authorized  to  believe, 
from  all  that  I  have  learned,  that  this  vast  region  is  capable  of  sustaining 
populous  communities,  and  exalting  them  to  wealth  and  power ;  that 
the  line  of  great  states  which  now  stretch  half  way  across  our  continent 
in  the  same  latitudes  —  Pennsylvania,  Ohio,  Indiana,  Illinois.  Missouri  — 
may  be  matched  by  an  equal  number  of  states,  equally  great,  between 
Missouri  and  California ;  and  that  the  country  is  perfectly  adapted  to 
the  construction  of  a  railroad,  and  all  sorts  of  roads,  traversable  in  all 
seasons.  This  is  my  opinion,  and  I  proceed  to  verify  it:  and  first,  of 
the  five  states,  their  diagrams  and  relative  positions;  and  then  their 
capabilities. 

The  present  Territory  of  Kanzas,  extending  700  miles  in  length,  upon 
200  in  breadth,  and  containing  above  100,000  square  miles,  would  form, 
two  states  of  above  50,000  square  miles  each.  A  section  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  embracing  the  Three  Parks,  and  the  head  waters  of  the 
South  Platte,  the  Arkansas,  Del  Norte,  and  the  eastern  branches  of  the 
Great  Colorado  of  the  West,  would  form  another  state  larger — in  the 
opinion  of  Fremont — than  all  the  Swiss  cantons  put  together,  and  pre 
sentirig  every  thing  grand  and  beautiful  that  is  to  be  found  in  Switzer- 
land, without  its  drawback  of  avalanches  and  glaciers.  The  valley  of 


THE   (JREAT   WEST.  365 


the  Upper  Colorado,  from  the  western  base  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  to 
the  eastern  base  of  the  Wahsatch  and  Anterria  ranges,  200  miles  wide, 
by  200  long,  and  now  a  part  of  Utah,  might  form  the  fourth  ;  and  the 
remainder  of  Utah,  from  the  Wahsatch  to  California,  would  form  the 
fifth,  of  which  the  part  this  way,  covering  the  Santa  Clara  meadows, 
and  Wahsatch  and  Anterria  ranges,  would  be  the  brightest  part.  Here, 
then,  are  five  diagrams  of  territory,  sufficient  in  extent,  as  any  map  will 
show,  to  form  five  states  of  the  first  magnitude.  That  much  is  demon- 
strated. Now  for  their  capabilities  to  sustain  populous  communities, 
and  their  adaptation  to  the  construction  of  a  railroad. 

We  begin  with  the  Territory  of  Kan/.as,  and  find  its  length  above 
three  times  its  breadth,  and  naturally  divisible  into  two  states  by  a  north 
and  south  line,  half  way  to  the  mountains.  The  eastern  half  is  beginning 
to  be  known  from  the  reports  of  emigrants  and  explorers ;  but  to  under- 
stand its  whole  interior,  the  general  outline  of  the  whole  territory  must 
first  be  traced,  in  the  mind's  eye  or  upon  a  map.  Maps  are  not  convenient 
in  so  large  an  assemblage  ;  so  the  mind's  eye  must  be  put  in  requisition, 
and  made  to  follow  the  lines  as  indicated,  thus  :  beginning  on  the  west- 
ern boundary  of  Missouri,  in  the  latitude  of  37°,  and  following  that 
parallel  west  to  the  eastern  boundary  of  New  Mexico  ;  then  a  deflection  of 
one  degree  north  to  the  parallel  of  38° ;  and  on  that  parallel  to  the  sum- 
mit of  the  Rocky  Mountains ;  then  northwardly  along  that  summit  to 
the  parallel  of  40° ;  then  east  with  that  parallel  to  the  Missouri  line  ;  and 
south  with  that  line  to  the  beginning.  This  is  the  outline  ;  now  for  the 
interior ;  and  for  the  sake  of  distinctness,  we  will  examine  that  by  sec- 
tions, conformable  to  the  natural  divisions  of  the  country. 

I.  We  commence  with  the  Kanzas  River,  on  the  north  side  of  the  terri- 
tory, and  its  four  long  forks  —  the  Smoky  Hill,  the  Saline.  Solomon's,  and 
the  Republican ;  of  which  the  Smoky  Hill  is  the  most  considerable,  and 
in  the  best  place  for  the  advantage  of  the  territory.  All  these  forks  flow 
in  the  right  direction,  — •  from  west  to  east,  —  and  are  beautifully  parallel 
to  each  other,  without  mountains  or  ridges  between  to  interrupt  their  com- 
munications, and  making,  after  their  junction,  near  200  miles  of  steamboat 
navigation  before  their  united  waters  reach  the  great  Missouri  River. 
All  the  land  drained  by  these  streams  constitute  the  valley  of  Kanzas, 
if  the  term  valley  can  be  applied  to  a  region  which  has  but  little  per- 
ceptible depression  below  the  general  level  of  the  country.  We  will 
consider  the  term  applicable  to  all  the  territory  drained  by  all  the  Kanzas 
forks  and  all  their  tributaries.  One  general  description  applies  to  the 
•whole  —  the  soil  rich  like  Egypt,  and  tempting  as  Egypt  would  be  if 
raised  above  the  slimy  flood,  waved  into  gentle  undulations,  variegated 
with  groves  and  meadows,  sprinkled  with  springs,  coursed  by  streams, 
and  warmed  by  a  sun  Avhich  warms  without  burning,  and  blessed  with 
the  alternation  of  seasons  which  give  vigor  to  the  mind  and  body. 
Egypt  thus  raised  up  and  changed  might  stand  for  Kanzas ;  as  she  is, 
the  only  point  of  comparison  is  in  the  soil.  For  this  valley  is  high  and 
clean,  diversified  with  wood  and  prairie,  watered  by  springs  and  streams, 
grassy  and  flowery;  its  bosom  filled  with  stone  for  building,  coal  for 
fuel,  and  iron  for  the  home  supply  of  that  first  of  metals.  This  is  the 
Kanzas  of  the  northern,  or  Kanzas  River  side,  where  Fremont  says  — 
and  he  has  a  right  to  know  —  a  continuous  cornfield  200  miles  in  length 
might  be  made,  so  rich  and  level  is  the  country.  But  of  this  part  it  is 

31* 


366        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 


not  necessary  to  "say  much,  as  the  crowds  of  emigrants  are  directing  them- 
*  selves  upon  it,  and  vying  with  each  other  in  the  glowing  descriptions 
which  they  give  of  its  beauty,  salubrity,  and  fertility. 

I  turn  to  the  south  side  of  the  territory,  of  which  little  has  been  said, 
and  much  is  to  be  told,  and  all  profitable  to  be  known.  In  the  first  place, 
this  South  side  includes  the  whole  body  of  the  Arkansas  River,  from  near 
the  Missouri  line  to  its  headmost  spring  in  the  Rocky  Mountains  —  a 
length  of  above  seven  hundred  miles  on  a  straight  line,  and  near  double 
that  length  in  the  meanders  of  the  stream.  This  gives  to  the  territory  a 
second  large  river,  and  in  the  right  place,  and  flowing  in  the  right  direc- 
tion, and  parallel  to  the  other,  as  if  its  twin  sister,  and  so  near  together  as 
to  be  seldom  more  than  a  degree,  and  sometimes  not  half  a  degree,  from 
each  other,  and  no  mountains  or  high  grounds  between  them.  This,  of 
itself,  is  a  great  advantage  to  the  territory,  for  the  Arkansas,  like  all  rivers 
in  the  prairie  country,  brings  fertile  borders,  and  groves  of  wood,  and  rich 
grass,  and  makes  an  attractive  line  for  settlement  and  travel.  In  the  next 
place.it  gives  a  succession  of  tributaries  on  each  side  —  each  giving 
lines  of  wood  and  water  —  the  only  things  wanted  for  settlement  and  cul- 
tivation. Some  of  these  tributaries  are  of  great  length,  and  drain  wide 
areas  —  as  the  Neosho.  drawing  its  expanded  head  waters  from  the  centre 
of  the  territory,  two  hundred  miles  long,  and  becoming  navigable  before 
it  reaches  the  Arkansas  River.  The  Verdigris  is  but  little  less  than  the 
Neosho,  and  next  above  it,  and  of  the  same  characteristics,  and  both 
adapted  to  cultivation  and  pasturage.  On  the  opposite  side,  coming  in 
from  the  south,  is  the  Salt  Fork  of  the  Arkansas,  the  lower  part  of  it 
within  the  limits  of  Kanzas,  with  its  salt  plains  and  rock  salt,  impregnating 
the  river,  and  rendering  its  waters  undrinkable  in  the  dry  season.  I  have 
seen  parcels  of  this  rock  salt  at  St.  Louis,  cut  off  with  hatchets  by  the 
Indians,  and  of  the  blown  salt,  swept  up  by  the  squaws  with  turkey-wing 
fans  when  the  autumnal  sun  had  evaporated  the  briny  waters  of  the  saline 
marshes  ->-  all  so  useless  now  in  the  hands  of  the  Indians,  and  to  become 
so  valuable  in  the  hands  of  the  whites.  Ascending  the  river,  there  is  a 
continued  succession  of  affluents  from  each  side,  all  exercising  their  fertil- 
izing powers  upon  bordering  lines  of  wood,  soil,  and  grass,  and  becoming 
better  to  the  very  base  of  the  mountains.  So  that  the  river  advantages 
on  the  north  side  of  the  territory  are  rivalled  by  similar  advantages  on  the 
south  side. 

I  have  spoken  of  the  two  sides  of  the  territory ;  now  for  the  centre  — 
and  that  is  soon  despatched  ;  an  expanded  prairie,  level  to  the  view,  rich 
in  soil,  scant  (but  not  destitute)  of  water,  green  with  grass,  and  enlivened 
in  the  proper  season  with  myriads  of  buffaloes,  spreads  inimitably  before 
the  eyes  of  the  traveller.  Some  springs,  many  small  streams,  numerous 
pools,  peculiar  to  these  plains,  (reservoirs  of  the  rains,)  invaluable  for 
stock,  furnish  the  present  supply,  to  be  helped  out  by  wells  as  soon  as 
settled.  The  annual,  autumnal,  devastating  fires  being  stopped,  the  in- 
digenous forest  growth  will  immediately  come  forth,  accompanied  by  the 
exotics  which  the  thrifty  farmer  will  lose  no  time  to  introduce.  Coal  will 
furnish  fuel ;  so  that  the  whole  central  plain  will  receive  settlers  from  the 
beginning,  and  especially  on  the  line  of  road  actually  travelled,  and  where 
the  railroad  may  be  expected  to  be.  In  the  mean  time  the  settler  has  an 
attraction* —  superior  with  many,  and  profitable  as  well  as  pleasant  in 
itself —  to  draw  him  into  this  vast  plain.  It  is  the  pastoral  pursuit ;  for 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  367 


this  is  the  bucolic  region  of  our  America  —  now  the  resort  of  wild  ani- 
mals, and  soon  to  become  the  home  of  the  domestic.  A  short,  sweet 
grass,  equally  nutritious  in  the  green  or  dried  state,  (for  it  dries  of  itself 
on  the  ground,)  covers  the  face  of  the  earth,  inviting  all  ruminating  animals 
to  take  their  food  upon  it,  without  Treasure  and  without  stint;  a  great 
pastoral  region,  in  which  the  ox  will  not  know  his  master's  erit>,  nor  the 
ass  the  hand  that  feedeth  him,  but  in  which  the  dumb,  unconscious  beast, 
without  knowing  it,  will  feel  the  bounty  of  the  hand  which  is  the  Giver  of 
ail  good. 

This  is  the  description  of  the  first  Kanzas ; —  the  one  which  will  go  half 
way  to  the  mountains  —  equal  in  territorial  extent  to  the  first  class  states, 
exceeded  in  productive  capacity  by  none  —  and  soon  to  become  one  of  the 
great  states  of  the  Union.  I  will  call  it  East  Kanzas. 

II.  The  second  state  would  occupy  the  remainder  of  the  territory  to  the 
base  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and.  like  the  first  half,  will  have  the  natural 
di-vision  into  three  parts,  and  with  the  same  characteristics,  but  with  a 
reversal  of  their  localities.  The  Arkansas  River  side  will  be  far  the  most 
valuable,  both  intrinsically  and  in  its  locality;  but  the  Kanzas  side  will 
still  have  its  value  and  attraction.  Fremont  says  of  it,  '•  The  soil  of  all 
this  country  (Upper  Kanzas  and  base  of  the  mountains)  is  excellent,  ad- 
mirably adapted  to  agricultural  purposes,  and  would  support  a  large 
agricultural  and  pastoral  population."  He  says  it  is  watered  by  many 
streams,  but  without  wood,  except  on  their  borders;  that  grass  abounds, 
and  among  its  varieties,  the  esparcette,  a  species  of  clover,  so  valuable  for 
the  pasturage  of  swine,  cultivated  for  that  purpose  in  Germany,  but  in- 
digenous in  all  this  base  of  the  mountains. 

But  the  valley  of  the  Upper  Arkansas  would  form  the  pride  and 
strength  of  the  upper  state  —  West  Kanzas,  as  I  will  call  it.  including, 
as  the  territory  does,  a  part  of  the  superb  valley  of  San  Luis,  and  the 
beautiful  Sah  watch,  which  forms  a  continuation  of  it,  and  which  leads  to 
the  famous  Coochatope  pass. 

Fremont  thus  speaks  of  this  upper  part  of  the  Arkansas,  as  seen  by  him 
in  his  various  expeditions,  and  especially  in  the  one  of  the  last  winter :  — 

"The  immediate  valley  of  the  Upper  Arkansas,  for  about  two  hundred  miles,  as  you 
approach  the  mountains,  is  continuously  well  adapted  to  settlements,  as  well  as  to  roads. 
Numerous  well-watered  and  fertile  valleys,  broad  and  level,  open  up  among  the  moun- 
tains, which  present  themselves  in  detached  blocks,  (outliers,)  gradually  closing  in 
around  the  heads  of  the  streams,  but  leaving  open  approaches  to  the  central  ridges. 
The  whole  of  the  inter-mountain  region  is  abundant  in  grasses,  wood,  coal,  and  fertile 
soil.  The  pueblos  above  Bent's  Fort  prove  it  to  be  well  adapted  to  the  grains  and  vege- 
tables common  to  the  latitude,  including  Indian  corn,  which  ripens  well,  and  to  the  sup- 
port of  healthy  stock,  which  increase  well,  and  take  care  of  themselves  summer  and 
winter." 

Of  the  climate  and  winter  season   in  this  elevated  region  he  thus 

s :  — 


"The  climate  is  mild  and  the  winters  short,  the  autumn  usually  having  its  full  length 
of  bright  open  weather,  without  snow,  which  in  winter  falls  rarelv  and  passes  otf 
quickly.  In  .this  belt  of  country  lying  along  the  mountains  the  snow  falls  more  early 
and  much  more  thinly  than  in  the  open  plains  to  the  ecistward ;  the  storms  congregate 
about  the  high  mountains,  and  leave  the  valleys  free.  In  the  beginning  of  December 
we  found  yet  no  snow  on  the  Huerfano  River,  and  were  informed  by  an  old  resident, 
then  engaged  in  establishing  a  farm  at  the  mouth  of  this  str  arn,  that  snow  seldom  fell 
there,  and  that  cattle  were  left  in  the  range  all  the  winter  through." 


368        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 


This  was  the  first  of  December.  Eight  days  later,  and  when  advanced 
a  hundred  miles  farther,  and  standing  in  the  Sandhill  Pass  of  the  Sierra 
Blanca,  which  looks  both  into  the  head  valleys  of  the  Del  Norte  and  of. 
the  Arkansas,  he  still  writes, — 

"  On  the  8th  of  December  we  found  this  whole  country  free  from  snow,  and  Daguerre 
views,  taken  at  tins  time,  show  the  grass  entirely  uncovered  in  the  passes." 

This  is  the  winter  view  of  this  country  and  its  climate,  and  certainly 
no  mountain  region  could  present  any  thing  more  desirable  for  man  or 
beast.  A  summer  view  of  it  is  given  by  Messrs.  Beal  £  Heap,  in  their 
central  route  journey  to  California,  in  1853,  thus  :  — 

"Upon  reaching  the  summit  of  the  butt's,  a  magnificent  and  extensive  panorama 
opened  to  our  vi^w.  The  horizon  was  bounded  to  the  north  by  Pike's  Peak  —  to  the 
west  and  northwest  by  the  Sierra  Mohada,  (Wet  Mountain,)  Sangre  de  Christo  Moun- 
tains, and  the  Spanish  Peaks;  to  the  south  and  east  extended  the  prairie  —  lost  in  the 
hazy  distance.  On  the  gently  undulating  plains,  reaching  to  the  foot  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  could  ba  traced,  by  their  lines  of  tiniler,  the  course  of  the  Arkansas  River 
and  its  %a:ious  tributaries  —  among  them  the  Huerfano,  (Orphan  River,)  e;  sily  distin- 
guished f.-om  the  remote  point  (nearly  due  west)  where  it  issued  from  the  Sierra  Blanca, 
to  its  junction  with  the  Arkansas,  except  at  short  intervals  where  it  passed  through 
canyons  in  the  plain.  Pike's  Peak  was  a  prominent  object  in  the  landscape,  its  head 
capped  with  eternal  snow,  soaring  high  above  all  the  neighboring  sumnu'ts.  The  river 
(Huerfano)  bottom  was  broad,  and  thickly  wooded  with  willows  and  cottonwood.  inter- 
laced with  wild  rose  and  grape  vines,  and  carpeted  with  soft  grass —  a  sylvan  paradise. 
The  scenery,  as  we  approached  the  country  between  the  Spanish  Peaks  and  the  Sierra 
Mohada,  was  picturesque  and  beautiful.  Mountains  towered  high  above  us,  the  sum- 
mits of  some  covered  with  snow,  (July,)  while  the  dense  forests  of  dark  pine.?  which 
clothed  their  sides  contrasted  well  with  the  glittering  white  at  the  top,  and  the  light 
green  of  the  soft  grass  at  their  base.  The  humidity  of  the  Sierra  Mohada  gives  great 
fertility  to  this  region ;  and  the  country  bordering  on  the  sides  of  the  mountains,  as 
well  as  the  valleys  in  their  recesses,  are  unequalled  in  loveliness  and  richness  of  vegeta- 
tion. To  the  settler  they  offer  every  inducement ;  and  I  have  no  doubt  in  a  few  years 
this  tract  of  country  will  vie  with  California  or  Australia  in  the  number  of  emigrants 
it  will  invite.  It  is  by  far  the  most  beautiful  part  of  New  Mexico,  (now  a  part  of  Kan- 
zas,)  and  a  remarkably  level  country  connects  it  with  the  western  part  of  the  Atlantic 
States.  As  soon  as  this  is  thrown  open  to  settlement,  a  continuous  line  of  farms  will  be 
established,  by  which  the  agricultural  and  mineral  wealth  of  the  country  will  be  de- 
veloped." 

Mr.  Charles  M'Clanahan,  a  Virginia  emigrant  to  California,  and  a 
large  dealer  in  stock  to  that  country,  writing  back  to  me  from  the  valley 
of  San  Luis  in  August.  1853.  says,  — 

"  On  this  route  almost  the  entire  way  may  be  settled,  as  all  the  land  from  Missouri  to 
Bent's  Fort  is  rich,  and  very  fertile,  equal  to  the  best  lands  of  Missouri  and  Illinois, 
and  no  land  can  beat  the  Sierra  Blanca  for  grass.  Even  to  the  very  summit  it  stands 
as  thick  as  the  best  meadows,  and  many  acres  would  mow  at  least  four  tons  to  the  acre. 
Then  comes  the  large  and  beautiful  valley  of  San  Luis,  said  to  be  one  of  the  most  fer- 
tile in  Isew  Mexico.  Indeed,  fine  land  is  upon  the  whole  route,  and  the  climate  is  such 
that  the  stock  can  live  out,  all  the  winter  upon  the  grass.  On  this  route  there  is  an 
abundance  of  grass  and  water,  so  much  so  that  stock  will  travel  and  keep  fat.  A  very 
large  majority  of  our  .sheep  are  as  fat  mutton  as  any  in  the  Philadelphia  or  Baltimore 
market;  and  a  very  large  number  of  Mr.  Barnweil's  cattle  are  fine  beef,  and  I  have 
never  Keen  any  stock,  after  travelling  so  far,  look  half  so  well." 

Mr.  Leroux.  in  his  published  letter  to  me,  describing,  among  other 
things,  the  valley  of  San  Luis,  which  lies  east  of  the  Coochatope  Pass,  and 
leads  to  it  through  the  Sahwatch  Valley,  and  which  valley  of  San  Luis  is 
now  partly  in  Kanzas,  says,  — 

"There  is  a  large  valley  to  the  east,  about  fifty  or  sixty  miles  wide,  and  near  one 
hundred  miles  long,  reaching  from  the  Coochatope  to  the  Taos  settlements  at  the  little 


THE    GREAT   WEST,  369 


Colorado.  The  Del  Norte  runs  through  this  valley,  which  is  the  widest  and  best  valley 
in  all  Now  Mexico,  and  can  hold  more  people  than  all  New  Mexico  besides.  It  is  all 
prairie  except  on  the  creeks,  and  on  the  river,  and  on  the  mountain  sides,  which  are 
well  wooded.  It  is  a  rich  soil,  and  covered  with  JJJQ<!  grass,  and  wooded  on  all  the 
streams.  The  Spaniards  called  it  El  Valle  do  San  Luis,  and  it  was  formerly  famous  for 
wild  horses  and  buffaloes ;  and  ever  since  Taos  was  settled  by  the  Spaniards,  the  in- 
habitants drove  their  sheep  and  cattle  there  to  winter.  Before  the  Utah  Indians  be- 
came so  bad,  the  stock,  as  many  as  fifty  or  sixty  thousand  head  of  sheep  and  cattle, 
have  been  driven  there  to  winter,  which  they  did  well,  feeding  on  the  grass  during  the 
day,  and  sheltering  in  the  woods  about  the  shepherds'  camp  at  night.  Most  of  the 
winters  there  is  no  snow  along  the  foot  of  the  mountain  on  the  north  side  of  this  valley, 
being  sheltered  from  the  north,  and  open  to  the  sun  to  the  south.  The  United  States 
have  established  a  military  post  in  this  valley,  not  far  from  the  pass  of  El  Sangre  de 
Christo,  and  about  two  hundred  families  have»gone  there  to  live,  chiefly  near  the  fort, 
and  raised  crops  there  last  year ;  and  now  that  they  have  protection,  the  valley  will 
soon  be  all  settled,  and  will  be  the  biggest  and  best  part  of  New  Mexico.  About  three 
hundred  families  more  were  preparing  to  move  there.  The  post  is  called  Fort  Massa- 
chusetts." 

This  is  the  Western  or  Upper  Knnzas,  and  will  make  another  great 
state,  and  both  will  quickly  be  ripe  for  admission  into  the  Union  —  East. 
Kanzas  in  1855,  and  the  western  in  1856.  They  will  both  be  settled  with 
unexampled  rapidity.  In  agriculture  and  grazing  alone  they  present  irre- 
sistible attractions  to  the  settler.  But  it  is  not  agricultural  and  pastoral 
advantages  alone,  great  as  they  are,  which  are  to  attract  people  to  this 
region  ;  other  causes  are  to  add  their  inducements  to  the  same  attractions, 
and  render  them  invincible.  At  the  head  of  these  other  causes  stands  the 
preemption  law,  now  engrafted  as  a  permanent  feature  in  the  federal  land 
system,  and  made  applicable  to  all  the  public  lands  in  the  territory.  By 
virtue  of  this  law  the  laboring  man,  without  a  dollar  in  his  pocket,  is  put 
ahead  of  the  speculator  with  his  thousands.  He  may  choose  for  himself 
out  of  the  wide  domain,  mark  out  his  choice,  take  possession,  work  it, 
and  raise  enough  out  of  it  or  on  it  to  pay  the  government  price  by  the 
time  the  pay  is  demandable,  with  the  good  prospect  to  see  it  rise  to  fen  or 
twenty  times  as  much  as  it  cost  within  a  fevv  years.  This  is  a  chance  for 
a  freehold,  and  of  provision  for  a  family,  which  the  wise  and  industrious 
tiller  of  the  earth  will  not  neglect.  Then  come  the  political  advantages. 
The  act  of  Congress  creating  the  territory  gives  great  political  rights  to 
unnaturalized  settlers  coming  into  it.  It  gives  the  elective  franchise,  and 
eligibility  to  office,  upon  the  simple  declaration  of  an  intention  to  become 
a  citizen  of  the  United  States,  and  taking  the  requisite  oaths.  This  is  an 
advantage  which  the  foreign  emigrant  will  know  how  to  appreciate  and  to 
appropriate.  Then  comes  an  advantage  of  a  different  kind  still,  novel 
but  energetic,  and  already  in  full  operation  —  the  competition  for  excess 
of  settlers  between  the  free  and  the  slave  states.  That  competition,  though 
deplorable  in  its  political  and  social  aspect,  must  have  one  good  effect 
upon  the  territory  —  that  of  rapidly  filling  it  with  people,  the  only  point 
of  view  in  which  I  refer  to  it.  Finally  comes  a  fourth  cause  in  this  extra 
list  for  attracting  settlers — one  that  must  have  its  effect  upon  all  who 
can  reason  from  cause  to  effect,  who  can  look  ahead  and  see  what  is  to 
happen  by  seeing  what  exists,  who  can  estimate  the  force  of  natural 
causes,  which  are  self-acting  and  irresistible,  and  which  work  out  their 
results  without  the  directing  and  helping  hand  of  government.  It  is  the 
Pacific  Railroad  !  Kanzas  has  the  charter  from  nature  for  that  road,  and 
will  use  it.  She  has  the  smooth  way  on  which  to  pi  nee  it,  the  straight 
way  on  which  to  run  it,  the  material  with  which  to  build  it,  the  soil  and 

i 


870        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

people  to  support  it,  and  the  salubrious  climate  to  give  it  exemption  from 
disease:  and  she  has  in  her  south-west  quarter,  precisely  where  the  straight 
line  requires  them  to  be,  the  multiplied  gates  which  open  the  mountains 
to  the  Pacific,  the  Coochatopl?,  the  Carnero,  the  San  Juan,  the  Poonche, 
the  Medio,  the  Mosca,  the  Sangre  de  Christo,  the  Utah.  These  passes, 
and  the  rich,  grand,  and  beautiful  country  in  which  they  lie,  command 
a  road,  and  will  have  it;  and  the  preernptioner  who  acquires  a  quarter 
section  on  its  line  may  consider  his  fortune  made. 

Now  I  think  I  have  provided  for  two  of  the  five  states  which  I  have 
promised,  and  that  within  the  brief  space  of  one  and  two  years,  and  each 
upon  a  larger  population  than  ha$  ever  yet  been  required  from  other  new 
states.  Now  let  us  proceed  to  the  other  three,  and  let  us  despatch  them 
in  less  time  than  these  two  have  required. 

III.  We  take  a  section  of  the  Rocky 'Mountains,  from  37°  to  41°  — 
near  three  hundred. miles  north  and  south  —  and  go  down  to  the  base  on 
each  side,  say  a  hundred  miles  or  more  each  way,  making  an  area  of  sixty 
thousand  square  miles,  while  all  the  Swiss  cantons  have  not  twenty 
thousand.  Here,  then,  is  territory  enough  for  a  great  mountain  state. 
Now  let  us  look  to  its  contents  and  capabilities.  First,  there  are  the  Three 
Parks  first  described  by  Fremont,  and  since  laid  down  on  all  the  maps  — 
large,  beautiful,  mountain  coves,  two  of  them  of  thirty  miles'  diameter 
each,  the  other  of  sixty —  at  a  great  elevation,  delightful  in  summer,  and 
tempered  in  winter,  from  the  concentration  of  the  sun's  rays,  and  sheltered 
by  the  lofty  rim  of  mountains,  forever  crowned  with  snow,  which  wall 
them  in  and  break  off  the  outside  storms.  The  name  is  not  fanciful,  nor 
bestowed  capriciously  by  travellers,  but  a  real  description,  translated  from 
the  Indian  name  of  these  parks,  which  signifies  u  cow  lodge,"  and  not 
without  reason,  for  the  buffaloes  not  only  feed  but  lodge  there,  and  make 
them  the  places  of  their  immense  congregation,  attended  by  all  the  minor 
animals  —  elk.  deer,  antelopes,  bears.  Then  the  innumerable  little  val- 
leys in  which  rise  the  myriad  of  young  streams  which,  collecting  into 
creeks,  go  off  to  start  upon  their  long  courses  in  the  mighty  rivers  which, 
there  rising  together,  go  off  in  opposite  directions,  some  to  the  rising, 
some  to  the  setting  sun  ;  the  South  Platte,  the  Arkansas,  the  Del  Norte 
on  one  side  :  and  the  Great  Colorado  of  the  West  on  the  other  —  all  four 
born  so  near  together  to  run  so  far  apart,  a  point  of  similitude  to  Switzer- 
land which  the  instructed  mind  will  not  fail  to  perceive,  and  also  to  dis- 
cover another  similitude  in  Pike's  Peak,  grand  in  its  elevation,  forever 
luminous  in  its  mantle  of  snow  —  the  Mont  Blanc  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, which  no  adventurous  Packard  or  De  Saussure  has  ever  yet  climbed. 
Then  an  endless  labyrinth  of  little  valleys  and  coves,  where  wild  animals 
luxuriate  in  summer  and  shelter  in  winter,  and  where  the  Indians  pursue 
their  game  in  all  seasons  without  impediment  from  cold  or  snow,  and 
where  their  horses  do  well  on  the  grass,  retaining  much  'of  its  moisture 
and  nutriment.  Fremont  thus  describes  the  general  winter  condition  of 
these  valleys :  — 

"  Our  progress  in  this  mountainous  region  was  necessarily  slow;  and  during  ten  days 
which  it  occupied  us  to  pass  through  about  one  hundred  miles  of  the  mountainous 
country  bordering  the  eastern  side  of  the  Upper  Colorado  valley,  the  greatest  depth  of 
the  snow  was  (among  the  pines  and  aspens  on  the  ridges)  about  two  and  a  half  feet,  and 
in  tin;  valleys  about  six  inches.  The  atmosphere  is  too  cold  and  dry  for  much  snow  ; 
and  the  valleys,  protected  by  the  mountains,  are  comparatively  free  from  it.  and  warm'. 
Vie  here  found  villages  of  Utah  Indians  in  their  wintering  ground,  in  little  valleys 

I 


THE    GREAT   WEST.  371 


along  the  foot  of  the  higher  mountains,  and  bordering  tho  more  open  country  of  the 
Colorado  valley.  Snow  was  here  (December  25)  only  a  few  inches  deep  —  the  grass 
generally  appearing  above  it,  and  there  being  none  under  trees  and  on  southern  hill 
sides.  The  horses  of  the  Utahs  were  living  on  the  range,  and,  notwithstanding  that 
they  were  used  in  hunting,  were  in  excellent  condition.  One  which  we  had  occasion  to 
kill  for  food  had  on  it  about  two  inches  of  fat,  being  in  as  good  order  as  any  buffalo  we 
had  killed  in  November  on  the  eastern  plains.  Over  this  valley  country — about  one 
hundred  and  fifty  miles  across — the  Indians  informed  us  that  snow  falls  only  a  few 
inches  in  depth,  such  as  we  saw  it  at  the  time." 

This  is  the  winter  condition  of  these  little  valleys,  very  comfortable  for 
man  and  beast,  even  in  their  wild  state,  and  to  become  more  comfortable 
under  the  hand  of  cultivation.  The  summer  view,  as  presented  by  Messrs. 
Beale  and  Heap,  is  absolutely  enchanting  —  a  perfect  labyrinth  of  val- 
leys, with  their  cool  water  and  sweet  grass ;  some  wide,  some  narrow ; 
some  bounded  by  perpendicular  walls  of  rock,  like  streets  in  a  city ; 
others  by  softly-rounded  hills ;  some  studded  with  small  circular  moun- 
tains, called  by  the  hunters  "round  mountains," — fertile  on  the  sides, 
level  and  rich  on  the  top,  diversified  with  wood  and  prairie,  and  re- 
freshed with  clear  streams,  and  beautified  with  deep,  limpid,  miniature 
lakes.  These  descriptions  are  charming,  but  too  numerous  for  quotation, 
and  I  can  only  give  a  specimen  of  each  :  — 

"  The  trail  led  over  low  hills  and  down  a  succession  of  beautiful  slopes,  running 
mostly  in  a  southern  direction,  until  we  entered  a  narrow,  winding  valley,  two  miles 
and  a  half  in  length,  by  one  and  two  hundred  yards  in  breadth.  It  was  shut  in  on  each 
Bide  by  perpendicular  walls  of  rock,  rising  from  fifty  to  seventy-five  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  valley,  whose  surface  was  flat  and  carpeted  with  tender  grass.  A  stream  of  clear 
water  meandered  through  its  centre,  and  the  grade  was  so  slight,  that  the  stream, 
overflowing  in  many  places,  moistened  the  whole  surface.  As  we  descended  this  beautiful 
and  singular  valley  we  occasionally  passed  others  of  a  similar  character.  It  ends  in  Sah- 
watch  valley,  which  we  entered  about  one  hour  before  sunset."  "  The  valleys  down  which 
we  travelled,  and  which  opened  into  each  other  with  the  regularity  of  streets,  grew 
gradually  broader  as  we  descended.  We  finally  entered  one  watered  by  Carnero  (Sheep) 
Creek,  which  joins  the  Garita  (Gate)  Creek  in  San  Luis  valley,  and  at  noon  encamped  a  . 
short  distance  above  a  gate  or  gap  through  which  the  stream  passes,  (and  whence  it  de- 
rives its  name.)  Half  a  mile  below  this  gap  there  is  another,  and  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
farther  a  third.  The  passage  through  them  is  level,  while  the  trail  around  them  is 
steep  and  stony.  In  the  afternoon  we  went  through  the  first  gap,  made  a  circuit  around 
the  second,  as  it  was  much  obstructed  with  trees  and  bushes,  and,  leaving  the  third  on 
our  left,  rode  over  some  low  hills,  and  five  miles  from  camp  crossed  the  Garita.  We 
were  once  more  in  San  Luis  valley,  and  all  before  us  was  a  perfect  level  as  far  as  the 
sight  could  reach."  "  Our  way,  for  a  mile  or  two,  led  over  a  barren  plain,  thickly 
covered  with  grice  wood,  but  we  soon  struck  the  base  of  the  mountain,  where  firm,  rich 
mountain  grass  swept  our  saddle  girths  as  we  cantered  over  it.  We  crossed  a  consider- 
able mountain  covered  with  timber  and  grass,  and  near  the  summit  of  which  was  quite 
a  cluster  of  small,  but  very  clear  and  apparently  deep  lakes.  They  were  not  more  than 
an  acre  or  two  in  size,  and  some  not  even  that,  but  surrounded  by  luxuriant  grass,  and 
perched  away  upon  the  mountain,  with  fine  timber  quite  near  them.  It  was  the  most 
beautiful  scenery  in  the  world.  It  formed  quite  a  hunter's  paradise,  for  deer  and  elk 
bounded  off  from  us  as  we  approached,  and  then  stood  within  rifle  shot,  looking  back 
in  astonishment.  A  few  hours'  ride  brought  us  to  the  Indian  camp;  and  I  wish  I  here 
could  describe  the  beauty  of  the  charming  valley  in  which  they  camped.  It  was  small, 
probably  not  more  than  five  miles  wide  by  fifteen  long,  but  surrounded  on  all  sides  by' 
the  boldest  mountains,  covered  to  their  summits  with  alternate  patches  of  timber  and 
grass,  giving  it  the  appearance  of  having  been  regularly  laid  off  in  small  farms.  Through 
the  centre  a  fine  bold  stream,  three  feet  deep  by  forty  wide,  watered  the  meadow  land, 
and  gave  the  last  touch  which  the  valley  required  to  make  it  the  most  beautiful  I  had 
ever  seen."  "  Hundreds  of  horses  and  goats  were  feeding  on  the  meadows  and  hill  side ; 
and  the  Indian  lodges,  with  the  women  and  children  standing  in  front  of  them  to  look 
at  the  approaching  stranger,  strongly  reminded  me  of  old  patriarchal  times,  when 
flocks  and  herds  made  the  wealth  and  happiness  of  the  people,  and  a  hut  was  as  good 
as  a  palace.  I  was  conducted  to  the  lodge  of  the  chief —  an  old  and  infirm  man,  who 


372        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OB 


welcomed  me  kindly,  and  told  me  his  young  men  told  him  that  I  had  given  of  my 
small  store  to  them,  and  to  '  sit  in  peace.'  In  about  fifteen  minutes  a  squaw  brought 
in  two  large  wooden  platters,  containing  some  very  fat  deer  meat,  and  some  boiled  corn, 
to  which  1  did  ample  justice ;  and  when  about  to  leave,  found  a  large  bag  of  dried  meat 
and  a  peck  of  corn  put  up  for  me  to  take  to  my  people."  "  This  morning  I  explored  the 
mountain  lying  to  the  south  of  our  camp,  forming  a  picturesque  portion  of  our  front 
view.  After  ascending  the  mountain  and  reaching  the  summit,  I  found  it  a  vast  plateau 
of  rolling  prairie  land,  covered  with  the  most  beautiful  grass,  and  heavily  timbered.  At 
eome  places  the  growth  of  timber  would  be  so  dense  as  to  render  riding  through  it  impos- 
sible without  great  difficulty ;  while  at  others  it  would  break  into  beautiful  open  glades, 
leavingspots  of  a  hundredacres  or  more  of  open  prairie,  with  groups  of  trees,  looking  pre- 
cisely as  if  some  wealthy  planter  had  amused  himself  by  planting  them  expressly  to 
beautify  his  grounds.  Springs  were  abundant,  and  small  streams  intersected  the  whole 
plateau.  In  fact,  it  was  an  immense  natural  p%rk,  already  stocked  with  deer  and  elk, 
and  only  requiring  a  fence  to  make  it  an  estate  for  a  king.  Directly  opposite  to  the 
eouth  is  another  mountain,  in  every  respect  similar ;  and  a  valley,  more  beautiful  to  me 
than  either,  lies  between  them." 

Enough  for  a  sample ;  and  if  any  thing  more  is  wanted  to  establish  the 
character  of  this  mountain  region  for  fertility  of  soil  and  attraction  for 
man,  it  is  found  in  its  character  of  hunting  .and  of  war  ground.  Fre- 
mont says  he  found  it  the  most  variously  and  numerously  stocked 
with  game,  and  the  most  dangerous  war  ground,  which  he  had  seen  in  all 
the  extent  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  —  both  indexes  to  a  fertile  country. 
The  country  sought  for  by  animals  and  fought  for  by  men  is  always  a 
good  country.  Western  men  will  understand  this,  and  remember  how 
Kentucky  was  called  the  "  Bloody  Ground,"  because  Indians  came  there 
to  hunt  the  numerous  game,  feeding  on  the  rich  grass,  product  of  her  rich 
soil,  and  to  fight  for  its  possession.  By  this  test  —  and  it  is  one  which 
never  fails  —  our  Mountain  State  will  be  one  of  eminent  fertility. 

We  Americans  are  in  the  habit  of  referring  to  Europe  for  a  point  of 
comparison  for  every  thing  we  wish  to  praise  in  our  own  country,  although 
onr  own  may  be  far  superior ;  therefore  I  compare  this  Mountain  State 
to  Switzerland,  although  it  is  disparaged  in  the  comparison.  Its  valleys 
are  more  numerous  and  beautiful  —  its  mountains  less  rugged  and  more 
fertile  —  its  surface  more  inhabitable  —  its  climate  more  mild  and  equally 
salubrious  —  more  accessible  by  roads ;  the  mule  every  where  sure  of  its 
fe.et,  the  carriage  of  its  wheel,  and  the  hunter  at  liberty  to  pursue  his 
game  without  fear  of  slipping  into  a  bottomless  icy  chasm,  betrayed  by  a 
treacherous  covering  of  snow.  Its  little  round  mountains,  with  their 
grassy  sides,  and  rich  level  tops,  and  natural  parks,  and  miniature  lakes, 
and  sweet  flowing  waters,  have  no  parallel  in  Switzerland,  or  in  any  other 
part  of  the  world.  And  upon  this  view  of  their  relative  advantages  I  am 
ready  to  adopt  the  opinion  of  Fremont,  and  to  go  beyond  it,  and  to  cele- 
brate this  Mountain  State  as  being  as  much  superior  to  Switzerland  in 
adaptation  to  settlement  as  it  would  be  in  extent ;  and  to  crown  its 
recommendations,  just  half  way  to  the  Pacific,  and  on  the  straight  line. 

IV.  The  valley  of  the  Upper  Colorado  would  furnish  the  territory  for 
the  fourth  state,  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  wide  from  the  western  base 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains  to  the  eastern  base  of  the  Wahsatch  and  Anter 
ria  ranges,  and  three  or  four  hundred  in  length,  up  and  down  the  river. 
The  face  of  the  country  is  high  and  rolling,  with  alternations  of  wood- 
land prairie,  and  open  to  roads  and  settlement  in  any  direction.  The 
soil,  like  much  of  that  on  the  Rio  del  Norte  and  in  Southern  California, 
is  peculiar  and  deceptious  —  looking  thin  and  sandy  to  the  eye,  but 
having  an  element  of  fertility  in  it  which  water  impregnates,  and  enables 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  373 


to  send  forth  a  vigorous  vegetation.  All  it  wants,  and  that  only  in 
places,  is  irrigation;  and  for  this  purpose,  and  for  all  purposes,  there  is 
water  enough ;  for  this  valley  is  probably  the  best  watered  region  in  the 
world,  and  is  obliged  to  be  so  from  the  configuration  and  structure  of  the 
country.  The  valley  is  formed  by  the  lofty  ranges  of  the  Rocky  and 
Wahsatch  Mountains,  which,  wide  apart  at  its  lower  end,  converge  as  they 
go  north,  and  unite  above  latitude  forty-two  —  giving  to  the  long  and 
broad  valley  they  enclose  the  form  of  the  Greek  letter  delta,  (A,)  or  of 
our  V  inverted.  The  summits  of  these  mountains  are  covered  with  eter- 
nal snows  —  their  sides  with  annual  winter  snows ;  and  these  latter, 
beginning  to  melt  early  in  the  spring,  and  continuing  till  midsummer, 
fill  the  earth  with  moisture,  and  give  rise  to  myriads  of  springs,  creeks, 
and  small  rivers,  which  collect  into  the  two  forks  of  the  Colorado,  called 
by  the  hunters  Green  and  Grand  Rivers,  and,  in  their  junction,  constitute 
the  great  river  itself;  for  the  country  below,  being  sterile  and  arid,  con- 
tributes but  little  to  swell  the  volume  of  the  great  river  which  traverses 
it.  The  climate  in  this  valley  is  mild  —  the  month  of  January  being 
like  autumn  to  us.  We  owe  this  knowledge  to  the  last  winter  expedition 
of  Fremont,  who  says,  "  The  immediate  valley  of  the  Upper  Colorado, 
for  about  one  hundred  miles  in  breadth,  and  from  the  7th  to  the  21st  of 
January,  was  entirely  bare  of  snow,  and  the  weather  resembled  autumn 
with  us."  Coal  abounds  in  this  valley,  cropping  out  in  thick  strata  in 
the  bluffs  of  Grand  River,  (the  east  fork  of  the  Great  Colorado,)  and  a 
saline  creek  thirty  miles  long,  and  formed  by  salt  springs,  falls  into  the 
same  fork  from  the  north ;  and  both  the  coal  and  the  salt  are  in  the  line 
of  the  contemplated  road  to  the  Pacific.  This  would  be  the  fourth  state 

—  equal  in  extent  to  any,  inferior  in  soil,. superior  in  wood  and  water, 
softer  in  climate,  better  in  due  alternations  of  woodland  and  prairie:  and 
being  part  of  the  Utah  Territory,  it  is  now  under  the  dominion  of  law 
and  government,  and  open  to  immediate  settlement,  which,  in  fact,  is  now 
going  on. 

V.  The  fifth  state  would  consist  of  the  remainder  of  the  Utah  Terri- 
tory, beginning  at  the  eastern  base  of  the  Wahsatch  and  Anterria  ranges, 
and  extending  300  miles  to  the  California  line,  upon  whatever  breadth 
might  be  desired.  It  would  include,  towards  its  eastern  border,  the  Little 
Salt  Lake,  which  is  260  miles  south  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  and  which 
designates  a  country  as  much  superior  to  that  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake  as 
itself  is  inferior  to  that  large  and  marvellous  body  of  salt  water.  It 
would  be  a  magnificent  state ;  its  eastern  limit,  there  the  rim  of  the  Great 
Basin,  would  embrace  the  broad  expanse  of  the  Wahsatch  and  Anterria 
ranges,  or  rather  blocks,  as  they  are  cut  up  into  short  sections  —  proba- 
bly the  richest  mountain  region  in  the  world,  where  Nature  has  crowded 
and  accumulated  into  a  hundred  miles  square,  as  into  a  vast  magazine,  a 
profusion  of  her  most  valuable  gifts  to  man.  Soil,  water,  grass,  wood, 
timber,  rock  salt,  coal,  stone,  a  due  alternation  of  mountain  and  valley 

—  the  former  cut  into  blocks,  white  on  the  top  with  snow,  dark  on  the 
sides  with  forests,  and  their  bosoms  filled  with  ores ;  the  valleys  green 
with  grass,  fresh  with  cool  water,  opening  into  each  other  by  narrow 
level  gaps,  or  defiles ;  the  climate  so  soft  that  animals  live  out  all  the 
winter,  and  February  (so  frosty  and  frozen  with  us)  the  usual  month 
there  for  starting  the  plough :  I  say  starting  the  plough ;  for  the  Mor- 
mons, since  several  years,  have  seen  the  beauty  of  this  region,  and  have 

32 


374        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

come  upon  it.  We  owe  to  Fremont's  last  winter  expedition  the  revela- 
tion to  public  view  of  this  magnificent  region,  more  valuable  than  all  the 
golden  mines  of  California  and  Australia  put  together.  He  had  seen 
these  ranges  in  his  previous  expeditions,  and  given  them  a  page  in  his 
journal,  and  a  place  in  his  map  ;  but  it  was  not  until  his  last  expedition 
that  he  penetrated  their  recesses,  and  saw  their  hidden  treasures.  He 
was  fourteen  days  in  them,  (from  the  24th  of  January  to  the  7th  of  Feb- 
ruary,) and  thus  speaks  of  what  he  saw  :  — 

«  They  lie  between  the  Colorado  valley  and  the  Great  Pasin ;  and  at  their  western 
base  are  established  the  Mormon  settlements  of  Parowan  and  Cedar  City.  They  ar» 
what  are  called  fertile  mountains,  abundant  in  water,  wood,  and  grass,  and  fertile  val- 
leys, offering  inducements  to  settlement  and  facilities  for  making  a  road.  These  moun- 
tains are  a  great  storehouse  of  materials  —  timber,  iroa,  coal  —  which  would  be  of  in- 
dispensable use  in  the  construction  and  maintenance  of  the  road,  and  are  solid  founda- 
tions to  build  up  the  future  prosperity  of  the  rapidly  increasing  Utah  state.  Salt  is 
abundant  on  the  eastern  border;  mountains  —  as  the  Sierra  de  Sal — being  named 
from  it.  In  the  ranges  lying  behind  the  Mormon  settlements,  among  the  mountains 
through  which  the  line  passes,  are  accumulated  a  great  wealth  of  iron  and  coal,  and 
extensive  forests  of  heavy  timber.  These  forests  are  the  largest  I  am  acquainted  with 
In  the  Rocky  Mountains,  being,  in  some  places,  20  miles  in  depth  of  continuous  for- 
est ;  the  general  growth  lofty  and  large,  frequently  over  three  feet  in  diameter,  and 
sometimes  reaching  five  feet,  the  red  spruce  and  yellow  pine  predominating.  At  the 
actual  southern  extremity  of  the  Mormon  settlements,  consisting  of  the  two  enclosed 
towns  of  Parowan  and  Cedar  City,  near  to  which  our  line  passed,  a  coal  mine  has  been 
opened  for  about  80  yards,  and  iron  works  already  established.  Iron  here  occurs  in 
extraordinary  masses,  in  some  parts  accumulated  into  mountains,  which  comb  out  in 
wests  of  solid  iron,  30  feet  thick  and  100  yards  long." 

Fremont  brought  home  specimens  of  this  coal  and  iron,  of  which  Pro- 
fessor Baird,  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution,  has  made  the  analysis  ;  and 
which  I  give  in  his  own  words :  "  Magnetic  oxide  of  iron :  Parowan. 
Seems  a  very  pure  ore  of  iron,  and  suitable  for  manufacturing  purposes. 
May  be  estimated  to  contain  about  70  or  71  per  centum  of  metallic  iron, 
somewhat  similar  to  the  ore  in  the  great  beds  of  Northern  New  York, 
but  more  solid  than  is  usual  there.  Probably  very  well  adapted  to  the 
manufacture  of  steel.  The  coal  appears  to  be  of  excellent  quality  — 
gemi-bituminous  —  somewhat  in  appearance  like  the  transition  coal  of 
the  Susquehanna  mines  in  Pennsylvania." 

I  must  ask  the  pardon  of  some  of  my  auditors  for  supposing  that  they 
may  not  be  better  acquainted  with  the  language  of  geology  than  I  was 
myself,  when  I  supposed  that  this  "  combing  out  of  the  solid  iron  in 
crests "  was  mere  descriptive  language,  suggested  by  the  taste  of  the 
writer.  I  found  it  was  not  so,  but  the  technical  phraseology,  which  the 
geological  science  required  to  be  used,  and  which,  being  used,  conveyed 
an  exact  meaning  —  that  of  a  mineral  showing  itself  above  the  surface, 
and  crowning  the  top  of  the  hill  or  mountain  as  a  crest  does  the  helmet, 
and  the  comb  the  head  of  th'e  cock.  In  this  view  of  its  meaning  the 
language  here  used  by  Fremont,  and  which  seems  to  have  been  the  sug- 
gestion of  an  excited  imagination,  becomes  the  subdued  expression  of 
science  and  technicality.  And  what  a  picture  he  presents  !  What  pro- 
fusion and  variety  of  God's  best  gifts  to  man !  Here  are,  in  fact,  the 
elements  of  a  great  state  —  enough  of  themselves  to  build  up  a  rich  and 
populous  state  ;  but  appurtenant  to  it,  and  interlaced  with  it,  or  border- 
ing upon  it,  is  a  great  extent  of  valley  country  —  that  of  the  Little  Salt 
Lake,  of  the  Santa  Clara  Meadows,  of  the  Nicollets  River,  and  its  tribu- 
taries ;  and  a  multitude  of  other  coves  and  valleys,  all  stretching  aloug 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  375 


the  western  base  of  the  Wahsatch,  and  within  the  rim  of  the  Great  Ba- 
sin ;  that  basin  as  remarkable  here  for  beauty  and  fertility  as  in  most 
other  parts  for  sterility  and  deformity.  The  Mormon  settlements  of  Par- 
agoona,  Parowan,  and  Cedar  City  are  along  the  edge  of  this  rich  moun- 
tain region ;  and  the  well-trod  Mormon  road  from  the  Great  Salt  Lake 
to  Southern  California,  relieved  with  bridges  and  marked  with  mile- 
stones, pass  by  these  towns ;  all  announcing  to  the  traveller  that  in  the 
depths  of  the  unknown  wilderness  he  had  encountered  the  comforts  of 
civilization.  Messrs.  Beale  and  Heap  p*assed  these  settlements  at  mid- 
summer, and  speak  in  terms  of  enchantment,  not  only  of  the  beauty  of 
the  country,  but  of  the  improvements  and  cultivation.  Pretty  towns, 
built  to  a  pattern,  each  a  square,  the  sides  formed  by  lines  of  adobe 
houses,  all  facing  inwards,  with  flower  and  kitchen  gardens  in  front,  and 
a  large  common  field  in  the  rear,  crowded  with  growing  grain' —  and  all 
watered,  both  fields  and  gardens,  and  the  front  and  rear  of  every  house, 
with  clear  cool  streams,  brought  down  from  the  mountain  sides,  and 
from  under  a  seeming  canopy  of  snow.  Grist  and  saw  mills  at  work ; 
forges  smelting  the  iron  ore ;  colliers  digging  the  coal ;  blacksmiths 
hammering  the  red  hot  iron  into  farming  implements,  or  shoes  for  the 
horses  —  assisted  by  dexterous  Indian  boys  ;  cattle  roaming  in  rich  nat- 
ural pastures ;  people  quarrying,  and  the  cattle  licking,  the  rock  salt. 
Emigrants  obtain  supplies  here  —  beef  and  flour,  at  moderate  prices : 
and  it  was  here  that  Fremont  was  refitted  after  his  70  days  of  living 
upon  his  mules  which  died  from  exhaustion.  The  number  and  beauty  of 
these  valleys  and  fertile  mountains,  seen  by  Beale  and  Heap  in  exuber- 
ance, their  ripe,  rich  dress  of  midsummer,  excite  their  wonder,  and  call 
forth  enchanting  descriptions.  Broad  valleys,  connected  by  narrow  ones 
—  a  continued  succession  of  these  valleys  going  from  one  to  another, 
not  by  climbing  ridges,  but  through  level  openings  —  grass,  flowers,  and 
water  in  each.  The  mountains,  some  circular,  some  cut  into  blocks, 
some  with  fertile  flat  tops,  rich  in  vegetation,  some  with  peaks  white  with 
snow,  and  all  dark  with  forests  on  their  sides.  It  is  impossible  to  read 
their  descriptions  without  being  reminded  of  Central  Persia,  and  of  that 
valley  of  Shiraz,  celebrated  as  incomparable  by  the  poets,  but  matched 
and  surpassed  in  the  recesses  of  the  Wahsatch  and  the  Anterria;  and 
the  climate  delicious  in  summer,  and  soft  in  winter.  From  the  24th  of 
January  to  the  8th  of  February,  that  Fremont  explored  this  region,  he 
found  in  the  valleys  either  no  snow  at  all,  or  a  thin  covering  only ;  and, 
in  the  first  week  of  February,  the  Mormons  told  him  they  had  usually 
commenced  ploughing,  and  preparing  the  ground  for  the  spring  seeds. 
And  yet  all  this  would  be  but  a  corner  of  a  state,  which  may  spread  west 
and  north  some  hundred  miles  to  the  California  line,  and  into  the  Great 
Basin  —  chiefly  characterized  as  desert,  but  which  has  i^s  oases  —  vegas, 
as  the  Spaniards  call  them  —  meadows  refreshed  with  water,  green  with 
grass,  and  arable  land,  and  with  a  structure  of  country,  narrow  valleys 
between  snowy  mountains,  which  give  assurance  of  the  artesian  wells 
which  can  extend  the  area  of  fertility,  and  multiply  the  points  of  settle- 
ment. So  that  thia  fifth  state  may  be  as  extensive,  as  populous,  and  as 
rich  as  any  public  interest  could  require.  Abundant  instances  are  given 
by  Fremont,  and  by  Beale  and  Heap,  to  justify  this  enchanting  descrip- 
tion of  these  valleys  and  vecjas :  too  many  to  cite.  One  only  will  be 
quoted  as  a  specimen.  I  take  it  from  Fremont's  description  of  one  of 


376        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

-• 

the  vegas  of  Santa  Clara ;  for  there  are  several  of  them,  and  they  are 
always  cited  in  the  plural  —  vegas,  not  vega.    He  says,  — 

"  We  considered  ourselves  as  crossing  the  rim  of  the  Great  Basin  ;  and,  entering  it 
at  this  point,  we  found  here  an  extensive  mountain  meadow,  rich  in  'bunch  grass,'  and 
fresh  with  numerous  springs  of  clear  wa.ter,  all  refreshing  and  delightful  to  look  upon. 
It  was,  in  fact,  that  las  vegas  de  Santa  Clara,  which  had  been  so  long  presented  to  us  as 
the  terminating  point  of  the  desert,  and  wiiere  the  annual  caravan,  from  California  to 
New  Mexico,  halted  and  recruited  for  some  weeks.  The  meadow  was  about  one  mile 
wide  and  ten  long,  bordered  by  grassy  hills  and  mountains  —  some  of  the  latter  rising 
2000  feet,  and  white  with  snow  (Ma£)  down  to  the  level  of  the  vega.  Its  elevation 
above  the  sea  was  5280  feet,  and  its  latitude,  by  observation,  37°  28'  28".  Here  we  had 
complete  relief  from  the  heat  and  privations  of  the  desert,  (on  the  old  route  to  Los 
Angeles.)" 

The  " bunch  grass"  here  spoken  of,  takes  its  name  from  the  form  in 
which  it  grows,  which  is  in  bunches  —  different  from  the  short  grass 
called  "  buffalo"  on  the  east  side  of  the  Kocky  Mountains — but  about 
equally  valuable,  being  nutritious  both  in  summer  and  winter,  and  hav- 
ing a  second  growth  in  the  fall.  It  prevails  extensively  on  the  Pacific 
slope  of  our  continent,  and  is  an  element  of  national  wealth  in  its  sup- 
port of  stock.  The  climate  of  this  region,  besides  what  has  been  said, 
may  be  judged  of  by  the  material  used  for  building,  even  where  wood 
and  stone  are  abundant  —  adobes,  or  sun-baked  bricks.  That  indicates  a 
climate  comparatively  dry  and  mild  —  more  Asiatic  than  American  — 
reminding  us  of  Nineveh  and  Babylon.  Certainly  no  houses,  built  of 
such  material,  (with  or  without  straw,)  on  our  side  of  the  continent, 
could  stand  the  driving  of  our  merciless  rains,  or  resist  the  action  of  our 
freezing  winters. 

Beale  and  Heap  went  through  these  ranges  not  only  at  a  different  sea- 
son of  the  year  from  Fremont,  but  on  a  different  line  ;  and  their  descrip- 
tion of  the  pass  at  the  divorce  point  of  the  waters  between  the  valley  of 
the  Upper  Colorado  and  the  Great  Basin,  and  of  the  valleys  of  the  An- 
terria  and  Wahsatch,  and  of  the  Mormon  settlements,  will  complete  this 
view  of  the  capabilities  of  the  fifth  state.  This,  then,  is  what  they  say :  — 

"  On  the  summit  of  the  'divide'  (divortia  aqttarum)  between  the  waters  of  the  Colo- 
rado and  the  Great  Basin,  and  before  descending  into  the  valley  of  the  Rio  Salado,  an 
affluent  of  Sevier  (Nicollet)  River,  I  took  a  careful  survey  of  the  surrounding  country, 
which  offered  many  interesting  features.  The  Wahsatch  Mountains  are  composed  of 
several  parallel  ranges,  running  north  and  south,  with  fine  well-watered  valleys  be- 
tween them.  They  are  short,  and  between  the  valleys  are  numerous  passes.  The  hilla 
are  clothed,  from  their  summits  to  their  base,  with  a  thick  growth  of  pine  trees,  cedars, 
and  aspens,  and  the  brook  was  swarming  with  trout.  The  'divide'  is  broad,  level,  and 
smooth,  and  the  descent,  on  the  western  side,  easy.  We  encamped,  for  the  night,  on 
the  Salado,  in  a  broad  and  level  valley.  Throughout  the  mountains  the  grass  reminded 
us  of  that  of  the  Sahwatch  range,  although  in  the  valley  it  was  less  luxuriant.  We 
were  now  in  the  Great  Basin,  and  near  the  Mormon  settlements ;  and,  directing  our 
course  west,  we  came  again  to  the  Salado,  at  the  place  where  it  flows  past  the  mines  of 
rock  salt,  from  which  it  derives  its  name.  The  course  of  the  creek  is  here  south-west, 
and  it  joins  Nicoltet  River,  about  three  miles  below  the  mines.  At  the  mines  we  found 
a  Mormon  trail,  which,  our  guide  told  us,  led  to  their  settlements,  about  20  miles  dis- 
tant. Following  up  Sevier  (Nicollet)  River,  four  miles  brought  us  to  beautiful  meadows, 
grass  luxuriant,  reaching  above  the  saddle  girths.  Crossing  Nicollet  River,  we  passed 
over  a  steep  hill ;  we  descended  into  another  valley,  watered  by  the  same  stream,  hav- 
ing missed  the  Mormon  road  which  led  into  it.  This  valley  lies  north  and  south,  and 
unsurpassed  in  beauty  and  fertility  by  any  thing  we  had  yet  seen.  It  is  about  thirty 
miles  in  length  by  four  in  breadth ;  surrounded  by  mountains,  down  whose  sides  tric- 
kled numberless  cool  and  limpid  brooks,  fringed  with  willows  and  cotton  wood.  Nicollet 
River  flows  through  its  centre,  and  it  abounds,  in  its  entire  length,  in  rich  pasturage. 
The  mountains  which  enclose  it  were  clothed,  from  summit  to  base,  with  oaks  and 
pines.  At  the  head  of  the  valley,  and  through  a  canon  (canyon)  comes  in  the  Rio  San 


THE   GREAT  WEST.  377 


Pasqual  —  the  main  fork  of  the  Nicollet,  and  which  itself  flows  through  a  valley  of 
great  beauty. 

"  Arrived  at  Little  Salt  Lake.  (260  miles  south  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake,)  in  the  valley 
of  which  is  the  first  Mormon  town  —  Paragoona  —  of  about  30  houses,  built  of  adobes, 
(sun-burnt  bricks,)  presenting  a  neat  and  comfortable  appearance,  but  broken  up,  in 
the  moment  of  our  arrival,  by  the  Utah  war.  and  the  inhabitants  removed  to  Parowan. 
Proceeded  to  this  town  over  an  excellent  wagon  road,  made,  and  kept  in  repair,  and 
bridged  in  many  places  by  the  Mormons.  We  passed  a  large  grist  and  saw  mill  worked 
by  water  power.  Parowan  is  in  a  pretty  valley  of  its  own  name,  and  is  a  town  of  about 
100  houses,  (adobes,)  built  in  a  square  and  facing  inwards.  In  their  rear,  and  outside 
of  the  town,  are  vegetable  gardens,  each  house  having  a  lot  running  back  about  100 
yards.  By  an  excellent  system  of  irrigation,  water  is  brought  to  the  front  and  rear  of 
each  house,  and  through  the  centre,  and  along  the  outside  boundary  of  each  garden 
lot.  The  houses  are  ornamented  in  front  with  small  flower  gardens,  which  are  fenced 
off  from  the  square,  and  shaded  with  trees.  The  field  covers  about  400  acres,  and  was 
in  a  high  state  of  cultivation  ;  the  wheat  and  corn  being  as  fine  as  any  we  had  seen  in 
the  States.  Several  smelting  furnaces  are  at  work  upon  the  iron  ore  in  the  mountains, 
coal  for  the  fuel,  and  all  asserted  to  be  abundant  and  excellent.  We  had  our  horses 
ehod  here,  two  Pahutah  boys  assisting  the  white  blacksmith;  and  we  were  surprised  to 
see  the  skill  and  dexterity  with  which  they  assisted  —  fully  equal  to  that  of  our  white 
boys  of  the  same  age.  Furnaces  for  smelting  iron  ore  were  already  in  operation  in  the 
vicinity  of  Paragoona  and  Parowan,  and  that  metal,  which  was  obtained  in  sufficient 
quantity  to  supply  any  demand,  was  also  of  excellent  quality,  and  the  veins  of  coal 
apparently  inexhaustible.  A  largo  force  of  English  miners  was  employed  in  working 
these  mines,  and  pronounced  the  coal  to  be  equal  to  the  best  English  coal.  We  saw  it 
in  use  in  the  forges  —  bituminous,  and  burning  with  a  bright  flame.  A  Pahutah  hand- 
ed me  some  ears  of  wheat,  the  grains  of  which  I  preserved,  and  he  stated  that  it  grows 
spontaneously  near  the  Santa  Clara.  It  is  from  this  stock  that  the  New  Mexicans  have 
obtained  the  seed  which  they  call  Pahute  wheat,  and  the  Mormons  Taos  wheat,  and 
which  has  been  much  improved  by  cultivation,  and  is  considered  the  best  in  New  Mex- 
ico and  Utah." 

Mr.  Chairman,  I  commenced  this  speech  with  undertaking  to  estab- 
lish two  propositions  ;  first,  that  the  country  between  Missouri  and  Cal- 
ifornia, in  the  latitude  in  which  we  now  stand,  is  well  adapted  to  settle- 
ment and  cultivation,  and  capable  of  forming  five  great  states  ;  secondly, 
that  it  is  well  adapted  to  the  construction  of  a  railway.  I  believe  I  have 
made  good  the  first  of  these  propositions,  and  that  we  may  now  assume 
that  the  line  of  great  states  which  now  extend  nearly  half  way  across 
this  continent,  and  through  the  centre  of  this  Union  —  Pennsylvania, 
Ohio,  Indiana,  Illinois,  and  Missouri  —  may  be  continued,  and  matched, 
by  an  equal  number  of  states,  equally  great,  between  Missouri  and  Cali- 
fornia. I  consider  that  proposition  established,  and  say  no  more  about 
it.  The  establishment  of  the  second  proposition  results  from  the  estab- 
lishment of  the  first  one,  as  all  that  has  been  shown  in  favor  of  the  coun- 
try for  settlement  and  cultivation  is  equally  in  favor  of  it  for  the  road. 
But  I  have  some  direct  and  positive  testimony  on  this  head  which  the 
importance  of  the  subject,  and  the  value  of  the  testimony  itself,  requires 
to  be  produced.  I  speak  of  the  last  expedition  of  Colonel  Fremont  — 
his  winter  expedition  of  185,3  and  1854  —  and  of  the  success  which  at- 
tended it,  and  of  the  value  of  the  information  which  it  afforded.  He 
chose  the  dead- of  winter  for  his  exploration,  that  he  might  see  the  worst 
—  see  the  real  difficulties,  and  determine  whether  they  could  be  van- 
quished. He  believed  in  the  practicability  of  the  road,  and  that  his  mis- 
carriage in  1848-9,  was  the  fault  of  his  guide,  not  of  the  country;  and 
he  was  determined  to  solve  those  questions  by  the  test  of  actual  experi- 
ment. 

With  these  views  he  set  out,  taking  the  winter  for  his  time,  the  west 
for  his  course,  a  straight  line  his  object,  the  mouth  of  the  Kanzas  for  his 

32* 


378        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

point  of  departure,  St.  Louis  and  San  Francisco  the  points  to  be  con- 
nected. The  parallels  of  38  and  39  covered  his  course ;  and  between 
these  he  continued  to  move  west  until  he  reached  the  Little  Salt  Lake, 
within  300  miles  of  the  California  line;  after  that  upon  a  slight  deflec- 
tion to  the  south,  between  the  parallels  37  and  38,  until  he  entered  Cali- 
fornia. This  may  be  called  a  straight  line,  and  so  fulfils  a  primary  con- 
dition of  every  kind  of  road,  and  especially  of  a  railroad,  where  a  speed 
of  a  hundred  miles  an  hour  may  be  as  easily  attained,  and  as  safely  run, 
as  the  third  of  that  velocity  in  a  road  of  crooks  and  curves. 

Snow  was  the  next  consideration  ;  and  of  that  he  found  none,  on  any 
part  of  the  route,  to  impede  any  kind  of  travelling.  On  the  Kanzas,  the 
Upper  Arkansas,  and  the  Huerfano,  he  found  none  at  all ;  in  the  Sand 
Hill  pass  of  the  Sierra  Blanca,  none ;  in  the  valleys  of  San  Luis,  and  the 
Sahwatch,  none ;  in  the  Coochatope  pass,  four  inches ;  and  none  if  ho 
had  crossed  the  day  before  ;  and  that  was  the  14th  of  December,  corre- 
sponding with  the*  time,  and  almost  in  view  of  the  place  where  he  had 
been  buried  in  the  snows  five  years  before-^-  and  would  have  been  again 
if  he  had  gone  to  the  same  pface.  This  solved  the  question  of  snow  in 
the  passes  of  the  mountains,  and  showed  that  his  miscarriage  had  been 
the  mistake  of  the  guide,  and  not  the  fault  of  the  country.  After  that  — 
after  crossing  the  Kocky  Mountains  —  the  climate  changes.  A  great 
amelioration- takes  place,  which  he  knew  before,  and  then  fully  experi- 
enced. The  remainder  of  the  route,  as  has  been  shown  in  the  view  of 
the  country,  may  be  said  to  have  been  found  free  from  snow  —  a  hun- 
dred miles  at  a  time  in  one  place  without  finding  any ;  and  when  found 
at  all,  both  thin  and  transient ;  and  all  so  light  and  dry  as  to  clog  noth- 
ing, nor  damp  the  moccason  in  a  day's  travel.  And  that  this  was  the 
common  winter  state  of  the  pass,  and  not  an  occasional  exception,  has 
been  shown  by  Mr.  Antoine  Leroux,  and  others,  and  corresponded  with 
his  own  theory  of  snow  in  the  passes.  Mr.  Leroux,  in  his  published  let- 
ter to  me,  said,  "  There  is  not  much  snow  in  this  pass,  (the  Coochatope,) 
and  people  go  through  it  all  the  winter.  And  when  there  is  much  snow 
on  the  mountains  on  the  Abiquiu  route,  (which  is  the  old  Spanish  trail 
from  Santa  Fe  to  California,)  the  people  of  Taos  go  round  this  way,  and 
get  into  that  trail  in  the  forks  of  Grand  and  Green  Rivers."  And 
Messrs.  Beale  and  Heap,  in  their  journal,  say  of  it,  "  Coochatope  pass 
is  travelled  at  all  seasons,  and  some  of  our  men  had  repeatedly  gone 
through  it  in  the  middle  of  winter,  without  meeting  any  serious  obstruc- 
tion from  snows."  And  this  was  the  theory  of  Fremont,  that  the  passes 
in  these  mountains  were  nearly  free  from  snow,  and  comparatively  warm ; 
while  in  the  open  plains,  or  on  the  mountain  summits,  deep  snows  would 
prevail,  and  a  killing  cold,  which  no  animal  life  could  stand.  This  frees 
the  Rocky  Mountains  from  that  objection.  The  next  range  of  moun- 
tains (for  all  the  valleys  have  been  shown  to  be  free)  is  the  Anterria  and 
Wahsatch ;  and  there  again  the  passes  are  free.  Fremont  says  of 
them,  — 

"  In  passing  through  this  bed  of  mountains  about  fourteen  days  had  been  occupied, 
from  January  24  to  February  7  ;  the  deepest  snows  we  here  encountered  being  about 
up  to  the  saddle  skirts,  or  four  feet ;  this  occurring  only  in  occasional  drifts  in  the 
passes  on  northern  exposures,  and  in  the  small  mountain  flats  hemmed  in  by  woods 
and  hills.  In  the  valley  it  was  sometimes  a  few  inches  deep,  and  as  often  none  at  all. 
On  our  arrival  at  the  Mormon  settlements.  February  8,  \ve  found  it  a  few  inches 
deep,  and  were  there  informed  that  the  winter  had  been  unusually  long-continued  and 
severe,  the  thermometer  having  been  as  low  as  17°  below  zero,  and  more  snow  having 


THE    GREAT   WEST.  379 


fallen  than  in  all  the  previous  winters  together  since  the  establishment  of  the  colony. 
At  this  season  their  farmers  had  usually  been  occupied  with  their  plqughs,  preparing 
the  land  for  seed." 

The  Sierra  Nevada  was  the  last  range  of  mountains  ;  and  there  not  a 
particle  of  snow  was  found  in  the  pass  which  he  traversed,  while  the 
mountain  itself  was  deeply  covered.  And  this  disposes  of  the  objection 
of  snow  on  this  route,  so  formidable  in  the  imagination  of  those  who 
have  nothing  but  an  imaginary  view  of  it. 

Smoothness  of  surface,  or  freedom  from  abrupt  inequalities  in  the 
ground,  is  the  next  consideration  :  and  here  the  reality  exceeded  the  ex- 
pectation, and  challenges  incredulity.  Let  Fremont  speak.  He  says,  — 

"  Standing  immediately  at  the  mouth  of  the  Sand  Hill  pass  —  one  of  the  most  prac- 
ticable in  the  Sierra  Blanca,  and  above  those  usually  travelled  —  at  one  of  the  remotest 
head  springs  of  the  Huerfano  River,  the  eye  of  the  traveller  follows  down,  without  ob- 
struction or  abrupt  descent,  along  the  gradual  slope  of  the  valley  to  the  great  plains 
which  reach  the  Missouri.  The  straight  river  and  the  open  valley  form,  with  the 
plains  beyond,  one  great  slope,  without  a  hill  to  break  the  line  of  sight,  or  obstruct  the 

the  ri 


course  of  the  road.  On  either  side  of  this  line  hills  slope  easily  to  the  river,  with  lines 
of  timber  and  yellow  autumnal  grass  ;  and  the  water  which  flows  smoothly  between  ia 
not  interrupted  by  a  fall  in  its  course  to  the  ocean." 

Here  is  a  section  of  the  route  above  seven  hundred  miles  long  —  being 
more  than  half  the  distance  to  California  —  in  which  there  is  no  eleva- 
tion to  arrest  the  vision  —  in  which  you  might  look  down  the  wide  dis- 
tance, if  the  eyesight  was  long  enough,  and  see  the  frontier  of  Missouri 
from  the  mouth  of  the  first  pass  in  the  first  mountain,  being  more  than 
half  the  length  of  the  road.  This  would  do  for  a  start.  It  would  satisfy 
the  call  for  a  fair  surface  at  the  commencement.  This,first  pass  is  called 
the  Sand  Hill,  or  Roubidoux,  through  which  Fremont  entered  the  valley 
of  San  Luis  ;  and  the  way  so  low  and  level  as  to  be  seen  through.  And 
through  that  valley  and  its  continuation  (the  Sahwatch)  to  the  Coocha- 
tope  the  ground  is  so  smooth  as  to  present  no  exception  to  its  level  but 
the  natural  curvature  of  the  earth.  Meeting  a  man  on  horseback  in  this 
long  level  of  more  than  a  hundred  and  twenty  miles,  (counting  the  entire 
valleys  of  San  Luis  and  the  Sahwatch,)  is  like  meeting  a  ship  at  sea  ; 
you  s'ee  his  head  first,  then  his  body,  then  his  horse,  and  at  last  the  ground. 
The  pass  itself,  as  well  as  the  approaches  to  it,  is  perfect.  Fremont 
calls  it  "  an  open  easy  wagon  way."  Beale  and  Heap  say  it  was  a  ques- 
tion whether  they  had  passed  the  dividing  point  between  the  eastern  and 
western  waters,  which  could  only  be  answered  by  referring  to  the  water 
itself.  The  pass  itself,  of  which  they  made  a  drawing,  was  grand  and 
beautiful.  They  say  of  it,  "Lofty  mountains,  their  summits  covered 
with  eternal  snows,  lifted  their  heads  to  the  clouds  ;  while  in  our  imme- 
diate vicinity  were  softly-rounded  hills,  clothed  with  grass  and  flowers, 
with  rich  meadows  between  ;  through  which  numerous  rills  trickled  to 
join  their  waters  to  the  Coochatope  Creek."  But  why  multiply  words  to 
induce  conviction  when  facts  are  at  hand  to  command  it  "?  Facts  enough 
abound  to  show  the  facility  of  this  pass,  even  in  a  state  of  nature.  More 
than  40  loaded  wagons  went  through  it  in  the  summer  of  1853,  20  of 
them  guided  by  Leroux  for  Captain  Gunnison,  the  rest  by  emigrant  fam- 
ilies without  guides.  But  more  than  that,  the  buffaloes  have  travelled  it 
always  —  those  best  of  engineers,  whose  instinct  never  commits  a  mis- 
take, and  which  in  their  migrations  for  pasture,  shelter,  and  salt,  never 
fail  to  find  the  lowest  levels  in  the  mountains,  the  shallowest  fords  in  the 
rivers,  the  richest  grass,  the  best  salt  licks,  the  most  permanent  water,  and 


380 


always  take  the  shortest  and  best  routes  between  all  these  points  of  at- 
traction. These  instinctive  explorers  traverse  this  pass,  and  gave  it 
their  name  —  Coochatope  in  the  Utah  language ;  Puerto  del  Cibolos  in 
the  Spanish ;  which,  being  rendered  into  English,  signifies  the  Gate  of 
the  Buffaloes.  And  their  bones  and  horns,  strewing  the  ground,  attest 
their  former  numerous  presence  in  this  locality,  before  the  firearms  of 
modern  invention  had  come  to  their  destruction  at  such  a  crowded  point 
of  rendezvous.  This  is  enough  to  show  that  the  Rocky  Mountains  may 
be  passed  without  crossing  a  hill  —  that  loaded  wagons  may  cross  it  at 
all  seasons  of  the  year.  This  applies  to  the  Coochixtope  pass,  but  there 
are  many  others,  and  all  good  ;  and  it  is  curious  to  detect  the  Latin  lan- 
guage in  many  of  their  names,  put  upon  them  in  the  Spanish  translation 
of  the  original  Indian.  Thus  we  see  porta  inpuerto  (agate)  constant- 
ly recurring,  as  Puerto  del  Cibolos,  Puerto  del  fifoscd;  in  which  latter, 
besides  the  porta,  we  detect  the  Latin  musca,  (fly ;)  Anglice,  the  Pty  Gate, 
from  the  unusual  number  of  these  insects  which  the  Indians  found  in  it ; 
Puerto  del  Medio,  (medium,)  Middle  Gate,  &c.,  &c. ;  and  here  I  recapitu- 
late in  order  to  make  an  important  point  clear.  1.  From  the  Missouri 
frontier  to  the  first  pass,  in  the  first  mountain,  upwards  of  700  miles,  the 
way  is  so  smooth' and  straight  that  there  is  no  obstruction  to  the  vision. 
2.  Through  that  first  pass,  (the  Sand  Hill,)  eight  miles,  it  is  about  equally 
level,  but  the  line  of  sight  broken  by  the  deflection  through  the  moun- 
tain. 3.  Through  the  San  Luis  and  Sahwatch  valleys  to  the  Coo- 
chatope pass,  above  100  miles,  it  is  equally  level  and  straight ;  so  that 
from  Missouri  to  the  Coochatope,'  (above  800  miles,)  there  is  no  visible 
inequality  of  surface,  nor  any  thing  to  break  the  line  of  sight,  but  the 
deflection  of  eight  miles  through  the  Sand  Hill  pass  of  the  Sierra  Blanca. 

It  was  the  Baron  Alexander  Von  Humboldt  that  first  put  it*into  a 
book  that  the  buffaloes  were  the  best  of  civil  engineers.  He  put  it  into 
his  Aspects  of  Nature  ;  and  I  afterwards  put  the  same  into,  a  senatorial 
speech,  without  knowing  what  he  had  done ;  and,  true  to  the  facts,  we 
both  gave  the  same  examples  of  leading  roads  in  our  America,  first 
traced  by  the  buffaloes,  and  afterwards  followed  by  the  Indian  as  his 
war  path,  by  the  pioneer  white  man  as  his  wagon  road,  and  by  the  engi- 
neer as  his  McAdam  or  railroad  track.  Among  these  examples  we  both 
mentioned  the  buffalo  trail  from -the  Holston  Salt  Springs,  in  Virginia, 
to  the  rich  pastures  of  Kentucky,  through  the  Cumberland  Mountain 
Gap.  and  said  that  no  other  practicable  route  between  these  two  points 
had  yet  been  found.  In  fact,  all  the  country  people  knew  that  the  buffa- 
loes were  right  5  but  in  this  past  summer  of  1854  some  railroad  engineers 
undertook  to  find  a  better  and  shorter  road  between  the  Salt  Springs 
and  the  Cumberland  Gap.  They  tried  it,  got  cornered,  could  get  no 
farther,  had  to  perform  that  evolution  which,  in  the  vernacular  of  the 
west,  is  called  "  backing  out,"  had  to  return  to  the  salt  works,  take  the 
old  trail,  and  follow  the  buffaloes.  This  was  a  confirmation  of  Hum- 
boldt, and  a  triumph  of  instinct  over  science ;  and  we  shall  claim  the 
benefit  of  it  if  any  book-taught  engineer  shall  ever  have  the  temerity  to 
dispute  the  excellence  and  supremacy  of  the  Coochatope  pass. 

In  a  word,  there  is  no  difficulty  about  passes ;  the  only  bother  is  to 
choose  out  of  so  many,  all  so  good,  both  in  themselves  and  in  their  ap- 
proaches. This  is  enough  for  the  passes :  with  respect  to  the  whole 
mountain  region,  and  the  facility  of  going  through  it,  and  upon  different 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  381 


lines,  we  have  also  the  evidence  of  facts,  which  dispense  with  specula- 
tion and  assertion.  That  region  was  three  times  traversed,  and  on  dif- 
ferent routes,  by  Messrs.  Beale  and  Heap  in  the  summer  of  1853.  It 
happened  thus :  when  they  had  reached  the  east  fork  of  the  Great  Colo- 
rado of  the  West,  and  were  crossing  it,  they  lost,  by  the  accident  of  an 
overturned  canoe,  their  supply  of  munitions,  both  for  the  gun  and  the 
mouth,  and  were  forced  to  send  back  to  the  nearest  settlement  for  a  further 
supply.  That  nearest  settlement  was  Taos,  in  New  Mexico,  distant  330 
miles,  and  that  distance  to  be  made  upon  mules,  finding  their  own  food, 
which  had  already  travelled,  on  the  same  condition,  1000  miles  from  the 
frontier  of  Missouri,  and  these  mules  (thus  already  travelled  long  and 
hard,  without  other  food  than  the  grass  afforded)  now  made  the  double 
distance  at  the  rate  of  40  miles  a  day,  still  finding  their  own  food,  and, 
on  the  return,  bringing  packs  on  their  backs.  This  performance  must 
stand  for  a  proof  that  the  whole  mountain  region  between  the  Upper  Colo- 
rado and  the  valley  of  the  Upper  Del  Norte  is  well  adapted  to  travel- 
ling, and  that  in  a  state  of  nature,  and  also  well  supplied  with  nutritious 
grass.  The  experience  of  Captain  Gunnison  was  to  the  same  effect. 
His  twenty  wagons,  guided  by  Leroux,  and  without  the-  benefit  of  pio- 
neers to  remove  obstructions,  and  making  circuits  to  avoid  impediments 
which  a  fatigue  party  should  have  removed,  still  made  the  distance  be- 
tween the  Del  Norte  and  the  Upper  Colorado  (300  miles)  in  22  days, 
averaging  nearly  15  miles  to  the  day,  (and  government  wagons  at  that, 
never  known  to  be  in  a  hurry,)  being  the  usual  rate  of  wagon  travel  on 
our  country  roads,  the  teams  arriving  at  the  Colorado  fatter  than  they 
had  left  the  Del  Norte,  and  without  other  food  than  the  grass  on  the 
way ;  and  this  clears  us  of  the  Kocky  Mountains,  from  which  to  the 
Little  Salt  Lake  it  is  all  an  open,  practicable  way,  not  limited  to  a  track, 
but  traversable  on  any  line.  Loaded  wagons  travel  it  in  a  state  of 
nature.  The  valley  of  the  Colorado  is  either  level  or  rolling ;  the  Wah- 
satch  and  Anterria  ranges  are  perforated  by  incessant  valleys,  and  from 
the  Little  Salt  Lake  to  the  Great  Sierra  Nevada,  as  explored  by  Fre- 
mont last  winter,  the  way  is  nearly  level  —  a  succession  of  valleys 
between  the  mountains,  perfectly  adapted  to  artesian  wells,  and  termi- 
nated by  a  superb  pass  debouching  into  the  valley  of  San  Joaquin.  Fre- 
mont, referring  to  previous  Indian  information,  says  of  it,  — 

"When  the  point  was  reached,  I  found  the  Indian  information  fully  verified:  the 
mountain  suddenly  terminated,  and  broke  down  into  lower  grounds,  barely  above  the 
level  of  the  country,  and  making  numerous  openings  into  the  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin. 
I  entered  into  the  first  which  offered,  (taking  no  time  to  search,  as  we  were  entirely 
out  of  provisions,  and  living  upon  horses,)  which  led  us  by  an  open  and  almost  level 
hollow  13  miles  long  to  an  upland,  not  steep  enough  to  be  called  a  hill,  over  into  the 
valley  of  a  small  afliuent  to  Kern  River,  the  hollow  and  the  valley  making  together  a 
way  where  a  wagon  would  not  find  any  obstruction  for  40  miles." 

The  discovery  of  this  pass  was  the  "  crowning  mercy  "  of  this  adven- 
turous winter  expedition.  It  was  the  cherished  desideratum  of  the  cen- 
tral route.  It  fulfilled  its  last  condition.  It  gives  nearly  a  straight  line 
from  the  Little  Salt  Lake  to  the  Sierra  Nevada,  with  a  good  pass  into 
the  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin.  It  cuts  off  the  elbow  which  the  old  Los 
Angeles  trail  makes  to  the  south-west.  It  avoids  the  desert  on  that 
route.  It  leaves  far  to  the  south  those  excitable  fields  of  roving  sands 
which  infest  the  New  San-  Diego  route  —  sands  which  creep,  like  an 


382       THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 


army  of  pis-ants,  under  a  gentle  breeze,  which  bury  the  traveller  who 
lies  down  to  sleep  on  them  when  there  is  a  little  wind,  unless  he  rises 
and  shakes  himself  often  daring  the  night ;  in  which  no  number  of 
horses  can  leave  a  track ;  in  which  the  hillock  of  to-day  is  a  hole  in  the 
ground  to-morrow ;  and  which,  in  high  winds,  is  a  driving  tempest  of 
silicious  particles,  very  cutting  to  the  eyes  and  skin,  very  suffocating 
to  the  throat,  very  dangerous  to  those  who  are  not  tall  and  swift,  and 
from  which  man  and  beast  fly  for  life ;  and  all  which  West  Point  science 
proposes  to  overcome  by  a  profuse  application  of  federal  dollars.  All 
this  is  avoided  by  the  short  and  straight  route  west  from  the  Little 
Salt  Lake  discovered  by  Fremont  in  his  winter  expedition  of  1853-'54. 
And  this  completes  all  that  is  necessary  to  be  shown  in  favor  of  the 
smoothness  of  the  way  —  its  equality  of  surface  throughout  the  whole 
line ;  although  it  attains  a  great  elevation,  and  lands  you  in  California, 
in  the  rich  and  settled  valley  of  San  Joaquin,  proximate  to  the  southern 
end  of  the  gold  mines.  Not  a  tunnel  to  be  made,  a  mountain  to  be 
climbed,  a  hill  to  be  crossed,  a  swamp  to  be  seen,  or  desert  or  movable 
sand  to  be  encountered,  in  the  whole  distance,  and  all  this  equality  of 
surface  barometrically  determined  by  Fremont  as  well  as  visibly  seen  by 
his  eye ;  so  that  this  line  for  a  road,  the  longest  and  straightest  in  the 
world,  is  also  over  the  smoothest  and  most  equal  surface.  For,  al- 
though a  great  elevation  is  attained,  it  is  on  a  long  line,  and  gradually 
and  imperceptibly,  the  mere  rise  of  an  inclined  plane. 

Eivers  to  be  passed  are  obstructions  to  roads,  to  be  overcome  by  large 
applications  of  skill  and  means ;  and  here  again  the  central  route  is  most 
favorable.  The  entire  line  is  only  crossed  in  its  course  by  the  streams 
in  the  valley  of  the  Upper  Colorado,  and  those  of  inconsiderable  width, 
with  solid  banks,  and  stone  for  bridges.  On  this  side  of  the  Kocky 
Mountains  the  course  of  the  rivers  is  parallel  to  that  of  the  road ;  the 
Kanzas,  the  Arkansas,  and  the  Huerfano  being  all  in  its  line.  Beyond 
the  valley  of  the  Colorado,  no  river  at  all,  only  small  streams. 

Mr.  McClanahan,  and  others  whose  statements  have  been  given,  have 
attested  the  supreme  excellence  of  the  route  for  the  road  from  Missouri 
as  far  as  the  San  Luis  valley,  and  that  upon  experiment  with  wagons, 
carriages,  flocks,  and  herds.  It  only  remains  to  produce  the  same  kind 
of  testimony  in  behalf  of  the  remaining  part  of  the  way,  from  that 
valley  to  California ;  and  that  testimony  is  at  hand.  Mr.  R.  S.  Wootten, 
of  New  Mexico,  a  large  dealer  in  stock  to  California,  and  who  drove 
8000  sheep  there  in  the  summer  of  1853,  thus  writes  in  a  letter  which  he 
gave  responsibly  to  the  public :  — 

"  During  the  last  year  I  have  taken  a  drove  of  sheep  from  this  place  (Taos)  to  Cali- 
fornia over  the  route  that  Colonel  Fremont  intended  to  have  gone  in  the  winter  of 
184S-'49,  at  the  time  of  his  disaster.  I  made  the  trip  through  to  California  in  90  days, 
arriving  there  with  my  sheep  in  good  order,  having  passed  through  some  of  the  finest 
country  I  ever  saw,  and  had  good  camps,  and  plenty  of  wood,  water,  and  grass  every 
night  during  the  whole  trip.  There  is  now  being  commenced  a  settlement  on  the 
Arkansas  River,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Huerfano,  at  which  emigrants  can  procure  such 
necessaries  as  they  may  be  in  want  of.  and  also  at  the  Mormon  settlements  at  Little 
Salt  Lake.  There  is  also  a  good  ferry  at  the  mouth  of  the  Huerfano.  and  ferries  will 
also  be  established  during  the  coming  summer  on  Grand  River  and  Green  River,  (Up- 
per Colorado.)  There  is  also  another  great  advantage  that  this  route  has  over  a  more 
northern  one,  as  emigrants  may  leave  Missouri  as  late  as  the  1st  of  August,  and  there 
is  no  danger  of  being  stopped  by  snow.  After  reaching  the  great  Spanish  trail  in  the 
valley  of  Green  River,  (Upper  Colorado,)  from  thence  to  California  there  is  never  any 
Bnow.  and  the  months  of  October  and  November  are  more  pleasant  to  travel,  and  better 
for  stock,  than  the  summer  months." 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  383 


This  is  the  testimony  of  experience,  of  actual  experiment,  in  all  the 
country  of  the  mountains ;  in  all  the  region  from  the  Rocky  Mountains 
out,  supposed  by  some  to  be  so  sterile,  so  rugged,  so  savage,  so  imprac- 
ticable ;  proved  to  be  so  fine  that  sheep  find  camps  when  they  please, 
and  they  only  make  ten  miles  a  day,  and  fatten  upon  their  travel.  And 
the  settlers  already  commenced  settlements  all  along,  and  proceeding 
rapidly.  What  was  one  man  at  the  mouth  of  the  Huerfano  in  1853, 
was  forty  in  the  spring  of  1854,  all  raising  crops.  Other  settlements 
skirt  the  road,  as  that  of  200  families  in  the  valley  of  San  Luis,  and  the 
pueblos  San  Carlos,  Cuerno  Verde,  and  others  above  Bent's  Fort  on  the 
extreme  Upper  Arkansas. 

This  finishes  the  testimony  which  time  permits  to  be  now  produced  in 
favor  of  the  excellence  of  the  country ;  in  fact,  its  surpassing  beauty  and 
great  superiority.  It  is  as  full  and  complete  as  the  law  of  evidence  re- 
quires any  testimony  in  such  a  case  to  be.  Still  there  may  be  persons 
to  impugn  it,  and  to  cry  down  the  country.  That  is  an  old  business,  as 
old  as  Moses  and  the  twelve  messengers  which  he  sent  from  the  wilder- 
ness of  Paran  to  spy  out  the  promised  land,  and  ten  of  which  made  an 
u  evil  report "  of  the  country,  and  stirred  up  the  mutiny  against  Moses 
which  continued  forty  days,  and  for  the  punishment  of  which  the  rebel- 
lious children  were  detained  forty  years  in  the  wilderness.  This  is  what 
happened  to  the  promised  land,  and  it  is  not  to  be  expected  that  the  dis- 
tant and  unknown  countries  of  the  Great  West  are  to  fare  better.  They 
also  must  expect  to  be  evilly  reported  upon ;  but  truth  is  powerful  and 
must  prevail,  even  where  two  stand  against  ten,  as  in  the  question  be- 
tween the  messengers  of  Moses,  and  still  more  in  the  case  of  multitudes 
against  units,  as  will  be  the  way  in  the  case  of  evil  reports  of  this  far 
distant  West ;  especially  as  the  country  will  stand  to  vindicate  itself  and 
the  truth.  That  is  the  last  and  greatest  witness,  the  country  itself  — 
work  of  God — standing  where  he  placed  it,  exhibiting  itself  as  it  is, 
and  ready  to  cover  with  shame  the  faint-hearted  wanderers  who,  to  get 
an  excuse  to  return  to  the  flesh-pots  of  Egypt,  are  forever  discovering  a 
"  lion  in  the  path." 

I  deem  myself  justified  to  develop,  with  some  more  detail,  but  one  of 
the  road  advantages  possessed  by  this  route  —  an  advantage  often  men- 
tioned, but  not  sufficiently  enforced.  It  is  that  of  coal,  so  valuable  under 
every  aspect,  and  so  indispensable  to  railroads  when  in  prairies.  It  ex- 
ists in  superfluous  abundance  all  along  this  line.  Commencing  in  those 
coal  fields  in  the  west  of  Missouri  which  geologists  compute  to  be  of 
20,000  square  miles'  extent,  it  is  found  all  along  the  Kanzas  Eiver,  on 
the  Upper  Kanzas,  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  in  the  valley  of  the  Upper 
Colorado,  at  the  western  base  of  the  Wahsatch  and  Anterria  ranges, 
thus  known  at  present  from  its  own  exhibition  of  itself,  cropping  out  from 
the  bluffs  of  rivers  and  the  banks  of  ravines.  How  much  remains  to  be 
discovered  when  so  much  shows  itself  spontaneously  ?  Really,  it  seems 
like  "  carrying  coals  to  Newcastle,"  to  tell  of  coal  on  this  route. 

The  proposed  central  route  is  intended  to  be  a  straight  line,  turned 
aside  by  no  obstacle,  and  seduced  from  its  course  by  no  lateral  interest. 
But  it  will  be  a  road  for  the  accommodation  of  the  whole  broad  expanse 
of  the  country,  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Pacific  Ocean.  Branches 
striking  out  like  ribs  from  the  spine,  would  reach  every  settlement  — 
Northern  Missouri  and  Iowa  from  a  point  on  the  Upper  Kanzas,  New 


384        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

Mexico  from  a  point  on  the  Upper  Arkansas,  the  Great  Salt  Lake  from 
a  point  on  the  upper  valley  of  the  Colorado,  and  thence  on  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Columbia,  and  Los  Angeles  and  Southern  California  from  a  point 
on  the  Little  Salt  Lake  and 'Santa  Clara  settlements.  All  these  places 
would  be  conveniently  reached  by  branch  roads,  while  the  great  trunk 
would  follow  its  direct  course  — best  for  itself  arid  for  them  —  from  Mis- 
souri to  California,  debouching  at  each  end  into  the  midst  of  business 
populations,  and  connecting  with  steamboat  navigation  and  all  the  state 
improvements.  And  its  settlement  would  be  magic.  The  line  once  in- 
dicated, and  the  enterprising  emigrants  of  our  America  would  flock 
upon  it  as  pigeons  to  their  roosts,  tear  open  the  bosom  of  the  virgin  soil, 
and  spring  into  existence  the  long  line  of  farms  and  houses,  of  towns 
and  villages,  of  orchards,  fields,  and  gardens,  of  churches,  and  school- 
houses,  of  noisy  shops,  clattering  mills,  and  thundering  forges,  and  all 
that  civilization  affords  to  enliven  the  wild  domain  from  the  Mississippi 
to  the  Pacific ;  to  give  protection  and  employment  to  the  road,  and  to 
balance  the  populous  communitie's  in  the  eastern  half  of  the  Union  by 
equal  populations  on  its  western  half. 

In  this  description  of  the  country  I  have  relied  chiefly  on  Fremont, 
whose  exploration,  directed  by  no  authority,  connected  with  no  company, 
swayed  by  no  interest,  wholly  guided  by  himself,  and  solely  directed  to 
the  public  good,  would  be  entitled  to  credit  upon  his  own  report,  unsup- 
ported by  subsidiary  evidence ;  but  he  has  not  left  the  credit  of  his  re- 
port to  his  word  alone.  He  has  done  besides  what  no  other  explorer 
had  done  ;  he  has  made  the  country  report  itself.  Besides  determining 
elevations  barometrically,  and  fixing  positions  astronomically,  and  meas- 
uring objects  with  a  practised  eye ;  besides  all  that,  he  has  applied  the 
daguerreotype  art  to  the  face  of  the  wild  domain,  and  made  it  speak  for 
itself.  Three  hundred  of  these  views  illustrate  the  path  of  his  explora- 
tion, and  compel  every  object  to  stand  forth  and  show  itself  as  it  is, 
or  was  —  mountain,  gap,  plain,  rock,  forest,  grass,  snow,  (where  there  is 
any, )  and  naked  ground  where  there  is  not ;  all  exhibit  themselves  as 
they  are  ;  for  Daguerre  has  no  power  to  conceal  what  is  visible,  or  to  ex- 
hibit what  is  unseen.  If  the  "  wart "  is  there,  he  needs  no  admonition 
to  show  it,  and  could  not  suppress  it.  He  uses  no  pencil  to  substitute 
fiction  for  fact,  or  fancy  for  memory.  He  is  a  machine  that  works  to  a 
pattern,  and  that  pattern  the  object  before  him  ;  and  in  this  way  has  Fre- 
mont reproduced  the  country  from  the  Mississippi  to  the  Pacific,  and 
made  it  become  the  reflex  of  its  own  features,  and  the  exhibitor  of  its  own 
face,  present  and  viewable  to  every  beholder  ;  and  that  nothing  may  be 
wanting  to  complete  the  information  on  a  subject  of  such  magnitude,  he 
has  now  gone  back  to  give  the  finishing  look  at  the  west  end  of  the  line, 
which  30,000  miles  of  wilderness  explorations  in  the  last  twelve  years  (all 
at  his  own  solicitation,  and  the  last  half  at  his  own  cost)  authorize  him  to 
believe  is  the  true  and  good  route  for  the  road  which  is  to  unite  the  Atlan- 
tic and  the  Pacific,  and  to  give  a  new  channel  to  the  commerce  of  Asia. 

All  the  other  requisites  for  the  construction  and  maintenance  of  a  road, 
and  to  give  it  employment  when  done,  have  been  shown  in  the  view  of 
the  country  —  wood,  water,  stone,  coal,  iron;  rich  soil  to  build  up  set- 
tlements and  cities,  to  give  local  business  and  travel  all  along  its  course, 
as  well  as  at  the  great  terminating  points,  and  to  protect  it  without  govern- 
ment troops.  Add  to  this,  picturesque  scenery  and  an  entire  region  of 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  385 


unsurpassed  salubrity.  This  quality  of  the  route,  salubrity,  requires  a 
special  notice.  Fremont  says  of  it,  ".  It  is  a  healthy  route.  No  diseases  of 
any  kind  upon  it,  and  the  valetudinarian  might  travel  it  in  his  own  vehicle, 
or  on  horse,or  even  on  foot,  for  the  mere  recovery  of  spirits  and  restora- 
tion of  health."  This  is  what  Fremont  says,  and  he  ought  to  know, 
traversing  the  region  as  he  has  done  for  twelve  years,  and  never  having 
a  physician  with  him,  nor  losing  a  man  by  sickness.  And  all  his  moun- 
tain comrades,  sojourners,  of  20,  30,  40  years  in  this  wild  domain,  report 
the  same  thing.  Salubrity  s  then,  is  one  of  the  eminent  recommendatory 
qualities  of  the  central  route.  The  whole  route  for  the  road  between 
the  States  of  Missouri  and  California  is  good ;  not  only  good,  but  su- 
premely excellent ;  and  it  is  helped  out  at  each  end  by  water  lines  of 
transportation,  now  actually  existing,  and  by  railways,  projected  or  in 
progress.  At  the  Missouri  end  there  is  a  railway  in  construction  to  the 
line  of  the  state,  and  steamboat  navigation  to  the  mouth  of  the  Kanzas, 
and  up  that  river  some  hundred  miles  ;  at  the  California  end  there  is  the 
like  navigation  up  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  and  the  San  Joaquin  River, 
and  a  railway  projected.  And  thus  this  central  route  would  be  helped 
out  at  once  by  some  300  miles  at  each  end,  connecting  it  with  the 
great  business  populations  of  California  and  Missouri,  at  which  latter 
point  it  would  be  in  central  communication  with  the  great  business 
population  of  the  Union. 

People  now  travel  it  and  praise  it ;  buffaloes  travel  it,  and  repeat  their 
travel,  which  is  their  praise.  The  federal  government  only  seems*  to 
eschew  it,  and  lean  to  outside  routes  —  one  by  Canada,  which  the  Cana- 
dian provincial  parliament  appears  to  be  now  adopting  for  its  own  ;  and 
one  through  old  Mexico,  which  Santa  Anna  might  adopt,  if  he  had  any 
commerce  ;  and  upon  neither  of  which  is  seen  a  buffalo  track,  or  a  vol- 
untary white  man's  track  going  to  California,  where  no  white  man  goes 
to  get  to  California,  except  under  the  orders  and  at  the  expense  of  gov- 
ernment, and  where  no  buffalo  could  be  made  to  go,  even  by  the  power 
of  the  government.  That  sensible  old  animal  would  die  before  he  would 
be  made  such  a  fool  of  as  to  be  conducted  to  the  Sacramento,  or  San 
Joaquin,  or  San  Francisco,  via  the  hyperborean  region  of  Upper  Cana- 
da and  New  Caledonia,  or  via  the  burning  deserts  of  Sonora  and  Chi- 
huahua. The  central  route  is  the  free  choice  of  men  and  buffaloes,  and 
is  good  for  all  sorts  of  roads,  and  in  all  seasons.  Its  straightness  of 
course  will  enable  the  car  to  more  than  double  its  speed,  and  consequent- 
ly earn  its  money  in  half  the  time.  The  smoothness  of  its  course  is  but 
little  interrupted  by  its  ascents  or  descents ;  for  they  are  gradual,  and 
distributed  over  long  distances ;  and  the  whole  country  between  the 
Rocky  Mountains  and  the  Sierra  Nevada,  is  at  the  general  level  of  5000 
feet,  the  greatest  descent  being  from  the  Sierra  Nevada  to  the  level  of  the 
sea;  and  that  may  distribute  itself  for  the  road  over  some  hundred  miles. 

And  now  I  hold  it  to  be  in  order  of  human  events,  in  the  regular  pro- 
gression of  human  affairs,  that  the  road  will  be  built,  and  that  soon ; 
not  by  public,  but  private  means,  by  a  company  of  solid  men,  asking 
nothing  of  Congress  but  the  right  of  way  through  the  public  lands,  and 
fair  pay  for  good  service  in  carrying  mails,  troops,  government  officials, 
and  munitions  of  war.  Such  an  enterprise  is  worthy  of  enlightened 
capitalists,  who  know  how  to  combine  private  advantage  with  public 
good,  and  who  feel  a  laudable  desire  to  connect  their  names  with  a  mon- 

33 


386       THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 


nmental  enterprise  more  useful  than  the  pursuits  of  political  ambition, 
more  glorious  than  the  conquest  of  nations,  more  durable  than  the  pyra- 
mids, and  which,  being  finished,  is  to  change  the  face  of  the  commercial 
world,  and  all  to  the  advantage  of  our  America. 

The  road  will  be  made,  and  soon,  and  by  individual  enterprise.  The 
age  is  progressive  and  utilitarian.  It  abounds  with  talent  seeking  em- 
ployment, and  with  capital  seeking  investment.  The  temptation  is  irre- 
sistible. To  reach  the  golden  California,  to  put  the  populations  of  the 
Atlantic,  the  Pacific,  and  the  Mississippi  Valley  into  direct  communica- 
tion, to  connect  Europe  and  Asia  through  our  America,  and  to  own  a 
road  of  our  own  to  the  East  Indies ;  such  is  the  grandeur  of  the  enter- 
prise, and  the  time  has  arrived  to  begin  it.  The  country  is  open  to 
settlement,  and  inviting  it,  and  receiving  it.  The  world  is  in  motion, 
following  the  track  of  the  sun  to  its  dip  in  the  western  ocean.  West- 
ward the  torrents  of  emigration  direct  their  course,  and  soon  the  country 
between  Missouri  and  California  is  to  show  the  most  rapid  expansion 
of  the  human  race  that  the  ages  of  man  have  ever  beheld.  It  will  all  be 
settled  up,  and  that  with  magical  rapidity ;  settlements  will  promote  the 
road,  the  road  will  aggrandize  the  settlements.  Soon  it  will  be  a  line  of 
towns,  cities,  villages,  and  farms.  And  rich  will  be  the  man  that  may  own 
some  quarter  section  on  its  track,  or  some  squares  in  the  cities  which 
are  to  grow  upon  it. 

But  the  road  beyond  the  Mississippi  is  only  the  half  of  the  whole ;  the 
other  half  is  on  this  side,  and  either  in  progress  or  completed.  Behold 
your  own  extended  iron  ways,  departing  from  this  city  to  go  west 
towards  the  lakes  and  the  great  rivers,  to  join  the  great  western  trunk,  now 
almost  finished  through  Cincinnati,  Vincennes,  St.  Louis,  there  to  find 
the  Pacific  road  in  progress  to  the  western  limit  of  Missouri.  Behold 
the  lateral  roads  from  Pennsylvania,  New  England,  New  York,  all  point- 
ing to  the  west,  and  converging  to  the  same  central  track.  And  behold 
the  diagonal  central  road  of  Virginia,  to  traverse  the  state  from  its 
south-east  to  its  north-west  corner,  already  finished  beyond  the  Blue 
Ridge,  and  its  advanced  pioneers  descending  the  Alleghany  Mountain, 
to  arrive  at  the  mouth  of  Big  Sandy,  in  the  very  latitude  of  St.  Louis, 
San  Francisco,  and  Baltimore,  and  there  to  join  the  same  great  central 
western  trunk.  And  the  Blue  Ridge  road  of  South  Carolina,  bound  upon 
the  same  destination,  and  the  roads  of  Georgia  pointing  and  advancing  to 
the  north-west.  What  is  the  destiny  of  all  these  Atlantic  roads,  thus 
pointing  to  the  west,  and  converging  upon  the  central  track,  the  whole 
course  of  which  lies  through  the  centre  of  our  Union,  and  through  the 
centre  of  its  population,  wealth,  and  power,  and  one  end  of  which  points 
to  Canton  and  Jeddo,  the  other  to  London  and  Paris  —  what  will  those 
lateral  roads  become,  in  addition  to  their  original  destination  ?  They 
will  become  parts  of  a  system,  bringing  our  Atlantic  cities  nearer  to  .the 
Pacific  coast  than  they  were  to  the  Blue  Ridge  and  the  Ohio  in  the  time 
of  canals  and  turnpikes.  And  what  then  ?  The  great  idea  of  Colum- 
bus will  be  realized,  though  in  a  different  and  a  more  beneficent  form. 
Eastern  Asia  is  reached  by  going  west,  and  by  a  road  of  which  we  hold 
the  key  ;  and  the  channel  of  Asiatic  commerce,  which  has  been  shifting 
its  bed  from  the  time  of  Solomon,  and  raising  up  cities  and  kingdoms 
wherever  it  went,  (to  perish  when  it  left  them,)  changing  its  channel 
for  the  last  time,  to  become  fixed  upon  its  shortest,  safest,  best,  and 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  387 


quickest  route,  through  the  heart  of  our  America,  and  to  revive  along  its 
course  the  Tyres,  and  Sidons,  the  Balbecs,  Palmyras,  and  Alexandrias, 
once  the  seat  of  commerce  and  empire,  and  the  ruins  of  which  still  at- 
test their  former  magnificence,  and  excite  the  wonder  of  the  Oriental 
traveller. 

This  great  central  trunk  road  from  Baltimore  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Kanzas,  along  the  parallel  of  39°,  is  already  almost  finished,  and  for 
all  the  purposes  of  its  continuation  from  Missouri  to  California,  may  be 
assumed  to  be  now  finished ;  for  it  will  be  completely  so  before  any  part 
of  the  other  is  ready  to  join  it.  It  is  now  complete  to  the  Ohio  River, 
complete  to  Cincinnati,  complete  through  the  State  of  Ohio ;  complete 
half  way  through  Indiana,  and  the  other  half  in  progress ;  complete  half 
way  through  Illinois,  and  the  other  half  in  progress ;  complete  (near- 
ly) one  third  of  the  way  through  Missouri,  and  all  the  rest  under  con- 
tract, and  under  the  daily  energies  of  two  thousand  laborers,  led  by  a 
most  energetic  contractor.  We  may  assume,  then,  the  great  western 
trunk  road  to  be  finished  from  Atlantic  tide  water  to  the  western  limit 
of  Missouri;  that  is  to  say,  half  way  to  the  Pacific,  and  to  the  com- 
mencement of  that  vast  inclined  prairie  plain  which  spreads  from  the 
Missouri  frontier  more  than  half  the  distance  of  the  remaining  half,  and 
which  is  nearly  prepared  by  the  hajid  of  Nature  for  the  immediate  recep- 
tion of  the  iron  rails  and  their  solid  foundations.  What  a  temptation 
for  a  company  to  begin  the  great  work  when  so  much  is  done  to  their 
hand,  and  so  much  of  the  remainder  is  so  easy  to  be  done !  and  then, 
how  advanced  all  the  Atlantic  and  Mississippi  Valley  connections  with 
this  great  western  trunk  !  On  the  Atlantic  side,  from  Maine  to  Georgia, 
from  Bangor,  on  the  Penobscot,  in  the  State  of  Maine,  to  the  State  of 
Georgia,  a  man  may  now  go  by  car  to  that  central  trunk  in  Ohio  and 
Indiana ;  from  the  southern  shores  of  the  northern  lakes  he  can  do  the 
same ;  from  the  borders  of  the  southern  gulf  he  can  partly  do  it.  Soon 
all  will  be  complete,  and  every  part  of  the  Atlantic  States  and  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi Valley  be  ready  to  go  into  communication  with  the  Pacific  Ocean 
as  soon  as  the  trunk  is  completed  from  Missouri  to  California. 

Telegraphic  lines  are  ready  at  both  ends.  In  California  they  extend 
over  the  state,  into  the  valleys  of  San  Joaquin  and  Sacramento,  and 
would  be  ready  to  meet  the  road  at  the  state  line.  On  this  end,  the  wires 
now  extend  to  the  western  limit  of  Missouri  —  to  the  mouth  of  Kanzas 
—  from  which  point  intelligence  can  now  be  flashed  to  every  part  of  the 
Union ;  so  that,  on  this  central  route,  there  is  only  a  gap  to  be  filled  up 
to  complete  these  magic  communications  between  the  shores  of  the  two 
great  oceans. 

This  is  the  object !  that -road,  compared  to  which,  those  "  Appian  and 
Flaminian  Ways,"  which  have  given  immortality  to  their  authors,  are 
but  as  dots  to  lengthened  lines  —  as  sands  to  mountains  —  as  grains  of 
mustard  to  the  full  grown  tree.  Besides  the  advantages  to  our  Union  in 
opening  direct  communication  with  that  golden  California,  which  com- 
pletes our  extended  dominion  towards  the  setting  sun,  and  a  road  to 
which  would  be  the  realization  of  the  Roman  idea  of  annexation,  that  no 
conquest  was  annexed  until  reached  and  pervaded  by  a  road;  besides  the  ob- 
vious advantages,  social,  political,  commercial,  of  this  communication, 
another  transcendental  object  presents  itself!  That  Oriental  commerce 
which  nations  have  sought  for,  and  fought  for,  from  the  time  of  the  Phe- 


388        THE  GARDEN  OP  THE  WORLD,  OR 

nicians  to  the  discovery  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  —  which  was  carried 
on  over  lines  so  extended  —  by  conveyances  so  slow  and  limited  — 
amidst  populations  so  various  and  barbarous,  and  which  considered  the 
merchant  their  lawful  prey —  and  up  and  down  rapid  rivers,  and  across 
strange  seas,  and  through  wide  and  frightful  deserts  ;  —  and  which,  under 
all  these  perils,  burdens,  discouragements,  converted  Asiatic  and  African 
cities  into  seats  of  wealth  and  empire  —  centres  of  the  arts  and  sciences 
—  while  Western  Europe  was  yet  barbarian ;  and  some  branches  of  which 
afterwards  lit  up  Venice,  and  Genoa,  and  Florence,  and  made  commer- 
cial cities  the  match  for  empires,  and  the  wives  and  daughters  of  their 
citizens  (in  their  luxurious,  Oriental  attire)  the  admiration  and  the  envy 
of  queens  and  princesses.  All  this  commerce,  and  in  a  deeper  and 
broader  stream  than  the  "  merchant  princes  "  ever  saw,  is  now  within  our 
reach  !  attainable  by  a  road  all  the  way  on  our  own  soil,  and  under  our 
own  laws ;  to  be  flown  over  by  a  vehicle  as  much  superior  in  speed  and 
capacity  to  the  steamboat  as  the  boat  is  to  the  sh jp,  and,  the  ship  to  the 
camel.  Thanks  to  the  progress  of  the  mechanic  arts  !  which  are  going 
on  continually,  converting  into  facilities  what  stood  as  obstacles  in  the 
way  of  national  communications.  To  the  savage,  the  sea  was  an  obsta- 
cle :  mechanical  genius,  in  the  invention  of  the  ship,  made  it  a  facility. 
The  firm  land  was  what  the  barbarian  wanted  :  the  land  became  an  ob- 
stacle to  the  civilized  man,  and  remained  so  until  the  steam  car  was  in- 
vented. Now  the  land  becomes  the  facility  again  —  the  preferred  element 
of  passage  —  and  admitting  a  velocity  in  its  steam  car  which  rivals  the 
flight  of  the  carrier  pigeon,  and  a  punctuality  oS  arrival  which  may 
serve  for  the  adjustment  of  clocks  and  watches.  To  say  nothing  of  its 
accompaniment  —  the  magnetic  telegraph,  which  flashes  intelligence 
across  a  continent,  and  exchanges  messages  between  kingdoms  in  the 
twinkling  of  an  eye ;  and  compared  to  which  the  flying  car  degener- 
ates into  a  lazy,  lagging,  creeping  John  Trot  of  a  traveller,  arriving 
with  his  news  after  it  had  become  stale  with  age. 

All  this  commerce,  in  a  stream  so  much  larger,  with  a  domestic  road 
for  its  track,  your  own  laws  to  protect  it,  with  conveyances  so  rapid,  and 
security  so  complete,  lies  at  your  acceptance.  That  which  Jew  and  Gen- 
tile fought  for  before  the  age  of  Christianity,  and  for  which  Christians 
have  fought  both  Jew  and  Gentile,  and  fought  each  other,  and  with  the 
Saracen  for  an  ally ;  all  this  is  now  at  your  acceptance,  and  by  the  be- 
neficent process  of  making  a  road,  which,  when  made,  will  be  a  private 
fortune,  as  well  as  a  public  benefaction  —  a  facility  for  individuals  as 
well  as  for  the  government.  Any  other  nation,  upon  half  a  pretext, 
would  go  to  war  for  such  a  road,  and  tax  unborn  generations  for  its 
completion.  We  may  have  it  without  war,  without  tax,  without  treaty 
with  any  nation;  and  when  we  make  it,  all  nations  must  travel  it,  with 
our  permission,  and  behave  well  to  receive  permission,  or  fall  behind  and 
lose  the  trade  by  following  the  old  track  ;  giving  us  a  bond  in  the  use  of 
our  road  for  their  peaceable  behavior.  Twenty-five  centuries  have  fought 
for  the  commercial  road  to  India ;  we  have  it  as  a  peaceable  possession. 
Shall  we  use  it  ?  or  wear  out  our  lives  in  strife  and  bitterness,  wrangling 
over  a  miserable  topic  of  domestic  contention,  while  a  glorious  prize  lies 
neglected  before  us?  Vasco  de  Gama  —  in  the  discovery  of  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope,  and  the  opening  of  a  new  route  to  India,  independent  of 
Mussulman  power  —  eclipsed,  in  his  day,  the  glory  of  Columbus,  balked 


THE   GREAT   WEST.  389 


in  the  discovery  of  his  well-divined  route  by  the  intervention  of  a  new 
world.  Let  us  vindicate  the  glory  of  Columbus  by  realizing  his  divine 
idea  of  arriving  in  the  east  by  going  to  the  west. 

The  enterprise  would  be  a  trifle  to  the  wealth  and  resources  of  our 
business  population  —  only  some  1300  miles  of  road  over  ground  the 
most  favorable,  and  under  skies  the  most  auspicious,  and  with  material 
the  most  abundant  and  convenient ;  and  the  prices  of  labor  and  of  iron 
returning  to  reasonable  rates.  More  than  half  the  distance  is  smooth 
prairie,  to  cost  no  more  than  railways  in  the  prairies  of  Illinois :  the 
remainder  is  nearly  level  —  only  slight  undulations  —  with  an  almost 
total  exemption  from  the  high  cuttings,  deep  fillings  up,  long  bridgings 
and  tunnelings,  which  constitute  the  gravity  of  the  expense  of  railroad 
making.  Say  a  fourth  more  than  the  cost  of  Illinois  prairie  road,  (the 
wide  gauge  being  understood, )  and  you  have  but  $20.000  to  the  mile  — 
$26,000,000  for  the  whole.  What  is  that  to  the  resources  of  our  busi- 
ness populations  ?  There  are  many  26  men  in  our  extended  Union  who 
could  build  the  road  themselves,  and  own  it,  as  their  private  and  princely 
estate,  themselves  and  their  posterity  after  them. 

Safety  as  well  as  profit,  security  as  well  as  policy,  protection  against 
calamity  as  well  as  prospective  good,  require  the  construction  of  this 
road.  What  sustains  and  stimulates  the  national  industry  at  this  time  ? 
California  gold  !  that  gold,  the  weekly  arrival  of  which  is  the  life's  blood 
of  our  daily  industry  !  and  one  month's  default  of  which  would  be  the 
paralysis  of  our  financial,  commercial,  and  industrial  world.  And  how 
do  we  receive  that  gold  now  ?  Over  foreign  seas,  and  across  foreign 
territory,  and  after  a  circuit  of  6000  miles  —  liable  to  be  cut  off  at  any 
moment  by  the  cruisers  and  privateers  (to  say  nothing  of  fleets)  of  any 
power  with  which  we  might  be  at  war ;  and  several  specks  of  that  porten- 
tous cloud  now  appear  above  the  line  of  our  political  horizon.  And  this 
is  the  place  for  these  political  considerations.  Such  considerations  ad- 
dress themselves  to  the  political  power ;  and  that  political  power  is  here 
Congress  is  charged  with  the  protection  of  the  national  interests,  and 
ships,  and  troops,  and  missions  are  put  in  requisition  for  that  purpose. 
A  readier,  a  cheaper,  a  more  effectual  mode  of  protection  to  that  com- 
merce which  belongs  to  the  Pacific  —  which  comes  from  California  — 
would  be  to  make  this  road  through  our  own  territory  —  placing  it  be- 
yond the  reach  of  foreign  depredation,  and,  at  the  same  time,  making  it 
a  means  of  keeping  the  Indians  themselves  in  order. 

Pliny  the  elder,  accounting  for  the  commercial  prosperity  of  some  an- 
cient cities,  attributed  it  to  their  form  of  government,  (republican,)  and 
because  that  form  admitted  the  greatest  freedom  of  enterprise.  The 
moderns  have  seen  the  truth  of  this  profound  remark  in  later  times  — 
have  seen  it  in  Italy,  in  Holland,  and  in  vai'ious  parts  of  our  America. 
We  are  a  republic,  and  a  great  one  ;  and  our  fathers  have  given  proof  of 
the  truth  of  Pliny's  axiom  in  the  success  and  extent  of  their  commercial 
undertakings.  Their  sons  have  not  degenerated.  The  maxim  of  Pliny 
is  not  disparaged.  The  numerous  Mercantile  Library  Associations  which 
cover  our  country  —  their  ample  list  of  members  and  well-filled  libraries, 
and  laudable  spirit  of  improvement  —  give  earnest  of  future  eminence, 
and  of  useful  and  honorable  careers,  rivalling  their  fathers,  and  justify- 
ing the  axiom  of  Pliny.  They  will  not  let  the  road  flag ;  they  will  not 
lose  the  East  India  trade.  All  they  want  is  information  about  the  road, 

.  •      33* 


390        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

and  I  have  endeavored  to  give  it.  I  have  brought  the  facts,  carefully  as- 
sured, to  show  that  there  is  a  good  way  for  a  good  road,  and  a  good 
country  to  sustain  people  to  protect  and  support  it  —  and  law  and  gov- 
ernment to  guard  it  —  and  settlements  nearly  all  the  way  already  begun, 
and  to  multiply  with  magic  rapidity.  Then  let  us  begin  —  take  the  first 
step,  which  is  always  the  most  difficult.  My  plan  is,  to  get  this  substi- 
tute bill  passed,  which  Congress  may  pass  without  constitutional  scruple, 
confined  as  it  is  to  territorial  domain,  giving  to  the  citizens  whose  names 
it  contains,  their  successors,  associates,  and  assigns,  a  right  of  way  in  om; 
mile  wide  through  the  public  lands  in  Kanzas  and  Utah,  on  each  side  of 
the  road,  and  a  year's  delay  to  obtain  that  practical  information  which 
business  men  must  always  have  before  they  undertake  any- great  enter- 
prise —  building  the  road  at  their  own  expense,  and  without  other  aid 
from  the  federal  government  than  that  of  its  custom,  paying  for  its  ac- 
commodation by  an  arrangement  not  yet  matured.  I  repeat,  I  am  will- 
ing to  vote  the  same  privilege  to  any 'other  company,  but  have  no  idea 
of  squandering  the  public  lands  upon  speculators,  either  to  make  a  bub- 
ble stock  upon  the  exchange  of  New  York  and  London,  or  to  build  a 
private  road  for  themselves  at  the  national  expense,  and  then  tax  the 
nation  for  travelling  upon  it. 

I  do  not  expatiate  upon  the  home  advantages  of  a  railway  to  the  Pa- 
cific ;  it  has  become  a  necessity,  the  urgency  of  which  is  universally 
admitted.  I  enforce  another  advantage,  not  so  immediate,  but  obvious 
to  the  thinking  mind,  and  important  to  America,  Europe,  and  Asia ;  and 
which,  in  changing  a  channel  of  rich  commerce,  may  have  its  effect  upon 
the  wealth  and  power  of  nations,  and  operate  a  change  in  the  maritime 
branch  of  national  wars  :  I  allude  to  the  East  India  trade,  (already  inci- 
dentally touched  upon,)  and  the  change  of  its  channel  from  the  water  to 
the  land ;  and  the  effect  of  that  change  in  nullifying  the  maritime  suprem- 
acy of  naval  powers  by  making  continents,  instead  of  oceans,  the  great 
theatres  of  international  commerce.  No  events  in  the  history  of  nations 
have  had  a  greater  effect  on  the  relative  wealth  and  power  of  nations, 
than  the  changes  which  have  been  going  on  for  near  3000  years  in  the 
channels  of  Asiatic  commerce.  During  that  time  nations  have  risen  and 
fallen,  as  they  possessed  or  lost  that  commerce.  Events  announce  the 
forthcoming  of  a  new  change.  The  land  becoming  a  facility  and  the 
ocean  an  obstacle  to  foreign  trade,  must  have  an  effect  upon  Europe  con- 
terminous upon  Asia,  and  upon  America  separated  from  it  by  a  western 
sea  over  which  no  European  power  can  dominate.  I  confine  myself  to 
the  American  branch  of  the  question,  and  glance  at  the  past  to  get  an 
insight  into  the  future.  I  look  to  former  channels  of  this  Asiatic  com- 
merce —  their  changes  —  the  effects  of  the  changes  —  and  infer  from 
what  has  been,  what  may  be  —  from  what  is,  to  what  will  be. 

I.  The  Phcenician  Route.  —  Tyre,  queen  of  cities,  was  its  first  empori- 
um. The  commerce  of  the  East  centred  there  before  the  captivity  of 
the  Jews  in  Babylon,  upwards  of  600  years  before  the  coming  of  Christ. 
Nebuchadnezzar,  King  of  Babylon,  conquered  Tyre  and  razed  it  to  its 
foundations  :  but  he  was  no  statesman  —  merely  a  destroyer  —  and  did 
not  found  a  rival  city ;  and  the  continuance  of  the  India  "trade  quickly 
restored  the  queen  of  cities  to  all  her  former  degrees  of  preeminence  and 
power.  Alexander  the  Great  conquered  her  again.  He  was  a  statesman, 
and  knew  how  to  build  up,  as  well  as  how  to  pull  down,  and  looked  to 


THE  GREAT  WEST.  391 


commerce  for  exalting  and  enriching  that  magnificent  empire  which  his 
war  genius  was  conquering.  He  founded  a  rival  city  on  the  coast  of 
Egypt,  better  adapted  to  the  trade  ;  and  the  prophecy  of  Ezekiel  became 
fulfilled  on  Tyre  !  She  became  a  place  for  fishermen  to  dry  their*  nets. 

II.  The  Jewish  Route.  —  In  the  time  of  Solomon  and  David,  the  Jews 
succeeded  to  the  East  India  trade,  made  it  a  leading  subject  of  their  pol- 
icy, and  became  rich  and  powerful  upon  it.    Jerusalem  rivalled  Nineveh 
and  Babylon ;  and  Palmyra,  a  mere  thoroughfare  in  their  trade,  in  the 
midst  of  a  desert,  became  the  seat  of  power  and  opulence,  of  Oriental 
magnificence,  and  the  centre  of  the  arts  and  sciences.   The  Jews  lost  that 
trade,  and  Jerusalem  became  as  a  widow  in  the  wilderness,  and  Palmyra 
a  den  for  foxes  and  Arabs. 

III.  The  Alexandrian  Route.  —  This  was  opened  by  Alexander  the 
Great  —  its  course  along  the  canal  of  Alexandria  to  the  Nile  —  up  that 
river  to  Coptus  —  thence  across  the  desert  with  camels  to  the  Red  Sea  — 
and  down  that  sea  to  the  neighboring  coasts  of  Asia  and  Africa  —  a 
route  chosen  with  so  much  judgment  that  it  made  Alexandria  and  Egypt 
the  seats  of  wealth,  power,  learning,  the  arts  and  sciences ;  and  continued 
to  be  the  channel  of  trade  for  a  period  of  1800  years  —  from  300  years 
before  Christ  to  the  close  of  the  fifteenth  century  —  when  the  Portuguese 
discovery  of  the  passage  by  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  annihilated  the 
Egyptian  route,  and  transferred  to  Lisbon  the  glories  of  Alexandria. 
But  not  without  a  great  contest.     Solyman  the  Magnificent,  then  Sultan 
of  the  Turkish  empire,  fought  the  Portuguese  for  the  dominion  of  routes 

—  carried  on  long  and  bloody  wars  to  break  up  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope 
route,  assisted  by  the  Venetians,  because  of  their  interest  in  the  Egyptian 
route,  and  menacing  Christendom  (this  alliance  of  Christian  and  Sara- 
cen against  Christians,  according  to  the  Abbe  Raynal,  indorsed  by  the 
philosophic  historian  Robertson)  with  the  "  most  illiberal  and  humiliat- 
ing servitude  that  ever  oppressed  polished  nations."    From  this  calamity 
Christendom  was  saved  by  the  valor  of  the  Portuguese,  and  the  talents 
of  their  renowned  commander,  Albuquerque  ;  but  the  contest  shows  the 
value  which  all  nations  placed  on  the  possession  of  this  trade ;   and  the 
reversed  conditions  of  Alexandria  and  Lisbon  —  of  Egypt  and  Portugal 

—  upon  the  defeat  of  the  Turks  and  Venetians,  shows  that  that  value 
was  not  over-estimated. 

IV.  The  Constantinopolitan  Route.  —  This  became  fully  established  in 
the  time  of  the  Greek  empire,  and  during  the  200  years  of  the  Crusade 
irruptions  ;   and  to  which  the  enlightened  part  of  the  Crusaders  greatly 
contributed.    For,  while  a  religious  frenzy  operated  upon  the  masses,  the 
extension  of  their  trade  with  India  was  the  systematic,  persevering,  and 
successful  policy  of  all  liberal  and  enlightened  minds,  availing  themselves 
of  that  frenzy  to  promote  and  establish  the  commerce  upon  the  posses- 
sion of  which  the  supremacy  of  nations  depended.    It  was  fully  estab- 
lished ;   and  the  long  and  tedious  transit  across  the  Black  Sea  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Phases,  up  that  river  to  a  portage  of  five  days  to  the  Cyrus, 
down  that  river  to  the  Caspian  Sea,  across  it  to  the  mouth  of  the  Oxus, 
up  it  900  miles  to  Samarcand,  (once  Alexandria,)  the  limit  of  Alexander's 
march  to  the  north-east ;  and  after  this  long  travel,  an  overland  journey 
of  90  days  on  the  Bactrian  camel,  to  the  confines  of  China,  commenced. 
Such  was  this  extended  route.    Yet  it  was  upon  this  route,  so  extended 
and  perilous,  that  Europe  was  supplied  with  East  India  goods  for  several 


392        THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR 

centuries  —  the  profits  of  the  trade  being  so  great  that  after  its  arrival  at 
Constantinople,  it  could  still  come  on  to  Italy,  and  even  round  to  Bruges 
( Brussels)  and  to  Antwerp.  It  was  upon  this  route  that  the  Genoese 
established  their  great  commerce,  gaining  permanent  establishments,  with 
great  privileges,  at  Constantinople,  (its  suburb  Pera,)  and  in  that  Crimea, 
then  resplendent  with  wealth,  since  impoverished,  now  the  scene  of 
bloody  strife ;  and  of  which  the  issue  would  be  fortunate,  if  it  restored 
the  Crimea  to  what  it  was  when  Caffa  was  as  celebrated  as  Sebastopol  is 
now,  and  celebrated  for  streams  of  commerce  instead  of  streams  of  blood. 
But  to  this  route  of  Constantinople  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  passage  be- 
came as  fatal  as  it  was  to  that  of  Alexandria. 

V.  The  Ocean  Route.  —  It  has  been  the  line  of  the  East  India  trade 
since  the  close  of  the  fifteenth  century,  and  must  have  continued  to  be  so 
forever,  if  a  marvel  had  not  been  wrought,  and  the  land  become  the  facil- 
ity —  the  ocean  the  obstacle  —  to  commerce.  All  the  powers  that  have 
land  for  distant  communications  must  now  betake  themselves  to  the 
steam  car.  Why  contend  with  ships  for  the  dominion  of  the  sea,  when 
both  the  ships  and  the  sea  are  to  be  superseded  ?  Take  the  case  of  Rus- 
sia. She  has  been  150  years  building  up  a  navy  —  to  become  useless  the 
first  day  it  was  wanted.  Not  only  useless,  but  an  encumbrance  and  a 
burden  —  requiring  impregnable  forts,  and  vast  armies,  and  murderous 
battles  to  protect  and  to  save  it  —  save  it  from  going  to  swell  the  enemy's 
fleet,  and  be  turned  against  its  builders.  Why  build  any  more  ships 
when  there  is  the  land  to  carry  commerce,  without  protection,  to  every 
part  of  Europe,  and  to  Asia,  and  to  America,  (by  Behring's  Straits,)  ren- 
dering fleets  inoperative  and  harmless  ?  But  I  confine  myself  to  our  own 
commerce  and  our  own  land.  There  is  the  road  to  India,  (pointing 
west,)  half  the  way  upon  our  own  land,  and  the  rest  on  a  peaceable  sea, 
washing  our  shore's,  but  separated  from  Europe  by  the  whole  diameter 
of  the  earth.  Can  we  not  cease  wrangling  over  an  odious  subject  of 
domestic  contention,  and  go  to  work  upon  the  road  which  is  to  exalt  us 
to  the  highest  rank  among  nations,  and  make  us  mistress  of  the  richest 
gem  in  the  diadem  of  commerce  ?  Can  we  not  cease  contention,  and 
seize  the  supreme  prize  which  lies  grtttering  before  us  ?  Make  the  road ! ' 
and  in  its  making,  make  our  America  the  thoroughfare  of  Oriental  com- 
merce —  throw  back  the  Cape  and  the  Horn  routes  to  what  Tyre  became 
when  Alexandria  was  founded,  arid  what  Alexandria  became  when  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope  was  doubled  —  making  Europe  submissive  and 
tributary  to  us  for  a  transit  upon  our  route,  and  dispensing  us  from  the 
maintenance  of  the  fleets  which  the  ocean  commerce  demands  for  its 
protection  ? 

Pass  the  substitute  which  I  propose,  and  you  have  the  opinion  of  men 
whose  names  are  in  it,  and  whose  opinions  are  worth  attention,  that 
these  great  and  glorious  consequences  will  ensue. 


THE  GREAT   WEST.  393 

ROUTES  TO  THE  WEST 

FOR  THE  EMIGRANT  AND  THE  TOURIST. 

GREAT  WESTERN  RAILROAD  ROUTE. 

AMONG  the  different  routes  from  Boston  to  the  Western  States,  the 
shortest,  most  direct,  and  popular  railroad  route  is  via  Worcester,  Spring- 
field, Albany,  and  Rochester.  At  Rochester  is  a  diverging  point,  one 
going  via  Buffalo  and  along  the  southern  shore  of  Lake  Erie  to  Cleveland, 
where  there  are  numerous  railroads  running  into  the  interior  of  the  States 
of  Ohio  and  Indiana.  Also,  a  route  extending  on  from  Cleveland  to 
Toledo,  and  thence  over  the  Michigan,  Southern,  and  Northern  Indiana 
Railroads  to  Chicago,  where  it  connects  with  the  different  railroads  run- 
ning into  Illinois  and  Iowa.  The  other  route  goes  from  Rochester  to 
Suspension  Bridge,  and  thence  by  the  Great  Western  Railway  to  Detroit, 
thence  via  the  Michigan  Central  Railroad  to  Chicago,  where  it  connects 
with  railroads  running  to  Galena,  Dubuque,  Rock  Island,  Burlington, 
Peoria,  Springfield,  and  St.  Louis. 

There  is  but  little  difference  in  these  two  routes  in  point  of  time, 
although  the  one  via  Suspension  Bridge  and  Detroit  is  a  few  miles  the 
shortest.  The  price  of  tickets  to  Chicago,  and  points  west  of  Chicago, 
are  the  same  by  either  route. 

Table  of  Distances  from  Boston  to  the  various  Points  in  the  Great  West, 
via  Worcester,  and  Western,  and  New  York  Central  Railroads. 

MILES.     MILES 

Distance  from  Boston  to  Albany, 200 

Albany  to  Buffalo 300  500 

Buffalo  to  Cleveland 180  680 

Cleveland  to  Toledo, 112  792 

Toledo  to  Chicago, 243  1035 

V  ia  Worcester,  and  Western,  and  New  York  Central  Railroad. 

Distance  from  Boston  to  Albany, . .' 200 

Albany  to  Niagara  Falls 300       500 

Niagara  Falls  to  Detroit, 229       729 

Detroit  to  Chicago, „ 282     1011 

Chicago  to  St.  Louis, 260 

"          Burlington, ,...   210 

Rocklsland, 182 

"          Fulton  City, 136 

«          Galena, 171 

«          Milwaukie, 85 

Distance  from  Boston  to  Cleveland, 680 

Cleveland  to  Cincinnati  via  Columbus, ....   255  935 

«                «            via  Dayton, 273  953 

"          Indianapolis, 280  960 

"          Terre  Haute, 353  1033 

«          St.  Louis  via  Indianapolis, 558  1238 


394 


Table  showing  the  comparative  Distance  from  Boston  to  Buffalo  be- 
twq^n  the  different  Routes. 

From  Boston  to  Buffalo  via  War.,  and  Western,  and  N.  Y.  C.  RR.  500 

"  «  "   Fitchburg  and  Rutland, 568 

"  "  "   New  York  and  N.  Y.  &  Erie  RR. ...   654 

Thus  it  will  be  seen  that  the  route  via  Worcester,  and  Western,  and 
New  York  Central  Railroads  is  sixty- eight  miles  shorter  than  that  via 
Fitchburg  and  Rutland,  and  one  hundred  and  fifty-four  miles  shorter 
than  via  New  York  City. 

By  the  Worcester  and  Western  route,  baggage  is  checked  through  from 
Boston  to  Buffalo  or  Suspension  Bridge,  thus  saving  the  passenger  trouble 
and  expense,  and  is  not  checked  through  to  those  points  by  any  other 
route. 

The  running  time  is  so  arranged  as  to  form  a  continuous  line,  and  the 
usual  time  from  Boston  to  Chicago  is  forty-eight  hours ;  from  Boston  to 
Cincinnati  thirty-six  hours. 

This  is  the  only  line  in  Boston  via  Worcester  and  Western  Railroad 
where  passengers  can  have  their  choice  of  all  the  lines  west  of  Albany 
and  Buffalo.  Through  tickets  for  sale  at  19  State  Street,  or  Ticket 
Office  Boston  and  Worcester  Railroad,  Albany  Street. 

FAKES.  1ST  CLASS.    EMIGRANT. 

To  St.  Louis,  Mo $29.50 $13.00 

To  Milwaukie,  Wis 26.40 13.77 

To  Chicago,  111 24.00 12.00 

To  Cincinnati,  O 20.50 11.00 

These  rates  are  subject  to  changes.  We  give  them  merely  to  present 
some  idea  of  the  expense. 

ROUTE  TO  THE  WEST  VIA  FITCHBURG,  CHESHIRE,  RUT- 
LAND AND  BURLINGTON  RAILROADS. 

From  Boston  to  Fitchburg  via  Fitchburg  Railroad,  from  Fitchburg  to 
Bellows  Falls  via  Cheshire  Railroad,  from  Bellows  Falls  to  Rutland  via 
Rutland  and  Burlington  Railroad,  thence  to  connect  with  New  York 
Central  Railroad  from  Rutland  to  Schenectady  via  Saratoga,  or  to  Troy, 
New  York,  via  North  Bennington,  or  to  Albany  via  Eagle  Bridge,  and 
from  Schenectady,  Troy,  or  Albany,  west,  via  New  York  Central  Rail- 
road, or  from  Bellows  Falls  to  Burlington  via  Rutland  and  Burlington  or 
Vermont  Central  Railroad,  thence  to  Ogdensburg  and  west.  The  prices 
of  tickets  west,  as  well  as  freight,  are  as  low  as  by  any  other  route.  The 
present  prices  to  Albany  are,  for  freight,  1st  class  35c.,  2d  class  30c.,  and 
3d  class  25c.  per  100  pounds  ;  and  for  tickets,  1st  class  $5.00,  emigrant 
$3.00.  The  prices  west  are  subject  to  changes  by  various  routes,  classes, 
&c.,  and  cannot  be  given  for  any  definite  period. 

The  price  of  tickets  from  Albany  to  Suspension  Bridge  or  Buffalo  is, 
1st  class  $6.00,  emigrant  $3.00. 

ROUTE  FROM  NEW  YORK  TO  ST.  LOUIS. 
From  New  York  via  the  Hudson  River  Railroad  to  Albany,  Central 


THE  GREAT   WEST.  395 


Southern  Michigan,  by  steamboat,  and  Chicago  and  Mississippi  Railroad. 
Fare  to  St.  Louis,  $26.  Whole  distance,  1693  miles. 

From  New  York  via  the  Hudson  River  Railroad,  Michigan  Central 
Railroad,  and  steamboat,  and  Chicago  and  Mississippi  Railroad.  Fare  to 
St.  Louis,  $26.  Whole  distance,  1760  miles. 

From  New  York  via  the  Hudson  River  steamboats,  New  York  Central 
Railroad,  Great  Western  Railroad,  Michigan  Central  Railroad,  and  Chi- 
cago and  Mississippi  Railroad.  Fare  to  St.  Louis,  $28.  Whole  distance, 
1736  miles. 

The  several  railroad  lines  from  New  England  and  New  York  pass  chil- 
dren under  five  years  of  age  free,  and  charge  half  price  for  those  from 
five  to  twelve  years  old.  On  steamers,  those  under  four  years  go  free. 
Each  grown  person  is  allowed  to  carry  baggage  free  not  exceeding  one 
hundred  pounds. 

The  novice  who  travels  on  western  steamboats  should  know  that  it 
is  the  custom  to  include  the  right  to  boarding  and  state  room  in  the  charge 
for  passage ;  and  from  the  time  the  name  is  registered  and  fare  paid, 
though  the  boat  should  be  detained  at  the  levee  several  days,  the  passen- 
ger is  entitled  to  meals  and  lodging.  The  frequency  of  bell-ringing,  and 
uncertainty  as  to  the  hour  of  starting,  render  it  judicious  to  live  on  board. 
The  conveniences  are  as  many,  and  table  as  good,  as  may  be  found  in  an 
ordinary  hotel. 

ROUTES  FROM  THE  PRINCIPAL  PLACES  IN  NORTHERN 
NEW  ENGLAND  TO  THE  WEST. 

For  the  convenience  of  our  friends  in  Maine,  New  Hampshire,  and 
Vermont,  who  are  not  conversant  with  their  railroad  facilities,  we  have 
carefully  compiled  the  following  tables,  showing  the  different  routes  from 
the  largest  towns  in  their  respective  states. 

Persons  residing  in  Massachusetts,  Rhode  Island,  and  Connecticut  will 
readily  perceive  that  we  have  already  given  all  the  necessary  information, 
for  those  desiring  to  emigrate  from  their  states,  on  the  preceding  pages. 

Portland,  Me.  —  By  railroad  or  boat  to  Boston,  and  thence  by  various 
routes,  or  by  cars,  to  Montreal  and  Brockville,  C.  W.,  and  thence  by 
steamboats  to  Toronto  or  Lewiston.  In  the  fall  a  line  of  railroad  will  be 
opened  from  Brockville  to  Toronto,  forming  a  direct  route  from  Portland 
to  Chicago,  &c.  From  Toronto  via  Collingwood  by  cars,  and  thence  by 
steamer  to  all  ports  on  Lake  Michigan ;  or  by  way  of  Detroit  by  railroad. 

Portsmouth,  N.  II.  —  By  cars  to  Boston,  or  by  railroad  through  Con- 
cord, N.  H.,  to  Ogdensburgh,  N.  Y.,  and  thence  by  boats  to  Toronto  or 
Lewiston,  and  thence  by  routes  from  Suspension  Bridge  or  Buffalo. 

Nashua,  N.  H.  —  Via  Worcester  and  Albany ;  via  Groton  Junction 
and  Rutland  to  Albany ;  or  via  Concord  and  Ogdensburgh. 

Concord,  N.  H.  —  By  cars  to  Ogdensburgh,  N.  Y.,  and  thence  by 
steamboat  to  Toronto  or  Lewiston ;  via  Nashua,  and  Worcester,  and  Al- 
bany ;  or  via  Nashua,  Groton  Junction,  and  Rutland,  and  Schenectady  ; 
or  via  Boston. 

St.  Johnsbury,  Vt.  —  Via  White  River  Junction  and  Ogdensburgh  ;  or 
via  Bellows  Falls,  and  Rutland,  and  Albany;  or  via  Springfield  and 
Albany. 

Littleton,  N.  H.  —  Via  Wells  River,  and  same  as  St.  Johnsbury. 


396  THE  GREAT  WEST. 


Plymouth,  N.  H.  —  Via  Concord.     (See  Concord.) 

Burlington,  Vt.  —  Via  Ogdensburgh  or  by  steamboat  to  Whitehall,  and 
thence  by  cars  to  Albany  or  Troy ;  or  by  railroad  to  Rutland  and  Troy, 
or  Albany. 

Northfield,  Vt.  —  To  Ogdensburgh,  or  via  Burlington. 

Waterbury  and  Montpelier.  —  The  same  as  Burlington. 

PASSENGER  AND  EXPRESS  ROUTE  FOR  CALIFORNIA. 

There  are,  it  is  well  known  to  the  public,  two  passenger  and  express 
routes  from  the  Atlantic  States  to  California:  one,  the  old  established 
mail  route  via  the  Isthmus  of  Panama,  called  the  "  United  States  and 
Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Company,"  the  other  the  "Nicaragua  Steamship 
and  Accessory  Transit  Company,"  via  the  Isthmus  of  Nicaragua.  Tlus 
last  is  somewhat  the  shortest  route,  but  owing  to  the  unsettled  state  of 
the  country  through  which  it  passes  in  crossing  from  ocean  to  ocean,  it 
cannot  be  depended  upon  as  a  safe  or  speedy  means  of  transit  at  the 
present  time.  The  route  via  Panama,  on  the  contrary,  may  be  counted 
on  with  certainty  as  being  always  safe,  speedy,  and  reliable ;  and  the  pas- 
senger or  family  securing  ticket  by  this  line  can  reckon  the  time  within  a 
few  hours  that  will  land  him  at  his  place  of  destination. 

No  greater  evidence  of  the  reliability  of  this  line  need  be  adduced  than 
the  fact  that  the  welL-known  express  of  Adams  &  Co.',  from  the  time  of 
the  gold  discovery  in  California  until  their  withdrawal  from  the  California 
business,  has  always  been  transported  by  the  United  States  and  Pacific 
Mail  Line  via  Panama  route,  and  that  their  successors  to  the  California 
Express,  Messrs.  Freeman  <Sf  Co.,  still  continue  to  send  the  bulk  of  their 
express  freight,  gold  dust,  and  valuable  packages  by  that  same  route. 

The  steamers  of  the  United  States  Mail  Steamship  Company  leave 
New  York  regularly  on  the  5th  and  20th  of  every  month  (except  when 
those  dates  fall  on  Simday,  when  they  leave  the  day  following)  for  Aspin- 
wall,  Navy  Bay,  direct,  and  perform  the  trip  in  about  8£  days,  distance 
2000  miles.  As  soon  as  the  passengers,  baggage,  mails,  and  express 
matter  can  be  landed,  they  are  received  by  the  new  and  comfortable  cars 
of  the  Panama  Railroad  Company,  and  after  a  pleasant  ride  of  5  or  6 
hours  across  the  Isthmus,  the  old  Spanish  city  of  Panama  is  reached,  and 
passengers,  baggage,  mails,  express,  &c.,  are  at  once  transferred  to  the  new 
iron  barges  of  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Company,  and  in  a  few  minutes 
are  safely  embarked  on  board  one  of  their  splendid  floating  palaces  lying 
always  ready  in  the  harbor,  and  are  steaming  away  up  the  coast  of  the 
beautiful  Pacific  towards  San  Francisco,  (a  distance  of  some  4000  miles,) 
where  they  arrive  in  about  13  days,  generally  refreshed  and  improved  by 
the  voyage.  The  price  of  passage  by  this  line  is  as  follows,  viz.  :  — 

Deck  State  Room  Berths, $300 

Upper  Saloon  "     275 

Lower  Saloon  "     225 

Second  Cabin  «     175 

Upper  Steerage  " 125 

Lower  Steerage  "     100 

Tickets  for  sale  at  59  "Broadway,  New  York,  and  84  Washington  Street, 
Boston. 


h 


UNIVERSITY  OF  ILLINOIS-URBANA 


THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD,  OR,  THE  GREAT  W 


